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Edible
Pancake: A Global History
Round, thin, and made of starchy batter cooked on a flat surface, it is a food that goes by many flapjack, crêpe, and okonomiyaki, to name just a few. The pancake is a treasured food the world over, and now Ken Albala unearths the surprisingly rich history of pancakes and their sizzling goodness.
Pancake traverses over centuries and civilizations to examine the culinary and cultural importance of pancakes in human history. From the Russian blini to the Ethiopian injera , Albala reveals how pancakes have been a perennial source of sustenance from Greek and Roman eras to the Middle Ages through to the present day. He explores how the pancake has gained symbolic currency in diverse societies as a comfort food, a portable victual for travelers, a celebratory dish, and a breakfast meal. The book also features a number of historic and modern recipes—tracing the first official pancake recipe to a sixteenth-century Dutch cook—and is accompanied by a rich selection of illustrations.
Pancake is a witty and erudite history of a well-known favorite and will ensure that the pancake will never be flattened under the shadow of better known foods.
Pancake traverses over centuries and civilizations to examine the culinary and cultural importance of pancakes in human history. From the Russian blini to the Ethiopian injera , Albala reveals how pancakes have been a perennial source of sustenance from Greek and Roman eras to the Middle Ages through to the present day. He explores how the pancake has gained symbolic currency in diverse societies as a comfort food, a portable victual for travelers, a celebratory dish, and a breakfast meal. The book also features a number of historic and modern recipes—tracing the first official pancake recipe to a sixteenth-century Dutch cook—and is accompanied by a rich selection of illustrations.
Pancake is a witty and erudite history of a well-known favorite and will ensure that the pancake will never be flattened under the shadow of better known foods.
128 pages, Hardcover
First published October 15, 2008
8 people are currently reading
303 people want to read
About the author
Ken Albala
47 books149 followersKen Albala, Professor of History at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, CA and Director of Food Studies in San Francisco, is the author or editor of 25 books on food. These include academic monographs, cookbooks, reference works and translations. He is also series editor of Rowman and Littlefield Studies in Food and Gastronomy. His current project is about Walking with Wine.
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Displaying 1 - 23 of 23 reviews
January 22, 2023
From crepes to stacked pancakes, from blinis to injera to okonimyaki… the world loves pancakes. In Pancake: A Global History, Ken Albala sets about examining pancakes. He begins with a definition of what a pancake is, and therefore what foods from across the world qualify as one (and, conversely, what don’t). He then goes on to provide a history of pancakes (mostly centred round Europe and North America), before looking at pancakes in different avatars: as comfort food, as street food, as fancy food and more. There are recipes, reproductions of paintings, interesting anecdotes, and more.
This is a compact, absorbing introduction to pancakes, and Albala does a good job of showcasing the wide array of pancakes that are loved throughout the world. Some of these (dosas are a case in point) are only encountered as a fleeting mention, but still: at least this ‘global history’ is rather more global than some of the other books in this series. And some of the bits of trivia here are delightful: I had no idea, for instance, that Doraemon’s favourite food is a pancake, or of the many conflicting stories about how crepes Suzette came to be.
Mouth-watering, interesting read. Even though I did come across an error (the Korean hotteok, or hodduk, as Albala refers to it, does not really fit Albala’s definition of a pancake, because it’s made with a dough rather than a batter), that didn’t really bother me. I liked this book enough to want to make several of the pancakes for which he provides recipes. And I made a bunch of pancakes - cheelas, oat uttappams, oat and wholewheat spiced pancakes, crespelle, hobak buchim - over the days I was savouring this book.
This is a compact, absorbing introduction to pancakes, and Albala does a good job of showcasing the wide array of pancakes that are loved throughout the world. Some of these (dosas are a case in point) are only encountered as a fleeting mention, but still: at least this ‘global history’ is rather more global than some of the other books in this series. And some of the bits of trivia here are delightful: I had no idea, for instance, that Doraemon’s favourite food is a pancake, or of the many conflicting stories about how crepes Suzette came to be.
Mouth-watering, interesting read. Even though I did come across an error (the Korean hotteok, or hodduk, as Albala refers to it, does not really fit Albala’s definition of a pancake, because it’s made with a dough rather than a batter), that didn’t really bother me. I liked this book enough to want to make several of the pancakes for which he provides recipes. And I made a bunch of pancakes - cheelas, oat uttappams, oat and wholewheat spiced pancakes, crespelle, hobak buchim - over the days I was savouring this book.
February 17, 2014
Pancakes may quite possibly be the quintessential American breakfast food. However, these ‘cakes’ are not reserved for the United States and form a family of both sweet and savory versions world-wide. Reaktion Books adds to their ‘Edible Series’ by exploring pancakes and crepes in, “Pancake: A Global History” by Ken Albala.
“Pancake” is organized into a somewhat more coordinated and unique format than some of the other ‘Edible Series’ books by beginning with an introduction into what pancakes are and their evolution followed by the various roles the food holds: comfort food, celebration, street food, working-class food, and fine dining. Initially, the beginning of “Pancake” is off-putting as Albala’s writing is cluttered, choppy, and doesn’t seem to follow a clear strand. Albala does incorporate some humor into the text which induces smiles but this alone can not necessarily save “Pancake” for some readers.
Don’t give up on “Pancake” though, as the book becomes notably smoother and more compelling as Albala focuses on ‘fun’ topics in the cultural and social history of panned cakes. The reader will certainly learn various factoids about Aunt Jemima, IHOP, and the various styles of pancakes world-wide. Although “Pancake” is more of a blog-like overview of pancakes versus a comprehensive research piece; Albala still fits a large helping of information onto one plate (I had to do it!).
On a related note, don’t expect a heavily notated scholarly work with “Pancake”. Although Albala clearly did his research and includes a bibliography; facts are not sourced or elaborated. Plus, some mistakes occur such as when describing Hungarian palacsintas (basically Hungarian crepes). I am Hungarian and caught the errors relating to both the text and photo of a food I was raised on which questions the validity of the other areas.
The conclusion of “Pancake” is rushed, abrupt, and doesn’t capture the book resulting in an unmemorable ending. Although “Pancake” is a ‘fun’ read, this dampers the entire book (compare it to a poor ending of a film).
Like the other ‘Edible Series’ books, “Pancake” includes an appendix of recipes, a list of pancake-related websites, and several glossy illustrations/photos through the text (some are, in fact, author photos). On a positive note, the recipes in the ‘Edible Series’ tend to not be recipes which can truly be followed but that isn’t the case in “Pancake” as they are much more thorough.
Overall, “Pancake” is a ‘cute’ and fast read (only takes a couple hours, max) for those readers interested in an overview of pancakes. If nothing else, one will learn a few fun facts and have the doors opened for further research. Although not the best installment in the ‘Edible Series’; “Pancake” is also not the worst and is recommended for pancake fans searching for a light food-topic read.
“Pancake” is organized into a somewhat more coordinated and unique format than some of the other ‘Edible Series’ books by beginning with an introduction into what pancakes are and their evolution followed by the various roles the food holds: comfort food, celebration, street food, working-class food, and fine dining. Initially, the beginning of “Pancake” is off-putting as Albala’s writing is cluttered, choppy, and doesn’t seem to follow a clear strand. Albala does incorporate some humor into the text which induces smiles but this alone can not necessarily save “Pancake” for some readers.
Don’t give up on “Pancake” though, as the book becomes notably smoother and more compelling as Albala focuses on ‘fun’ topics in the cultural and social history of panned cakes. The reader will certainly learn various factoids about Aunt Jemima, IHOP, and the various styles of pancakes world-wide. Although “Pancake” is more of a blog-like overview of pancakes versus a comprehensive research piece; Albala still fits a large helping of information onto one plate (I had to do it!).
On a related note, don’t expect a heavily notated scholarly work with “Pancake”. Although Albala clearly did his research and includes a bibliography; facts are not sourced or elaborated. Plus, some mistakes occur such as when describing Hungarian palacsintas (basically Hungarian crepes). I am Hungarian and caught the errors relating to both the text and photo of a food I was raised on which questions the validity of the other areas.
The conclusion of “Pancake” is rushed, abrupt, and doesn’t capture the book resulting in an unmemorable ending. Although “Pancake” is a ‘fun’ read, this dampers the entire book (compare it to a poor ending of a film).
Like the other ‘Edible Series’ books, “Pancake” includes an appendix of recipes, a list of pancake-related websites, and several glossy illustrations/photos through the text (some are, in fact, author photos). On a positive note, the recipes in the ‘Edible Series’ tend to not be recipes which can truly be followed but that isn’t the case in “Pancake” as they are much more thorough.
Overall, “Pancake” is a ‘cute’ and fast read (only takes a couple hours, max) for those readers interested in an overview of pancakes. If nothing else, one will learn a few fun facts and have the doors opened for further research. Although not the best installment in the ‘Edible Series’; “Pancake” is also not the worst and is recommended for pancake fans searching for a light food-topic read.
November 11, 2008
Little, eccentric book. But I enjoyed it.
August 26, 2022
This book picked up - I can't lie, I wasn't expecting it to spend the first nineteen (19) pages defining a pancake and then about half the book describing different pancake recipes. I was expecting a lot more about the social implications and different types of cultural pancake. When the book started doing this 50 pages in, it was really informative and interesting! But it was so dry getting to that point (as were the constant citations of random Western recipe books from a few centuries ago.) I did love the recipes at the end though and want to try them, I just wish they were *only* at the end rather than mid chapter.
August 13, 2023
Wow what a boring take on such a fun topic
June 14, 2022
There isn't much of a narrative thread here, and it's actually kind of hilarious that 40 of the 100 pages of this book is in the introduction. All that said, it's a pretty exhaustive listing of various ways that things that can reasonably be called pancakes have been cooked, served, and eaten, on a truly global scale. And since that's what I'm looking for in an Edible book, it at least fit the requirements.
March 22, 2009
Ken Albala does an excellent job of presenting information about the consumers' relationship to this fine food. The images and intellectual humor woven within are a delight!
February 11, 2021
This is a genuinely engaging, funny, and intricate book despite everything suggesting minimalism. Between Albala's self-conscious comedy of playing a pancake scientist, talking about how "ontogeny recapitulates phylogeny or, more plainly put, the evolution of a species can be discerned in its developing embryonic state," and acknowledging the role class, race, and culture play in food, it's a niche experience that manages to keep itself relevant. That said, it's not political, which is to say it doesn't really do anything beyond acknowledge these facts, but it does what it's aiming to do perfectly and it can't really be faulted too much for that.
Otherwise, I'd defer to Orsolya's review which is a more informed and broader critique of the book. Perfectly put: "It's a 'cute' and fast read."
Otherwise, I'd defer to Orsolya's review which is a more informed and broader critique of the book. Perfectly put: "It's a 'cute' and fast read."
January 7, 2019
This was a relatively quick read.
About 40% of the book is spent on terms and taxonomy of the subject, in "Introduction: What is a Pancake?" I found it an exhaustive exercise, if a little exhausting, but still educational.
The rest of the book has shorter more engaging chapters devoted to the different ways pancakes are presented:
Comfort Food
Celebration
Street Food
Working-class Food
Fine Dining
The author includes many interesting photos and images throughout the book, a good variety of recipes and other references near the end.
Overall, I enjoyed the book. I feel the Introduction warranted its own chapters so it could be consumed in smaller bites.
Recommended to those interested in food history, cooking, and cross-cultural comparison.
About 40% of the book is spent on terms and taxonomy of the subject, in "Introduction: What is a Pancake?" I found it an exhaustive exercise, if a little exhausting, but still educational.
The rest of the book has shorter more engaging chapters devoted to the different ways pancakes are presented:
Comfort Food
Celebration
Street Food
Working-class Food
Fine Dining
The author includes many interesting photos and images throughout the book, a good variety of recipes and other references near the end.
Overall, I enjoyed the book. I feel the Introduction warranted its own chapters so it could be consumed in smaller bites.
Recommended to those interested in food history, cooking, and cross-cultural comparison.
October 30, 2020
Great quick read
Ken albala is amazing as an author and lecturer - when reading you can hear the cadence of his speech and his close and visceral connection to the food he describes. Light on recipes but deep in history I found this to be an enjoyable and good introduction to pancakes and look forward to this weekend when I can make some from scratch (another important Albala technique)
Ken albala is amazing as an author and lecturer - when reading you can hear the cadence of his speech and his close and visceral connection to the food he describes. Light on recipes but deep in history I found this to be an enjoyable and good introduction to pancakes and look forward to this weekend when I can make some from scratch (another important Albala technique)
February 8, 2022
This is a very cute little book, and I did learn a little about the history of the pancake. It's pretty insubstantial, though, and a lot of it is about what *is* or *isn't* a pancake, plus short paragraphs about foods that are similar to pancakes in cultures around the world. So don't expect to learn too much. I've enjoyed trying a couple of the very old pancake recipes though -- the 1600s recipe was surprisingly a hit with my family.
March 31, 2018
Informative and charmingly written. But really incorporates unnecessary sexism! Illustrations are sloppily edited (and include two naked or half-naked women cooking pancakes), and at least one has the wrong caption. All that, and syrup.
May 4, 2018
An interesting read for a food nerd, of course you want pancakes all the way through. There are others in the food essays series and reminds me some of the philosophy essay series on each of the 7 deadly sins.
January 24, 2023
If you like pancakes, food adventures, and history, you will like this book. I was not only reminded of how wonderful North American pancakes are (and how much I love them) I was also introduced to pancakes all over the world.
And! Recipes. So many recipes to try.
And! Recipes. So many recipes to try.
March 15, 2020
A good, entertaining overview of the humble pancake in all its myriad forms. A short, informative read.
February 23, 2022
A fun short read about a food that looks so simple, yet has so much history and cultural significance.
March 1, 2023
Always enjoy Ken Albala great way of presenting food history. I learned, I laughed, and I got hungry.
May 11, 2010
I have always made the following statement with plenty of aplomb: “One day, I am going to write a book about pancakes from all over the world.” Because, think about it. While many similar types of food manifest themselves in various forms all over the world (the Mexican tamale and the Chinese glutinous rice dumpling, the Japanese gyoza and the Polish pierogi, the Latin American empanada and the Malay curry puff), there is only one that is literally present in every continent and almost every country. And that is the pancake.
As a rule of thumb, I love anything that comes from batter. Make with buckwheat (a type of radish, not grain) and swirl it thin over a griddle and call it a Brittany crepe. Inject azuki between two halves of little round batter patties and call it Japanese dorayaki. Top it with queso blanco and jamon with sides of salsa and slaw to taste and call it Guatemalan pupusa. Drizzle sweet shredded coconut and smear coconut oil onto round, palm-sized crispy flats and call it Thai kanom krok. Or come over on a Saturday morning and I’ll make you a stack the length of Julia Child’s head – would you like that with blueberries, banana caramel, or bacon chocolate chip?
I know a lot about pancakes and I have eaten a lot of pancakes on travels, but I will never be writing a book about pancakes from all over the world. That’s because Ken Albala, a professor of history at the University of the Pacific has beaten me to the brunch... I mean, punch. He has written Pancake: A Global History and you know what? It’s OK that he’s done it first, because he’s done a finer job than I could ever hope to. It’s like every pancake elder in the world came together and issued a compendium of wisdom and philosophies associated with their fine craft. If a pancake could speak, I’d imagine it would read like this book. And be as witty and entertaining as it is – not flat at all, by any means.
Beyond the satisfying throve of much-kneaded knowledge – did you know that spaetzles, gnocchi and British ancestral puddings belong to the pancake? Gosh, what a story to tell at the bar! – Albala has created many pancake philosophies that he expounds on. Consider the following – it’s like the writer asks, “A silver dollar for your thoughts?”:
“It is not what goes into the bowl that defines the pancake, but what comes out of the pan.”
“Thus a pan does not the pancake make.”
“Waffles, despite their eminent popularity, are not pancakes.”
“And some ‘pancakes’ are so overburdened with egg that they are more like omelets tousled with flour for effect. Here we mince words, if not ingredients.”
“Is the pancake truly a cake?”
It is as if Voltaire considered crepes in all their complexity. And you know the guy is sincere about his pancakes – he even tests out medieval recipes to experience what the initial incarnations might have tasted like. That’s dedication to the dough and of an English version from 1660, Albala writes, “It is the epitome of a baroque pancake, if such a thing can be imagined, hurtling through the clouds held aloft by cherubs.”
“Pancakes taste best consumed in periods of sloth or protracted weekend mornings. They must be sacred without hurry or premeditation, ideally in dressing gown and slippers. At the kitchen table or maybe even in bed, and preferably in excess, just to the brink of nausea.”
Like a pancake itself, Albala’s book is substantially packed with important knowledge, fluffy with the humor, perfectly griddled and well-rounded. It makes you happy, brings a smile to your face – the only difference is, there’s probably not much you can top it with. It would fit very nicely and snug into your stack of favoritest books ever. You will sure be batter off after perusing this flippin’ eloquent and articulate masterpiece.
As a rule of thumb, I love anything that comes from batter. Make with buckwheat (a type of radish, not grain) and swirl it thin over a griddle and call it a Brittany crepe. Inject azuki between two halves of little round batter patties and call it Japanese dorayaki. Top it with queso blanco and jamon with sides of salsa and slaw to taste and call it Guatemalan pupusa. Drizzle sweet shredded coconut and smear coconut oil onto round, palm-sized crispy flats and call it Thai kanom krok. Or come over on a Saturday morning and I’ll make you a stack the length of Julia Child’s head – would you like that with blueberries, banana caramel, or bacon chocolate chip?
I know a lot about pancakes and I have eaten a lot of pancakes on travels, but I will never be writing a book about pancakes from all over the world. That’s because Ken Albala, a professor of history at the University of the Pacific has beaten me to the brunch... I mean, punch. He has written Pancake: A Global History and you know what? It’s OK that he’s done it first, because he’s done a finer job than I could ever hope to. It’s like every pancake elder in the world came together and issued a compendium of wisdom and philosophies associated with their fine craft. If a pancake could speak, I’d imagine it would read like this book. And be as witty and entertaining as it is – not flat at all, by any means.
Beyond the satisfying throve of much-kneaded knowledge – did you know that spaetzles, gnocchi and British ancestral puddings belong to the pancake? Gosh, what a story to tell at the bar! – Albala has created many pancake philosophies that he expounds on. Consider the following – it’s like the writer asks, “A silver dollar for your thoughts?”:
“It is not what goes into the bowl that defines the pancake, but what comes out of the pan.”
“Thus a pan does not the pancake make.”
“Waffles, despite their eminent popularity, are not pancakes.”
“And some ‘pancakes’ are so overburdened with egg that they are more like omelets tousled with flour for effect. Here we mince words, if not ingredients.”
“Is the pancake truly a cake?”
It is as if Voltaire considered crepes in all their complexity. And you know the guy is sincere about his pancakes – he even tests out medieval recipes to experience what the initial incarnations might have tasted like. That’s dedication to the dough and of an English version from 1660, Albala writes, “It is the epitome of a baroque pancake, if such a thing can be imagined, hurtling through the clouds held aloft by cherubs.”
“Pancakes taste best consumed in periods of sloth or protracted weekend mornings. They must be sacred without hurry or premeditation, ideally in dressing gown and slippers. At the kitchen table or maybe even in bed, and preferably in excess, just to the brink of nausea.”
Like a pancake itself, Albala’s book is substantially packed with important knowledge, fluffy with the humor, perfectly griddled and well-rounded. It makes you happy, brings a smile to your face – the only difference is, there’s probably not much you can top it with. It would fit very nicely and snug into your stack of favoritest books ever. You will sure be batter off after perusing this flippin’ eloquent and articulate masterpiece.
July 13, 2016
Every thing you wanted to know about pancakes but were afraid to ask plus a bit more, such as, why some panned cakes are pan cakes and some are not, where are the home countries to the world's most exotic pancakes and recipes for the common and exotic ones. The book is a short stack but a sweet one.
August 29, 2013
Surprisingly my favorite book in the series *so far*. Set up pretty much with the same structure and scope as the rest of the books I've read,the writing is much better. I will try every recipe in this book. I am really looking forward to it.
October 2, 2009
I can't get pancakes out of my head now. It seems like its been a long time since I had one...
December 2, 2009
100-page essay to publisher specifications doesn't make for the best writing, but there are some interesting recipes, especially for some of the Asian pancakes.
November 6, 2014
It's good. Worth reading.
Displaying 1 - 23 of 23 reviews