Tapping the West: How Alberta’s Craft Beer Industry Bubbled Out of an Economy Gone Flat

by Scott Messenger

The story behind Alberta's craft beer boom. An insider’s look that brings together tasting notes, social history, politics, and science. When Alberta eliminated its laws around mandatory minimum brewing capacity in 2013, the industry suddenly opened to the possibility of small-batch craft breweries. From roughly a dozen in operation before deregulation, there are now more than a hundred today, with new ones bubbling up each month. It’s an inspiring story, one that writer Scott Messenger tells in impressive scope. At a time when Alberta was still recovering from the plunge in oil prices in 2008, deregulation represented a path to economic diversification. Messenger takes readers on the road with him to investigate artifacts left behind by Alberta brewers dating to the late-1800s, to farms responsible for the province’s unrivalled malt, and into the brewhouses and backstories of some of Canada’s best new beer makers. It’s an insider’s look at history in the making. With humour, straight-talking tasting notes, and a willingness to challenge stereotypes, Messenger introduces us to key players in the industry. We meet Graham Sherman of Tool Shed Brewing, who helped spearhead the change in legislation; Greg Zeschuk, whose Belgian-inspired brewery is poised to put Alberta beer on the global map; the sisters behind Northern Girls Hopyard, Alberta’s first hop farm; and many more. Messenger winds up his narrative with a good, old-fashioned pub crawl, a fitting finale for the story of an industry that is, at its heart, about having fun with friends. Bringing together social history, politics, and science, Tapping the West is engaging and balanced―not unlike the perfect you-know-what.

Genres: Nonfiction, History

312 pages, Paperback

Published May 5, 2020

Reviews

[Steve Stred · Rating 5 out of 5]

I know, I know, this isn't a horror book or a sci-fi book or something deep and dark with gore and evisceration, but I read throughout a lot of genres and this book came to me in a special kind of way.

You see, way back in August of this year (2021), I was invited to my very first author event. I know! Exciting. It was at the best bookstore here in Edmonton, Daisy Chain Bookstore on 124th Street, and I was over the moon to be asked to participate. There were four of us there, introducing ourselves and reading from our work, and one of those authors just happened to Scott Messenger. I can't say why, maybe it was us being the two males on the panel, or the telepathic connection that we both shared the same sense of humor, but we clicked and we chatted for most of the night and have stayed connected through Instagram.

This book, typically, would never in a million years interest me based on topic. You see, I don't drink alcohol. Where I grew up, alcohol took the lives of a number of residents, grabbed others by the throat and had them spiral into addiction and helplessness or simply seemed to act as a force to keep many of my classmates in the small town. Now, don't get me wrong - I have nothing wrong with drinking for social aspects and enjoyment of taste (I do take great issue with alcohol abuse and drunk driving) but I'm someone who can have a great time without getting drunk.

But, it was Scott's description and reading of this book that really had it grab a hold of me. It was an interesting idea. He started a blog, One Year of Alberta Beer, and it took off. And from that the history of Craft Beer in the province unfolded and soon Scott had a book on his hands.

What I liked: Funny enough, this book ended up having two things I typically don't find myself drawn to in books I read or want to read - a lot of information on beer and humor! But, I have to tell you, Scott's writing is a joy and it worked really well.

The book follows him as he not only visits almost four dozen breweries of Craft Beer around the province, but dives into the history of the brewing. How it came to rise as an alternative to the major brewers and how they used different ingredients to turn their liquid into a chef's menu, allowing those who enjoy this type of alcohol to have so many varieties to sample.

Throughout, Scott really does a great job of showcasing the struggle that it took to get the industry up and going, and how it took time for them to gain any respect. To push past a "local" tag and grow into a renowned industry. I really enjoyed seeing the major players and how they pushed against the big brewers while also tentatively respecting the other micro breweries that were also entering the scene.

What I didn't like: In this case, instead of discussing a plot point or character I didn't care for, as someone who doesn't drink, I was lost when Scott was discussing flavors and ways of producing the product. I got it and know the basics, but those parts were not for me! Ha!

Why you should buy this: This is a really great look at a significant historical rise in not only the Albertan Craft Beer Industry, but Craft Beer in general. As well, the thoroughness Scott has included, while making it not only readable, but enjoyable and having perfect laugh points, showcases his talent as a writer. This one would make for a perfect read for someone who enjoys underdogs vs major player books, historical fans, beer fans, or even fans of Canadian non-fiction. I will say, it was a very insightful look at how entrepreneurs persevered when everybody around them thought they'd fail.

[Elyse · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a fan of craft beer and an Albertan, I had wanted to read this book for years but never taken the plunge. Honestly, I loved it. It was easy to read as it had stories peppered throughout. I loved learning about our high quality barley and all the scrappy breweries in our province. I have had a list of breweries to visit for years. But now I have even more reason to go to unique places like Monolith and Blindman.

[Lane Anderson · Rating 4 out of 5]

A "history" of an industry that doesn't yet have a decade of history. I was critical of this topic being worthy of 270 pages, but it came close! It held my attention for about 200 before it felt like I'd read about enough about Alberta craft beer. Scott Messenger does a great job telling the story, though.

[Jeff Morton · Rating 5 out of 5]

Tapping The West is well researched and well written. It's a must read for anyone interested in craft beer, small business or economics.

[Don Waring · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great insight into the dawning of the craft beer industry in Alberta. Both informative and entertaining. Great job.

[Darren Drake · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well written and worth a read for anyone interested in the craft brewery industry.