Ever since Annie got together with Ciccio, his Calabrian family have spoken of their homeland as an earthly paradise, of wild nights dancing the tarantella, of almond milk sold fresh from roadside stalls, of honey cakes and amaro made from wild liquorice roots... Now, at last, Annie and Ciccio are travelling down to see the ancestral home and extended family for themselves, along with a bunch of vocal and lively de Gilios who don't want to miss out on the fun.
Will everything Annie has learnt in her years among the Ligurians stand her in good stead among the Calabresi? Or is she in for another steep learning curve in the intricacies of Italian rural life?
What better way to brighten up a dreary, rainy Autumn day than a bit of armchair travel, the opportunity to transport yourself to warmer, sunnier climes. In this respect Journey to the South ticks all the right boxes.
This is the third of Annie Hawes' travel memoirs set in Italy, the first two focus on her life in Liguria as an English "blow-in" trying to fit into Italian rural life. At this stage she is engaged to Ciccio di Gilio who lives in Liguria but is considered Calabrian as his family hail from Calabria, the toe on the boot of Italy. This volume details their trip to the deepest South to seek out the de Gilio roots, meet up with extended family and get a feel for Ciccio's "homeland". What ensues is an, at times, comic and frequently chaotic pilgrimage as they are accompanied by Ciccio's mother, sister and nephew, all of whom have very different impressions/preconceptions of Calabria.
I love all things Italian (despite being a pale, freckled Celt) and this book is an absolute joy, giving the reader an insight into the idiosyncrasies of life in the Mezzogiorno. Calabria is like another country when compared with the "sophisticated" North. We hear of dodgy dealings, sinister Mafioso intrigue, government scams but you really feel that the Calabresi are true survivors with a strength of character stemming from the constant struggle to subsist despite an inhospitable environment, lack of industry, extreme poverty and a seemingly indifferent government.
However it's not all doom and gloom as Annie Hawes is a very gifted writer and an excellent people watcher. Ciccio's Calabrian relations literally jump from the page and the descriptions of mealtimes are mouthwatering (although I think I'll pass on the goat's head...) Some travel writers can occasionally drift into condescending mode, reducing people to stereotypes and presenting a series of anecdotes but Annie paints a very vivid picture with well rounded characters. In just 350 pages you experience a real flavour of the South complete with traditions, agriculture, festivals, superstitions, local dialect as well as a potted history going right back to the Normans - it's a veritable feast for the senses and the mind - enjoy this taste of Italy!
If you are interested in reading further about Southern Italy, I would highly recommend Christ Stopped at Eboli, an autobiographical novel by Carlo Levi whose anti-fascist stance led to his being banished to Lucania (now known as Basilicata) for a year in 1935.
A re-read from my bookshelves after reading Extra Virgin a few months ago. Remembered very little from the first time around so turned into an unexpected gem. Loved hearing more about the Italian way of life and soaking up the sounds and smells created by Annie Hawes writing. At a time when travel is so limited found this a really enjoyable read.
The last book of the trilogy was as good as the first, with the second being the weakest. There is no fourth book. I'm really going to miss these characters!
It took me two tries to get through this, in large part because I really hadn't expected the far south of Italy to be so alien from northern and central Italy. It felt a bit surrealistic, and like reading a book of travel from 70 years ago, not today's world. But then I guess Calabria was in a type of time warp.
I am unsure if I fell in love with this trilogy coz I love Italy or I fell in love with Italy coz of Annie's books. Wish the series could be longer with many more experiences and many more books. The author took us along with her to Calabria and I absolutely loved it. The description of the region without bias and as-is was impressive. The contrast between Liguria and Calabria and description of food was wonderful and interesting. Couldn't imagine how a place with lush greenery and plenty of water could be barren land and forced ppl to migrate to other areas in the near past. The series brought home a point - though there are differences between the regions, the gastronomic tendencies, passion for cultivating your own food, admirable art of culinary, the unpretentious and informal hospitality, cherishing of family, frnz, neighbours and togetherness remain common across the country (especially countryside) and makes me fall all over in love with Italy time and again:)
I read the first of this non-fiction series, "Extra Virgin", almost 15 years ago. OK, I've read Frances Mayes with enjoyment, but Annie Hawes' books resonate with authenticity and humor. They are harder to find in the US but worth the effort, if you love reading about Italy. In this, the 3rd book, Annie travels from Northern Italy to Calabria with her fiance and his family to meet the Calabrian branch of the de Giglio family and to check out some inherited land and property. Hilarity ensues, daily mysteries remain unsolved, culture shock hits daily. The middle of the story stalled a bit, but the final chapters were excellent and had me laughing out loud.
Unlike the other books, this one reads more like a cross between Mondo Piccolo di Don Camillo and Inspector Montalbano with its tales of brigandi and preoccupation with food. I feel I should have put on weight just reading it. As always wonderfully and affectionately told.
It was great to learn more about Italy and it's history through reading this book. Annie Hawes writes in an easy to read style and is a great observer of people. I enjoyed this book as much as her earlier ones, as it was about different parts of Italy and included some historical information which was interesting.
Does the blurb tell you you're going to get a few Italian lessons along the way? I think not. I have nothing against the Italians, far from it. But I have no interested in learning Italian right now. A story? Sure! Audiobook did not even improve the state of things.
Found this book hard to follow. Not up to the standard of her previous two books. I was very disappointed but others may find it readable. I persevered to the end and found some parts were really good but got lost in other parts. I’ll look forward to the next book when they arrive back in Liguria.
An interesting read as I journey with Annie Hawes through Calabria. I have learned many things about Italy and especially the south which I didn't know before.
Jatkoa kirjoille Extra Virgin ja Kypsä poimittavaksi. Kuvauksia italialaisesta elämänmenosta, tällä kertaa Kalabriasta. Luin suomeksi nimellä Calabrian perintö.
I liked it. I picked it up based on the fact that Extra Virgin, which I loved, is by the same author. The first chapter grabs you, though the rest of the book does not always live up to the promise of that first chapter.
In this book the author, an English woman who is living in Italy with an Italian partner travels with him and some of his family to meet those family members who are still living in the traditional south. It is a quirky personal experience and perspective book. It lost half a star with me because the whole ‘living in another culture, self depreciating, they always think I am an idiot, isn’t it cute’ theme does not strike me as cute; I think it is annoying and demeaning. This book carried it off well enough that it was bearable however.
The descriptions of Italy, Northern and Calabrian are fascinating and very, very readable. I defy anyone who likes food not to salivate or reach for Mediterranean snacks during this book. Red wine, olives and nuts were my frequent companions while reading.
The ending however... one full star down for that. There was no actual ending the narrative just stopped. It was as though the word limit is reached so we will just stop now. No logical end event selected, not the end of the journey, not the start of the journey back just..... nothing. I actually wondered if my library copy had had a page or two ripped out. In the last chapters two we kept getting hints about things that never went anywhere, not sure why.
In general though I enjoyed it, I will not be rushing out to buy it and would recommend it mainly to people with an interest in Italy or travel.
I enjoyed the beginning of this book, especially the details of the ride to the south and the conversations between the family. I did not enjoy the middle and the end as much though. Sometimes, the author bored me in her description of the food, though it was interesting when she described the food and its relationship to the culture; it reminded me of "Days of Honey". Also, I found it weird that the author would describe and reference her relationship with the members of the family but not with Ciccio who is her fiance. If some English woman traveled with the family of her lover down South of the country and has all this commentary about the people and the country, would she converse about these things with her mate; and would he have something to say too? I felt that he was an idle character that is not really part of her world.
I also enjoyed the cultural references and the stories behind them,. especially that I was able to identify with them because of shared traditions, foods and habits.
Continuing Annie's biography of her life in Italy, she travels with her adopted family to their roots at the other end of the country, down in the toe of Italy - Calabria. A captivating book, written in her own unique intimate style, revealing a side of Italy you may never have appreciated. Highly recommended.
Jatkoa Hawesin kahdelle aiemmalle kirjalle ja ihan kiva kirja olikin, ei tosin aivan yhtä hyvä kuin edelliset. Takapihalla, auringonpaisteessa lukiessa saattoi välillä kuvitella olevansa Italiassa, joten miljöökuvaus on ainakin onnistunut. Ihan kiva kirja tosiaan, muttei mikään elämää suurempi elämys kuitenkaan.
Wow, a huge undertaking to capture the culture of Calabria. But again, Annie Hawes does not disappoint. Felt a little unsatisfied with the ending, and it begs a sequel. Looking forward to reading her next.
Couldn't wait to read this as probably my first elder read of a book located where I have spent some time.. The Wild West of Calabria... A true narration of living in this part of the world..