The Nom Wah Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from 100 Years at New York City's Iconic Dim Sum Restaurant

by Wilson Tang, Joshua David Stein

For the last 100 years, Nom Wah Tea Parlor has been slinging some of the world’s greatest dim sum from New York's Chinatown. Now owner Wilson Tang tells the story of how the restaurant came to be - and how to prepare their legendary dishes in your own home.

Nom Wah Tea Parlor isn't simply the story of dumplings, though there are many folds to it. It isn’t the story of bao, though there is much filling. It’s not just the story of dim sum, although there are scores and scores of recipes. It’s the story of a community of Chinese immigrants who struggled, flourished, cooked, and ate with abandon in New York City.  (Who now struggle, flourish, cook, and eat with abandon in New York City.) It's a journey that begins in Toishan, runs through Hong Kong, and ends up tucked into the corner of a street once called The Bloody Angle. 

In this book, Nom Wah's owner, Wilson Tang, takes us into the hardworking kitchen of Nom Wah and emerges with 75 easy-to-make recipes: from bao to vegetables, noodles to desserts, cakes, rice rolls, chef’s specials, dumplings, and more.

We're also introduced to characters like Mei Lum, the fifth-generation owner of porcelain shop Wing on Wo, and Joanne Kwong, the lawyer-turned-owner of Pearl River Mart. He paints a portrait of what Chinatown in New York City is in 2020. As Wilson, who quit a job in finance to take over the once-ailing family business, struggles with the dilemma of immigrant children - to jettison tradition or to cling to it - he also points to a new way: to savor tradition while moving forward. A book for har gow lovers and rice roll junkies, The Nom Wah Cookbook portrays a culture at a crossroads.

Genres: Cookbooks, Food, Nonfiction, Cooking, Asian Literature, History, Audiobook

272 pages, Hardcover

First published October 20, 2020

Reviews

[Anela · Rating 5 out of 5]

You will never find me sitting down with a cookbook and reading it straight through but that’s exactly what I did with this one. I rarely use them to begin with being what I like to call a “pantry cook” guided by the throw it in and taste it as you go method. Through Covid I’ve been isolated in a very white area as a mixed-race Asian adult and found myself missing Boston Chinatown the comfort of the rows of Asian greens at the grocery stores and the egg custard buns from the dim sum place I’d go to every new year. I’ve spent most of this pandemic trying to reclaim my relationship with the foods of my Chinese Malaysian culture and the foods that I’ve always seen as too much work. This book was a treasure and all the stories have hit me hard now in this turning point moment for what community means and what moving culture forward with respect to its history can look like. That being said I have yet to actually try the recipes themselves but will definitely be working my way through them.

[Holly Fernandez · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is one book I'm going to be using A LOT!! I enjoyed so much how Chinese history was implemented in the different sections. I always admired Chinese culture and I respect them even more now knowing the injustices they had to endure while immigrating to America and how we don't hear them complain about these things but despite these injustices they overcame this and with their hard work and endurance have accomplished many things preserving their culture and tradition in their families. I didn't know why I admired them so much but now I know a little bit why. I know I love dim sum :o)

[Emma]

I'm leaving this unrated because I haven't actually tried any of the recipes.

I enjoyed reading the stories of the history of the Nom Wah restaurant and looking at the recipes made my mouth water for the delicious jiao zi and bao zi I used to eat from street vendors in China. However, I would need a lot of specialty ingredients (and also would need to search for a grocery store in my Midwestern city that carries them) to make these recipes and my grocery budget just doesn't allow for that. I did appreciate the instructions for utilizing what kitchen supplies most American cooks have on hand to create a steamer, but if I *did* have the budget for specialty ingredients I would probably also spend some money on a bamboo steamer as well. Maybe one day! I would love to perfect making dumplings at home!

[EKL · Rating 5 out of 5]

Reading this brings me back to childhood, roaming around Chinatown with my grandmother and eating dim sum. The stories about different local businesses and people were fun to read and I’m looking forward to trying my hand at making many of these recipes!

[Bookworm · Rating 4 out of 5]

I don't know what drew me to this cookbook (I've never been to Nom Wah Tea Parlor and had never heard of the place before seeing the book) but it sounded like an interesting read. I enjoy food and restaurant histories so this seemed like a fun read. It was Thanksgiving week so food seemed like a fitting feed.

I can't say I know much about the cooking techniques or authenticity or how good their food is, etc, but the book was enjoyable. A mix of recipes of foods you probably know (dumplings, fried rice) plus maybe items you're not as familiar with (mooncake, perhaps, but your experience may vary). There are some nice pictures and history of the foods, the restaurant, the author's family, etc.

There's not much more to say. As an e-book I'm not sure how well this looks as a physical cookbook or how well it works (whether you can prop it up) or not. But if you're someone who just enjoys reading cookbooks and/or food/restaurant histories (especially if you've been to or are a fan of the restaurant!), this might not be a bad read.

Library borrow for me and that was best. For the right person, though, this could be a great buy.

[theladyv · Rating 5 out of 5]

A true treasure - more than a collection of recipes, this cookbook features NYC Chinese Americans whose stories are reminiscent of my own. Wilson Tang captures the spirit of NYC Chinatown - resilient, determined, endlessly creative, and full of immigrant hustle. What a joy to have these recipes, people, and Chinatown businesses captured here - I didn’t know most of the backstories of these shops that I have been going to for years!

Nom Wah Tea Parlor has long been one of my favorite places for yum cha and I’m looking forward to trying out these recipes at home.

Don’t hesitate to buy this book and then get out there and support your local Chinatown or Chinese restaurants! As Tang points out, these businesses are more than the food they serve - they are living histories. And they are in danger of disappearing, were it not for the grit, commitment and passion of their owners. Tang has done his part - now we have to do ours.

[Cathy Klein · Rating 4 out of 5]

I think I heard about this book through Audiofile podcast and I really enjoyed it.

You might think it would be odd to listen to a cookbook, but Tang made this not just about the recipes. It started by saying that the recipes would not be read, but that the reader could access them through the publishers website. Instead, it focused on the history of not only Nom Was, but Chinese cooking itself.

I always wondered why Egg Rolls were called egg rolls and now I know. For fun facts and more culinary entertainment, this is a good one to read.

[Karen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Outstanding! This is one of those books that not only has the reader wanting to make all the recipes, but has interesting and amusing writing in between. Each major chapter is followed by a section of biography of someone important to the restaurant, or a few pages about other important local businesses, or whatever. And Mr. Tang sure knows how to crack a joke! I’m not entirely ready to return this to the library!

[Chelsea · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great stories - both enlightening and vivid.
Recipes (which I followed to a T) are often poorly tested or just not *good* - pork and veggie master fillings none of the family liked.
Loved the Char Sui bao (thought the dough recipe as written is too sticky to work with, needs appx 1/2c more flour - which I kneaded in the first time, and added at the beginning the next time I made and was great).
OG egg rolls are also really good.

[Guy Halmick · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wow a cookbook like no other!

There are numerous recipes that sound delicious and that I intend to make. Beyond those recipes are the stories, history really, which are what makes this cookbook like no other. I read it through in one setting and I have never done that before with a cookbook. Get this book for the recipes and read it for the stories.

[Kay Kelly · Rating 5 out of 5]

Must have Cookbook

This cook book is a treat. Nom Wah is one of my most favorite restaurants in NYC. The scallion pancakes are light and the dim sum are flavorful and beautiful to look at. I just had to have the recipes. Included are stories about other Chinatown institutions, such as Pearl River Mart, a fun place to shop for Oriental goods.

[Susan Leong · Rating 5 out of 5]

Missing Chinatown!

Good easy read about a fascinating town within a town! I applaud all of these spirited people preserving the old while growing with new ideas and products. Pray they can withstand COVID and self isolation!

[Shaida Hossein]

Interested in dumpling dipping sauce, plain cheung fun, scallion pancake, egg fried rice, pan fried noodles, garlic eggplant noodles, sloppy joe noodle, salt and pepper shrimp, Cantonese style beef filet, fried sesame balls with lotus paste

[Queer · Rating 4 out of 5]

Finally a reliable recipe for the chopped cheese dumplings… This handy guide could have used more practical advice on forming the dumplings and managing problems with making dumplings but it succeeds as a memory of Nom Wah and a rapidly changing and forever changed chinatown.

[FrankieBeans Indisguise · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyed the story and might try a couple of recipes.

[Carolyn · Rating 5 out of 5]

so much more than great recipes and photos.

[db · Rating 4 out of 5]

The recipes and techniques taught in this book are wonderful. I’ve really enjoyed cooking with this book and then of course, enjoying the food.

[Aasinathena · Rating 5 out of 5]

The-dumpling-heaven-at-home-anytime- BOOK ! Gonna grab my copy soon and make some ! This library read is way to delicious to return to... So Im gonna buy me this one !

[Liquidlasagna · Rating 3 out of 5]

some recipes and some flavors may not be perfect, but I think some of the guidelines are pretty helpful

[Offbalance · Rating 3 out of 5]

While the recipes were a little out of my ability range, the stories more than made up for it. Definitely plan on heading back to Nom Wah in the very near future.

[Alexandra · Rating 3 out of 5]

Much less intimidating than other dim sum books, great recipes. Dumplings in particular are amazing

[Helen Geng]

Excited to go to signing April 27, 2022 @Yu & Me Bookstore, 44 Mulberry St. in Chinatown NYC!

[Tina Arniotes · Rating 4 out of 5]

Solid cookbook, everything I’ve made has been great. Minus 1 star because instructions could be more in depth

[Hannah · Rating 2 out of 5]

A bit mistitled and not well introduced. This is a collection of stories from members of NYC’s Chinatown community.

[Christopher · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5

[Joe · Rating 3 out of 5]

The recipes and techniques were great, especially the specific ingredient brand recommendations. The stories about first and second generation immigrants were also interesting.

[Charles Eldridge · Rating 5 out of 5]

Big fan of this dim sum cookbook. My family had a wonderful time exploring and making such a variety of favorites from this book. Absolutely the most accessible and enjoyable dim sum cookbook out there.

[Kate K. F. · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an amazing cookbook and record of a community. The interviews and stories in the beginning of the chapter really create a wonderful portrait of New York's Chinatown and the recipes make me want to cook. I actually went out and stocked my kitchen with recs from this book and while I haven't had a chance to cook anything yet, my library hold went up. I want to since the author made the recipes accessible and easy to understand as well as sounding delicious. When travel is possible again, I want to go and explore NYC's Chinatown with this book as a partial guide, it also helped me look at the places in my neighborhood in a different way.

[Marie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not only a good cookbook but a WONDERFUL collection of various family histories from NY Chinatown. It's so lovely to keep this history.