Eiger Direct: The epic battle on the North Face

by Peter L. Gillman, Dougal Haston, Chris Bonington (Photographer)

The North Face of the Eiger was long notorious as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had claimed the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams – one German, the other British–American – aimed to climb it by a new direct route. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other’s attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British–American team and intended to make an Alpine-style dash for the summit as soon as weather conditions allowed. The Germans, with an eight-man team, planned a relentless Himalayan-style ascent, whatever the weather. The authors were key participants as the dramatic events unfolded. Award-winning writer Peter Gillman , then twenty-three, was reporting for the Telegraph , talking to the climbers by radio and watching their monumental struggles from telescopes at the Kleine Scheidegg hotel. Renowned Scottish climber Dougal Haston was a member of Harlin’s team, forging the way up crucial pitches on the storm-battered mountain. Chris Bonington began as official photographer but then played a vital role in the ascent. Eiger Direct , first published in 1966, is a story of risk and resilience as the climbers face storms, frostbite and tragedy in their quest to reach the summit. This edition features a new introduction by Peter Gillman.

Genres: Nonfiction, Biography, Travel

136 pages, Paperback

First published January 19, 1970

Reviews

[Robin · Rating 4 out of 5]

A Classic That Stands The Test Of Time

I first read this book as a late teenager an embarrassingly long time ago. I'd wanted to re-read it since but it had become difficult to find. Once I saw that it was now available for Kindle i jumped on it.

To me it still holds up. While it's less detailed than I remember, and it's entirely possible it has amalgamated in my memory with accounts of the climb I had read from Haston and Bonnington themselves, still grips one with the excitement, tension, and horror of the climb. Gillman's journalistic bent for storytelling makes this an accessible read for those unaccustomed to mountaineering terminology while remaining just as interesting for us "armchair mountaineers." He's gone on to write a more detailed book, " Extreme Eiger, " about these same events with the benefit of hindsight and with much greater access to the German team's account as well as to the Harlin family. This book, however, is still excellent and a fundamental pillar of the Eiger compendium.

[Manselk · Rating 5 out of 5]

Often referred to as a "bare knuckle fight", having been there I can only confirm. This was an epic battle, in which after surviving just about everything nature could throw at them and the loss of John Harlin made their eventual success a land make for alpine climbing. An epic told with reverence and insight.

[Joseph Benton · Rating 5 out of 5]

Brilliant description of a quote mental effort. The 60s British style and politeness makes it all the better

[chucklesthescot · Rating 4 out of 5]

John Harlin gathered a climbing team to obtain his greatest goal-a successful climb of the North Face of the Eiger. It would be the first climb of the Direct Route, and they would have to beat a German rival team as well as the elements on the mountain itself. However, tragedy was to strike during the climb, leaving the team and their rivals with a dilemma over continuing.

The conditions and the climb itself sounded like an exercise in torture. The changing weather patterns meaning that progress was slow and energy was being sapped away as they waited to move up. The detail of what they experienced before the tragic death of one of the team was bad enough, but the effect of losing the man was quite heartbreaking.

This was an excellent book about the expedition with the lows and bittersweet conclusion. If you liked Annapurna, you will probably enjoy this book.

[Alasdair Fulton · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really enjoyed this. 3rd person style was a bit odd, but I get why. It does feel remarkably fresh for a 60 year old event.