If you live in Santa Cruz, especially if you live on the westside, this book is for you. If not, probably not.
I walk by Lighthouse Point, and the lighthouse, at least once a day, and knowing some of its history just enriches what is already a great experience. The original lighthouse was built in 1869 and began operations in 1870. Unlike the current lighthouse, this was a three bedroom wood-frame house, where generations of lighthouse keepers lived and cared for the lighthouse’s oil-burning lantern.
Perry tells the story of the land, now called Lighthouse Point, where the lighthouse would eventually be built, starting from Spanish California, through Mexican rule, and on to the time when California became a territory of the United States. He gives some picture of those early days when Santa Cruz was primarily a lumber and agricultural community.
All along, Santa Cruz appealed to inhabitants of San Francisco (about 75 miles away) and San Francisco Bay as a vacation spot, and Perry tells us about the vacation homes built there, often by wealthy families as second or third homes. The land around the lighthouse, now Lighthouse Field State Beach, was at one time Phelan Park, where James Phelan, and his extended family built elegant cottages and gardens. Phelan had made much of his fortune during the Gold Rush days of California.
Nothing of Phelan Park exists today, except the land itself, which was bulldozed in preparation for one of several planned developments, including hotels, conference centers, shopping extravaganzas, and, of course, parking lots. The story of those never-developed proposals for what became the park is interesting in itself. Santa Cruz might be a very different city today if it had turned in the more commercial direction of those plans. Some made their way along the necessary approval steps, but nothing ever happened.
That history of Lighthouse Field was particularly interesting to me, as it goes some way toward explaining why the park looks the way it does today. Hardly a manicured urban park, it is a scrubby home to all sorts of critters, including coyotes, raccoons, rabbits, and Santa Cruz’s unofficial masters, the gophers. The park is also the winter home of thousands of monarch butterflies.
But the lighthouse itself is the focus of the story. Perry tells us about each lighthouse keeper, and their families, beginning with Adna Hecox in 1870 on through to the eventual replacement of the lighthouse by an automated beacon in 1948. The lighthouse was torn down as no longer needed. After all, an automated beacon could now do the job without the constant, manual maintenance of the old-fashioned lighthouse.
But in 1967, a new lighthouse was built anyway, very near the same spot as the lighthouse of 1870. Chuck and Esther Abbott had lost their son, Mark, to a body surfing accident in 1965 and wanted to build a lighthouse in his memory. They worked with the Coast Guard to get approval and cooperation. Lighthouses were no longer being built in the United States, so this was an extraordinary proposal.
So today, there is a lighthouse again at Lighthouse Point, the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse. The current lighthouse is a much smaller, brick building with no lightkeeper. But it houses the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum and is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
Perry gives a brief history of surfing in Santa Cruz to give context both for the museum and for what became one of the best surfing spots in the United States, Steamer Lane, right off Lighthouse Point.
Obviously, I learned a lot about the place I live from Perry’s book. It’s probably not something that someone who doesn’t live in or at least visit Santa Cruz often would get as much of a kick out of. For me, it makes my walks by the lighthouse that much more interesting.