The Scottish Borders came alive for me during a week-long walk in the borderlands along St. Cuthbert’s Way, the Southern Upland Way, and the Borders Abbeys Way. My friends and I stayed at an old hotel in Melrose where we met the locals at the pub and in the shops. Walking along the Tweed River and exploring the old Roman Road, ruined abbeys, small towns, and memorials dotting the hillsides was a magnificent experience, made far more interesting by this charming, lively, regional history.
The tale begins with small bands of prehistoric hunter gatherers and ends at the beginning of the 21st Century. Moffat focuses on the lives of ordinary people, how they lived, the stories they told, the technologies they invented, and the literature they spoke and later wrote. Even in describing the battles so common in the medieval border country, Moffat shows is how they affected the common soldiers and small farmsteads as well as the political leaders.
One insight changes the way I think about British history, which I have always heard recounted as a series of invasions that changed its culture and history over time. Moffat points out that DNA from Cheddar Man matched that of a local school teacher and that while political leadership changed over time with the influx of foreigners, local people’s’ culture enjoyed a long continuity.
This was a long and not an easy read but the pages devoted to new plow technology were easily offset by the pleasures of reading about the Sir Walter Scott’s romanticized version of the Borders and why it’s wrong, learning about how medieval farmsteads worked, reading excerpts of literature and oral histories, and, most of all, filling in the answers to questions I had about the land, its people, and how time forged what I saw during my magical week of trekking the Borders.