Travels and Other Writings

by William Bartram

This classic narrative of travels through America's southern wilderness was first published in 1791 by botanist William Bartram. From an Indian village to an orange grove, from the Mississippi to the Florida coast, this exquisite travel diary--enhanced with Bartram's own line drawings--brings to life the raw beauty of the American South as it was over 200 years ago.

Genres: Nonfiction, Nature, Travel, Natural History, History, Science, Classics

432 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1791

About the author

John Bartram fathered botanist William Bartram, a son.

American ornithologist, natural historian, and explorer

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William...

Reviews

[Paul Peterson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Referenced in the great book and movie "Cold Mountain" this is a travel/nature log covering the southern colonies, written in late 18th century America by William Bartram, a second-generation naturalist/botanist. I am not a botanist, so had to skip the latin names he uses for all the plants he describes, but everything else about this read was fascinating. A "few" of my favorite excerpts...

"The river St. Mary has its source from a vast lake, or marsh, called Ouaquaphenogaw, which lies between Flint and Oakmulge rivers...the present generation of the Creeks represent to be a most blissful spot of the earth: they say it is inhabited by a peculiar race of Indians, whose women are incomparably beautiful; they also tell you that this terrestrial paradise has been seen by some of their enterprising hunters, when in pursuit of game, who being lost in inextricable swamps and bogs, and on the point of perishing, were unexpectedly relieved by a company of beautiful women, whom they call daughters of the sun, who kingly gave them such provisions as they had with them, which were chiefly fruit, oranges, dates, etc. and some corn cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for safety to their own country; for that their husbands were fierce men, and cruel to strangers: they further say, that these hunters had a view of their settlements, situated on the elevated banks of an island, or promontory, in a beautiful lake; but that in their endeavours to approach it, they were involved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted land, still as they imagined they had just gained it, it seemed to fly before them, alternately appearing and disappearing."

"Not far distant from the terrace, or eminence, overlooking the low grounds of the river, many very magnificent monuments of the power and industry of the ancient inhabitants of these lands are visible. I observed a stupendous conical pyramid, or artificial mount of earth, vast tetragon terraces, and a large sunken area, of a cubical form, encompassed with banks or earth; and certain traces of a larger Indian town, the work of a powerful nation, whose period of grandeur perhaps long preceded the discovery of this continent."

"As for the animal productions, they are the same which originally inhabited this part of North America, except such as have been affrighted away since the invasion of the Europeans. The buffalo (urus) once so very numerous, is not at this day to be seen in this part of the country; there are but few elks, and those only in the Appalachian Mountains."

"We are, all of us, subject to crosses and disappointments, but more especially the traveller; and when they surprise us, we frequently become restless and impatient under them: but let us rely on Providence, and by studying and contemplating the works and power of the Creator, learn wisdom and understanding in the economy of nature, and be seriously attentive to the divine monitor within. Let us be obedient to the ruling powers in such things as regard human affairs, our duties to each other, and all creatures and concerns that are submitted to our care and controul."

"It may be a subject worthy of some inquiry, why those fine islands, on the coast of Georgia, are so thinly inhabited; though perhaps Amelia may in some degree plead as exemption, as it is a very fertile island, on the north border of East Florida, and at the Capes of St. Mary, the finest harbour in this new colony."

"I observed this day, during my progress up the river, incredible numbers of small flying insects, of the genus termed by naturalists Ephemera, continually emerging from the shallow water near shore, some of them immediately taking their flight to the land, whilst myriads crept up the grass and herbage, where remaining for a short time, as they acquired sufficient strength, they took their flight also, following their kindred to the main land. This resurrection from the deep, if I may so express it, commences early in the morning, and ceases after the sun is up. At evening they are seen in clouds of innumerable millions, swarming and wantoning in the still air, gradually drawing near the river. They descend upon its surface, and there quickly end their day, after committing their eggs to the deep; which being for a little while tossed about, enveloped in a viscid scum, are hatched, and the little Larva descend into their secure and dark habitation, in the oozy bed beneath, where they remain, gradually increasing in size, until the returning spring: they then change to a Nymph, when the genial heat brings them, as it were, into existence, and they again arise into the world. this fly seems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and fish."

"Such is the virtue of these untutored savages: but I am afraid this is a common phrase epithet, having no meaning, or at least improperly applies; for these people are both well tutored and civil; and it is apparent to an impartial observer, who resides but a little time amongst them, that it is from the most delicate sense of the honour and reputation of their tribes and families, that their laws and customs receive their tribes and families, that their laws and customs receive their force and energy. This is the divine principle which influences their moral conduct, and solely preserves their constitution and civil government in that purity in which they are found to prevail amongst them."

"...the river, (in this place) from shore to shore, and perhaps near half a mile above and below me, appeared to be one solid bank of fish, of various kinds, pushing through this narrow pass of St. Juan's into the little lake, on their return down the river, and that the alligators were in such incredible numbers, and so close together from shore to shore, that it would have been easy to have walked across on their heads, had the animals been harmless? What expressions can sufficiently declare the shocking scene that for some minutes continued, whilst this might army of fish were forcing the pass? Suring this attempt, thousands, I may say hundreds of thousands, of them were caught and swallowed by the devouring alligators. I have seen an alligator take up out of the water several great fish at a time, and just squeeze them betwixt his jaws, while the tails of the great trout flapped about his eyes and lips, ere he had swallowed them. The horrid noise of their closing jaw2s, their plunging amidst the broken banks of fish, and rising with their prey some feet upright above the water, the floods of water and blood rushing out of their mouths, and the clouds of vapour issuing from their wide nostrils, were truly frightful. This scene continued at intervals during the night, as the fish came to the pass. After this sight, shocking and tremendous as it was, I found myself somewhat easier and more reconciled to my situation; being convinced that their extraordinary assemblage here was owing to this annual feast of fish; and that they were so well employed in their own element, that I had little occasion to fear their paying me a visit."

"...however the ancients thought otherwise: for with them, the knowledge of the passage of birds was the study of their priests and philosophers, and was considered a matter of real and indispensable use to the state, next to astronomy; as we find their system and practice of agriculture was in a great degree regulated by the arrival and disappearance of birds of passage; and perhaps a calendar under such a regulation at this time, might be useful to the husbandman and gardener."

"...heaps of white, gnawed bones of the ancient buffaloe, elk and deer, indiscriminately mixed with those of men, half grown over with moss, altogether, exhibit scenes of uncultivated nature, on reflection, perhaps, rather disagreeable to a mind of delicate feelings and sensibility, since some of these objects recognize past transactions and events, perhaps not altogether reconcileable to justice and humanity."

"I found myself unable, notwithstanding the attentive admonitions and persuasive arguments of reason, entirely to erase from my mind, those impressions which I had received from the society of the amiable and polite inhabitants of Charleston; and I could not help comparing my present situation in some degree to Nebuchadnezzar's, when expelled from the society of men, and constrained to roam in the mountains and wilderness, there to herd and feed with the wild beasts of the forests."

"The Cherokees construct their habitations on a different plan from the Creeks; that is, but one oblong four square building, of one story high; the materials consisting of logs or trunks of trees, stripped of their bark, notched at their ends, fixed one upon another, and afterwards plaistered well, both inside and out, with clay well-tempered with dry grass, and the whole covered or roofed with the bark of the chestnut tree or long broad shingles. This building is however partitioned transversely, forming three apartments, which communicate with each other by inside doors; each house or habitation has besides a little conical house, covered with dirt, which is called the winter or hot-house; this stands a few yards distance from the mansion-house, opposite the front door."

"Thus we see that war or the exercise of arms originates from the same motives, and operates in the spirits of the wild red men of AMerica, as it formerly did with the renowned Greeks and Romans, or modern civilized nations, and not from a ferocious, capricious desire of shedding human blood as carnivorous savages: neither does the eager avarice of plunder stimulate them to acts of madness and cruelty, that being a trifling object in their estimation, a duffield blanket, a polished rifle gun, or embroidered mantle; no, their martial prowess and objects of desire and ambition proceed from greater principles and more magnanimous intentions, even that of reuniting all nations and languages under one universal confederacy or common wealth."

"It is astonishing, though a fact, as well as a sharp reproof to the white people, if they will allow themselves liberty to reflect and form a just estimate, and I must own elevates these people to the first rank amongst mankind, that they have been able to resist the continual efforts of the complicated host of vices, that have for ages over-run the nations of the old world, and so contaminated their morals; yet more so, since such vast armies of these evil spirits have invaded this continent, and closely invested them on all sides. Astonishing indeed! when we behold the ill, immoral conduct of too many white people, who reside amongst them: notwithstanding which, it seems natural, eligible, and even easy, for these simple, illiterate people, to put in practice those beautiful lectures delivered to us by the ancient sages and philosophers, and recorded for our instruction."

"How are we to account for their excellent policy in civil government; it cannot derive its influence from coercive laws, for they have no such artificial system. Divine wisdom dictates and they obey."

"...he looked as smiling and cheerful as youth, yet stone-blind by extreme old age: he was the most ancient chief of the town, and they all seemed to reverence him. ... He said, that when he was a young man they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, knives, razors nor guns, that they then made use of their own stone axes, clay pots, flint knives, bows and arrows; and that he was the first man who brought the white people's goods into his town, which he did on his back from Charleston, five hundred miles on foot, for they had no horses then amongst them."

"Their (the Creek or Muscogulge) migrations continued a long time, and under great hardships and embarrassments, they being continually attacked by hostile Indian nations, till at length they arrived at the banks of the Great River (Mississippi)...when, hearing of the settlements of the white people, i.e. Spaniards, at St. Augustine, they sent ambassadors to treat with them on terms of mutual favor; but not being kindly received, and hearing of other nations of white people further to the N.E., i.e., in Carolina (the English at this time were founding the colony of South Carolina at Charleston_, they sent deputies or ambassadors to Charleston, offering their friendship and alliance, to continue for ever (as long as the fivers flow and the sun continues his course). A treaty immediately took place, and they joined their arms with the Carolinians, who assisted them against the surrounding Indian nations, which were then in the Spanish interest, whom they at length subjugated, and, in the end, proved the destruction of the Spanish colony of Est Florida. ... It seems apparent, by this account, that the Muscogulges crossed the Mississippi some where about the Chickasaw county, below the confluence of the Ohio, as they mention crossing but one large river, i.e., the Mississippi, or Great River."

"However, I am not for levelling things down to the simplicity of Indians, yet I may be allowed to conjecture that we may possibly better our condition in civil society, by paying some more respect to and impartially examining the system of legislation, religion, morality, and economy of these despised, persecuted 'wild people' or as they are learnedly called, 'bipeds' - I suppose meaning a creature differing from quadrupeds."

"Indeed, they seem to consider all the Indians of the earth as one great family or community, who have separated themselves as convenience or necessity have directed, and formed innumerable nations, - climates, situations, revolutions, renovations, or other unknown causes, having marked the different nations and tribes by different stature, color, complexion, manners, customs, language, etc, etc."

"...and this is universal throughout the nations of the continent, unless we are to except the 'Esquemaux', who appear to be another race, and with good reason are supposed to be an European colony, much later than the colonization of the red race, supposing them to be not absolutely aborigines."

"Thus they are hospitable, forgiving, gentle, humane, and grateful, without precept or scholastic education; and this by nature or some other unknown cause, without the least desire or expectation of applause or reward."

[Margaret Harris · Rating 5 out of 5]

I ordered this book because it was mentioned as one studied by Marjorie Rawlings in a biography of her life at Cross Creek, Florida, written by Ann McCutcheon. Despite its heft, and its sometimes tedious writing, I read the whole thing. The plants, reptiles, mammals, birds, insects, and native tribal peoples, as well as the general earth landscape of his trip, both via water craft and by horseback, around a large southeastern corner of what would become the US, are all described—in minute detail.

What is a bit puzzling is that there is zero mention of the stirring political climate near these areas at the time of his travel between 1773 and 1778, especially in the Carolinas and even in Virginia, which he passed through on his way home to Pennsylvania. As far as a reader can determine, both coastal and backwoods traders, the Indian tribal settlements, sailors upon inland waterways around the coast all the way to the Mississippi River, and Bartram himself were all oblivious to the Revolutionary War being fought against Britain in the colonies during this period. He even mentions not infrequently his operational system of passing along numerous boxes of his sample collections for shipping from Charleston to his sponsor in England.

So the book is also actually interesting for that omission, since it inadvertently describes the historical setting of the places he visits, which consists of a wildness unrecognizable to modern times. The forests, meadows, savannas, swamps, creeks and rivers, and rocks or shells over hills and valleys, are presented in word pictures of idyllic scenes. And the man was interested in the roots, stems, leaves, tree trunks, cane growths, and surely thousands of flowers (and fruits) he sought and recorded. He also relates his visits to various villages of the Cherokee, Chicasaw, Creek, Choctaw, Seminole, and Muscogulge tribes, and describes the similarities and differences he observed in each.

I'm glad I read the book, because I think I have a renewed appreciation of a beautiful natural habitat that has now shrunk to perhaps one percent (just guessing) of what it once was. I suspect Marjorie Rawlings felt somewhat similarly.

[Jim Gallen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book in preparation for a book club. Actually, I read just over half of it. It is the author’s account of his travels through coastal Carolina, Georgia and Florida from 1773-1776 during which the author collected seeds. It consists, primarily, of observations and descriptions of flora, fauna and people, both European and Indians.

Descriptions are very detailed and obviously written by a scientist, who frequently uses colloquial monikers with scientific names in parenthesis or footnotes. Consider some samples.

“Live Oaks are of an astonishing magnitude, and one tree contains a prodigious quantity of timber; yet, comparatively, they are not tall, even in these forests.”
“extremely well timbered with the following trees: Quercus tinctoria, Qierc, alba…”

I enjoyed the descriptions, particularly of St. Simons Island, on which we had recently vacationed. The text remined me of Thoreau’s Through the Maine Woods, with less literary taste, and Theodore Roosevelt’s animal specimen collecting trips, though more focused on flora.

I said I only read half. I enjoyed what I read, but felt I had enough. A real naturalist may find it more interesting. I am glad I was directed toward it, but need not read more.

[Ted · Rating 3 out of 5]

Bartram was a 18th Century naturalist. His father was a naturalist as well, and he toured areas of America with his father, learning the science. This book contains his writings from about 1773-1776 as he traveled through the Carolinas, Georgia and Florida. He wrote extensive notes about everything he observed from the flora and fauna to the soil and topography of the land. He also wrote extensive notes about the American Indians he encountered and visited. I will admit I didn't read every word of his notes, as he goes into great detail describing plants and animals and also the behavior of the animals he saw. I found his notes about the American Indians to be most interesting. He describes their habits (which he at times admits he didn't always understand), their religion, their government, relationship of the genders, attitudes toward property ownership and their cities and buildings. He was far more sympathetic towards the Indians than many Europeans of his day, often commenting very favorably about their behavior, thinking and methods.

[Valerie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bartram offers an interesting perspective on colonial America. His descriptions of the natural world place him within the tradition of early American natural history writers. Unlike other writers on the same topic, he thoroughly connects nature to the sublime and explores vitalist principles.

[Nick · Rating 3 out of 5]

Check out the illustrations and some of the shorter writings in this collection. Bartram's descriptive observations on North American flora and fauna are both captivating and objective.

[Gary Land · Rating 4 out of 5]

William Bartram was one of America's early naturalists. His TRAVELS, therefore, are a mixture of travel writing and scientific descriptions of the flora and fauna, particularly of South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida where he journeyed during the Revolutionary years. His account is enlivened by his many encounters with alligators and the uncertainty of dealing with the ever-changing alliances and attitudes of the native Americans. Those readers with an interest in botany will find his descriptions of the largely unspoiled land enlightening, but for the non-scientist these sections of his writing are somewhat tedious. The "Other Writings" include descriptions of the Native Americans, various scientific reports, and an entertaining account of a tamed crow. This is an important work, if not always stimulating reading.

[Mister · Rating 3 out of 5]

A rare reflection account of 1700's America and the author, who is a naturalist, artist and a trekker, is an amazing writer comparable to Emerson and Thoreau. Bartram gives broad descriptions of the physical landscape surrounding Southeastern states such as the Appalachian Mountains and the sweltering swamps of Florida. This 1791 text also gives a rare look at the rich customs of the Native Americans in a non-biased form.

[Paul Jellinek · Rating 5 out of 5]

A thoroughly enjoyable trip through the southeastern states at the time of the American Revolution, in the company of one of America's greatest botanists. Bartram is both a genial companion and a wonderful writer who shows you America when much of it was still unspoiled. The Library of America edition is beautifully illustrated with plates of Bartram's own drawings, and the book itself--like all LOA books--is a sheer pleasure to read.

[Conrad · Rating 4 out of 5]

An interesting glimpse into the Deep South in the mid 1770's when the only white men beyond the coastal settlements were Indian Traders. As a naturalist he goes into extensive lists of plants and birds and descriptions of the soil and landscape (often using the Latin names), but aside from that the accounts of his travels, his encounters with alligators and interactions with the native populations and traders are really quite fascinating.

[Pris · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bartram's travels in the American south is a rich description of landscape. There was a point in the book where he describes a fish and the description is so rich in imagery and invokes the senses.