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Mountain Lines: A Journey through the French Alps
A New York Times best summer travel book recommendation
A nonfiction debut about an American’s solo, month-long, 400-mile walk from Lake Geneva to Nice.
In the summer of 2015, Jonathan Arlan was nearing thirty. Restless, bored, and daydreaming of adventure, he comes across an image on the Internet one a map of the southeast corner of France with a single red line snaking south from Lake Geneva, through the jagged brown and white peaks of the Alps to the Mediterranean sea—a route more than four hundred miles long. He decides then and there to walk the whole trail solo.
Lacking any outdoor experience, completely ignorant of mountains, sorely out of shape, and fighting last-minute nerves and bad weather, things get off to a rocky start. But Arlan eventually finds his mountain legs—along with a staggering variety of aches and pains—as he tramps a narrow thread of grass, dirt, and rock between cloud-collared, ice-capped peaks in the High Alps, through ancient hamlets built into hillsides, across sheep-dotted mountain pastures, and over countless cols on his way to the sea. In time, this simple, repetitive act of walking for hours each day in the remote beauty of the mountains becomes as exhilarating as it is exhausting.
Mountain Lines is the stirring account of a month-long journey on foot through the French Alps and a passionate and intimate book laced with humor, wonder, and curiosity. In the tradition of trekking classics like A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush , The Snow Leopard , and Tracks , the book is a meditation on movement, solitude, adventure, and the magnetic power of the natural world.
A nonfiction debut about an American’s solo, month-long, 400-mile walk from Lake Geneva to Nice.
In the summer of 2015, Jonathan Arlan was nearing thirty. Restless, bored, and daydreaming of adventure, he comes across an image on the Internet one a map of the southeast corner of France with a single red line snaking south from Lake Geneva, through the jagged brown and white peaks of the Alps to the Mediterranean sea—a route more than four hundred miles long. He decides then and there to walk the whole trail solo.
Lacking any outdoor experience, completely ignorant of mountains, sorely out of shape, and fighting last-minute nerves and bad weather, things get off to a rocky start. But Arlan eventually finds his mountain legs—along with a staggering variety of aches and pains—as he tramps a narrow thread of grass, dirt, and rock between cloud-collared, ice-capped peaks in the High Alps, through ancient hamlets built into hillsides, across sheep-dotted mountain pastures, and over countless cols on his way to the sea. In time, this simple, repetitive act of walking for hours each day in the remote beauty of the mountains becomes as exhilarating as it is exhausting.
Mountain Lines is the stirring account of a month-long journey on foot through the French Alps and a passionate and intimate book laced with humor, wonder, and curiosity. In the tradition of trekking classics like A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush , The Snow Leopard , and Tracks , the book is a meditation on movement, solitude, adventure, and the magnetic power of the natural world.
264 pages, Paperback
First published February 14, 2017
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383 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 35 reviews
July 2, 2022
In my mind there are two approaches to proper travel writing. One can write about a place that one has never been before and invite us as readers to learn about the place and people along the way, adding in historical anecdotes and geographical facts and short biographies of the people you come across (or, even better, if you're well travelled, contrasts in the rhythms of life and nature from one place to another). One can alternatively write about a place with which one is deeply familiar and take on the role of an authorial shaman, a keen knower-of-all in your corner of the world. What I can't fully comprehend is why someone who, by the end of his month-long hike, seemed to know approximately one brochure's worth of information about the Alps, would bother writing a travel book.
Consider the famous book about climbing No Picnic on Mount Kenya. Despite already being a five-star adventure story all on its own, the author knows as a travel writer he has a responsibility to his readers to explain the history and geography and culture of the place, which for an Italian soldier to do with 1940s resources was no easy task. Meanwhile in the 21st century some American wannabe with the internet in his pocket thinks he can get away with an adventure story that could be generally classed as mediocre and a writing style that feels like a college application essay -- we crave details and vivid stories, and when the best the author can provide is a glance into lives of fellow climbers who by all accounts lead far more interesting lives, the book simply falls flat.
Consider the famous book about climbing No Picnic on Mount Kenya. Despite already being a five-star adventure story all on its own, the author knows as a travel writer he has a responsibility to his readers to explain the history and geography and culture of the place, which for an Italian soldier to do with 1940s resources was no easy task. Meanwhile in the 21st century some American wannabe with the internet in his pocket thinks he can get away with an adventure story that could be generally classed as mediocre and a writing style that feels like a college application essay -- we crave details and vivid stories, and when the best the author can provide is a glance into lives of fellow climbers who by all accounts lead far more interesting lives, the book simply falls flat.
July 18, 2017
I read this in the days after we returned from a trip to the mountains and I was wondering why we didn't live closer. Jonathan Arlan decides almost on a whim to hike the Grand Traverse of the Alps in southern France from Lake Geneva, ending at the beach in Nice. Over the course of a month, he hikes 400 miles, ascending and descending many times, staying at a system of lodges that are scattered throughout his route. Along the way, he meets many other hikers that share information, pass the time on the trail with him, and in one instance, save his life by stopping him from a treacherous slide down a steep shale incline.
His writing is chronological and closely details his trip. It doesn't have much in the way of philosophical musings or a "finding myself" personal story of other similar narratives. Neither is it rich in its nature writing. I admired his achievement, and was also happily surprised to read of the many older people he met on the trail. (I have had the feeling that time is running out for me as far as my chances for adventure, yet have so many things I still want to do.)
All in all, an enjoyable read.
His writing is chronological and closely details his trip. It doesn't have much in the way of philosophical musings or a "finding myself" personal story of other similar narratives. Neither is it rich in its nature writing. I admired his achievement, and was also happily surprised to read of the many older people he met on the trail. (I have had the feeling that time is running out for me as far as my chances for adventure, yet have so many things I still want to do.)
All in all, an enjoyable read.
June 12, 2019
Memoir of author's four week walk from Geneva to Nice through the French Alps. With inadequate preparation in every way, the author describes his adventure in detail. Meeting up with fellow walkers and the one week his former room mate joins him, add interest. His narrow escapes, illness, hunger, cold, exhaustion and almost daily search for lodging are briefly engaging. This could be considered a guide of how NOT to walk the French Alps.
September 23, 2024
How does one write a book about walking 500 miles, crossing the Alps to get to the mediterranean, and even start the book discussing his childhood love of maps, and then not include a single map in the book itself? I mean, come ON.
This is otherwise rather pleasant and entertaining. But gimme a map! Geez, people!
This is otherwise rather pleasant and entertaining. But gimme a map! Geez, people!
May 31, 2017
Great travel memoir coming from someone who is a traveler but by no means a professional hiker. I loved the Interra Trinos he has and how he pours out his emotional state throughout his trek. A must read for summer travelers.
December 18, 2020
This book is enjoyable, a fun read about Jonathan Arlan who decided to hike the Alps from Geneva to Nice. He did it, hard as it was. Mr Arlan is a walker who walks all over wherever he is at the time. He had never done mountain walking, but decided he should. He chose to walk the GR5.
I am a Francophile and when I saw this book on Amazon I decided I needed to read it. Mr Arlan tells his mountain trip the way he saw it, how he felt walking, walking, walking, a large undertaking climbing mountains. He met many other walkers, walked part of the way with some, had meals with some. He writes of the countryside around, the towns, the people.
French people, some of them anyway, like to go on mountain walks. Mr Arlan tells of some families with children. One family had a small baby to young to be on a long walk. The weather didn't cooperate, long, cold days, much rain, rough accommodations. Some love mountain walking much. Mr Arlan came across a narrow valley which was very Italian, surprising him, part of Italy in France. He saw so much on his trip.
Mr Arlan's friend, Colton, joined Jonathan for a week. Colton is a photographer, brought a large camera with many lenses, took many pictures. Mr Arlan had only a phone camera. The trip took him a month, four hundred miles. Many do this trip much faster.
Mr Arlan comments on how so many older folks hike. They are much better than he. He has had to step aside to let them pass. He meets three older women, late sixties to early seventies who seemed to be so much fun. Mary asked him to hide with them. He was afraid he would hold them back.
Jonathan was born and raised in Kansas, Great Plains. Now he was walking in the mountains, staying in refuges particularity for walkers. Once in awhile, he and others treat themselves to a hotel and restaurant. The southern Alps are hotter, dryer, and emptier than the northern Alps. But it rained much along the trip.
Jonathan is almost killed sliding down a mountain. His companion walker saved his life. Jonathan carries two poles all during his trip to help him move along. He also carries a book to give him directions.
As the trip comes to an end, Mr Arlan is excited to be able to see the Mediterranean. In the last few days, he rises early, rushes through the towns, across mountains and lakes to get to Nice, to get to the sea, to wade into it, to go further and further. Tired of the mountains, he wants the sea, and is happy to see and enjoy it.
I enjoyed my vicarious trip to the French Alps. I wouldn't be able to do it. Thanks Mr Arlan for doing it for me.
I am a Francophile and when I saw this book on Amazon I decided I needed to read it. Mr Arlan tells his mountain trip the way he saw it, how he felt walking, walking, walking, a large undertaking climbing mountains. He met many other walkers, walked part of the way with some, had meals with some. He writes of the countryside around, the towns, the people.
French people, some of them anyway, like to go on mountain walks. Mr Arlan tells of some families with children. One family had a small baby to young to be on a long walk. The weather didn't cooperate, long, cold days, much rain, rough accommodations. Some love mountain walking much. Mr Arlan came across a narrow valley which was very Italian, surprising him, part of Italy in France. He saw so much on his trip.
Mr Arlan's friend, Colton, joined Jonathan for a week. Colton is a photographer, brought a large camera with many lenses, took many pictures. Mr Arlan had only a phone camera. The trip took him a month, four hundred miles. Many do this trip much faster.
Mr Arlan comments on how so many older folks hike. They are much better than he. He has had to step aside to let them pass. He meets three older women, late sixties to early seventies who seemed to be so much fun. Mary asked him to hide with them. He was afraid he would hold them back.
Jonathan was born and raised in Kansas, Great Plains. Now he was walking in the mountains, staying in refuges particularity for walkers. Once in awhile, he and others treat themselves to a hotel and restaurant. The southern Alps are hotter, dryer, and emptier than the northern Alps. But it rained much along the trip.
Jonathan is almost killed sliding down a mountain. His companion walker saved his life. Jonathan carries two poles all during his trip to help him move along. He also carries a book to give him directions.
As the trip comes to an end, Mr Arlan is excited to be able to see the Mediterranean. In the last few days, he rises early, rushes through the towns, across mountains and lakes to get to Nice, to get to the sea, to wade into it, to go further and further. Tired of the mountains, he wants the sea, and is happy to see and enjoy it.
I enjoyed my vicarious trip to the French Alps. I wouldn't be able to do it. Thanks Mr Arlan for doing it for me.
October 24, 2024
I enjoyed the detailed that the Author gave regarding his route and the specific locations he climbed and refuges he stayed at throughout his journey.
December 8, 2020
Made you feel as though you were there. The description of new and ongoing friendships made on the walk made it all the more real. I spent the time switching between the book and google maps to get a better flavour of the walk and the scenery involved. Very enjoyable.
June 5, 2019
A very easy to read book. The author is a hoot! He is obviously a well read and extensive traveler but hiking , not so much. Yes he complains often about aches and pains and the shitty weather but the reader gets used to it as it's part of his personality. Towards the end of his journey he is contemplating whether to ride the final miles on a bus or to walk it. I had to laugh out loud at his thoughts. " I am a quitter by nature. I always find the easy way out even if it's extra work. I avoid challenges. I have no real interest in "pushing myself", in "broadening my horizons". The path of least resistance has always been my favorite path". You have to read the book to see if he chooses the bus or to walk. I kinda think I would be similar to him when on a long trek with incessant worries and weather complaints. Good book! I do wish it had photos as he is always talking about taking pictures. But you can see a few on his website. They are stunningly beautiful. I mean these ARE the French Alps!!
September 15, 2018
I like "walking" travel stories (Levison Wood's Walking the Nile, Bruce Feiler's Walking the Bible and Rory Stewart's Old Silk Road come to mind). Those and others are observational adventure; this one is, the first part at least, more a stream of consciousness (debates within himself: Should I really be doing this? Should I turn back?) The trail is popular and well worn: "I don't understand this obsession many French people have with walking in the mountains." There's myriad of convoluted offshoots, many refuge huts, confusing signage, small towns, hotels. There's pain, sweat, exhaustion, dense fog, lightning, thunder, rocks, mud, bad drinking water, barfing. There's no map here to help visualize the complexity of it all. (Curious? Google GR5 Trail.) Also, his walk is not all as a loner; there's chance meetings, commiserations, pleasures, sharing. Thanks, Jonathan, for bringing me along (happily metaphorically).
October 13, 2020
The author describes his month walking from Lake Geneva to Nice along a ridge of the French Alps. Apparently, this is a popular thing to do for Europeans and especially the French, and there are frequent places along the way for hikers to spend the night which can range from a bare hut out of the rain with some basic food provided, to bed and breakfasts, to hostels, to a night spent with a family and sharing their dinner. There are interesting descriptions of the experience as well as occasionally hilarious observations. The author seemingly decided to do this without much preparation or even a careful reading of his guidebook, and at times certain death or severe bodily harm seems to be in the offing! The book has a certain charm!
February 5, 2017
This book was really entertaining. The author, a novice hiker in the beginning, writes honestly and humorously about being totally unprepared for such a long walk, and about the pain and joy he discovers on his way through the French Alps. His descriptions of the mountains and his fellow walkers make you feel like you're right there with him. More than just an account of a lengthy hike, though, the book is an inspiring look at the meaning of adventure for the none-too-adventurous. A great read!
November 7, 2017
Well-written
This book is an excellent account of a walking journey through the Alps. The author makes the reader feel as if one is walking along with him, highlighting the good and awful. This is not a travel look about the Alps, but about the journey itself and how it affected and changed the author. I would recommend it.
This book is an excellent account of a walking journey through the Alps. The author makes the reader feel as if one is walking along with him, highlighting the good and awful. This is not a travel look about the Alps, but about the journey itself and how it affected and changed the author. I would recommend it.
February 9, 2019
Of course I really liked it. It has: Kansas City references (the author was born and raised here; plus his great-uncle is Larry "Fats" Goldberg of Kansas City and New York, the famous (in the '80's) diet author), adventure, challenge and humor.
Fun little book--hope to see more from this author.
Fun little book--hope to see more from this author.
October 12, 2020
Exciting walk across the Alps
Interesting trip on the GT5. The author describes it well - sometimes you can feel the pain and rain! I would have enjoyed more details as to what was seen and the huts he stayed in. I have been to the Swiss Alps and cannot imagine walking across them. So quite a feat to do this trip. Recommend reading this book if you enjoy travel books.
Interesting trip on the GT5. The author describes it well - sometimes you can feel the pain and rain! I would have enjoyed more details as to what was seen and the huts he stayed in. I have been to the Swiss Alps and cannot imagine walking across them. So quite a feat to do this trip. Recommend reading this book if you enjoy travel books.
March 12, 2018
Page turning
A great read. I was with him all the way. As a walker and wild camper myself, albeit at slightly lower heights, I felt like I'd been with him along the way. Highly recommended for armchair travellers as well as active walkers.
A great read. I was with him all the way. As a walker and wild camper myself, albeit at slightly lower heights, I felt like I'd been with him along the way. Highly recommended for armchair travellers as well as active walkers.
April 3, 2019
The best written book on the GR5
I have read all of the books available in English on the GR5 and this is the best written. I am planning to do it this summer and I may use some p
Of the paragraphs (with attribution) in my blog.
I have read all of the books available in English on the GR5 and this is the best written. I am planning to do it this summer and I may use some p
Of the paragraphs (with attribution) in my blog.
June 9, 2017
Great book! I love travel writing and Mountain Lines definitely left me with an intense case of wanderlust. I highly recommend this book and look forward to the authors future work.
October 28, 2017
Felt like I was hiking and feeling his joy and pain, but would have liked less pain and more observations.
October 14, 2020
Super pleasant. It's a month long hike in which nothing much happens, but the author has a good sense of humor and captures the experience well.
October 27, 2020
I really liked this walking memoir. From reading the book, I almost wanted to take on the same adventure. The area he walked sounds beautiful and the people he met were so interesting.
October 20, 2020
Small minded and whiny
He wrote too much about body aches and pains and not enough about the sights, natural history and history of the places he walked through.
He wrote too much about body aches and pains and not enough about the sights, natural history and history of the places he walked through.
March 8, 2025
I was really looking forward to reading this book, and then when I received it and read quite a bit of it I couldn't wait for the book to end. What bothered me the most about it was the RIDICULOUS amount of similes that were used. They are totally unnecessary to get the point across. I call them filler. This book could have been even shorter without them, which would have worked for me. If one is a true writer, similes are not needed.
August 24, 2025
What a delightful book by a charming writer. While full of curiosity and open to adventure, Jonathan Arlan is only moderately equipped to plan ahead, whether for appropriate equipment for his trek or in securing accommodations for a night's stay. He is disarmingly frank about his strategic shortcomings, which only adds to the interest. His descriptions of alp walkers whose paths he crosses and recrosses on his long march are sharp, generous, and fascinating.
February 10, 2018
This was a very enjoyable read. The author does a good job of brining you along with him to feel his successes and frustrations as well as letting you decide how you would react to the same situation. He definitely made me want to begin planning (at least) a major outdoor adventure.
April 3, 2023
What a beautiful journey through the French alps. Having done a few multi day hikes myself I found myself carried away by the idea of this hike, although I can’t imagine hiking for over a month. What an experience.
September 10, 2023
great adventure
The author presents his journey I. Such a way that you feel as if you are with him. You feel his emotions as they change with every step, rocks hills, pathways and valleys along with the characters he meets. We’ll dove. !!
The author presents his journey I. Such a way that you feel as if you are with him. You feel his emotions as they change with every step, rocks hills, pathways and valleys along with the characters he meets. We’ll dove. !!
November 21, 2024
A very enjoyable easy read. Some may say that the book could have been a lot more interesting. It did not include a lot of history or detailed descriptions of nature. I was ok with that. I enjoyed the simplicity of the book. I pictured myself enjoyin gthe outdoors and the magnificent scenery.
November 16, 2021
French Alps
I am traveling the world by book. I thank the author for sharing his experience. I didn't know that this was a route to test yourself.
I am traveling the world by book. I thank the author for sharing his experience. I didn't know that this was a route to test yourself.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 35 reviews