Joe Yonan, food editor of the Washington Post, shares his love of beans in 125 often innovative recipes. These recipes include his own take on standards such as bean dips (Harissa-Roasted Carrot and White Bean Dip stands out), bean salads (updating the traditional Three Bean Salad), and bean soups (dals and fuls join a variety of chilis and baked beans). Hand foods (sandwiches, burgers, wraps, and tacos), casseroles, pasta, rice, drinks, and desserts round out the collection. He sometimes bases his recipes on restaurant meals he’s enjoyed (Red Lentil Ful with Sumac-Roasted Cauliflower), and sometimes finds inspiration in word play (Cannellini Cannelloni). Throughout, Yonan writes with a sense of humor as he provides information on the various types of beans, how to prepare both dried and canned beans, and strategies for dealing with the discomfort some may experience when adding beans to their diet. The book includes a list of sources for both beans and spices as well as cooking timetables. This is an eclectic collection of recipes, where Israeli, Nigerian, Southern American, and Cuban recipes follow one on the heels of another. Because of the international nature of the recipes, some cooks may need a bit of shopping to collect all the spices. Photos are sprinkled throughout the book, but many recipes do not include visuals. The recipes are well laid out, each with an introduction giving background on the recipe’s origins, straight forward directions, and an organized list of ingredients.
I really enjoyed Yonan's witty writing, and his enthusiasm for beans shines through on every page. This book deals only with pulses (so no fresh green beans included). Perhaps those will feature in a later cookbook. I love Indian and Middle Eastern food, so dals and other lentil dishes are not new to me. These types of dishes are included in this book, but stand beside many others I have not previously tried. I particularly loved Yonan's story of coming up with the name "Cannellini Cannelloni" before developing the recipe to go with it, and my husband and I both enjoyed this very filling dish.
I'm definitely looking forward to some more cooking from this book!
Parts of this review first appeared in Library Journal.