After reading The Rise in full, I have mixed feelings about the content. Though I applaud Samuelson's efforts to bring attention to the diversity of Black food and its vast influence in America, as well as showcase a number of Black chefs and food professionals in this country, in the end I felt that it didn't quite come together in execution.
Before elaborating, I wanted to dispel a misconception about this book that I've seen put forth in a few of the reviews I read - namely the idea that this volume compiles recipes from the numerous chefs featured in the book. This is not the case. The recipes are all Samuelson's (with Yewande Komolafe and Tamie Cook) inspired by the featured chefs. While there's nothing wrong with this - in fact I find it to be an incredibly cool way to conceptualize a cookbook - many people seem to be under the impression that this book is something that it isn't and never claimed to be.
Now that that's out of he way, I want to cover a few of my gripes about the book, most of which concern the editing. I'm aware that my practice of reading cookbooks in their entirety, as if they were a novel or a memoir, is not the way most approach a cookbook. That being said, I can't be the only one, and I'm always disappointed when I come away from a cookbook with the feeling that it could have been so good, if only it had been a bit more consistent, if only the essay portions and the recipe portions had been a bit better integrated, if only it hadn't repeated itself as much. In short, if only it had had a bit more editing. Unfortunately, that's how I felt whilst reading this book.
The Rise contains parts written by (at least) four different people - Marcus Samuelson writes the introductions to all the chapters and recipes; he, along with Yewande Komolafe and Tamie Cook are credited with recipe development; and the essays are penned by Osayi Endolyn - and it feels that way. On one page an essay will introduce a particular chef and provide many details about their life, influences, and food history; the next page contains an introduction to a recipe which often repeats a number of the exact same facts. Though this won't be apparent to the majority of readers who are merely dipping in and out of the book, to me it became a bit frustrating. It often felt as though Samuelson and Endolyn wrote their parts separately and then just stuck them in the same book without bothering to read them in conjunction with each other. Additionally, the essays themselves were a bit clunky. I often found myself rereading sentences trying to figure out to what or whom the essayist was referring.
Another concern I had was that the contents of chapters felt a bit arbitrary. The first four chapters, which contain the main recipes and profiles of chefs, are titled "Next," "Remix," "Migration," and "Legacy," and are ostensibly divided up as such. However, there is so much overlap between the intended content of each chapter that it felt as if most of the chefs/recipes could have been included in any of the chapters without feeling out of place. The final chapter, "Origin" was more of a reference component and was split into five sections - "Spices, Spice Blends, and Powders," "Wet Pantry," "Flours, Grains, and Staples," "Nuts, Nut Variations, and Seeds," and "More." Within these sections, I really couldn't figure out what the organizational system was, and would have preferred if everything had been separated into just two sections - "Glossary" and "Basic Recipes" for instance - with the contents of each in alphabetical order.
My only minor complaint unrelated to editing choices is in regards to the accessibility of the recipes and it almost seems unavoidable. As other reviewers have mentioned, the average home-cook could run into some issues with the recipes; a few seem overly complicated, but primarily the difficulties stem from the unfortunate fact that many West African/Caribbean/traditionally Black ingredients simply aren't carried in most supermarkets. While this is a symptom of exactly what it is that this book is trying to combat - the erasure and disregard of Black chefs and food in America - the fact remains that unless you live in a large metropolitan area, there's a good chance you will need to order ingredients online to complete a large portion of the recipes in this book. Samuelson frequently mentions that you can find an ingredient at "your local West African market" which, while a nice idea, just isn't realistic for a lot of people - a quick google search informed me that I would have to drive at least an hour to find any sort of African Market. That said, if you have the time and access to ingredients, I would definitely recommend trying some of the recipes included in this book - they all look and sound delicious.
All in all there were a lot of things I liked about the book - the pictures were beautiful, the food sounded lovely, there were a number of new ingredients and processes to learn about, and I came away with knowledge about quite a few chefs I'd not heard of before - but the editing really let the content down, and left me a little underwhelmed.