What makes for a surfing life? With a blaze of groundbreaking performances and a list of titles claimed from all over the world to his name, Australian world champion surfer Nat Young might know. His seventieth birthday inspired some reflection on exactly that, and on the waves and characters that have marked his remarkable life—Miki Dora and Midget Farrelly to name a few. But surfing for Nat Young—and so many like-minded surfers—has never been about winning, never been about the sport. It’s a calling, an endless quest, a philosophy, a religion. Most of all, surfing is a way of life that has underpinned his other identities as board shaper, film producer, writer, raconteur, conservationist, activist, pilot, husband, and father. Candid and wryly observed, Church of the Open Sky explores what it means to be a surfer, with a collection of true stories of Nat’s surfing life—and the friends, foes, and heroes he’s met along the way.
Some interesting stories but really for hardcore surf history fans only. Better off reading Nat's Nat and that's that for the best yarns and Nat's interesting life story.
It was interesting read about some of Aussie surfing, I think the write up was a bit misleading, I was expecting to read about the connections that experienced surfers have with the ocean as food for the soul rather than a sport. It was mostly about Nats surfing friends and what they all got up too. I guess more of a biography. Cool to read if you were part of that surf scene and knew them personally.