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Menlove: The Life of John Menlove Edwards
Physical description; 347 p., [16] p. of plates : ill. ; 24 cm. Subjects; Edwards, John Menlove 1910-1958. Mountaineers — Great Britain — Biography.
- GenresMountaineeringBiography
256 pages, Hardcover
First published June 1, 1985
106 people want to read
About the author
Jim Perrin
36 books10 followers Jim Perrin is an English rock climber and travel writer.
Perrin has lived in Wales since the age of 17. Before turning to writing, he worked in Cwm Pennant as a shepherd. As a writer, he has made regular contributions to a number of newspapers and climbing magazines. As a climber, he has developed new routes, as well as making solo ascents of a number of established routes.
He has won the Boardman Tasker prize twice, first for Menlove (1985), his biography of John Menlove Edwards, and again as a joint winner (alongside Andy Cave's Learning to Breathe) for The Villain (2005), a biography of Don Whillans.
For many years he has contributed mountaineering obituaries for The Guardian (see, for example, the recent contribution on Brede Arkless). He has six children by six different partners, one, Will, also a talented climber, took his own life aged 24.
Perrin has lived in Wales since the age of 17. Before turning to writing, he worked in Cwm Pennant as a shepherd. As a writer, he has made regular contributions to a number of newspapers and climbing magazines. As a climber, he has developed new routes, as well as making solo ascents of a number of established routes.
He has won the Boardman Tasker prize twice, first for Menlove (1985), his biography of John Menlove Edwards, and again as a joint winner (alongside Andy Cave's Learning to Breathe) for The Villain (2005), a biography of Don Whillans.
For many years he has contributed mountaineering obituaries for The Guardian (see, for example, the recent contribution on Brede Arkless). He has six children by six different partners, one, Will, also a talented climber, took his own life aged 24.
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Displaying 1 - 3 of 3 reviews
August 17, 2024
Probably one of the more obscure and best written encapsulations of the emotions of climbing, rowing and life ever written.
Beg or borrow a copy - or just spring for the collectors price as it is an essential part of any climbing library. Jim Perrin did a great job of collecting and discussing Edwards work, without getting in the way of the Author's challenging life and his brilliant writing.
Menlove Edwards is one of those rare writers who can encapsulate more in a sentence than many manage in a whole book.
Beg or borrow a copy - or just spring for the collectors price as it is an essential part of any climbing library. Jim Perrin did a great job of collecting and discussing Edwards work, without getting in the way of the Author's challenging life and his brilliant writing.
Menlove Edwards is one of those rare writers who can encapsulate more in a sentence than many manage in a whole book.
October 4, 2022
Jim Perrin
This is a tough read - I think it took me around 6 months, but the painstaking research by Jim Perrin is meticulous and academic. It reads more like a postgraduate thesis than a biography but it does a marvellous job of ensuring that we can all learn from the astonishing, exemplary yet very sad life of Menlove. His climbing achievements were outstanding and his first ascents in North Wales, often achieved in appalling weather, include many which are considered classic. Flying Buttress and Spiral stairs are gems of the highest quality - I have soloed them both more than three times in big boots and can attest to their creative standard. As you start spiral stairs, moving left from the Corner you experience tremendous exposure high above the Llanberis pass yet the moves are all technically sound - it is a route of genius. Western slabs on Dinas Mot at VS is significantly harder as is the classic Bow shaped Slab on Cloggy at HVS - all brilliant climbs. Perrin's narrative about Menlove's life is mixed in with Menlove's own writings, prose, letters and poetry and provides a detailed and permanent record of the life and torments of this lonely, gay climber/psychiatrist, conscientious objector during the War as he sadly becomes more isolated, lonely and ultimately falls into depression leading to his tragic suicide. Homosexuality was illegal in his life time of course but there is much relevance for us all in the 21st century. Had he been able to come out he might have led a much happier and open life but despite the restrictions of the time he still made an marvelous contribution to climbing and literature which Perrin has saved and recorded for us all.
This is a tough read - I think it took me around 6 months, but the painstaking research by Jim Perrin is meticulous and academic. It reads more like a postgraduate thesis than a biography but it does a marvellous job of ensuring that we can all learn from the astonishing, exemplary yet very sad life of Menlove. His climbing achievements were outstanding and his first ascents in North Wales, often achieved in appalling weather, include many which are considered classic. Flying Buttress and Spiral stairs are gems of the highest quality - I have soloed them both more than three times in big boots and can attest to their creative standard. As you start spiral stairs, moving left from the Corner you experience tremendous exposure high above the Llanberis pass yet the moves are all technically sound - it is a route of genius. Western slabs on Dinas Mot at VS is significantly harder as is the classic Bow shaped Slab on Cloggy at HVS - all brilliant climbs. Perrin's narrative about Menlove's life is mixed in with Menlove's own writings, prose, letters and poetry and provides a detailed and permanent record of the life and torments of this lonely, gay climber/psychiatrist, conscientious objector during the War as he sadly becomes more isolated, lonely and ultimately falls into depression leading to his tragic suicide. Homosexuality was illegal in his life time of course but there is much relevance for us all in the 21st century. Had he been able to come out he might have led a much happier and open life but despite the restrictions of the time he still made an marvelous contribution to climbing and literature which Perrin has saved and recorded for us all.
September 22, 2016
I normally am a big fan of Jim Perrin's writing, but for some reason this one didn't click with me. Perhaps because, despite knowing very little of the man, I had this on a to-read list for ages. Menlove led a troubled life, suffering mental health problems and eventually committed suicide. The book does serve to detail the career and life of a climbing pioneer though.
Displaying 1 - 3 of 3 reviews