We first traveled to Yellowstone in 2008 and found it to be a magical place - and really, between the geysers (we hiked three (?) miles into to wait and watch for Lone Star to erupt- which, after three hours of some chilly waiting, it did - and there were only 17 people there to see it, as opposed to the hundreds on the boardwalk to watch Old Faithful); the wildlife (a late afternoon hiking in to take pictures and on an outcropping overlooking a small lake when we espied a grizzly coming down the slope ahead of us, we promptly 180’d only to encounter a full grown bison on the trail between us and our car (fortunately there was a copse of trees to the left that allowed us to detour around him); we also witnessed a bull elk shepherding his harem through the buildings at Mammoth; hearing elk bugling is something else); our first morning there, my wife urging me to hurry up and shower so we could head out to see wildlife, then to see from our window in the Yellowstone Hotel, a herd of bison ambling through the parking lot; and who at Yellowstone hasn’t experienced the end of day traffic jam with bison crowded on the road (they know exactly what they are doing); hiking Mt Washburn and rounding the switchback encountering wind so strong my wife had to hold onto my backpack to avoid being blow away; and snow - which we weren’t completely prepared for - in September.
We talked for years about being able to visit in winter and we were able to do so in December 2021; and found it to be even more magical! Snowshoeing for the first time, seeing the snow and rime on trees, and the fortunate experience to see a pack of 9 wolves feeding on a bison carcass close enough (but not too close) to get some great photos!
And reading Essential Yellowstone was preparation for this winter trip. (I was able to read the section on Winter Experiences before the trip.) I like Michael’s conversational writing style. I felt like we were sitting side by side at the bar exchanging hiking and camping stories.
And his book is chock full of history, geology, and his encounters with nature. I really like his sense of communing with nature, especially being in remote areas far from the madding crowd, something I’ve experienced on hikes but even more so at night in deserted places doing astrophotography.
A good read for anyone interested in Yellowstone or in hiking stories.