East Along the Equator: A Journey up the Congo and into Zaire

by Helen Winternitz

In this brilliant mix of political journalism and travel writing, Helen Winternitz and fellow journalist Timothy Phelps witness what few Westerners life in the ecologically rich but financially impoverished American-backed dictatorship of Zaire, the former Belgian Congo.

Genres: Travel, Africa, Nonfiction, Democratic Republic Of The Congo, Memoir

274 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1987

Reviews

[Jean · Rating 4 out of 5]

tough travel in Africa by white folk

[Daniel Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

Although this book was written in the 90s, I found it extremely informative regarding the history of the DRC or what was then Zaire. The author does a wonderful job weaving tidbits of politics, culture, language, and history into the story of her epic journey up the Congo River to Kisangani and then on land to Goma in Eastern DRC. As someone who has read a handful of books on the Congo, I must say that I found this extremely enjoyable and I learned a ton of new information. If you're looking for a bit of adventure while also learning a great deal about the Congo, I highly recommend this book.

[Justin · Rating 3 out of 5]

★★★☆☆ An interesting travelogue written by reporter Helen Winternitz, who with her partner, travels up the Congo River from Kinshasa inwards through what was then Zaire (the book was published in 1987), overland into Ituri, and then south through Beni and a plane flight back. The account is interesting from the perspective of the people they connect with, though to be honest, most of the book is written from a Westerner’s perch aboard the various boats and vehicles they hitch a ride on, and the places they stay. Informative interludes on the recent history of the country up to 1987, and the economic and societal destruction brought down upon the country by Mobutu. The book is not very long, and takes place in three distinct legs of the journey: the boat ride up the Congo River to the point where the river begins to arc south, the overland journey across mud-caked roads to the Ituri Forest, and after their flight back to Kinshasa their misadventures with Mobutu’s intelligence service. I did enjoy the second section quite a bit, as they traveled across roads and towns in the Ituri province that I had visited back in 2007. However, for all of the history and description of their travels, the book lacks much introspection, and there is very little thought put into what drove them to take that particular trek, and what they learned from it, if anything. So while the historical aspects of the book are quite engaging, and for all of the detailing of their struggles, their account falls flat in the end and fails to contextualize their experience against the backdrop of an incredibly unique country.

[Curtis Penner · Rating 4 out of 5]

It is a good book. Whiny? Yes. Good background about the corruption within Zaire (now Congo).

[Dogsandbooks]

Donated to UUFD 12/19

[Andrea · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating account of the author's trip through what was then called Zaire -- now the Democratic Republic of the Congo -- from Kinshasa, near the Atlantic Coast, to Goma, in the East African Rift Valley. Great, vivid descriptions of the people, landscapes, dense forest, and amazing animals of that country abound, sending me to Google to look up all kinds of things. For instance, after reading a wild description of the call of the hyrax, I found this link on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGEMg... Unbelievable! The author and her friend Tim tried to get the inside story on what was going in the incredibly resource-rich country that was so incredibly impoverished due to government corruption, succeeding enough to get themselves arrested by the government police. The author is unsparing in her criticism of Western interference in the region, from Belgium's colonial atrocities to the US's role in supporting a "kleptocracy," and it's hard to disagree. Ms. Winternitz brings to life a country both politically horrible and culturally and environmentally rich -- I was totally enchanted by the description of such a marvelous place, and I wish I could go there.

[Cascade · Rating 4 out of 5]

Read this because there's mention of the Bankses (my gr-gr grandparents) ... But only one, in reference to their witness of the rubber trade atrocities ... And then enjoyed the travelogue. Wish I was reading as a reviewer, though, because I would have asked for more reflection on what they accomplished by trudging on to reach their designated endpoint - basically, they got there, then caught a plane ASAP to rewind 2 months in a 3 hour flight. Was it worth it? Why or why not? Now I need to look back at the politics since this was written 25+ years ago.

[Robert · Rating 2 out of 5]

Picked this up when it was first published because I myself spent a total of 4 years in (then-) Zaire, and I had read other books about travelers and explorers on the river. A bit superficial but it's always interesting to read a first hand eyewitness account even when it falls short of meeting hopes and expectations.

[Pangolin · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this - it's gives a great history of and (at the time) current snapshot of Zaire and the mess that is now called DRC. Interesting characters, happenings and problems. If you like Africa non-fiction, this is a good read.

[Jennifer · Rating 4 out of 5]

Atlantic Monthly Press used to have a series called Traveler books, of which this is one, and they were all fantastic.

[Starr · Rating 4 out of 5]

Older travel narrative about a journalist traveling along the Congo River. Fascinating how this country has managed to be screwed by foreigners and their own for such a long time.