Bare Essentials: Bras: Construction and Pattern Design for Lingerie Design

by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks

The third edition of this book introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting and Manipulation Method. This method is a mathematical approach to determining measurements for drafting a custom bra. Jennifer Fairbanks approaches pattern manipulation and design unlike previous methods. Developing the methods used in this book was not only challenging, but it was also thorough. This third edition of Bare Essentials: Bras introduces drafting for torso shape and height.The Bare Essentials series is an invaluable resource for anyone entering into the field of lingerie design and intimate apparel. This volume summarizes the basics of bra design, from sewing and construction to drafting and pattern grading; introducing these subjects in a manageable capacity.Bare Essentials: Bras is organized into three main sections based on the complexities of the information provided, each section introduces more complicated drafting methods.The first section of this book teaches how to construct a bra utilizing a pattern that is included in the back of the book. There are also simple pattern changes introduced in this section, including changing the elastic width, construction methods and general fitting changes.The intermediate section of Bare Essentials: Bras explains more complicated drafting manipulations including creating a nursing bra, mastectomy bras, padded and demi cut bras.The advanced section of this book, introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting method to create a band, then a cup based on 5 measurements and the wire. The draft creates a simple 3-piece cup to determine the volume required for a cup. The sloper creation chapter takes this 3-piece cup and redefines how to create custom designs based on this 3-piece cup sloper. The advanced section concludes with grading instructions for both hand drafting and computer drafting. This book is thorough in grading for both cup size and wire size. Patterns for this book can be downloaded at Porcelynne.com. They are located as an option for the book. These are the basics that you will learn: - Construction methods using elastics and stretch fabrics- Manipulation of basic patterns- Pattern drafting from measurements- Sloper creation and complex pattern manipulation- Developing grade rules and grading patterns

Genres: Sewing, Fashion, Crafts, Nonfiction, Reference

282 pages, Paperback

Published June 29, 2019

Reviews

[Tububa · Rating 2 out of 5]

This is a review of the first edition (2012). I have not read the second or third editions. The book information on Amazon suggests some of the problems might have been corrected.

I found this book to have helpful diagrams, but the text... you might as well avoid the text, because if you understood the diagrams, the text will take all your understanding away and throw you in a swamp of confusion. There are several places where crucial terms are misplaced, like "cup" is used instead of "cradle", or where technical terms are used ambiguously, like "height" used to refer to some measurement you are supposed to have taken earlier, but without referring precisely to which measurement it was. The book certainly does not meet the standard of an instructional book on pattern drafting, regardless of how much Matthews-Fairbanks knows about production sewing or bra construction.

Even with the diagrams, there were a few spots where I felt a bit at sea because the drafting/pattern modification techniques were new to me, but not well-explained. I also expected a bit more detail on certain cup styles that were completely absent from this book, like the darted cup.

[Ruth · Rating 5 out of 5]

I learned SO much from this book.
Obviously, I'm going to have to re-read the entire thing while I'm in my basement: Doing and reading, instead of just reading. But that's how I learn this stuff. I read ALL THE THINGS, and buy ALL THE SUPPLIES, then about a year later, I re-read while doing at the same time, then it sticks.