“Depending on how you feel, a given drink can be either a lifesaver or a vile poison,” According to longtime cocktail industry professional John deBary, “Depending on how you feel, a given drink can be either a lifesaver or a vile poison.” With his debut full-length publication, the bar director at David Chang’s Momofuku restaurant group wants to make sure aspiring cocktail-makers experience much more of the former result. And, just as importantly, to have fun doing it. Peppered with lovably snarky asides, unapologetically hilarious footnotes (“I’ll be the first to tell you that I’m a pretentious dick”), and endearing personal anecdotes from deBary’s many years drink-slinging at the hallowed New York City cocktail den PDT, the book is a playfully energetic, (mostly) non-judgmental guide to developing and polishing one’s home drink-making skills. A wise, wacky, and ultimately indispensable crash-course.
deBary writes that his target audience doesn’t “know the difference between an Old Fashioned and a gin and tonic.” And the book does include handy primers on the distillation process and flavor profiles of the world’s most popular spirits, thoughtful lists of essential bar equipment and techniques, and helpful insights into “the most elemental” of cocktails like the Daquiri and Manhattan. But Drink What You Want works equally great as a refresher course for veteran drink slingers (especially those of us who, either intentionally or not, might be spending a little less time behind the bar these days), with dozens of recipes highlighting many of deBary’s most deliciously inventive concoctions. Some objectively delicious favorites include the fruity, buttery, and all-around decadent tiki masterpiece The Shark; the frothy, savory Sunrise Bloody Mary based on the whiskey-fueled Japanese version of the brunch staple; and, for truly adventurous sobriety defiers, deBary’s signature Weed Punch, featuring cannabis-infused absinthe. Cleverly and conveniently divided by mood – Feeling Fancy, Feeling Lazy, Feeling Desperate, etc. – there are perfect drinks for virtually every social situation, from classy dinner parties and family holiday dinners, to desolate times when your pantry includes “ketchup, shitty beer, and little else” and a strenuous night at the in-laws (including a genuinely helpful flow chart to better one’s odds of surviving such a situation).
“After reading this book,” deBary explains, “I want you to have the knowledge, skills, and confidence to make drinks on your own.” But even if you somehow do not gain any valuable mixological insights (spoiler: you will), Drink What You Want is worth indulging just for the inevitable laughs.