At best this is an informative, though cheerily misleading, call to discuss how we in the West raise animals for consumption. At worst it is filled with falsehoods, logical misdirection and supercilious moralising.
I believe that Matthew Evans comes to this book with genuine intentions. He has the tone of your didactic homespun uncle at the Christmas dinner table—opinionated and impassioned from the lunchtime beers. You get the sense that Uncle Matt would really like to bring those at one end of the spectrum—the vegan/vegos—to chat and commune with those at the other end of the spectrum—the animal slaughterers who are ok with keeping animals caged and as a unit of production akin to coal or shoes. He wants everyone at the table together and for this he should be lauded.
He is at his best when he is investigating what animal production consists of, the production cycle and explaining the definitive process of how animals are raised, killed and sold. He is good when he is demonstrating his years of experience as to why tenderness versus taste is an important consideration in meat, or why properly aged meat matters. He’s also on track when he discusses some potential solutions to the issues he raises, such as regulation/legislation.
In terms of where he is either mis-directed or entirely off the rails, here I go:
Inconsistent moralising
For a guy that has spent the last 5 years writing a book on meat, and the meat industry, a guy who has farmed and slaughtered animals for 15 years, I was surprised that his end conclusion was that basically he was right all along and all of society should be more like him. Call me naïve, but I thought some of his conclusions would be along the lines of: I was at this point before the book and now I’ve changed my ethics to over here. Basically, his beginning is his end: he farms animals, kills them, feels a tad bad about the killing but in the end is ok about it, wants everyone to eat better-raised animals, wants more open meat industry so that the worst aspects disappear, but he doesn’t think veganism is much use and isn’t too fussed about the climate effects of the meat industry. At one point he says “My view is that it’s very hard to get people to change behaviour…” and yet he’s just gone through all this killing, all this climate change consideration, chatting about vegetarianism etc and surprisingly finds that his point of view was right all along…quelle surprise.
Continuing with moralising, his reasoning here is also faulty in that he doesn’t discriminate logically between animal death. If he kills a pig, that’s ok, but if a female sow is killed as she gives birth to piglets, that is bad. To many people, a dead pig is a dead pig, so his drawn line really just shows that he’s not so much evidence-based (a line he’s pushing in this book), but rather him pushing his own cart again.
General mathematical misunderstanding/misdirection
A couple of times in the book Evans quotes if everyone went vegan our CO2 output would drop by “only” 10%. Hello, what?! 10% is huge. 10% is the equivalent of saying to nearly 800 million humans: we’re cancelling your carbon debt forever. If we could eliminate 10% of our CO2 emissions at a stroke, that would be the greatest achievement released in the 21st century. Evans not only misses this point but misdirects as if to say we should ignore it. Some of his arguments against veganism are more compelling, but this is woefully wrong.
Cognitive dissonance
Evans argues that while scientific research shows it takes about 10kg of plant to create 1kg of animal that eats it, it is still better to farm animals because it works on his farm in Tasmania and therefore it is better his way. He tries to use the logic of specificity of Tasmania’s land being mostly arable for ruminant animals but misses the point entirely that the scientists are speaking at the top level, that hundreds of acres of the Amazon are cleared every minute to grow food for cows. Evans either doesn’t grasp, or doesn’t know, that he is wrong on the large scale rather than his micro-scale and that generally it’s (much) easier to get calories from plants than animals.
Strawman arguments
He routinely compares non-relevant concepts, like arguing that if you don’t like cows, you also shouldn’t like golf or cars. This is preposterous. The amount of space on Earth for golf courses is miniscule compared to that dedicated to raising animals. These arguments aren’t helpful because if any of us care about the environment, we should be looking at all of our climate options, but of course you focus on the most damaging first which would include transport and also animal farming (but golf would be 5 thousandth on the list).
Dumb old tropes
“The research confirms what a lot of farmers already know, but city-based citizen scientists may not understand.” This quote is in reference to going vegan. This is after Evans has explained to us that vegans are healthier, better for the environment and don’t kill as many animals as he does (even with the animals that die because of protecting crops etc). I’m not vegan, yet stuff like this made me want to drip chilli-infused lime into my eyes.
Unsound logic
He does the old trick of saying red cars are safer than blue cars, red cars are faster than green cars etc, only doing comparisons of one item at a time, rather than in aggregate. For example, he says that grass-reared animals…are amongst the more efficient producers of food energy for fossil fuel use. This is misleading in that: a) most local animals (which he continually refers to in this Australia-focussed book) aren’t grass-reared but rather are grain-fed and b) this is a bait and switch argument as if we’re really only worried about the net effect of fossil fuels which is equivalent CO2 production which is FAR worse with animals versus plants.
Another unsound logic issue is where he almost gets it right. He argues that the UK tried to protect pigs with welfare laws but had the net effect of damaging the UK’s pork industry. He quotes figures showing the ongoing decline in local pork production as an example. He was nearly right on this one. First of all, local production likely has been subject to broader market forces for decades because of closer ties to Europe. That’s the whole point of David Ricardo’s concepts of the advantage of specialisation with trade; second, this is the problem generated by unintended consequence—if the UK truly wanted to protect the pigs, they would require all pork sold to meet a certain quality.
Writing
His writing is generally pretty good. It does read as if he has dictated the book, but no one has edited it. He has passages such as where he is explaining the difficulty of inspecting big chicken farms. One sentence is simply: “On or off camera”. Hmmm, maybe the editor could have thrown in a semi-colon to the previous sentence to explain that they could not meet the CEO, on or off camera. It’s a small issue, and mostly his folksy style works with the ease of communication, but surely someone could have tidied all this up.
I did learn about the meat industry from the book. I just wish Evans did a better job of maintaining his often-times charming style, whilst being more objective and distancing his personal views from the investigation he undertakes.