The Food of Sichuan

by Fuchsia Dunlop

nan

Genres: Cookbooks, Cooking, Food, China, Nonfiction, Reference, Cuisine

496 pages, Hardcover

First published October 3, 2019

About the author

Fuchsia Dunlop is a cook and food-writer specialising in Chinese cuisine. She is the author of Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China, an account of her adventures in exploring Chinese food culture, and two critically-acclaimed Chinese cookery books, Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook, and Sichuan Cookery (published in the US as Land of Plenty).

Fuchsia writes for publications including Gourmet, Saveur, and The Financial Times. She is a regular guest on radio and television, and has appeared on shows including Gordon Ramsay’s The F-Word, NPR’s All Things Considered and The Food Programme on BBC Radio 4. She was named ‘Food Journalist of the Year’ by the British Guild of Food Writers in 2006, and has been shortlisted for three James Beard Awards. Her first book, Sichuan Cookery, won the Jeremy Round Award for best first book.

Reviews

[Aria Zhang · Rating 5 out of 5]

I typically am very skeptical of non-Asian people writing about Asian cuisine but I must take my hat off to Fuchsia. As a local Sichuaner, I can say that she is well regarded within the food circle of Chengdu, and this book was very well written. The photos of phenomenal, the recipes were truly authentic and she managed to showcase the diversity of Sichuan cuisine - no, it is NOT just spicy food and huajiao! If you're interested in Sichuan cuisine then please do give this a read.

[Alex MacMillan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sichuan cuisine has been a lockdown companion during Covid. I made the Mapo Tofu recipe (on pg. 245) at least fifty times in the past year. I recommend this cookbook to anyone who wants to learn how to use a wok, as well as anyone who wants to experience a flavor palette they have otherwise never tasted before. Imagine living your entire life without ever experiencing Italian cuisine, until you suddenly decide to go to an obscure grocery store to get the ingredients and tools to make Italian for yourself. Similarly for most Americans, the only "Chinese cuisine" available to them (or that they are aware of) are a few variants of Cantonese chicken dishes, combined with white rice and slathered in corn syrup. Thinking outside the Panda Express-sized box of how you preconceive the cuisine of 1.6 billion people is well worth the upfront investment paid at the Korean Grocery Store and on Amazon.

This book is intimidating, and not just due to the foreign tastes, tools, and ingredients. The key is to understand that the author does not expect you to be able to make most of these dishes. The most popular and do-able recipes are helpfully frontloaded in each section. Walking away with an understanding of what I consider the "core five" (pg. 146; pg. 182; pg. 245; pg. 266; pg. 346) is a triumph for any amateur to be proud of.

The author has several high quality cooking instruction vides on Youtube to get you started or pique your interest. And if you live near New York, London, or Los Angeles (or plan to visit Sichuan), Ms. Dunlop makes frequent referrals to restaurants where you can try a particularly difficult recipe from her book. - 7/10/21

[Stephen Simpson · Rating 4 out of 5]

I don't want to be overly harsh on this book; the author did good work and the presentation was nice. But I can't give five stars when plenty of other Chinese cookbooks have these recipes, and the ones that are unique to this book are not likely to be very common or popular for most American cooks.

The narrative of the book (both the prelude to the recipes and the little write-ups with the recipes) is pretty solid, so kudos for that. The photography is good. I suppose I could complain about not every recipe having a picture, but that's not really practical and the majority (I think...) do.

[Felicia · Rating 5 out of 5]

Answers questions about methods and flavors I've long wanted. The wording of directions for recipes take some getting used to for an American English reader but after a few tries I've gotten the hang of tipping ingredients into mixtures and other turns of phrase. Excellent reference and history book.

[charissa · Rating 3 out of 5]

i was flipping through this at a bookstore and wanted to buy it but ended up talking myself out of it, then literally a few days later i found it on our bookshelf at home (my sister bought it last year)! so aside from that serendipitous little moment at first i was annoyed because fuchsia is a wh*te w*man who published and profits off a book on sichuan cuisine and at face value that is upsetting because why are white people so often the authority on explaining people's cultures and why do they get to profit off of "discovering" new ideas??? but i'm less inclined to be upset about it because she did study at a culinary institute in sichuan and talks a lot about her experiences with other chinese people in the province. and also a lot of the authentic sichuan and other chinese cookbooks that my dad has are in chinese so here we are.

she also provides so much context, background, and history for sichuan cuisine, and also explains in depth the specific ingredients commonly used. for me that was interesting as i see my dad cook with these things very often but never really knew how they were made or how you'd describe their flavor profiles. i ended up making her traditional dan dan mian recipe and it was pretty good! i think it was the chili oil we had at home, but the spiciness wasn't the mala sensation i very much love but it was still a fun adventure! idk how this review for a literal cookbook was this long but overall i like it

[Reads and · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don't think a spoiler warning is needed for a cook book. Anyway I got this for Xmas from my life partner and I couldn't be happier. There are so many wonderful things to make in this cook book that it will take me years to get through them all. It will probably take the rest of my life to get right. The pictures are beautiful and the instructions are easy to follow.

Everything you would ever need to know about Sichuan Food is in this book. How to cut veggies, how to cut meat, where all the ingredients come from, etc. Bonus is that Fuchsia Dunlop often adds notes for substitutes when an item might be hard to find where you live.

If you LOVE Sichuan cuisine, this book is for you.

[Jonny · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fuchsia Dunlop remains among the most authoritative in Chinese cooking. This newly updated edition of her book is remarkable and beautifully photographed. Her research is exhaustive and her recipes are endless, seemingly. Recommended, highly.

[Siyuan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is ostensibly a cookbook, but I’ve spent hours reading it and I haven’t cooked from a single recipe yet, though I’ve had some delicious dumplings from this book made by someone else. Her writing is lovely, and also sometimes surprisingly funny, every sentence makes me hungry, and the cover and photos are gorgeous. And while I’m usually the first to complain about cultural appropriation or, even worse, white people diving into other cultures to become the most knowledgeable/skillful authority on that culture a la the last samurai, that isn’t at all what she does here. She faithfully relays what she’s learned from Chinese home cooks, chefs, restaurateurs, and teachers, gives credit where it’s due, and she’s analytical and thoughtful about how she translates Sichuanese and Chinese palates, flavors, textures, and diets in a way that simultaneously makes it accessible to Western audiences but also isn’t simplified or dumbed down and rings true to someone like me, who was born in China and returned there year after year, lived there after college, and grew up on home cooked Chinese food. Beyond the food, I could read an entire book of just her descriptions of the unique character of each village, the rhythm of daily life in Chengdu, the history of specific dishes snd ingredients, and the natural beauty of wild landscapes. This is the kind of travel/food writing I wanted—and didn’t get—when I read Ruth Reichl’s memoirs. I am sad I do not own a wok or a Chinese cleaver.

[Vivien · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lots of great recipes at varying levels of difficulty. The advanced level are recipes I think most people don’t make/don’t dare to make at home because it’s easier to buy it at restaurants. 太多功夫. I also enjoyed learning the history of Sichuan cuisine, the ingredients, the techniques, and how to create the foundation for great food.

My dumb qualms:
What type of aubergine? My parents typically use Chinese eggplants because less bitter and the skin is not as tough.
There are extra steps to preparing a fish that I don’t think gets covered. Even when my parents bring home fish from the supermarket, they do extra cleaning to the fish. Especially that flounder...
I wish there were more recipes using the different types of tofu. Maybe something with 腐皮.
I think seitan with some chili oil would be a nice addition for more vegan/vegetarian friendly options.

Def will try the chili oil, 鱼香茄子、火爆腰花 and 水煮鱼. I would love to see videos for these recipes.

[Jules · Rating 5 out of 5]

After living for 5 months in Chengdu, Sichuan cooking is my favorite cuisine - sorry, sushi. Dunlop clearly knows the ins and outs of Sichuan cuisine, from banquets and fly restaurants to country homecooking and street vendors. I read Dunlop's memoir "Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper" earlier this year, and her captivating writing strikes again in this updated version of her previous cookbook "Land of Plenty."
Thank you Omaha Public Library for purchasing her books at my request, but I need my own copy of this book immediately. I read it cover to cover as if it were a novel. My only complaint is that not every recipe had a picture (see how greedy I am??) I have a few of these ingredients in my pantry but I'm headed to my favorite Asian market soon.

[Laura · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Food of Sichuan by Fuchsia Dunlop is an exceptional cookbook that delves deep into the flavors and history of Sichuanese cuisine. The recipes are incredibly well-described, complemented by stunning images that bring the dishes to life. While some recipes are complex and might seem daunting, others are simple and approachable, making this book suitable for both novice and experienced cooks. The stories and cultural insights add an enriching layer to the culinary journey. Though I haven't yet tested any recipes, my wishlist is growing, and I look forward to trying many of them. Highly recommended for anyone interested in authentic Chinese cooking.

[Marlo · Rating 5 out of 5]

Just what I needed to level up my Chinese cooking skills! Because I'm vegan, I particularly love spicy Chinese food because it's got such intense flavour (unlike Cantonese cuisine, which relies on the inherent flavour of fresh ingredients, and which historically has dominated North American Chinese food). Sichuan cuisine also has so many excellent tofu, noodle and vegetable dishes.

Dunlop's knowledge is profound, and her experiences in Sichuan (she has trained as a chef there) and the historical background of the food are super interesting.

[Jiachen Jiang · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was leery of Dunlop for the longest time but I was charmed by the honest love for Sichuanese food that exudes through every giddy soliloquy on the exquisite funk of fermented beans (and there are surprisingly many.) A cookbook that feels half anthropological. A real understanding of a food culture and the lifestyle that sprouted it. I was surprised by the simplicity of some recipes, especially ones that had always seemed insurmountable to me (making your own Sichuanese hot pot, complete with the beef tallow?)

[Kkrochet · Rating 5 out of 5]

This cookbook is a complete make over of The Land of Plenty and I thought that was an excellent cookbook. This book is even more beautiful and also has very helpful instructions, notes and history with each recipe. All my favorites from China in the book. She also explains ingredients very well and that helps with shopping. You can create amazing Sichuan food wherever you are with this cookbook! Enjoy!

[Dray · Rating 5 out of 5]

Chinese cooking is one of the best and deepest food cultures in the world. This book delves into a regional cuisine in an amazing way, giving inspiration an new flavors to the home cook. We know Sichuan mostly by their peppers but the real story is much broader and more interesting than that. This book takes the reader through region with an amazing array of recipes. Well worth the read.

[Vicki · Rating 5 out of 5]

The standard to which any book exploring food and cooking culture should be held. It shines with the greedy enthusiasm of the author for the food of Sichan and knowledge to make it properly. I’ve probably cooked half the recipes without a single fail - the dumpling wrappers are the an absolute breeze and the fush fragrant aubergine alone justified buying the book. I own an earlier edition.

[Charles Eldridge · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an authority on Sichuan cuisine. I appreciate the knowledge that the author provides.

Personally, I found the book too cumbersome - hard to pare down a weeknight meal amidst the plethora of recipes.

Not a fault of the author, but many specific ingredients would be quite hard to source for the home cook in America.

I’m glad this book exists, but it won’t be a go-to for my family.

[Linda · Rating 5 out of 5]

The author is a master of Sichuan cuisine and master of Sichuan food vocabulary that she translated into English in this book. The author also knows a lot about the spirit of Sichuan food culture. Another excellent book after her Shark fin and Sichuan Pepper.

[Grant · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fabulous, like all Fuchsia Dunlop's books. And most of the obscure ingredients, if not at HMart or CMart, can be bought online from places like Mala Market (or Amazon). I've made the mapo tofu (with ground beef or pork) the most.

[Aasinathena · Rating 5 out of 5]

This wonderful work is going to be in my permanent book collection ! What a great collection of recipes. Some ingredients are hard to find but of course they are available online/ If you give a time stretch and gather I think these recipes are doable !

[Todd · Rating 5 out of 5]

A deep dive into classic Sichuan cuisine from one of the first non-whites to finish an apprenticeship in one of the province's finest cooking schools. The selection of recipes, organization, and background material are all superb

[Niall McDougall · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an absolutely stunning book. The rolls Royce of western observations. Accessible, informative and just beautiful. I cook a fair few Szechuan dishes and am looking forward to expanding my repertoire 😄

[Paddy Hall · Rating 5 out of 5]

should i put cookbooks on here?? yes, especially when i’ve read them cover to cover. one of my favourite cookbooks i own. writing’s beautiful, food’s beautiful, so detailed and provides all the context. perfect cookbook.

[Patrick · Rating 5 out of 5]

Maybe the first cookbook I’ve read cover to cover, skipping nothing. So rich with information, so excellent throughout. We will make some, but other members of our household sadly do not tolerate many of the flavors.

[Winston · Rating 5 out of 5]

you can try to make the dishes, but i would just order them from Han.

[Denise]

So beyond my cooking capabilities, but I did learn how to make perfect long-grain rice.

[Christopher Haugen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great comprehensive book of not just recipes but technique, cultural importance, and the why.

[Bri · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved the scholarly consideration of Sichuan's history and how the cuisine developed--it's a more complex and fascinating process than I'd ever imagined.

[Tyler · Rating 5 out of 5]

A tremendous resource. Well written, digestible, and all the recipes *work*

[Paul · Rating 5 out of 5]

Read the history of Sichuan, along with the 23 flavors and 56 cooking techniques. Very interesting context for one of my favorite cuisines.