Creatures from the animal kingdom represented in exquisite jewelry by renowned masters Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., JAR, Belperron, David Webb, Schlumberger, Boucheron, and many other brilliant jewelers.
Many of the most imaginative designs by the world's great jewelry houses and artisans take inspiration from the animal kingdom. From Cartier's iconic panthers to Bulgari's snakes and JAR's butterflies, these spectacular objects dripping with precious stones are akin to wearable art. Beautiful Creatures depicts some of the most spectacular beasts ever transformed into sparkling treasures and accompanies a forthcoming special exhibition in the American Museum of Natural History's Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals.
The 120 pieces featured date from the mid-1800s to the present, representing species from the realms of land, air, and water. Gorgeous studio photography of the jewelry is complemented by images of iconic personalities, including Elizabeth Taylor, Twiggy, and the Duchess of Windsor wearing famous animal- inspired jewels. Guest curator Marion Fasel relays the stories behind the individual pieces through entertaining anecdotes and reveals the colorful histories and fascinating symbolism of these remarkable creatures in precious gems and metals that intrigue and delight and that we never tire of wearing.
This Catalog of the recently closed “Beautiful Creatures” exhibit reminds me why I miss living near NYC. Apparently the Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals Hall of the Museum of Natural History has been completely “reimagined and renovated” (p. 2) to accommodate educational programs and shows of the magnitude of the one showcased here.
All pieces were made within the 150 year period of the MNH’s founding.
The catalog begins with butterflies, which is fitting for its endurance as a motif. Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpetsare, Schlumberger and others are represented as well as independent designers. Some photos show the art being worn by models others by the famous of now (Beyonce, Princess Anne) and then (Princess Alexandra of Wales; The Duchess of Windsor), and timeless (Elizabeth Taylor).
The book is arranged (as was the exhibit) by creatures of “Air”, “Water” and “Land”. Like most books published by Rizzoli, the photographs layout are excellent. Each piece is described, naming it’s designer, the date and material with expanded descriptions.
My favorites are • a grasshopper ring c. 1900 . 50– not for its beauty, but for its creative idea (designed to look like it landed on the wearer’s finger) and representation of the art nouveau period. • Bird Brooch, 1940 – pp. 60-61 shows how French designers worked around war time shortages using enamel along with precious stones. • The 4 Bird Brooches on p. 65 show incredible detail • The jellyfish (p.100) for being unusual • Snakes (pp.106-129) must lend themselves to jewelry, these are beautiful despite the negative image of their species.
Although small in size, this book could be a good addition to a coffee table library for rock hounds and fashionistas.