Into the Clouds: The Race to Climb the World's Most Dangerous Mountain

by Tod Olson

A tale of survival and brotherhood atop one of the deadliest mountains on Earth.
This fast-paced, three-part narrative takes readers on three expeditions over 15 years to K2, one of the deadliest mountains on Earth. Roped together, these teams of men face perilously high altitudes and battering storms in hopes of reaching the summit. As each expedition sets out, they carve new paths along icy slopes and unforgiving rock, creating camps on ledges so narrow they fear turning over in their sleep.

But disaster strikes -- in 1939, four men never make it down the mountain. Fourteen years later, a man develops blood clots in his legs at 25,000 feet, leaving his team with no safe path off the mountain. Into the Clouds tells the stories of the men whose quest to conquer a mountain became a battle to survive the descent.

Genres: Nonfiction, Adventure, Middle Grade, History, Survival, Mountaineering, Juvenile

293 pages, Kindle Edition

Published April 21, 2020

About the author

Tod Olson is author of the historical fiction series HOW TO GET RICH, a Booklist Top Ten Series Non Fiction for Youth selection (don't tell them, but it's fiction). The first two books in his narrative nonfiction series, LOST, are now available. Tod lives with his family in Vermont and holds an MFA from Vermont College of the Fine Arts.

Reviews

[Darla · Rating 5 out of 5]

Kudos to Tod Olson and those who assisted him in bringing this story to life. The three unsuccessful attempts to conquer K2 in the Himalayas literally took my breath away. Reading about the effects on the body of being above 25,000 for an extended period of time made me stop and take a deep breath, just to make sure I still could. If you have not read this book or other stories about extreme mountain climbers you might wonder why these people risk their live in this way. The Authors Note contains an interesting passage about "Nirvana in the Death Zone." He says, "They crave moments when the task becomes so difficult it demands total concentration." There is no other thought beyond taking that next step or getting that next handhold.

A quote from Houston, the leader of the third expedition in 1953 lends additional clarity: "I would not deny that the summit matters and matters greatly, but I know that the rewards of climbing live in the venture and not alone in the triumph. It is the means which calls us to the end, not the end which justifies the means."

Thank you to Scholastic Focus and Edelweiss for a DRC in exchange for an honest review.

[Brenda · Rating 5 out of 5]

In his latest book, Into the Clouds, Tod Olson has another survival story, this one details the race to climb one of the world's deadliest and second- highest mountain, the K2. His story is written across three distinct time periods. Each treacherous climb includes details about the expedition team, how they not only survived the harsh mountainous range but also how they dealt with the harrowing cold temperatures. It chronicles both their successes and failures.

Olson begins in 19o9 following the Duke of Abruzzi's failed climb. Then moves the story into the First American Expedition of 1938 by a medical student named Charlie Houston. While Houston and his men never made it to the summit, they laid the groundwork for future expeditions. Even naming one of the most treacherous parts House's Chimney. The second expedition was led by Fritz Wiessner. A man who took huge risks with his crew, and had less experienced climbers. His expedition was riddled with problems and was very disorganized. In the end, Wiessner's team was also unsuccessful, losing three Sherpa's and one of its crewmembers, Dudley Wolfe. Following Wiessner's climb questions began to mount regarding the efficacy of such climbs. Blame was being thrown around regarding Wolfe's death. In 1953, Charlie Houston was determined to take another crack at the mountain and set out with his team on the Second American Expedition.

Here's where the crux of the story really seems to lie for me. Charlie Houston had a very different leadership style to Weissner, he saw his team as having a "fellowship of the rope." He was determined to pick men who held to the same sort of standards that he did. He really wanted to be the first team to make it to the summit. Initially, everything seemed to be going in their favor. As the expedition climbed higher and higher they moved their supplies up the hill, establishing a new campsite each time. At some point all the teams had to deal with the harsh elements, winds gusting 80+ miles per hour, frozen toes due to the blistering cold snowfall and the constant risk of loose rocks or avalanches from above. As they climbed, Houston and his crew found reminders of previous climbs and as with previous teams had to deal with the illness of one of their crew. In their case, Gilkey developed blood clots in his leg. Given Houston's medical training, he understood the risks of continuing onward and made the decision to turn back before making it to the summit. Now the team was focused on getting safely back down the mountain so they wrapped Gilkey in sleeping bags as best they could and descended. However, conditions on the mountain began to worsen and at one point they lost Gilkey as well. Houston and his team eventually made their way home and in 1954 an Italian team made the climb in a military-style expedition. Disappointed, Houston never climbed again.

As I was reading Into the Clouds I couldn't help thinking that no matter how strong you think you are, you need to respect nature/the elements. Weissner seemed to believe that with his will alone he could make it to the summit. But nature can be harsh and unpredictable. I really appreciated that Olson also included explanations for why extreme climbers do what they do. That some of these men had a deep desire to conquer the mountain. Houston's was so strong that despite not succeeding the first time around, he even went back. It's remarkable when you think about all that they had to endure up on the mountain, breaking a new campsite on the side of a cliff hoping that the wind wouldn't drag them off or they wouldn't get buried by the snow. Spending days cramped in their tent unable to move trying to make sure that the people in the tent next to yours are still out there. Suffering from hunger and thirst. Even just the will and strength to hang on when you're tied to someone who's hanging at the end of your line.

Included in the back of the book are a detailed source reference list and photographs of some of the equipment the men used. And throughout the text, there are many photographs of the men and Sherpa's who went on the climbs. I was really fascinated with how they tested their ropes to ensure that it could hold the combined weight of the men and the slow determined process they took to allow each of them to acclimate to the altitude. A remarkable story of survival and a very detailed account of these men's journey.

**A huge thank you to the Scholastic Focus and Blue Slip Media for the review copy. **

[Kim Bahr · Rating 4 out of 5]

Love the diligence of going after what you want. Interesting quote, “Better to take risks . . . than die from the rot within.”

[Rachel · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such a great story of courage and a adventure.

[Kathy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book certainly disabused me of any notion I had that I might like to climb a very tall mountain.

[Staci Vought · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this with Hannah. It was fascinating to read about these expeditions, but it was lacking the details I needed to truly invest in the people and the moments they endured. Part of it was the third party storytelling - and part of it was the author’s style of telling major points of action, but not dwelling on them enough to paint a picture of what was happening.

[Camden Oler · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book that I read is called Into The Clouds by Tod Olson was a really fascinating book that I enjoyed reading a lot. The book is about different expeditions trying to climb the most dangerous and second tallest mountain in the world called K2. In the exposition of the book it starts by talking about how dangerous the mountain is and detailing earlier attempts to climb the mountain. In the rising actions the book builds suspense by detailing just how hard it is going to be to successfully climb the mountain without dying. Then the plot to gain action by continuing to in detail describe all the rough aspects of the climb the team of climbers encountered. As the plot continues, a major conflict of character vs nature happens when a bad storm keeps the climbers trapped in their tents for five days halting their progress. Then to make matters worse one of the climbers gets a blood clot forcing the entire team to turn around when they were close to the top of the mountain. In a sad turn of events on the way down one of the climbers tragically slips and falls to his death. This leads into the resolution of talking about all the climbers going back to their normal lives and always thinking about their close friend that died on the mountain.
I can connect to one aspect of this book, which is the fact that the climbers were so close to their goal of reaching the summit only to have to turn back around for something that was out of their control. This is a very frustrating thing to have happened to you. I have experienced it multiple times but one of the times that sticks out to me the most was when I worked hard and was so close to making the middle school basketball team. I ended up being the last player cut and just barely missed being on the team. It was something that I could not control. I felt like I should have been on the team but I could not control whether or not I was put on the team. Just like the climbers felt that they put in so much effort and dedication to be the first climbers to climb K2 they ultimately had something out of their control change their plans. Towards the end of the book one of the climbers talks about how close they were to their goal and how it was a hard thing to get past the disappointment of how close they were to summiting the mountain. I had been able to do this after not making the basketball team. Once I did this I was able to work even harder to make sure I made the basketball team just like the climbers still tried to work hard to climb other difficult mountains. This was quite a valuable theme that I took away from this book.
I really enjoyed this book and how well it was written. Some of the parts I specifically liked was how it had journal entries and pictures from the actual climbers who were climbing the mountain. This really helped me be able to see and understand the tough circumstances that were on the mountain. Another thing about this book that I really liked was how the book was able to provide a lot of good detail without dragging the book out and making it boring and really long. One minor thing that I did not like about the book was that the author did not write that much about the climbers who finally reach the summit on K2. It is just a small little thing I didn’t like but it did not change how much I enjoyed the book. Overall a great book and I would definitely recommend reading this book.

[Barbara · Rating 4 out of 5]

Although most of us are fascinated by stories of survival or attempts to climb to seemingly impossible heights., we might not consider the risks involved in such endeavors. In this well-written, detailed account of various expeditions to the top of the world, readers will feel as though they are part of these attempts to reach the top of the world. The book describes three attempts to conquer the slopes of K2, the second highest mountain in the Himalayas. Background on both Mount Everest and K2 is provided, but much of the narrative concerns Charlie Houston, a doctor who loves climbing, and his involvement in efforts to reach the top of K2. He had been part of an earlier failed attempt to conquer the mountain in 1938 and returned to the area in 1953 with a new team and renewed determination. In between, another expedition had ended in disaster, and as the 1953 group inched painfully up the mountain, they passed the remains of their predecessors. Terrible, costly mistakes had been made on that previous venture, and Houston was determined not to make the same mistakes. Nevertheless, the mountain had its way with the men, and despite their caution, they had to give up, making the choice to save one of their party rather than risk his life. The ethical quandary that faced the two parties as they balanced their desire to reach their goal and their pride and ego against the survival of others is carefully described here, and readers will surely wonder what they might have done under similar circumstances. With photographs and gripping details, the author describes each step of the journeys and just how much effort it took to move from one part of the mountain to the next while battling fierce winds, hunger, altitude, and severe cold. Even the act of melting snow for tea sapped their reserves of energy. While this book might not inspire readers to plan an expedition to those mountains, it surely will leave them impressed by the determination of those climbers while also shaking their heads at how costly even the smallest mistakes at that level could be. My heart was racing the entire time I was reading this book.

[Valerie McEnroe · Rating 4 out of 5]

For the most part this is an exciting true story told by an author I really admire. I absolutely love every book in his nonfiction Lost series. This book was a tad harder to read. There are moments when it grips you and moments when the details drag. I loved the personal narration of Houston and Weissner's expeditions, the brushes with dead, the health and weather problems, the miscommunications. I didn't care so much for the more dry content like explanations of mountain ranges. Since it's pretty much impossible to scale the tallest mountains in the world and not come back with harrowing tales, I'm not surprised Olson went after this story. It's intense. My only concern is that some kids might put it down when it veers off the story and into more factual stuff.

The book focuses on the race to summit K2, a mountain in Asian that is slightly shorter than Everest, but much harder to climb. Charlie Houston was the first to try in the 1930s. He was able to establish some climbing camps and get a good lay of the land. Shortly after, Fritz Weissner gave it a go. He could have summited, but turned back when his partner pleaded with him to wait. He didn't get another chance. He received much criticism for not keeping the group together which caused major problems. Four men died. Over 10 years later, Houston tried again, determined not to repeat Weissner's mistakes. He was a good leader, but the cold temperatures, snow, and wind led to problems out of his control. He also did not summit. The most exciting part of the book comes at the end when one climber slides, pulling most of the others behind him. Extreme luck or a miracle keeps them from going over the edge. All but one climber survived.

It's definitely worth reading if you haven't read Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster. Kids will appreciate all the photos.

[Kate Waggoner · Rating 5 out of 5]

Into the Clouds by Tod Olson tells the story of three separate, but connected, expeditions to summit K2. The book is divided into three parts. Part 1 begins in 1938 with the first expedition, led by Charlie Houston, which was a basically a scouting mission. The men were tasked with finding a route to the summit, but weren't actually supposed to summit. They were just laying the ground work for the second expedition to be led by Fritz Wiessner, who planned to be the first man to summit K2. Part 2 takes place in 1939 and documents Wiessner's ill-fated expedition up the mountain. Finally, Part 3 takes place in 1953 when Charlie Houston returns to K2 with a new crew determined to summit.

I love Olson's narrative style of nonfiction writing and find his books absolutely captivating. This book is no different. I became instantly enthralled in the perilous journey to the top of K2. The chapters flow easily from one event to the next and the description and use of interviews, diaries, and letters, and the inclusion of photos from the various expeditions brings the story to life. Because I was so into the book, I finished it in a matter of hours. I loved it so much that I can't wait to share with my students. In fact, I know exactly which student I would recommend it to first. However, due to the Covid-19 school closures and social distancing, I am unable to share this wonderful book with them. It will definitely be included in my beginning of the year classroom library book tasting activity.

[Heidi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Tod Olson really knows how to tell a story. Writing fiction can be challenging enough, with characters to develop, settings to keep track of, and plots to plot. But narrative nonfiction requires the same skills combined with facts and research. Into the Clouds tells the story of three expeditions undertaken with the goal of reaching the summit of K2, one of the tallest mountains in the world. Considered to be even harder to climb than Mount Everest, efforts to climb K2 have led to incredible suffering and even death for those who have attempted it. This book highlights three specific expeditions. Two of those expeditions were led by Charlie Houston, in 1938 and 1953. The second expedition was lead by Fritz Wiessner.

The book is divided into three parts. Each section highlights the events of one of these expeditions. Sadly, none of these expeditions succeeded in reaching the summit. But the stories of the incredible effort made are fascinating and mind-boggling. It's astounding the price some people are willing to pay to accomplish a goal. It was especially interesting to compare the three expeditions. Houston's leadership put the needs of the team first. Both expeditions turned around when the needs of the team required it. Even then the results were devastating. But Wiessner's team fell apart almost immediately leading to the deaths of four members of the expedition. Climbing a mountain with unpredictable weather, nightmarish terrain, and avalanche danger around every turn means you are literally putting your life on the line. And yet for the men on these expeditions it was worth the gamble, at least at first. Some of them came to regret their presence on the mountain, but by then it was too late.

Olson tells a compelling tale of sacrifice and survival that leaves one wondering about the drive that leads people to take such risks.

[Alicia · Rating 3 out of 5]

Detailing climbing Everest, the book includes a close profile of a specific teams ascent but also has plenty of pictures of other mountains in the area and compares other mountains around the world. It highlights mountaineering and climbing from the physical needs to the mental fortitude. Talks about the trauma of death on (and off) the mountain. Explains the inequities between the sherpas and the men with money and will to climb.

All of it is a worthwhile book for teens to read who are curious, but it still does get a little bogged down in details that seem less riveting (but still good researching). Though it's true that truth is stranger than fiction-- I wanted a little more riveting writing to keep me on the edge. However the story is still spectacular to tell from why people are interested in risking their lives. But also I love how it ended about spectacular failures too. It's something that only a few can ever say they've done.

[Brenda Kahn · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a person who couldn't summit Mt. Democrat, the most easily scaled fourteener in Colorado (it's a day hike!), I am in a mixture of total awe and bemusement at those who climb extreme peaks. It has been awhile since I've read any books like this. I read Into Thin Air long before I joined GR and that sparked a binge of Mount Everest and Arctic exploration reading that confirmed my sea-level status.

In fact, the title of this evoked the Everest story. I might've read this in one intense sitting were it not for work. I almost stayed up late last night to finish the last thirty pages but put it off till I was awake and refreshed this morning. I have promised a full-review closer to publication date to a publicist. I will just leave this here. Breaking my rule to not give stars to give it five. I really loved this.

[Tina · Rating 4 out of 5]

How much did I love this book? I was sorry it ended. This true story is based entirely on K2. Now, I do not climb and have absolutely no desire to do so. I don't understand people who love to climb and who will test death to do it, but I DO love reading about it.

This book is so well written. The tone is engaging and the author does a wonderful job of staying on topic and NOT going off on tangents that are irrelevant to the story. The writing is also down to earth (no pun intended) and is written for the amateur (me) who knows next to nothing about climbing.

The subjects are super interesting as well. I really felt myself rooting for them and, because of the great descriptions, I often felt as though I was right on that mountain with them.

Love, love this book that ended too quickly.

[Brooke - TheBrookeList · Rating 4 out of 5]

This narrative nonfiction title is engaging and interesting and shows the struggle of human perseverance exhibited by the first few American expeditions who attempted to climb K2. It sparked addl interest in the topic, expanded my world view, and brought into consideration many of the unique priorities held by the different men who attempted the climb. Focused a lot on relationships as well, which rounded out the story and was well-documented.

Read for approval for Davis School District Curriculum on the Secondary English Language Arts committee. Approved without reservation.

I'm surprised the 1953 Expedition to climb K2 hasn't been made into a blockbuster yet! Crazy turns of events and stalwart men.

[Lucy Bowen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Before reading this book, I was definitely skeptical about this book. I was not sure if Olson was able to make an interesting novel while keeping all of the facts there. However, he was successful in making a thrilling, accurate novel! K2 is a mountain that I have heard very little about. This book shares the details of 3 unsuccessful American missions to the summit of the dangerous mountain. It combines journal entries, pictures, and storytelling to convey many different themes about life. It is a quick read that will be sure to keep you on the edge of your seat. It is no easy task making it up and down one of the world's toughest mountains to climb. The struggles of the characters show that life is a delicate thing that no one is promised.

[Mae Rutledge · Rating 4 out of 5]

When all the men attempted to climb K2, the 2nd highest and deadliest mountain on earth, life seemed harder then ever before. Tod Olsen's Thriller, Into the Clouds, continues to keep the reader on edge throughout the entire book. Olsen provides descriptions of nature. The snow and ice storms made it hard to climb K2. The difficulties in climbing the mountain engages readers from start to finish. The extreme danger in climbing the mountain put everyone's life at risk. The climbers many obstacles keep the reader in suspense. While climbing the mountain, climbers fight snow, ice, and exhaustion. Readers who enjoy suspense-filled books will hold Into the Clouds in high regards.

[Jackie Manz · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was everything the cover said it would be. I couldn’t put it down. It was a whim that made me check it out from our middle school library, and I read it during my student’s silent reading time. Unlike most of them, I kept looking at the timer wishing for more time so I could find out what happened next! I really enjoyed the historical documentation and found the illustrations helpful to the stories. Additionally, he adds a very comprehensive list of books and articles for further reading in his bibliography. If you enjoy a good adventure/survival story, this one is for you!! It’s classified as YA, but I think most adults would also enjoy it.

[Ariel Starzinski · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well researched and written. I easily lost myself in these tales of courage and determination. Particularly loved the philosophical reflections woven throughout, especially from the expedition journals. Also Loved the epilogue and will keep this gem tucked in my pocket: “I would not deny that the summit matters greatly, but I know that the rewards of climbing live in the venture and not alone in the triumph. It is the means which calls us to the end, not the end which justifies the means.” -Charles Houston

[Heniuniu · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book document the first 3 expeditions to summit the most dangerous mountain, K2. Even though all 3 Journey are failed to summit K2. All 3 journeys tell me something different about the human being, teamwork, leadership, and the relationship with the mountain/nature. I would give my highest respect to the Sherpas who lost their lives during the effort to rescue the member in the second expeditions. I also would honor the third expedition team for their bonds and teamwork. To me, the only losers are some team members on the second expedition.

[Ellen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've heard that the true test of a mountaineer isn't Everest - it's K2. After reading this book, I finally understand why that is (although I will likely never understand why people would risk their lives to stand at the top of a mountain... That's an adrenaline rush I personally do not need.

Olson does a good job of sharing the facts while still paying close attention to the human emotions behind the constant and varying struggles. I found myself moved to tears, and I'm also driven to read more books about other mountaineering attempts - failed or otherwise.

[Samantha · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love mountain survival stories, so this one was right up my alley. K2 is a mysterious mountain--though not the tallest in the world, it is harder to climb than Everest (which is no picnic). I appreciated that Olson gave us as much information as he could about the porters involves. These individuals are so important to the success of the climb and are often left out or minimized. There were times when I yelled at the different individuals about how short-sighted they were being, but that's the benefit of hindsight. I think this is an excellent read for teens.

[Suzanne Severns · Rating 5 out of 5]

Most people have heard of Mount Everest, the tallest mountain in the world. Over 6% of those who try to climb it perish in the attempt, but few know about K2, the world's second tallest mountain which is far more treacherous. Of those who endeavor to climb it, 25% do not survive. Into the Clouds focuses primarily on the first American mountaineering group attempting a climb to the top. This is a well-researched, descriptive book with plenty of black and white pictures scattered throughout to give young adult readers an in-depth look into this harrowing experience fraught with peril.

[Sesana · Rating 4 out of 5]

Riveting YA nonfiction about three failed attempts to scale K2. It's definitely an interesting choice to showcase only failed expeditions, and on the less glamorous, if more difficult, K2. I did end up wishing that Olson had devoted a couple of chapters to the first successful summit. But in the end, the expeditions that were covered here are exciting and fascinating to read about, and do a lot to explain the very peculiar mindset that climbers, and extreme climbers in particular, need to have to even attempt something as dangerous as climbing K2.

[Iris · Rating 5 out of 5]

Most people know about Mount Everest, but have you ever heard of K2? It's the second highest peak in the world and considered to be the most dangerous. This book is an exciting account of several attempts to reach the summit by different expeditions and the harrowing details of their adventures. Olson's narrative leaves his readers breathless, as he describes the toll of the climb on the mountaineers and the sheer willpower of these brave souls. Truly an excellent narrative!

[Gavin Edwards · Rating 3 out of 5]

As someone who wouldn’t go climbing up talk mountains to feel an adreline rush i didn’t expect to like this book as much as i did. This book was very captaviating and the truth of how it actually is when you’re climbing a thousand foot tall mountain was very interesting. The pacing of this book was very good and the descriptions of what is happening are very good. Overall this book was a good read pretty diffucult but not too easy to read, very interesting and I book i would read again.

[Alisa · Rating 3 out of 5]

I do enjoy reading climbing books. Randomly picked this up on a shelf at the library. I have read several books on climbing Mt. Everest, but never K2. This was a touching story of teamwork and diligence despite failure to summit. I especially loved the last part where the team has to survive a fall only due to one ice ax.

[Cynthia · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is an awesome read, especially for the younger generation who have dreams and aspirations to do something bigger than themselves, just for the love of doing it, not for the glory they will receive. A group of men took a chance to try their skills against something bigger than themselves, their dreams. It’s a great book.

[Simone · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love Tod Olson's non-fiction, and I love reading books about people climbing dangerous mountains, so this book was basically written for me! A great read for older kids or teens (or adults) looking for stories about surviving in one of least hospitable places on earth.

[Hoover Public Library Kids and Teens · Rating 5 out of 5]

Numerous suspenseful survival stories make up this detailed portrayal of three attempts by 20th-century Americans to reach the summit of the 28,250-foot-high Himalayan peak known as K2, the world’s second highest.