Shahjahanabad: The Living City of Old Delhi

Delhi Trilogy #3

by Rana Safvi

What is today the overcrowded, neglected city of Old Delhi was once the magnificent capital of the Mughal Empire. At its heart was the spectacular Qila-e-Mubarak, now known as the Red Fort. Commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639, the beautiful city of Shahjahanabad was built around the spectacular Qila-e-Mubarak (Red Fort), on the banks of the Yamuna. Almost a decade later, in 1648, Shah Jahan entered through the river gate and celebrated the completion of this 'paradise on earth' filled with gardens, palaces, water bodies, mosques and temples. About two hundred years later, the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, left the fort by the same gate after the failed Mutiny against the British in 1857. Subsequently, both the fort and the city fared badly, as they faced the wrath of the British. The final instalment in Rana Safvi's informative, illustrated series of books on Delhi, Shahjahanabad: The Living City of Old Delhi describes the magnificence of the fort and the city through its buildings that are a living monument to the grandeur and strife of the past.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, India

420 pages, Paperback

Published June 23, 2020

About the author

Rana Safvi is a prominent figure deeply committed to India's rich cultural heritage and diverse civilizational legacy. Her work spans a variety of media including writings, podcasts, videos, and translations. With a remarkable portfolio, she has authored ten books that delve into topics ranging from culture and history to the monuments of India. Notable titles among her works include "Tales from the Quran and Hadith," "The Delhi Trilogy: Where Stones Speak," "The Forgotten Cities of Delhi," "Shahjahanabad: The Living City of Old Delhi," "A Saint, A Folk Tale and Other Stories," and "In Search of The Divine: Living Histories of Sufism in India."

In addition to her literary contributions, Rana Safvi has undertaken the task of translating significant works into English. Notably, she has translated Sir Syed Ahmad Khan's pivotal piece on Delhi, "Asar-us-Sanadid," and "Dastan-e-Ghadar," along with four accounts of Delhi from the 19th and 20th centuries. Her prowess extends beyond the written word—she is a regular contributor to various national newspapers and magazines and has actively participated in conferences and seminars.

Rana Safvi's blog, "ranasafvi.com," serves as a treasure trove of cultural, literary, and historical insights. Her expertise even extends to the realm of food history, where she has penned numerous articles and engaged in conferences on the subject. Notably, she is part of the "Forgotten Food" project at the University of Sheffield, contributing to "Desi Delicacies," a best-selling food anthology in 2021. Within this anthology, she authored a chapter focusing on Qorma, Qaliya, and Awadh cuisine.

Overall, Rana Safvi's multifaceted contributions encompass history, literature, cultural preservation, and the exploration of culinary heritage. Through her diverse efforts, she continues to enrich our understanding of India's multifarious tapestry and deep-rooted traditions.

Reviews

[Najibah Bakar · Rating 5 out of 5]

Saya ditemukan dengan buku Shahjahanabad karya Rana Safvi ini secara tidak sengaja ketika menyemak buku berjudul ‘Indian Ink’. Buku Indian Ink menceritakan tentang bagaimana ketajaman pena dan penyebaran bahan cetak pihak English East India Company di India telah mempengaruhi pembentukan sejarah pada kurun ke-17 dan ke-18.

Namun begitu, dalam buku Indian Ink terselit banyak teori sejarah buku dan penerbitan yang sukar ditembusi oleh ‘layman’, jadi saya beralih arah melihat buku-buku lain tentang India pada kurun yang sama. Shahjahanabad pun muncul! Ketika itu terbit pertanyaan dalam fikiran saya, bagaimanakah keadaan negeri India sebelum ketibaan English East India Company di situ?

Buku ini menceritakan dengan begitu indah pembinaan ibu kota Shahjahanabad di bawah pemerintahan Shah Jahan kira-kira 200 tahun sebelum British menjajah. Beliau ialah maharaja yang telah mengarahkan pembinaan mausoleum Taj Mahal sebagai tempat pengebumian almarhum isterinya, Mumtaz. Dua orang arkitek Taj Mahal iaitu Ustad Hamid dan Ustad Ahmad Lahori juga terlibat dalam pembinaan kali ini yang mengambil masa 10 tahun.

Pesona kota Qila-e Mubarak yang merupakan teras Shahjahanabad sungguh luar biasa. Ketinggian nilai seni binanya yang penuh unsur kerohanian menonjolkan kedekatan pemerintah dengan agama Islam.

Sebagai contoh, terdapat aliran sungai secara semula jadi dalam seluruh kompleks istana untuk menggambarkan suasana syurga. Manakala di ruang mesyuarat diletakkan arca berbentuk neraca sebagai peringatan agar maharaja menegakkan keadilan.

Masjid Jama (Masjid Besar Diraja) dibina di atas banir tiang yang lebih tinggi daripada istana untuk menggambarkan ketinggian kedudukan Tuhan berbanding maharaja. Mimbar masjid pula ditempatkan lebih tinggi daripada takhta, kerana tidak mungkin panggilan menuju Tuhan dibuat daripada tempat yang lebih rendah daripada tempat wakil Tuhan (khalifah) menjalankan amanah-Nya di muka bumi. Mungkin ini boleh dikatakan adab seperti yang disebut-sebut oleh anak-anak murid Prof. Al-Attas.

Banyak lagi hal menarik dalam buku ini kerana ia turut menceritakan peribadi lain di sekeliling maharaja melalui binaan-binaan mereka. Terdapat kisah Masjid Pelacur, masjid Ruknuddaulah dan usahanya untuk memulihkan ‘red district’. Masjid-masjid turut dibina oleh puteri-puteri sultan, begitu juga medan perniagaan yang indah.

Buku ini juga menceritakan kemusnahan kota ini selepas jatuh ke tangan Inggeris akibat Pemberontakan 1857 dan pelucutan kuasa rajanya yang terakhir, Bahadur Shah Zafar. Banyak foto sisa monumen yang masih tinggal dan keadaan sekarang yang telah begitu jauh berbeza disertakan dalam buku ini.

Meskipun ada unsur sinkretik yang mengejutkan apabila dinilai dari sudut budaya Melayu-Islam, namun buku ini sangat membuka mata tentang sebuah era ketika kerajaan Islam mampu menyatukan penganut Islam, Hindu, Jain dan Sikh sebagai rakyat yang setia di bawah seorang raja.

Keseluruhan pembacaan buku ini memberikan kesan betapa maha kayanya Tuhan yang telah menzahirkan sebuah kota semewah Shahjahanabad – dan betapa beruntungnya India kerana memiliki warisan sejarah yang begitu memikat. Namun yang memedihkan, ia turut merakam betapa bobroknya penjajahan yang dibawa oleh English East India Company.

Kesan penjajahan bukan sahaja menjarah kota Shahjahanabad dan ekonomi India, tetapi turut mencipta jurang pemisah antara orang Islam dengan Hindu yang selama ratusan tahun hidup bersama dengan rukun. Terbayang semula Bahadur Shah Zafar menukilkan puisinya, menganggap Muslim dan Hindu sebagai anak-anak yang ingin dilindunginya daripada cengkaman tangan British.

[Madhulika Liddle · Rating 4 out of 5]

The city of Shahajahanabad, established by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan when he shifted the imperial capital from Agra to Delhi, is the focus of Rana Safvi’s Shahjahanabad: The Living City of Old Delhi—and not merely in the sense of describing its monuments and their history, but in examining the ethos and the culture of this city. Each chapter, for instance, is preceded by a verse (mostly in Persian or Urdu, with a translation into English) about Delhi. Also, while there are historic photos (mostly Felice Beato’s chronicling of the city in 1858), there are dozens of photos taken by the author and other photographers of present day Shahjahanabad, its exquisite old monuments now faded, ruined, and encroached upon, and the people who still live in these spaces. There are Safvi’s anecdotes about meeting people, about long-term residents of Shahjahanabad and how they remember the city, how things have changed even within the course of a generation.

Safvi begins with a long and detailed exploration of the Qila Mubarak, the Red Fort. She describes each important building that still exists (and some that have long since disappeared), how it has changed, and how it was used (there are some interesting descriptions of darbars, Mughal-era ceremonial audiences, and so on). Similarly, she goes on to describe other buildings, lanes, and monuments of Shahjahanabad, including some that lie outside the city walls but owe their provenance to Shahjahan’s building of the capital. Near the end of the book are chapters on the food of Shahjahanabad (some mouthwatering recipes included), on the festivals celebrated, and other aspects of the culture of this city. One gets a sense of the syncretic nature of Shahjahanabad as it originally was.

There are lots of very interesting titbits here, some brilliant anecdotes and little-known slices of history. Plus, Safvi’s own recollections of the adventures and the conversations she’s had while doing research for this book, add a very personal touch to Shahjahanabad (how she tried to trace the truth behind the poet who wrote Agar firdaus bar rue zameen ast… is fascinating enough to put Sherlock Holmes to shame!)

… talking of which, I kept on being reminded of another detective while I was reading this book. More than a decade ago, my first book, the first Muzaffar Jang novel, The Englishman’s Cameo , was released. I had spent several years prior to that doing research for the series, and while that research was a fulfilling experience, it was also at times frustrating. For instance, nowhere was I able to find a comprehensive list of the original gates of Shahjahanabad. There were lots of other details that I tried to find, but eventually had to give up on and find a way around.

I kept wishing, as I read Rana Safvi’s book, that she had written this book twenty years earlier.

Yes, a great reference for someone wanting to research Shahjahanabad, but also a fascinating and illuminating book for anyone interested in the history of Delhi.

[Shivam Singh · Rating 5 out of 5]

A whiff of Ganga-Jamuni in these times of cultural wars.

This is a must read in today's India. This takes you back to the times of the great Mughal Empire, and their glorious capital city, Shahjahanabad (today's Old Delhi).

This book could as well have been a movie, for the description of the monuments and the stories behind them are so vivid, that the reader feels that the scenes described are occurring before their own eyes.

This book in addition to describing the various monuments of Shahjahanabad, also delves into the culture of the times and the social ethos of the city. This is again delved into beautifully, and leaves a romantic longing for that syncretic culture (in contrast to the one prevalent today).

And last but not the least, the various recipes provided by the author are like the final garnish on top of a sumptuous dessert, which enhances both its beauty and the taste.


Again like all the other books in this trilogy, this book is encyclopaedic and peppy, a delicate balance to strike indeed.

My heartfelt gratitude to the author for the entire trilogy and also all her other books. She is a true academic gem, and a historian true to her ethos, in this era of post-truth.

[Mihr Chand · Rating 5 out of 5]

Review coming soon!

[Raza · Rating 5 out of 5]

In Delhi, geography is history. As one peels the onion that is this metropolis, Shahjahanabad is nestled close to its centre. Built by the eponymous Mughal King in the 17th century, it is simultaneously a marker of its grand past and a reminder of how callously the city was damaged in the aftermath of the revolt of 1857.

Rana Safvi's "Shahjahanabad: The Living City of Old Delhi", and indeed her "When Stones Speak" trilogy, comes across as a blessing to those interested in making a connection with the past through the world of buildings and "Aasaar-e Qadeema," the signs of the past. She has flowered as a writer over the last few years, and I cannot wait for her next work!

[Abhïshék Ghosh · Rating 3 out of 5]

While this is an easy page-turner, everything from the formatting of the photographs to the lack of a narrative or storyline makes it an amateurish piece of work. While even the endeavour is not unique as the streets of Old Delhi have been plentifully recorded by Sir Syed Ahmad Khan, the founder of th Aligarh Muslim University. I am unsure about the intent of the book, for it serves no more as a wanderer's guide to an abstract set of monuments that are fast being engulfed by modern, shanty housing

[Iqra Tasmiae]

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