My Place at the Table: A Recipe for a Delicious Life in Paris

by Alexander Lobrano

In this debut memoir, a James Beard Award–winning writer, whose childhood idea of fine dining was Howard Johnson’s, tells how he became one of Paris’s most influential food critics

Until Alec Lobrano landed a job in the glamorous Paris office of Women’s Wear Daily, his main experience of French cuisine was the occasional supermarket éclair. An interview with the owner of a renowned cheese shop for his first article nearly proves a disaster because he speaks no French. As he goes on to cover celebrities and couturiers and improves his mastery of the language, he gradually learns what it means to be truly French. He attends a cocktail party with Yves St. Laurent and has dinner with Giorgio Armani. Over a superb lunch, it’s his landlady who ultimately provides him with a lasting touchstone for how to judge food: “you must understand the intentions of the cook.” At the city’s brasseries and bistros, he discovers real French cooking. Through a series of vivid encounters with culinary figures from Paul Bocuse to Julia Child to Ruth Reichl, Lobrano hones his palate and finds his voice. Soon the timid boy from Connecticut is at the epicenter of the Parisian dining revolution and the restaurant critic of one of the largest newspapers in France.

A mouthwatering testament to the healing power of food, My Place at the Table is a moving coming-of-age story of how a gay man emerges from a wounding childhood, discovers himself, and finds love. Published here for the first time is Lobrano’s “little black book,” an insider’s guide to his thirty all-time-favorite Paris restaurants.

Genres: Food, Memoir, Nonfiction, France, Travel, Biography, Biography Memoir

239 pages, Hardcover

First published June 1, 2021

Reviews

[Ann Mah · Rating 5 out of 5]

On the surface it's charming and effervescent, but this memoir of Paris food critic (and friend) Alexander Lobrano is weighted with memories and emotions that cracked my heart open. If you love France and food, you will love this book.

[Rennie · Rating 4 out of 5]

It feels like it’s been so long since I read a good foodoir, and especially one about France. They can be so pretentious for some reason. This was such a delight! He is an absolutely lovely writer - warm and touching with an incredible eye (and memory) for detail (you can tell he’s been a journaler). Although weirdly for as much as I loved it I didn’t get on with the actual food writing so well. It’s the style that turned me off food writing initially until I discovered other variations, i.e. melodramatically descriptive, lots of nonsensical-sounding things like onions creating “drama” and flavors being sensual and things that just generally don’t say anything meaningful about food, in my humble far-from-culinary-expert opinion.

But the way he weaves food into his stories more than makes up for it. It just has so much heart, and it’s wonderful to see his trajectory from Connecticut boy who knows he’s somehow different to Parisian food critic. It has some very tough and emotional moments too, but he writes it so well and makes every story so meaningful. Just the best kind of memoir writing, really.

Plus it’s delightfully star-studded: Ruth Reichl, Julia Child (one of my favorite scenes in the book + fabulous Julia quote), even the sweetest James Beard cameo. Love this!

[Kasia · Rating 3 out of 5]

**Copy of this book provided by publisher in exchange for an honest review**

An OK read that was a bit too highbrow for me to be truly enjoyable. Author's love for food is apparent but something about the way he is communicating his pleasure failed to resonate with me. In the end, the book that concentrates on french cuisine did not made me hungry even once. There are couple of snobbish sentiments (sometimes you go to restaurant to watch the famous clientele rather than enjoy your food; you can't have a good boeuf bourguignon outside France etc) that embittered me a bit more and in the end I finished glad that it was this short. I'm glad author's love for France resulted in successful and joyful life but unfortunately he didn't infect me with his passion.

I assume that it's a book more suitable for people that already have a deep connection with french cuisine, not a regular foodies like me.

[srharmon]

Books about food are always good! My IRL book club picked this for February. I did the audiobook since memoir is out of my genre wheelhouse. Thoroughly enjoyed it. It’s always amazing to learn how people get to where they are professionally and personally….always appreciate people making themselves vulnerable by sharing their story!

[Ruth · Rating 4 out of 5]

Some of us realize at a young age that we are different from other kids. If we were lucky, our families embraced this difference instead of punishing us for not being the same. The author of this book knew he was different but wasn't given any support, only ridicule and derision, but he managed to "escape" and follow his dream of living in Paris. Oh, what discoveries he made. We are the lucky ones to get to read about the delicious meals he tasted and the people he met while building a career as a food writer. If you are a fan of this genre, pick up this book. If you have funds for traveling, there's a solid list of recommendations at the end of it on where to spend your money. I think this book might be a sleeper hit--at least it should be to those that love good food and well done food reviews.

[Susan · Rating 5 out of 5]

The only problem I had with this book is that it ended. I liked the story, loved the author and would love to sit and have a meal and a chat with him. It was at turns funny, sad, inspiring. His descriptions of the meals and streets of Paris make me want to hop on the TGV right now and go out for an amazing meal. Extra bonus was the list of restaurants at the end of the book.

[Deb (Readerbuzz) Nance · Rating 4 out of 5]

Alexander Lobrano shares the story of his life, going from a boy in Connecticut to a renowned food critic in Paris. He was first hired to work in Paris as a young man, without much knowledge of French, without much knowledge of the city, without much knowledge of men's fashions, as a men's fashions writer there; I am still amazed at how he was hired for that. He began to find ways to write about food, his true passion, and eventually became a correspondent for Gourmet and one of Paris' leading newspapers.

Reading his food writing kept me as entranced as if I were reading a good novel.

[Randal White · Rating 5 out of 5]

A thoroughly enjoyable book. I found myself transported to Paris (and other parts of France), sitting next to the author as we enjoyed meal after meal of great French cooking. His descriptions are detailed, effusive, and luscious. Of the food, the service, and of the surroundings. A world that I will never have the chance to experience first-hand, I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to live vicariously through him!
In addition, I really enjoyed the way that Lobrano laid bare his soul. From his childhood through the current day. It took an unbelievable amount of courage to share all that he did. I don't want to give any spoilers, but suffice it to say that it's amazing, given the childhood experiences he had, that he became such a well adjusted person.
And the people he met! From a poor dairy farmer to Princess Caroline, to immigrant cooks to fashion and food moguls. And he dishes a little on all of them! How fun!
If I had a chance to converse with the author, I would tell him that some of us find our way in life through family, some through our work, and he through food. What a great path to take!
Bravo! Highly recommend!

[W · Rating 3 out of 5]

Like it , just don't love it.

Enjoyed all the food descriptions , the behind the scenes and his experience living in Paris .

I think foodies would love this book .

I just reviewed My Place at the Table by Alexander Lobrano. #MyPlaceattheTable #NetGalley

[Halli · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not too often a lovely book comes along that immediately captures: a book about Gallic food and Paris? Sign. Me. Up. Paris and I have a very love/hate relationship. I love it from afar but am less enthused about it when I'm there. I am thankful for authors like Alec who bring a different Paris alive for me; one I am able to easily fall in love with and can dream about often.

Previously I've "poo-pooed" the name dropping other writer's find endearing but coming from Alec it really is endearing. He brings back to life individuals who have changed the American food scene forever...Julia Child, James Beard...with stories that epitomized the public's view of them as if to say "here is a story which I think you'll enjoy about a person I spent some time with once."

His descriptions of how his tastebuds and his life have unfolded are well orchestrated. I commend him for recognizing that certain events in his life happened but he refuses to hold on to anything resembling victimhood.

Really an enjoyable book.

[Judy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the memoir of an American who loves food and falls in love with Paris in particular as a young man. He goes there to write for a fashion magazine and then works his way into writing about food. The early part of his life is rather sad, but the part in Paris is great. He has a real gift for describing food. The book finishes up with a listing of some of his favorite Paris restaurants including their specialties and price ranges.

[Zee Monodee · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5 stars
While I loved all the food descriptions mentioned throughout the book, it also felt 'lacking' in the sense you're told about the dishes and not made to enjoy them as and with the author - which is a feature I love about food memoirs, but which is not very present here. The chapters are also very disjointed, with no real red thread between them, and read more like a collection of thoughts and a retelling of how the author became a food critic. Some of the learning to speak French was humorous, but there wasn't enough to carry a solid thread of 'fish out of the water' here, which is another aspect of travelling memoir I love.
Then the other thing that felt a bit of a letdown was how much of the retellings were about food and restaurants and Paris of/in the past - much of what's recounted is from the 1980s and 1990s, then it somehow jumps to circa 2009. In this light, it read as a very nostalgic account of Paris, which hurts the book as we're in the now (post 2021/post-pandemic) and there was no touching on what the Paris setting for food is like around the time this book came out (and I suppose, was written or compiled)
There's also a part of the book which was very revolting, and though it played a part in the author's life, it didn't feel like the narrative of this book warranted the addition of this part (as the author writes of his journey to becoming a food critic here, not how/why he became the man he is or not), which frankly killed the vibe and could very well be an automatic DNF for many readers.
Overall, the potential was there. Read for a nostalgic trip to the food scene of the Paris pre-millennium, mostly

[Marion · Rating 5 out of 5]

Lobrano grew up in Westport, CT, where I lived for many years, then went on to London and eventually Paris where he became a highly-regarded restaurant reviewer and food critic. I loved the way he talks about food and was even more intrigued with some questions he raises such as “What were your favorite foods growing up?” And “Where did your palate come from?”

[Debracord · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good story about the story of the love of food, but the descriptions of the cuisine were what kept me reading. One story, one assignment, one conversation about food and it really draws you to the basis for a good life. If you have a full belly and better yet full experiences, that is what is fills your plate.

I want to read other books by Lobrano.

[Lua · Rating 4 out of 5]

Paris and food - what's not to like? I loved the author's story of going to the cheese restaurant Androuet and trying to interview the owner before he could speak much French. "J'ai mange ma famille ici" he told M. Androuet enthusiastically - which translates to "I ate my family here."

[Molly · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm ready to go to Paris and eat!

[Aimee Truchan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Quel livre charmant! J'ai adoré ce livre à cause de la belle langue et des descriptions enchanteresses de la cuisine française. C'est une histoire d'amour.

[Donna Boyd · Rating 5 out of 5]

Thank you to NetGalley, the author, and the publisher for providing me with a digital copy of this book prior to publication in exchange for my review. My Place at the Table: A Recipe for a Delicious Life in Paris by Alexander Lobrano is a memoir about how he went from a being a gay kid from the Connecticut suburbs to becoming one of the most influential food critics in Paris. Lobrano discovered that he loved French food when he first tasted frisee aux lardons and boeuf bourguignon while on a family trip to Paris when he was fifteen. Eventually he took a job with Women's Wear Daily because it allowed him to move to Paris. The story of how he got from being a fashion writer to becoming the restaurant critic at one of the largest newspapers in France is a story well worth reading and the list at the back of the book of his 30 favorite Paris restaurants is a welcome bonus. I highly recommend the book.

[KelleReads · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved every moment spent in Alec’s good company. Of course there are memories of meals and some famous names from the food world, but there is so much more in these pages. It is the story of finding ones’s place in the world, both figuratively and geographically.

There were so many moments I laughed out loud and a few that broke my heart. Reading this book is like spending time with a dear friend who happens to be an excellent raconteur with a wise heart, an infectious sense of humor and a great passion for life.

[Michelle W. - Sweaters & Stilettos · Rating 4 out of 5]

Many thanks to the publisher and NetGalley for this memoir. I specifically requested this book because of COVID; that is, I hoped it would be a lovely escape that would, if not mimic, at least give me a bit of the pleasure of travel back. It did and I would recommend it for that reason alone in these continually gloomy times.

COVID aside, this was a lovely little look into the life of someone who has successfully forged their own path. The novel is an easy read. Each chapter is a bite-sized look at a particular memory. The writing is fluid and descriptive while resting at the border of flowery. I enjoyed the easy pace, but it didn't provoke or demand. The impression is that the author wrote this as much for himself as for the reader. A position that commands respect from this particular reader for not coming across as arrogant or self-congratulatory. The addition of years would have helped greatly, though. It was difficult trying to figure out when things were occurring; I assumed the chapters followed a forward progression. The last few chapters deviate from this and include vague references to the year. A strange, but welcome departure.

Unlike most people, I am not in love with Paris. Paris is a place I neither like nor dislike; I've only been once many years ago. It's always been like the Popular Kids to me. Full of fashionable, but aloof people, who if they don't consciously consider themselves above you, their sub-conscious projects this through their mannerisms etc. The author does not agree. He falls in love with Paris early on in his life and moves there at the first opportunity. Seeing it through his eyes is a new look at a place. I don't think I'd go straight to "welcoming", but Mr. Lobrano gives the impression of an easy transition where he can finally become himself. This is always a good story for me. I love a happy ending and I may be a bit more enamored of Paris (and France as a whole) than I was before.

The narrative is also peppered with interesting people, who he describes so well I almost feel like I've met them. (It does not hurt that I can also google many of these famous names.) Yet, it's not the celebrities that I most enjoyed, but the chefs. He describes the chefs and their restaurants in detail. And then, of course, he describes the food.

Don't read while you're hungry. Some of the meals sound so good my mouth was watering. The recipes are delightful and described in full-length glory. It’s easy to imagine yourself sitting in these cafes with a glass of wine enjoying the simple company of a good meal. It’s escapism; pure and simple. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Now, if only I could visit Paris sometime soon; it’s definitely worth a new trip based on this memoir alone.

[Kiersten · Rating 4 out of 5]

My Place at the Table is the first memoir by self-described suburban Connecticut kid Alec Lobrano, who through his own grit and determination, transformed himself into one of France's most respected food critics.

Lobrano, who curiously seemed to care not a bit about fashion, used a fashion editor position to make his way to Paris, and pave his own way into the food world, by pushing the boundaries of his assignments; meanwhile, educating himself on French food, one meal at a time through a number of unexpected sources, his first landlady, neighbors, salty upstart and established chefs...

The book is a love letter not only to his adopted home of Paris (though perhaps not so much its high society crowd), but to the chefs and restaurant staff who tend to the serious business of food within in. While Lobrano treats us to many of the innovative and groundbreaking meals in bistros and fine dining establishments, many take root in generations-old family recipes, the simple country food of Normandy, Alsace, Archeche, the Basque region...

We also get a glimpse of his heartbreaking childhood, the son of an heir to the Drake Baking Company and an accountant, who desperately want to mold him into a more "normal" boy, all the while hiding a disturbing family secret. One strategy is to send him on a summer-long cross-country boys camping trip, where he ironically develops not only a taste for solitude, but for local cuisine beyond the white bread world of Connecticut.

This dysfunctional childhood full of odd characters gives us insight into his handling of encounters with such legendary figures as Yves St. Laurent, Helene de Rothschild, Giorgio Armani, though the most charming of all, a disastrous lunch brokered by his mother with Ruth Reichl. That his mother "acted like a puppy digging up a just-planted garden" bonds the two of them, leading to his most plum and coveted of assignments, for the now-dearly departed Gourmet magazine.

An unexpected bonus is the inclusion of Lobrano's Little Black Book, of his favorite Paris restaurants, ranging from "shockingly expensive' to the very humble. A quick Internet survey shows most of these are still at least operating on a takeaway basis, so will hopefully be there when we all eventually get there!

4.5 stars, rounded down. Entirely possible that over time and further reflection, it evolves into a 5...

Thank you to NetGalley, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, and the author for the ARC in exchange for my honest review.

[Connie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Alec Lobrano is an American who grew up in the northeast. He knew at a young age that food was very important to him and enjoyed learning about it.

Not too long after college, Alec moved to Paris which had drawn him for years. His first in Paris was at Women’s Wear Daily in the menswear section even though he had no knowledge of the subject, nor did he care about it. He wanted to write about food. Slowly, he began getting assignments to visit cheesemakers, chefs, markets, and finally reviewing restaurants. Through the many people and chefs in the food industry, he learned about the origin of French food and how it all came together to make glorious dishes.

Alec meets extraordinary chefs who are willing to share their knowledge of the food and the areas of France that have the best. While some restaurant owners tried to intimidate Alec if his reviews weren’t to their satisfaction, he refused to give in and change his review to satisfy their egos.

I was drawn to and mesmerized by this book because I lived in Paris for six wonderful years and my passion was French food. It’s an experience where one never stops learning. You can find delicious dishes in the most out of the way places, in addition to insipid and overpriced dishes at big name restaurants. Learning to navigate the markets is a challenge and a joy. The food you find is the freshest anywhere. It is brought to market in the very early hours of the morning and set out for customers to select the very best. French cooking is not only an art but it is done with love.

His story of the nasty Portuguese concierge brings back memories. Ours was just mean too. I also enjoyed his chats with Ruth Reichel whom I followed online because her newsletters were so interesting. At the end of the book, readers will find a listing of restaurants in Paris that range from inexpensive to expensive. The author gives a brief synopsis of his favorite dishes at each, the address, and average price range. A totally delightful book. Don’t miss it.

Copy provided by NetGalley in exchange for a fair and honest review.

[Alarie · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was a gift book from last Christmas that I finally got around to reading, and it turned out to be one of my favorite books of the year. The friend who gave it knew that I was a foodie, pretty good cook, and Francophile. Those were all good reasons for me to enjoy this book, but there are plenty of articles on food that are too stiff or snooty. Lobrano took a giant leap of faith to take off for Paris, expecting to be able to support himself as a writer when he barely knew any French. While he did know that he loved food and wanted to learn more about it, he was a rank beginner. The odds were stacked against him, especially since the publishers giving him his break wanted him to write about fashion, which he knew even less about and had no passion for. Lobrano was one determined, focused guy, determined to make his way.

Obviously, there were many reasons for him to fail or to write a woe is me book. Fortunately for readers, he is a self-deprecating guy, willing to admit his own foibles and laugh at himself. He knew that praising a French chef for his cuisine and asking questions was the quickest way to get supporters and free help. His interviews and conversations are often hilarious.

While this memoir is primarily about Lobrano’s bold, determined course to become a food writer. There are poignant flashbacks to his less than happy childhood. Most writers discover they enjoyed writing or got praised for it as a child. Lorano’s essay about “The Most Perfect Sandwich” was remarkably good and touching for a second grader. His teacher gave him an A. His father asked, “How could you write such a dumbbell paper?” Great job of instilling confidence in a child, Dad– no wonder your son was so eager to break out on his own.


[Nikki Sowell · Rating 4 out of 5]

Received a free copy as part of a Goodreads giveaway. Here is my honest review.

Trigger warning and a bit of a spoiler: molestation of minor/sexual assault

I really enjoyed this book. As a foodie, this was an exciting read for me. I also enjoyed learning about the author's life and his journey to becoming a restaurant reviewer. It is very apparent he has a love affair with food. I appreciated the way he talked about the food even if I didn't understand the French vocabulary.

As others have mentioned, there is a bit of name dropping in the book, but I think the author balances it with knowledge of the person/people. I loved that he didn't realize until part of the way through the conversation he was speaking to Julia Child.

[Susan · Rating 3 out of 5]

After reading about this book in a catalog, I got it from my local library. It sounded entertaining and intriguing to read how a young man from America became an influential food/restaurant critic in France. It was an entertaining book. Mr. Lobrano's writing was easy to read and portions were quite amusing. If one doesn't enjoy reading about food (and ingredients many Americans do NOT eat on a regular basis), then this book will not be enjoyable. Mr. Lobrano met quite a few well-known people along his journey and seems to have kept his head screwed on straight in spite of that. It is obvious he gets a great deal of pleasure out of food. And a few dishes did sound really good-but as I am not a fan of mushrooms or organs, I am not sure I would enjoy many of the dishes described.

[Susan McBeth (Adventures by the Book) · Rating 5 out of 5]

Alec Lobrano's reflections on his life in his new memoir, My Place at the Table, are as delectable, sumptuous, and satisfying as the exquisite food he has written about as one of the world's premiere food critics. His word pairings are as much a feast for the senses as the food he writes about. Just one of many examples: "The oysters arrived, and the architecture of the meal I'd constructed quieted my mind. The iodine-rich rush of the fleshy oysters braced me for the future, while the wine blunted my fear of it, and the melted butter the sole had bathed in was soft balm for my sadness." I feasted on this gorgeous book for only 2 days, because I couldn't help but gorge myself.

[Don Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

An engaging account of how Alexander Lobrano became an important food critic in Paris. More than that, however, it is the story of the emergence of a young boy who becomes a man in one of the greatest cities in the world. He overcomes many handicaps including language (he speaks terrible French), knowledge (he know very little about his subjects at first), and loneliness (he makes some terrible choices for partners). The book is detailed particularly when he writes about food which made me envious that he would get paid to eat! It was a quick read, but delightful at times and poignant at others. Thoroughly enjoyable.

[Jeimy · Rating 5 out of 5]

I started to read this book because I was going to an author event at Artisan Cheese Company, but before I knew it I was lost in the narrative. While this is the author's first book his expertise as a wordsmith, the restaurant critic is a recipient of a James Beard Award, is evident in this memoir.

I was expecting the book to be about how he became a restaurant critic, and it is that, but it is so much more. It is about the people and experiences that shaped him as a man and as the book progresses you realize that the titular table is also a metaphor for coming into himself and finding where he belongs.

[Trudy Zufelt · Rating 3 out of 5]

Alex Lobrano chronicles his life from a boy in Connecticut to a food critic in Paris. For those who love reading about food and Paris, the author paints a descriptive picture of the food experience in France. I especially enjoyed the great local finds.

Though well written and descriptive, this just didn't resonate with me. I thought it would make me want to visit France or at least get me excited to try some French recipes but it did neither. I was more interested in the story behind how Alex ended up a food critic in the first place. Overall, for those who like to read about food and haute cuisine, this may be fore you.

[Linda Cousens · Rating 4 out of 5]

Alex realizes at a young age that he is somehow different from other kids. He has no interest in the 'male' sports his father tries to push him into. But he does like food. Longing to escape his home in Connecticut, he leaves as soon as possible to his dream home in Paris after securing a job at Women's Wear Daily. He has no interest in the job, he just wants to live in Paris and become a food critic.
Alex starts dating men and going to every restaurant he can afford on his small salary.
If you love French food, you will likely love this story. There are some delicious recipes at the end of the book too.