Like a good dining experience, I came for the food and stayed for the conversation.
Su’s ability to display multiple cultures' ideologies at once without forcing the reader to label one as better or more ethical helps the reader understand that Su writes from a place of love that extends to food and all people. Her poems meditate on complex dilemmas such as being caught between the bittersweetness of childhood ignorance and respecting the ideologies associated with “grass fed” beef or veganism. The poem “The End of Meat” displays how two different cultures refer to the “end of meat” and how the speaker understands and values both, although they appear to be opposing.
The speaker in Peach State is torn between a love of different places, different food cultures, different generational and ethical food ideologies, exhibited in the book's final line, “the only home you know.” Su's "home" is not a singular home but is built from a variety of cultural experiences. This final statement makes the reader question whether we can enjoy being a part of multiple types of “homes” even if we can’t dwell there all the time. Su presents us with internal conflicts that different traditions bring to those who enjoy all, who have experienced much and feel no need to pick a favorite. A similar concept is found in the poem “Xiaolongbao” as the speaker would like to “name it all,” “all” referring to new food, family, and tradition as well as the traditions that have been lost and therefore “unnamed” because of distance and time. Odes are often exclusionary, but Su writes odes that also function as laments: Because being a lover of so many types of food, they can't all be eaten at once.
Su celebrates family and tradition itself. The reader discovers that family tradition around any food is the point, not the food itself. The poem “Doughnuts” (97) depicts the mixing and changing of family traditions as “tofu” is replaced by Krispy Kreme across three generations. The loss of certain traditional foods, like in her poem “Red Bean Soup,” are not just about a loss of a food, but about the loss of the connection that the food could have brought. The kitchen as a means of community connection is also highlighted in the poem “The Lazy Suzan.” Su connects the kitchen table to a “fire,” a place that warms food, people, conversation, and builds relationships.
Throughout Peach State, Su uses humor to deconstruct stereotypes that are meant to hurt. Poems like “Name that Restaurant” and “I Didn’t Know Aiiieeeee, But It Knew Me” remind me of her “Asian Driver” poems in Sanctuary (2006). Readers can’t help but laugh, then are forced to contemplate what is funny. Su succeeds with these poems because they don’t leave the audience feeling racist for laughing. Instead, she uses these poems to clearly display how illogical racism is.
Some of the strongest poems in the collection rely on long epigraphs, which provide cultural background knowledge for the reader. “Across-the-Bridge Noodles” connects the legend of the Yunnanese dish to the contemporary American household, showing that love for spouse and food transcends ideas about ancient or contemporary gender roles. This poem is a good example of how although Su sometimes uses academic diction, like “unfeminist” or “scholarly,” her allegiance lies with how food can bring people together.
By showing her love of all types of food, Su avoids didactic history lessons or preachy food ethics. Poems like “Tea Eggs” (34) show how difficult it is to introduce others to new ideas they have never “tasted” before. The poem also highlights the heartache and irony of when this thoughtless rejection happens in the classroom, a place that should represent curiosity and discovery.
Su provides readers new ways to view the severity of history that is often hard to face by using food as a recurring metaphor to criticize the historical inhumane treatment of immigrants . In “Kiwifruit” (13) readers learn that over the past century “immigrant” food has been more quickly accepted into American culture than immigrant people.
Su uses poetic form as a tool to deal with tough historical subject matter. In “Ginger” she rhymes the reader into horror. The poem begin playfully but ends with a criticism of “barbaric… persecution.” Peach State displays how Su masterfully controls the tone of each poem, as well as the tone of the book as a whole. Through tonal variety, Su is able to avoid food cliches and also avoid the pitfalls that often ensnare authors who write about the suffering of minority populations.
I expected protest poems from Peach State and was pleased to find them, but what I remember most are the poems like “Lychee Express” in which Su shows what different food has meant to different classes of people throughout history. Readers learn how local food, once “peasant” food, is now expensive, whereas food hauled from far off that used to be exotic is now cheap and abundant in grocery stores. The poem introduces the idea that how we think about food depends on our time in history.