Fresh scones, still warm from the oven, are part and parcel of the delicious teas of our childhoods. No one seems to make them nowadays; instead, they buy terrible things in supermarkets tasting of soda and studded with soggy fruits. Scones take but a moment, so do try them.
1 2/3 cups self rising flour small pinch of salt 4 tablespoons butter 2/3 cup milk, fresh or buttermilk.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl. Rub in the butter with your fingertips until it all resembles crumbs. Mix in the milk. Form into a soft dough with a metal spatula. Knead lightly on a floured board, then pat out into a round 3/4 inch thick. Cut into 2-inch rounds with a cutter.
Place the rounds on a greased and floured baking sheet and brush with milk. Bake for 10 minutes until well risen and brown. Cool on a rack, but eat when still warm, with lots of butter, clotted cream, and jam. Yummo.
Variations: Fruit scones: Add 1/3 cup dried fruit and 2 tablespoons superfine sugar. Savory scones: Add 3/4 cup grated hard cheese and 1 teaspoon dry mustard, or 1/3 cup minced olives, anchovies, or what you fancy.
This is the second series of books that I rediscovered during the early months of COVID lock-down, The Two Fat Ladies. My mind is blank about how I gravitated to this one, maybe because of a book at home, or looking longingly at a collection of VHS tapes, and no longer having a recorder. Thank heavens for the internet where I found snippets and full episodes of the old TV programs with these two remarkable women. Apparently you can also find their programs on the TV Food Network. However, the Los Angeles Public Library owns the complete series on DVD. Way back when Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright first appeared in the United States, it was on a PBS cooking program, and they were an immediate sensation for several reasons. At that time no one would ever refer to themselves as “fat” or wanted to be known that way. The personalities and life experiences of these two women far exceeded their physicality. Lastly, they were themselves: unique, witty, fascinating and unpredictable. In today's TV-land it seems many presenters purposely try to be sensational, whereas Jennifer and Clarissa simply were. In short order, they were on tours of the United States; appeared on late night TV; spoofed on SNL; and in Australia, fans waited in long lines to have books autographed.
The idea for the program came from television producer Patricia Llewellyn, who knew both women and introduced them to each other.
Clarissa’s thoughts about the program’s title:
“We don’t mind ‘Two', and there’s nothing wrong with ‘Fat’, but we don’t like ‘Ladies’. It makes us sound like a public convenience.”
Producer Patricia Llewellyn’s thoughts about the two women:
“If anything, they are a little more toned down on screen than they are in the flesh.”
“Everyone asks what they are like to work with. It would be dishonest to say that it was always easy … when your crew includes two loud-mouthed, bold-spirited presenters who are rather intolerant of bad cooking and do not believe in that rather English habit of never complaining."
“... in an industry where women’s success in front of the camera is mostly defined by youthful good looks and anodyne personalities, Jennifer and Clarissa’s success is an enormous achievement.”
Regarding the United States: Clarissa had some very definite ideas about America and was not that eager to visit, but Jennifer had lived in the United States and was a big fan of old American films.
In Hollywood, they were booked at the Chateau Marmont. Sitting at the bar, Patricia was excited when she spotted Keanu Reeves across the room. Jennifer had no idea who was. When he was pointed out to Clarissa, she said, “Oh him. He’s the nice young man I’ve been chatting with beside the pool all afternoon. He never mentioned he was an actor. In fact, we talked about vegetables.”
Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dixon Wright did nothing but express themselves, as they tooled around England, Ireland and Scotland, on a black 1996 Triumph Thunderbird motorcycle with sidecar. Jennifer commandeered the bike with Clarissa in the sidecar. They would “drop in” at homes, restaurants, fishing villages, abbeys, churches, castles, embassies, motorcycle ralleys, church fêtes, in order to cook for other people. Neither of these women was formally trained, but each knew a great deal about food, food preparation, cooking and people. They had very definite opinions, some of which they agreed upon, others they did not. They agreed that the Americans and the Dutch had done too much work to make perfect-looking fruits and vegetables that were lacking in flavor and smell. Today, the women would would be aghast at anything that was GMO. To their way of thinking there was no substitute for "proper" (aka real) butter, cream, salt, and other specific ingredients; they had no patience with vegetarians and were adamant about the need for meat; supermarkets were deemed "palaces of hell' because there was nothing like local fish mongers, butchers, bakers, fresh fruit and vegetable stalls. While cooking in Mevagissey, and preparing scallops using local cream, Jennifer said, "There is no substitute for cream. Yogurt is for breakfast or a sick tummy." In addition to their candid opinions about food, Jennifer might suddenly quote from Shakespeare or Keats, or launch into a song from a musical. The programs were not long, about 30 to 40 minutes, and by necessity cooking programs must have an agenda. But those spur-of-the moment asides appear to be just that
They were candid with each other and with all of us. Each came from privileged backgrounds, although not necessarily contented families. Clarissa had been a barrister, and was a recovering alcoholic, overcoming a serious drinking problem. By contrast, Jennifer drank and smoked.
They promoted flavor, richness, and did not give a hoot about so-called healthy eating. And, in the end it was not the food that done 'em in, but other factors in their lives, which were done to excess: smoking and drinking. Having lived life on their own terms may have resulted in their somewhat early demises. Jennifer was an avid smoker and in many an episode, when outdoors, or at the end of an episode, she had a ciggy in her bejeweled fingers that had beautifully manicured nails, polished bright red. In 1999, at the age of 71, Jennifer Paterson was diagnosed with advanced lung cancer, and as a devout Catholic was ready for whatever came next. She had a very brief stay in hospital, where she was visited by some of the very well-known, with whom she had socialized and/or cooked for. Prince Charles, for whom she had cooked, sent her "a vat of organic soup and ice cream from his private kitchens along with a hand-written note." In the preface to Two Fat Ladies Obsessions, Patricia Llewellyn recounts Jennifer's escapades and hijinks, which continued in the hospital and to the very end of her life. Jennifer died on August 10, which was the feast day of St. Laurence, patron saint of cooks. Clarissa Dickson Wright was younger than Paterson and soldiered on for about ten more years, writing books about food and lecturing. She was 66 years old, and as a recovering alcoholic had some physical ailments that resulted from her years of heavy drinking.
Something to keep in mind before cooking or baking anything from the books or programs. First came the television programs and then came the books. In doing research for this review, I found an article that was somewhat critical of the reliability of some of the recipes. Although the women were British, the food is not solely British. Jennifer favored Italian cooking and Clarissa's interest was Southeast Asia. On the TV programs, either woman would say add "a slosh" or "a slurp" of something. I have never baked anything using their recipes, but I have cooked some main dishes and prepared cold foods. So cooks beware before venturing forth with some of these recipes, or "receipts" as Jenifer called them. Take into consideration Britishisms, e.g., faggots are sausages; papals are slipppers. British cooking ingredients that I find intriguing: pickled walnuts and anchovy essence. The terminologies for different types of creams, flours and sugars are different from ours. A good deal of the mixing, especially for baking, was done by hand. Many stoves are the British AGA, but accommodations are noted for regular cooktops. The WI or Women's Institute, a venerable organization, was lauded by Jennifer and Clarissa.
It's all there, in the books and the TV programs. In the evenings, two years ago, they brought a great deal of joyful distraction and still do, for me and others. Recently checking a website, many viewers' comments were made in recent months. Thank you so much: Jennifer and Clarissa, and Patricia who brought them and us together. In the spirit of the endings of most programs, after making some sparkling remarks, they would toast each other, "To your very good health!" which I say to all three of them.
Reviewed by Sheryn Morris, Librarian, Literature & Fiction
I just love the two fat ladies. I loved their cooking show when I watched it all the time back in college, I love the interesting lives they've led, I love that they love food, I love their confident self assured personalities, I love their sense of humor, I love what they cook and I love reading their four cookbooks. None of which makes any sense to me because these two could not be more opposite me. Except that I love food too, but even the food I love is completely different that what they like. I go for the fruit & desserts neither of which they are fond of and they go for the wild game birds, butter, caviar, raw oysters, meat, meat, meat and butter. I remember watching their show with fascination and my jaw dropped as they made this meat dish with meat, probably some organ meat, probably some butter too and Clarissa packed it into a cooking dish and covered it with streaky bacon. All their cooking is like that - stuff I would never cook in a million years and most likely would never order to eat. There were actually only two dishes in all of their cookbooks that I though "Oh, I'd like to try that". One was spinach and rice and the other was a salmon dish (which I probably eat once a year). But, what I hadn't realized from their show (being so focused on the novelty to me of cooked pheasant or eel or whole sheep roasted on an outside spit) is they really are snobby gourmet cooks who hate and don't shop at supermarkets, think fast food is the worst thing to happen to food ever, they know their food, and they also really like fresh from the garden or market vegetables (with butter, of course). I just loved reading their cookbooks, -- their comments on the recipe, what they would serve with it, what it meant to them, where it came from, etc as well as the snippets of personal information.
If I had the leisure time to watch these ladies on Food Network, I'm sure I would enjoy learning from and about them. As it is, their cooking is completely beyond me. First off, they're British and most of what they prepare is not to be found where I shop. They appear to be very inventive, which I think is a good quality, but beyond my aspirations.
Having said all that, I must add that I like their chatty style. For instance, their instructions for "Bubble and Squeak" (one recipe I intend to attempt) begins: "I once lived with a man who could be stopped in midsentence of even the most savage argument if I started making this dish. You may imagine I am something of an expert at it. There are three things to remember : 1. There is no substitute for lard or beef drippings -- if you object, eat something else. 2. You need a really heavy frying pan. 3. The potatoes must be cold before you start."
There are "game" recipes included. Last week my husband informed me that someone is giving him some venison. So I am tucking away their "Haunch of Venison in Cider" recipe -- just in case.
This book gets five stars because I can't look at it without remembering the lovely time Sean and I had watching their show on tv. The recipes are chock-full of ingredients and instructions I don't intend to procure or follow, but I still like to leaf through it somewhat wistfully. They were two fat ladies for a reason! My goodness they like to dollop in the cream.
I love the Two Fat Ladies and used to watch them all the time on PBS (may Jennifer Paterson rest in peace) on their motorcycle with the sidecar. I gave this 3 stars for personality but the recipes are fattening and old world French. I'm never going to make a rabbit stew. Never.
This was a bbc series before food network which should be pointed out. Lots of re pies involve things not easily available in the here and now vs the 90s whence this dates. I enjoyed the show and the book is interesting but not something to actually cook from
I read the first book in the series of four after reading Allison's motivating review. It was a fun read. There were plenty of interesting comments and pictures. The 'ladies' really do have a good time cooking and have wide interests in food. The English terms (fishmonger, greengrocer, etc.) made you know it wasn't an all-American cookbook. Lots of recipes for game, including pheasant, quail, grouse. I'd like to try the Bubble and Squeak (potatoes with lard, cabbage or Brussel sprouts). I even copied the recipe for scones, having eaten some good scones this past year at a home tea party and tea house restaurant. That continues my tradition of collecting more recipes than I intend to use.
Their television show was so charming and their cooking looked so good, I had to have this. Unfortunately, it had all the hallmarks of hasty creation to cash in on their popularity. I gave it away a few years after I bought it and I never even tried any recipe.