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Longue Marche #2
Walking to Samarkand: The Great Silk Road from Persia to Central Asia
Acclaimed journalist Bernard Ollivier continues his epic journey across Persia and Central Asia as he walks the length of the Great Silk Road.
Walking to Samarkand is journalist Bernard Ollivier’s stunning account of the second leg of his 7,200-mile walk from Istanbul, Turkey, to Xi’an, China, along the Silk Road--the longest and perhaps most mythical trade route of all time. Picking up where Out of Istanbul left off, Ollivier heads out of the Middle East and into Central Asia, grappling not only with his own will to continue but with new, unforeseen dangers.
After crossing the final mountain passes of Turkish Kurdistan, Ollivier sets foot in Iran, keen on locating vestiges of the silk trade as he passes through Persia’s modern cities and traditional villages, including Tabriz, Tehran, Nishapur, and the holy city of Mashhad. Beyond urban areas lie deserts: first Iran’s Great Salt Desert, then Turkmenistan’s forbidding Karakum, whose relentless sun, snakes, and scorpions pose continuous challenges to Ollivier’s goal of reaching Uzbekistan.
Setting his own fears aside, he travels on, wonderstruck at every turn, borne by a childhood dream: to see for himself the golden domes and turquoise skies of Samarkand, one of Central Asia’s most ancient cities. But what Ollivier enjoys most are the people along the way: Askar, the hospitable gardener; the pilgrims of Mashhad; and his knights in shining armor, Mehdi and Monir. For, despite setting out alone, he comes to find that walking itself—through a kind of alchemy—surrounds him with friends and fosters fellowship.
From the authoritarian mullahs of revolutionary Iran to the warm welcome of everyday Iranians—custodians of age-old, cordial Persian culture; from the stark realities of former Soviet republics to the region’s legendary bazaars—veritable feasts for the senses—readers discover, through the eyes of a veteran journalist, the rich history and contemporary culture of these amazing lands.
Walking to Samarkand is journalist Bernard Ollivier’s stunning account of the second leg of his 7,200-mile walk from Istanbul, Turkey, to Xi’an, China, along the Silk Road--the longest and perhaps most mythical trade route of all time. Picking up where Out of Istanbul left off, Ollivier heads out of the Middle East and into Central Asia, grappling not only with his own will to continue but with new, unforeseen dangers.
After crossing the final mountain passes of Turkish Kurdistan, Ollivier sets foot in Iran, keen on locating vestiges of the silk trade as he passes through Persia’s modern cities and traditional villages, including Tabriz, Tehran, Nishapur, and the holy city of Mashhad. Beyond urban areas lie deserts: first Iran’s Great Salt Desert, then Turkmenistan’s forbidding Karakum, whose relentless sun, snakes, and scorpions pose continuous challenges to Ollivier’s goal of reaching Uzbekistan.
Setting his own fears aside, he travels on, wonderstruck at every turn, borne by a childhood dream: to see for himself the golden domes and turquoise skies of Samarkand, one of Central Asia’s most ancient cities. But what Ollivier enjoys most are the people along the way: Askar, the hospitable gardener; the pilgrims of Mashhad; and his knights in shining armor, Mehdi and Monir. For, despite setting out alone, he comes to find that walking itself—through a kind of alchemy—surrounds him with friends and fosters fellowship.
From the authoritarian mullahs of revolutionary Iran to the warm welcome of everyday Iranians—custodians of age-old, cordial Persian culture; from the stark realities of former Soviet republics to the region’s legendary bazaars—veritable feasts for the senses—readers discover, through the eyes of a veteran journalist, the rich history and contemporary culture of these amazing lands.
336 pages, Kindle Edition
Published April 14, 2020
192 people are currently reading
605 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 80 reviews
March 5, 2023
Journalist Bernard Ollivier journeys across Iran to Samarkand on foot along the Great Silk Road - the ancient road that goes back to the 2nd century BCE - the epitome of trade and travel crisscrossing from Turkey and Italy in the West to China, Korea, and Japan in the East. I loved the people he encounters along the way - most hospitable and inviting, some not so much. The richness of his encounters come through in the interactions with people along the way, culture, food, and life in general. We feel we are there journeying with him - sweating under the intense sun, cooling off under the shade of a tree, sharing a meal with the locals. And we share his frustration as he loses his precious camera, orders a new one - and then goes a few marathon rounds to claim it. And ENVI is another living thing altogether! Apart from living vicariously through him, it is a tremendous feat he undertakes - walking the path that millions before him have done in past centuries - a grueling and arduous journey that he was tempted many times to abandon, but yet persevered. I would love to see a movie made of his journey. The writing kept me entertained and the stories shone a light on the people and cultures I may never meet and experience but through Bernard Ollivier’s book have a bit of an insight into - expanding my horizons. An enjoyable and well-worth the read opportunity! Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for the opportunity to read and review this book.
May 6, 2021
This is the second book of Ollivier’s solo walk of 12,000 miles along the old Silk Road. Staring in Iran he takes us on his journey where he meets a melting pot of nationalities, religions and political persuasions. His views on the various tribes were the highlight as well as his knowledge of the history of Central Asia.
His walk was amazing. In his early 60s, reliant on the hospitality of strangers for accommodation and meals, carrying only a backpack (later he was able to get a small cart to carry his gear especially water), travelling through deserts in summer an dealing with police who wanted to fleece him and being constantly stopped with offers to give him a lift..
As a good Frenchman he comments a lot on the food and the appearance of women.
His walk was amazing. In his early 60s, reliant on the hospitality of strangers for accommodation and meals, carrying only a backpack (later he was able to get a small cart to carry his gear especially water), travelling through deserts in summer an dealing with police who wanted to fleece him and being constantly stopped with offers to give him a lift..
As a good Frenchman he comments a lot on the food and the appearance of women.
October 18, 2022
More a history than an adventure and to be honest I found both the layout and prose confusing. And, I had the sense that the construction of this book was built upon an attempt to make the work 'stand-out-from-crowd' (as there are already many books on the subject up for offer) rather than an attempt to provide a more comprehendible narrative.
Within it all is a good deal of information, which I found difficult to logically arrange and could be provided in a far more clear and precise manner.
Within it all is a good deal of information, which I found difficult to logically arrange and could be provided in a far more clear and precise manner.
January 16, 2024
French journalist Bernard Ollivier’s memoir about his travels through parts of Turkey, Iran, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. In 1999, Bernard Ollivier set out to travel the Great Silk Road on foot. I previously read his first installment, Out of Istanbul, which took him across Turkey almost to the border with Iran, where he fell ill and had to retire from his journey. This book picks up the next year, where he left off, and ends in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
Ollivier’s style is lively and conversational. He serves as both tour guide, cultural liaison, and a pair of eyes visiting parts of the world that many of us will never see. Along his way, he meets a variety of individuals, some of whom are kind and welcoming, others are out to take advantage (particularly a few corrupt officials). We vicariously visit caravansaries, borders, and villages. Ollivier is anxious to interact with the people, and many offer him hospitality. His descriptions of the scenery make the terrain easy to picture. One of the highlights is the crossing of the Karakum Desert in Turkmenistan, with all its attendant hazards. He also had to design and build a device to carry his supplies.
He is much better prepared on this trip, and attempts to rest more, eat healthier, and carry a supply of water to guard against dehydration. He shares the history of the region and the (at the time) present state of affairs, and changes that have taken place over time. He includes a wide variety of details regarding the cultures, languages, and people of the region in a concise 300 pages. I tend to enjoy travel memoirs, and this one was a pleasure to read, taking me to places I will never physically visit. Highly recommended to my fellow armchair travelers.
Ollivier’s style is lively and conversational. He serves as both tour guide, cultural liaison, and a pair of eyes visiting parts of the world that many of us will never see. Along his way, he meets a variety of individuals, some of whom are kind and welcoming, others are out to take advantage (particularly a few corrupt officials). We vicariously visit caravansaries, borders, and villages. Ollivier is anxious to interact with the people, and many offer him hospitality. His descriptions of the scenery make the terrain easy to picture. One of the highlights is the crossing of the Karakum Desert in Turkmenistan, with all its attendant hazards. He also had to design and build a device to carry his supplies.
He is much better prepared on this trip, and attempts to rest more, eat healthier, and carry a supply of water to guard against dehydration. He shares the history of the region and the (at the time) present state of affairs, and changes that have taken place over time. He includes a wide variety of details regarding the cultures, languages, and people of the region in a concise 300 pages. I tend to enjoy travel memoirs, and this one was a pleasure to read, taking me to places I will never physically visit. Highly recommended to my fellow armchair travelers.
February 26, 2021
2021 bk 29. If you pick up this book without reading the first - go back. Get Out of Istanbul, it will be worth the wait. This book starts the year after the first one ends, still not quite recovered from the dysentary, Ollivier flies back to Turkey and takes off on foot from the spot where the last book ended. Most of this book deals with his walk through Iran, where just about everyone is curious about the walking Frenchman and either offer him a ride (which he refuses politely) or food and a place to spend the night. He makes some good friends, stays as apolitical as he can, and I believe enjoyed his time in Iran more than he did Turkey. Turkmenistan -I believe was far more dangerous than her first thought and the danger seemed to come mostly from the police. There are beautiful sights to be seen in Turkmentistan - dating to the Khans and before, but the country has not developed them, nor developed the culture of trust that must exist for tourism to work. A wonderful read about places not frequently visited.
December 18, 2024
Bernard Ollivier picks up his walk along the Silk Road at the point he was forced to abandon it due to illness in vol. 1: a few kilometers from the border of Turkey and Iran. He's still not fully recovered from the prior year's dysentary, but he's prepared and determined to win through to Samarkand, Uzbekistan, including the leg from Turkish border to Tehran he did not make last year.
In fact he is better prepared -- both with things like a bigger first aid kit, but also the realization that he must fight his tendency to push on and farther, not resting as needed. That's both an aspect of his nature, but also a high or rapture that happens with distance runners and walkers. He also has far more trepidation - less naive - about the walk and what he will encounter. Definitely there's a real respect for upcoming difficulties -- he's got deserts to cross in summer.
Iran is a revelation -- and contains one caravanserai after another, many still in use, which is one of Bernard's interests and in some way the impetus for the walk. I ended up down a lot of google rabbit holes looking at stunning photos and starting to wonder if a visit to Iran needs to go on my travel wish list - I adore ruins and historical sites. Plus there were all the great dishes he described eating ... where's my Persian cookbook?
I was totally engaged from page one, staying up too late to walk along with Bernard. I have no doubt that in a couple of months, I'll read the third volume detailing the end of his Silk Road walk.
In fact he is better prepared -- both with things like a bigger first aid kit, but also the realization that he must fight his tendency to push on and farther, not resting as needed. That's both an aspect of his nature, but also a high or rapture that happens with distance runners and walkers. He also has far more trepidation - less naive - about the walk and what he will encounter. Definitely there's a real respect for upcoming difficulties -- he's got deserts to cross in summer.
Iran is a revelation -- and contains one caravanserai after another, many still in use, which is one of Bernard's interests and in some way the impetus for the walk. I ended up down a lot of google rabbit holes looking at stunning photos and starting to wonder if a visit to Iran needs to go on my travel wish list - I adore ruins and historical sites. Plus there were all the great dishes he described eating ... where's my Persian cookbook?
I was totally engaged from page one, staying up too late to walk along with Bernard. I have no doubt that in a couple of months, I'll read the third volume detailing the end of his Silk Road walk.
November 2, 2012
Prosegue il viaggio del giornalista in pensione e questa volta con lui attraversiamo, rigorosamente a piedi s'intende, Iran e Uzbekistan.
Un po' di ripetitività, tra l'ospitalità della gente incontrata per strada e qualche scontro con doganieri e polizia, fino al termine della tappa nella dorata Samarcanda.
Un po' di ripetitività, tra l'ospitalità della gente incontrata per strada e qualche scontro con doganieri e polizia, fino al termine della tappa nella dorata Samarcanda.
April 21, 2020
There are different kinds of travelers writing about their journeys. Some are completely immersed into the culture and the people they meet along the road. Sometimes, the human encounters are a welcomed contradiction to the usual image that media and cultural representations are projecting upon a group of people or a whole country. Some other travelers are on the road with a plan: they want to see every country in the world, and as we all know, life is short therefore they need to do it fast, at the expense of spending enough time in a place to really get familiar with a culture and society; some visit in specific circumstances - to reconnect with their family or literary stories; some do it because they are interested to experience in a country in specific circumstances, like, for instance, walking across, or crossing on motorbike or bike.
Mid-May 2000, journalist Bernard Ollivier started a journey from Turkey to Uzbekistan, on foot. Or mostly on foot, as sometimes the weather conditions and the invitations to run in a car are more tempting, but this happens only in 5% of the cases. Thousands of kilometers by foot, crossing Iran and Turkmenistan, walking the Silk Road, an important economic destination in the region for centuries, that was resuscitated after 2 centuries of neglect recently, for various political, geopolitical and economic reasons. A welcomed reactualization from the point of view of the travel writing, as it brings back cultures and peoples neglected and misread due to repeated pre- and post-Cold War interpretations.
Walking to Samarkand (originally published in French and recently translated into English) is Olliver´s project of covering this part of the Silk Road, on the way to his childhood dream-destination: Samarkand. It is also a test of resilience and personal achievement, as walking saved his life from depression after the death of his wife. Therefore, the stakes of his travels: ´I want to free my body and mind from the limitations they´ve become to believe in; I would also like to free them from fear´.
Most part of the book thus has to do with various preparations and adventures encountered while walking, the physical limitations and challenges. It makes sense for the economy of the book but my interests/curiosities both as a traveler and travel writer are related to the reflections on culture and geography and eventually politics.
The majority of the time he spends crossing Iran - ´Everywhere I go, I´m amazed by the kindness and warmth of the people I meet´. ´Can anyone be more hospitable than an Iranian?´. - with relatively short passing by through Turmkenistan - where policy corruption and the personality cult are the most debated topics - and ending up, as scheduled, in Uzbekistan. While he is not planning carefully his next amount of miles for the day, he is reflecting on his priviledges and lessons learned: `(...) travel affords us with an unparallel opportunity to take a step back and see where we´re from in a new light`.
I felt missing from the writing a deep personal involvement with his travel experiences, a bit too dry for my taste. Maybe there were nuances lost in translation, but probably this is the way in which the writer himself chose to write about his journey. At a certain extent, it can be enough to make the reader interested in his or her own adventure or at least for starting to see this region through completely different eyes. Definitely, personal travel experiences and individual projects are doing much more for promoting a different kind of travel than the usual travel guides.
Rating: 3.5 stars
Disclaimer: Book offered by the publisher in exchange for an honest review
Mid-May 2000, journalist Bernard Ollivier started a journey from Turkey to Uzbekistan, on foot. Or mostly on foot, as sometimes the weather conditions and the invitations to run in a car are more tempting, but this happens only in 5% of the cases. Thousands of kilometers by foot, crossing Iran and Turkmenistan, walking the Silk Road, an important economic destination in the region for centuries, that was resuscitated after 2 centuries of neglect recently, for various political, geopolitical and economic reasons. A welcomed reactualization from the point of view of the travel writing, as it brings back cultures and peoples neglected and misread due to repeated pre- and post-Cold War interpretations.
Walking to Samarkand (originally published in French and recently translated into English) is Olliver´s project of covering this part of the Silk Road, on the way to his childhood dream-destination: Samarkand. It is also a test of resilience and personal achievement, as walking saved his life from depression after the death of his wife. Therefore, the stakes of his travels: ´I want to free my body and mind from the limitations they´ve become to believe in; I would also like to free them from fear´.
Most part of the book thus has to do with various preparations and adventures encountered while walking, the physical limitations and challenges. It makes sense for the economy of the book but my interests/curiosities both as a traveler and travel writer are related to the reflections on culture and geography and eventually politics.
The majority of the time he spends crossing Iran - ´Everywhere I go, I´m amazed by the kindness and warmth of the people I meet´. ´Can anyone be more hospitable than an Iranian?´. - with relatively short passing by through Turmkenistan - where policy corruption and the personality cult are the most debated topics - and ending up, as scheduled, in Uzbekistan. While he is not planning carefully his next amount of miles for the day, he is reflecting on his priviledges and lessons learned: `(...) travel affords us with an unparallel opportunity to take a step back and see where we´re from in a new light`.
I felt missing from the writing a deep personal involvement with his travel experiences, a bit too dry for my taste. Maybe there were nuances lost in translation, but probably this is the way in which the writer himself chose to write about his journey. At a certain extent, it can be enough to make the reader interested in his or her own adventure or at least for starting to see this region through completely different eyes. Definitely, personal travel experiences and individual projects are doing much more for promoting a different kind of travel than the usual travel guides.
Rating: 3.5 stars
Disclaimer: Book offered by the publisher in exchange for an honest review
March 26, 2020
AUTHOR
Bernard Ollivier is a French Author who has become the inspiration for a generation. Once he retired he decided that rather than embrace leisurely afternoons in one locations he preferred the adventure of travel primarily by self perambulation. 7,456 miles later we have the benefit of his experiences, his reflections, and his opinions gleaned on his journeys, in a range exquisitely written travelogues.
WHO IS THE TARGET AUDIENCE
All of those with an adventurous heart.
SYNOPSIS
With the aid of Dan Golembeski, the translator of Walking To Samarkand, Ollivier has managed to cram his personal account into a seemingly impossible 312 pages.
Ollivier whisks us away with him from Bazaar to Bukhara across oceanic desert through multiple borders, and caravansaries (old world Bed and Breakfast, B&B’s). Our journey transports us to the magnificence of Samarkand in all its rare beauty. Along the way he introduces us to a host of characters including; the Robber-Cop, the pilgrims on the road to Mash-had, the Turkmens of Tehran and a myriad of other fascinating strangers.
We accompany Ollivier though our minds eye. We see and fell through his senses. We experience the sounds, the sights and the sensations through his exquisite descriptions. We feel as the heat rises and the competing demands of balancing hydration against the weight of carrying the priceless water press heavily on his mind. There is even a fleeting chance of a romantic liaison.
After Ollivier’s enormous effort the city of bright water and colorful people is finally in sight, and what a sight she is. For a millennia, Samarkand was the apple in many a tyrant’s eye. From the Khanates of Burkkara and Kniva to the Achaemenid Kings they all shared a thirst for her water resources. Samarkand is the very definition of an oasis in the desert. She has stood on the Great Silk Road from the beginning. Today however, Samarkand stands on the Great Cotton Road. White Gold, as cotton is referred to, has replaced the spices and other valuables. The road has had many names in the past; including the Golden Road during the time of the Achaemenid Kings. Who knows what it will called in the future. What we can say is that whatever the road is called, Samarkand will almost certainly remain a jewel of the desert.
CONCLUSION
It was a joy, a pleasure and an honor to have accompanied Bernard Ollivier on his journey, all be it vicariously though the pages of his manuscript. The phrase that ‘travel broadens the mind‘ holds true. Ollivier includes a plethora of information about the culture, the language, and the people of the region. I am amazed he managed to consolidate all of his observations so succinctly. I can still sense the bustling Grand Bazaar, the heat of the day, and the sight of the once great Bibi-Khanym Mosque (now a UNESCO site).
If you have one adventurous bone in your body then you will love this journal. I heartily recommend Walking To Samarkand.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to thank Bernard Ollivier, NetGalley, and Skyhorse for affording me the opportunity to review Walking To Samarkand.
I would like to make a special acknowledgment to Dan Golembeski for the exceptional job of translating Walking To Samarkand.
Bernard Ollivier is a French Author who has become the inspiration for a generation. Once he retired he decided that rather than embrace leisurely afternoons in one locations he preferred the adventure of travel primarily by self perambulation. 7,456 miles later we have the benefit of his experiences, his reflections, and his opinions gleaned on his journeys, in a range exquisitely written travelogues.
WHO IS THE TARGET AUDIENCE
All of those with an adventurous heart.
SYNOPSIS
With the aid of Dan Golembeski, the translator of Walking To Samarkand, Ollivier has managed to cram his personal account into a seemingly impossible 312 pages.
Ollivier whisks us away with him from Bazaar to Bukhara across oceanic desert through multiple borders, and caravansaries (old world Bed and Breakfast, B&B’s). Our journey transports us to the magnificence of Samarkand in all its rare beauty. Along the way he introduces us to a host of characters including; the Robber-Cop, the pilgrims on the road to Mash-had, the Turkmens of Tehran and a myriad of other fascinating strangers.
We accompany Ollivier though our minds eye. We see and fell through his senses. We experience the sounds, the sights and the sensations through his exquisite descriptions. We feel as the heat rises and the competing demands of balancing hydration against the weight of carrying the priceless water press heavily on his mind. There is even a fleeting chance of a romantic liaison.
After Ollivier’s enormous effort the city of bright water and colorful people is finally in sight, and what a sight she is. For a millennia, Samarkand was the apple in many a tyrant’s eye. From the Khanates of Burkkara and Kniva to the Achaemenid Kings they all shared a thirst for her water resources. Samarkand is the very definition of an oasis in the desert. She has stood on the Great Silk Road from the beginning. Today however, Samarkand stands on the Great Cotton Road. White Gold, as cotton is referred to, has replaced the spices and other valuables. The road has had many names in the past; including the Golden Road during the time of the Achaemenid Kings. Who knows what it will called in the future. What we can say is that whatever the road is called, Samarkand will almost certainly remain a jewel of the desert.
CONCLUSION
It was a joy, a pleasure and an honor to have accompanied Bernard Ollivier on his journey, all be it vicariously though the pages of his manuscript. The phrase that ‘travel broadens the mind‘ holds true. Ollivier includes a plethora of information about the culture, the language, and the people of the region. I am amazed he managed to consolidate all of his observations so succinctly. I can still sense the bustling Grand Bazaar, the heat of the day, and the sight of the once great Bibi-Khanym Mosque (now a UNESCO site).
If you have one adventurous bone in your body then you will love this journal. I heartily recommend Walking To Samarkand.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to thank Bernard Ollivier, NetGalley, and Skyhorse for affording me the opportunity to review Walking To Samarkand.
I would like to make a special acknowledgment to Dan Golembeski for the exceptional job of translating Walking To Samarkand.
May 13, 2022
The second of a series of books that relate Ollivier’s trek across Asia, basically. From Istanbul to Xi’an, this particular book covers a segment that ends in Samarkand on the Silk Road. And, while I appreciate the endurance of his desire and fortitude of walking, his writing style leaves me wanting. It wafts between lovely prose that paints the pictures of desert dunescape, to quick roughshod meetings with locals and interactions with authorities. I felt like with the time spent traveling by foot, Ollivier could wax romantic a little more about the places he visits, even if only for lunch or a nap. However, some of the book felt like snippets copied from the back of a napkin, or poorly translated (was this a translation?), but certainly glossed over. Still, each chapter had moments that kept me running to a map to gaze wistfully in envy, so maybe it’s a mission accomplished, though I certainly have no desire to walk to Samarkand.
September 29, 2021
I enjoyed Bernard's journey vicariously because I don't think I will ever do the same journey in person. I loved reading about his visit to the market in Samarkand, and imagining all he saw there. I would enjoy the people he met who instantly became his friends and who showed him such warm hospitality. I would not like the many encounters with police who badgered him and wasted so much of his time in his travels. He was a lot more patient than I would be! I look forward to reading the first and third books in this journey from Istanbul to China.
March 3, 2013
Per alcuni giorni ho vissuto tra Milano e l'Iran, complice questo libro :P
Si nota una certa ripetitività nelle situazioni (persone con cui si incontro o si scontra), ma le descrizioni sono sempre interessanti, come la sua voglia di incontrare "l'altro" e la sua camminata instancabile (devo trovare il primo volume e i successivi).
E poi, è la zona del pianeta che più mi affascina, e quindi 4 stelle mi sembrano doverose!
Si nota una certa ripetitività nelle situazioni (persone con cui si incontro o si scontra), ma le descrizioni sono sempre interessanti, come la sua voglia di incontrare "l'altro" e la sua camminata instancabile (devo trovare il primo volume e i successivi).
E poi, è la zona del pianeta che più mi affascina, e quindi 4 stelle mi sembrano doverose!
July 12, 2018
Iran à pied. Passionant!
Ce livre est un pure délice. Néanmoins je préfère Ella Maillard, la suissesse, a une vision de la région beaucoup plus nuancée et profonde. Bernard Ollivier regarde le monde par les lunettes françaises, au début ça peut paraitre agaçant pour non-français, car il véhicule, malgré lui, beaucoup de clichés français. Mais à la fin, il s’est débarassé de tous ces clichés français, bravo pour cela! son épopée en Turkmenistan est un exploit en soi. Je comprends sa déception d’Ouzbekistan, Iran reste beaucoup plus « authentique » je dirai. Pour l’Asie centrale, Elle Maillard reste uncontournable, en plus, elle a publié ses photos de ces voyages, y compris pendant la compagne de liquidation de basmatchis par les soviétiques, interdit. Un rare témoignage du monde disparu!
Ce livre est un pure délice. Néanmoins je préfère Ella Maillard, la suissesse, a une vision de la région beaucoup plus nuancée et profonde. Bernard Ollivier regarde le monde par les lunettes françaises, au début ça peut paraitre agaçant pour non-français, car il véhicule, malgré lui, beaucoup de clichés français. Mais à la fin, il s’est débarassé de tous ces clichés français, bravo pour cela! son épopée en Turkmenistan est un exploit en soi. Je comprends sa déception d’Ouzbekistan, Iran reste beaucoup plus « authentique » je dirai. Pour l’Asie centrale, Elle Maillard reste uncontournable, en plus, elle a publié ses photos de ces voyages, y compris pendant la compagne de liquidation de basmatchis par les soviétiques, interdit. Un rare témoignage du monde disparu!
December 11, 2021
I really enjoyed this book - even more than his first stage. The people, places, and encounters are fascinating. Perhaps one reason I enjoyed this part of his journey is because we know so little about daily life on Iran, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.The story does not disappoint.
April 21, 2025
Review (3 stars):
The journey itself is beautifully written and rich in detail, but the author’s prejudiced remarks detract from the narrative. These opinions color the reader’s perception and take away from what could have been a more insightful and respectful account.
The journey itself is beautifully written and rich in detail, but the author’s prejudiced remarks detract from the narrative. These opinions color the reader’s perception and take away from what could have been a more insightful and respectful account.
January 23, 2023
Me ha parecido mucho menos interesante que el primer libro, después de este no me apetece leerme el último.
January 11, 2025
I've never been more relieved when an audiobook ended!!
Diarrhea, passport control, diarrhea, disgusting hotel, opium, stopped by a cop, aggressive mullah, oooh, sexy local woman, too bad I'm an old man, where's the Arabian nights, disgusting hotel, hot shower, diarrhea... you get the picture.
Don't take me wrong, I like grumpy old man narration! but this was such a joyless slog that I barely got anything out of it re Samarkand, Silk Roads OR the joy of walking, just out of spite b/c I disliked the narrator THAT Much. Incredible. Esp him getting repeatedly invited over everywhere like some kind of celebrity - idk, that just annoyed me b/c if he were French but a woman of the same age and personality, he'd not have gotten across a single border.
Diarrhea, passport control, diarrhea, disgusting hotel, opium, stopped by a cop, aggressive mullah, oooh, sexy local woman, too bad I'm an old man, where's the Arabian nights, disgusting hotel, hot shower, diarrhea... you get the picture.
Don't take me wrong, I like grumpy old man narration! but this was such a joyless slog that I barely got anything out of it re Samarkand, Silk Roads OR the joy of walking, just out of spite b/c I disliked the narrator THAT Much. Incredible. Esp him getting repeatedly invited over everywhere like some kind of celebrity - idk, that just annoyed me b/c if he were French but a woman of the same age and personality, he'd not have gotten across a single border.
November 12, 2019
An excellent travel book. A Frenchman pursues his quest to walk the Silk Road. This section of his journey takes place mostly in Iran, with the latter part of his walk taking him through Turkmenistan. This book reminded me of Patrick Leigh Fermor's travel books, chronicling his walking journeys through Europe in the years before WWII. Ollivier is much older than the young Fermor, and he is undaunted by Iranian mullahs, policemen, and border guards. In fact, if you have any desire to travel to these countries, you will want to read this book to find out how to deal with such authority figures! Ollivier deftly maneuvers around any police or border guard in his path by force of will alone.
Before reading this book, I knew very little about Central Asia. Most of my impressions of Iran were based on TV news reports. Ollivier shows the Iranian people, and most of them are gracious, kind people who show immense and immediate hospitality to a foreigner walking through their towns and villages. Most of them immediately offer tea and curiosity to any stranger passing through, along with a bed for the night. Yes, there are a handful of thieves and corrupt officials along the way, but most of the people the author meets show nothing but kindness and interest in his journey. Ollivier sleeps on a lot of floors, camps in the desert with snakes, and swims in canals, dragging his cart of gear behind him - and at age sixty. He is truly inspirational.
If you have any interest in other cultures or travel to far-flung places, this book is highly recommended.
Before reading this book, I knew very little about Central Asia. Most of my impressions of Iran were based on TV news reports. Ollivier shows the Iranian people, and most of them are gracious, kind people who show immense and immediate hospitality to a foreigner walking through their towns and villages. Most of them immediately offer tea and curiosity to any stranger passing through, along with a bed for the night. Yes, there are a handful of thieves and corrupt officials along the way, but most of the people the author meets show nothing but kindness and interest in his journey. Ollivier sleeps on a lot of floors, camps in the desert with snakes, and swims in canals, dragging his cart of gear behind him - and at age sixty. He is truly inspirational.
If you have any interest in other cultures or travel to far-flung places, this book is highly recommended.
May 23, 2021
I don't have much to add to existing reviews, except:
1. To anyone considering this book, I would recommend starting at the beginning of the journey with "Out of Istanbul".
2. The English translator deserves an immense amount of credit! If I hadn't been informed that these books were a translation, I would have never known.
I found myself devouring these tales of this (admittedly) stubborn old goat and all the greetings and sufferings along the way. It's a wonderful journey that I would never want to take. On to the final book!
1. To anyone considering this book, I would recommend starting at the beginning of the journey with "Out of Istanbul".
2. The English translator deserves an immense amount of credit! If I hadn't been informed that these books were a translation, I would have never known.
I found myself devouring these tales of this (admittedly) stubborn old goat and all the greetings and sufferings along the way. It's a wonderful journey that I would never want to take. On to the final book!
November 26, 2020
3.4 stars out of 5 - I read a hardback from the library over the past few evenings. It held my interest, and supplied interesting insights into the nature and character of the Iranian, Turkmeni, Uzbek, and Russian people he met along his way. But in the end his smugness became a bit annoying. I ended up glad he survived the obsessive walk, and his multiple contemptuous encounters with corrupt local police, but not wholeheartedly.
August 6, 2021
Continuation of Ollivier's walk along the Silk Road. Not as riveting as the first volume (perhaps he faced less drama and less perilous situations in Iran and Turkmenistan vs. Turkey). As with volume I, I wish there was more emphasis on the history of the places he visited.
July 2, 2016
C'est forcement répétitif, où je dors, où je mange, les paysages et les rencontres mais la marche au long cours c'est bien cela! Et le livre donne envie de partir...
September 29, 2020
I enjoyed the travel information, but kept wanting the author to get in a car and quit walking.
September 19, 2023
I just had the pleasure of taking a trek along much of the Silk Road with a charming Frenchman, Bernard Ollivier. Okay, so, I did it by reading his Walking to Samarkand: The Great Silk Road from Persia to Central Asia.
Some twenty years ago when he was 60 something Ollivier conceived the plan to follow the Silk Road from Istanbul to China in 3 separate journeys. This book is the middle of his journeys and documents his odyssey from south-eastern Turkey, through Iran, Turkmenistan and finally to Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
His writing is smooth and interesting with the right amount of background for each location, good information about food and local habits and many stories about the people he meets.
I enjoyed this so much that I intend to read the final part of his journey, Winds of the Steppe: Walking the Great Silk Road from Central Asia to China.
Some twenty years ago when he was 60 something Ollivier conceived the plan to follow the Silk Road from Istanbul to China in 3 separate journeys. This book is the middle of his journeys and documents his odyssey from south-eastern Turkey, through Iran, Turkmenistan and finally to Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
His writing is smooth and interesting with the right amount of background for each location, good information about food and local habits and many stories about the people he meets.
I enjoyed this so much that I intend to read the final part of his journey, Winds of the Steppe: Walking the Great Silk Road from Central Asia to China.
April 3, 2025
In this second book of a trilogy, Bermard Ollivier continues his journey along the Silk Road from the exact spot he ended it the year before, in Turkey, close to its border with Iran. This time, when he arrives, he builds a cart to carry his camping supplies and many gallons of water. He will be walking through several deserts. The police are almost not as worrisome in Iran, as in Turkey, but there are still problems with overly diligent officers and getting visas. The police strictly enforce the religious rules.
As in Turkey, he finds the people generally warm and friendly. They often invite him to their homes for meals and to sleep. Sometimes restaurants won’t let him pay for his food as his presence honors them. He searches for remnants of the caravansaries and visits famous spots and views. He knows a bit of Farsi, but still must use almost universal gestures to communicate with the locals.
It takes Ollivier 120 days to walk through Iran to Turkmenistan and then to Samarkand, in Uzbekistan, for a total of 1706 miles. It was a long and lonely walk, and he often wondered why he was so obsessed with finishing it. He lost 26 pounds.
Ollivier’s writing is clear and colorful. Trough his books I’m learning more about other cultures and refreshing my knowledge of geography. I have to admit that I always assumed that the Silk Road crossed India. That was wrong as it was north of India; he walked through countries that were unfamiliar to me.
We listened to the audio in the car, in bits and spurts, as we ran errands. The excellent narrator, Nigel Patterson, has a French accent which perfectly fits, as the author is French. Now we are eager to listen to the third book in the trilogy, Winds of the Steppe: Walking the Great Silk Road from Central Asia to China.
As in Turkey, he finds the people generally warm and friendly. They often invite him to their homes for meals and to sleep. Sometimes restaurants won’t let him pay for his food as his presence honors them. He searches for remnants of the caravansaries and visits famous spots and views. He knows a bit of Farsi, but still must use almost universal gestures to communicate with the locals.
It takes Ollivier 120 days to walk through Iran to Turkmenistan and then to Samarkand, in Uzbekistan, for a total of 1706 miles. It was a long and lonely walk, and he often wondered why he was so obsessed with finishing it. He lost 26 pounds.
Ollivier’s writing is clear and colorful. Trough his books I’m learning more about other cultures and refreshing my knowledge of geography. I have to admit that I always assumed that the Silk Road crossed India. That was wrong as it was north of India; he walked through countries that were unfamiliar to me.
We listened to the audio in the car, in bits and spurts, as we ran errands. The excellent narrator, Nigel Patterson, has a French accent which perfectly fits, as the author is French. Now we are eager to listen to the third book in the trilogy, Winds of the Steppe: Walking the Great Silk Road from Central Asia to China.
June 13, 2021
Back on the Road with Bernard
With the continuation of the author’s exploration walk along the Silk Road, we are treated to an enchanting adventure full of the good and bad that he finds along the road. Bernard’s indomitable spirit, his determination, and, at times, his bravery in the face of adversity draw the reader in and wanting more.
The book brings the reader along on an armchair adventure. On the journey, you root for him when he is low, fear for him when he is obviously in danger, and rejoice with him in his success.
One of the best parts of the book is the tour of discovery. Bernard was determined to find the old historical markers of the Silk Road along the way. The old caravansaries along the Silk Road, many in major disrepair, others buried lost relics of a forgotten past. It’s a shame that some of the countries along the Silk Road have little interest in maintaining this history.
I am eager to resume my walking adventure in the third installment. I will be back on the road with Bernard eager, and wanting more.
With the continuation of the author’s exploration walk along the Silk Road, we are treated to an enchanting adventure full of the good and bad that he finds along the road. Bernard’s indomitable spirit, his determination, and, at times, his bravery in the face of adversity draw the reader in and wanting more.
The book brings the reader along on an armchair adventure. On the journey, you root for him when he is low, fear for him when he is obviously in danger, and rejoice with him in his success.
One of the best parts of the book is the tour of discovery. Bernard was determined to find the old historical markers of the Silk Road along the way. The old caravansaries along the Silk Road, many in major disrepair, others buried lost relics of a forgotten past. It’s a shame that some of the countries along the Silk Road have little interest in maintaining this history.
I am eager to resume my walking adventure in the third installment. I will be back on the road with Bernard eager, and wanting more.
August 25, 2025
Testo autobiografico in cui l'autore racconta del suo viaggio a piedi dal confine turco-iraniano a Samarcanda in Uzbekistan durante la primavera-estate 2000.
Si tratta di un viaggio non facile, pieno di contrattempi (in primis il caldo infernale, ma anche la burocrazia, le strade trafficate, la difficoltà di intendersi), reso indimenticabile soprattutto dagli incontri e dalla generosità delle persone. In particolare gli iraniani (per il 75% il libro tratta della traversata di questo Paese) che emergono come un popolo magnifico, tristemente dominato da una dittatura insensata. Benché da quel viaggio siano passati 25 anni e l'avvento di internet abbia investito largamente la popolazione, immagino che le cose non siano molto cambiate, sia per quanto riguarda la loro generosa ospitalità, sia per la drammatica dittatura che li affligge.
Purtroppo il narratore mi è risultato antipatico e supponente e questo ha contribuito a rendere la lettura poco piacevole, nonostante la bella scrittura e il racconto interessante.
Si tratta di un viaggio non facile, pieno di contrattempi (in primis il caldo infernale, ma anche la burocrazia, le strade trafficate, la difficoltà di intendersi), reso indimenticabile soprattutto dagli incontri e dalla generosità delle persone. In particolare gli iraniani (per il 75% il libro tratta della traversata di questo Paese) che emergono come un popolo magnifico, tristemente dominato da una dittatura insensata. Benché da quel viaggio siano passati 25 anni e l'avvento di internet abbia investito largamente la popolazione, immagino che le cose non siano molto cambiate, sia per quanto riguarda la loro generosa ospitalità, sia per la drammatica dittatura che li affligge.
Purtroppo il narratore mi è risultato antipatico e supponente e questo ha contribuito a rendere la lettura poco piacevole, nonostante la bella scrittura e il racconto interessante.
July 30, 2022
Mr. Ollivier takes us on an incredible journey, by foot across Iran (Persia) and its better than any travelogue or guide book. He meets the REAL Iranians, who are the most hospitable and interesting people. Its NOT a political book, but we continually get glimpses of what it is like to be be ruled by hypocritical religious mullahs. Mr Ollivier is not critical of the people but more amazed at their willingness to take in a foreign traveler walking thru their land.
While traveling sometimes over 30 miles a day, he takes notes and send them home to be put together later for his books.
I didnt know there was a previous book, so now, I have gotten he FIRST book to read, and it won't be a mystery what happens when it ends, But I shall read it anyway. Besides being a good traveler, he is a great story teller, and brings the ancient life on the Silk Road alive.
I felt like I was on his journey!
While traveling sometimes over 30 miles a day, he takes notes and send them home to be put together later for his books.
I didnt know there was a previous book, so now, I have gotten he FIRST book to read, and it won't be a mystery what happens when it ends, But I shall read it anyway. Besides being a good traveler, he is a great story teller, and brings the ancient life on the Silk Road alive.
I felt like I was on his journey!
January 4, 2025
This is the second book of Olivier's walk on the Silk Road. I read the first and was very critical of his arrogance, haughtiness and what I perceived as general disdain for the people, culture and countries he traveled through. I am very happy to report that the second leg showed immense improvement; Perhaps his close call to death at the end of the first made an impact on him! This leg took in Turkey and Iran and, as in the first book, his descriptions of the landscape are spectacular. And once again he is at the mercy of the citizen's goodwill which they surprisingly give very willingly. This time though he is much more gracious and way less critical of his surroundings. I enjoyed his 'chutzpa' in successfully challenging some of the corrupt police and government officials although I was worried that he might end up in the local slammer for an indefinite period of time. I'm ready for #3 leg.
January 19, 2022
Once again Ollivier captures all the emotions wrapped around his walk from the eastern end of Turkey, through Afghanistan and Turkmenistan on to Uzbekistan where he finishes in ancient Samarkand. That he at times gets so fatigued, both mentally and physically, yet pushes on to finish his objective, is remarkable.
Ollivier is both heartfelt and humorous, even when facing significant personal risk like standing up to corrupt police and road bandits (including kids). His descriptions of vast landscape and mountains and farm fields and roadways alike are a delight.
I especially liked the description of Iranian people as kind, thoughtful, smart and caring (different from the mullahs which rule and lord over them).
Even if you don't suffer, as I do, from wanderlust, you will enjoy this book (and the first in the series of three).
Ollivier is both heartfelt and humorous, even when facing significant personal risk like standing up to corrupt police and road bandits (including kids). His descriptions of vast landscape and mountains and farm fields and roadways alike are a delight.
I especially liked the description of Iranian people as kind, thoughtful, smart and caring (different from the mullahs which rule and lord over them).
Even if you don't suffer, as I do, from wanderlust, you will enjoy this book (and the first in the series of three).
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