Kimono

by Liza Dalby

In this beautifully written and lavishly illustrated book Liza Dalby traces the history of the kimono - its designs, uses, aesthetics and social significance.

The colourful and stylised kimono, the national garment of Japan, expresses not only Japanese fashion and design taste but also reveals something of the soul of Japan, and is seen by many as a symbol for all that is Japanese - simplicity, elegance and beauty. Amazingly beautiful, the kimono has gone through many changes in the centuries since it was first imported from China, changes that reflect the way that Japanese society has also developed over the ages.

Genres: Japan, Nonfiction, History, Fashion, Asia, Art, Historical

395 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1993

About the author

With its fascinating story of characters caught up in a world they themselves don't understand, Hidden Buddhas may well be Liza Dalby's best work yet. Besides taking us on a journey through little-known corners of Japan, it offers us an engaging and believable portrait of people driven to do things they may not have imagined." --Arthur Golden, author of Memoirs of a Geisha

According to esoteric Buddhist theology, the world is suffering through a final corrupt era. Many in Japan believe that after the world ends, the Buddha of the Future will appear and bring about a new age of enlightenment. Hundreds of temples in Japan are known to keep mysterious hidden buddhas secreted away except on rare designated viewing days. Are they being protected, or are they protecting the world?

From these ancient notions of doom and rebirth comes a startling new novel by the acclaimed author of Geisha and The Tale of Murasaki. Hidden Buddhas: A Novel of Karma and Chaos explores the karmic connections between Japanese fashion, pilgrimage, dying honeybees, bad girls with cell phones, murder by blowfish, and the Buddhist apocalypse. Something of a Buddhist Da Vinci Code, Hidden Buddhas travels through time to expose a mystery you will never forget."

Reviews

[LeRon Harrison · Rating 1 out of 5]

Here in Los Angeles you have organizations such as the Kimono Club who describe their function as displaying the wonder and beauty of kimono and Japanese culture. The displays of these organizations, however, largely involve showing the different types of kimono for women and one type of kimono for men. Some of these organizations even explain in the narration that this imbalance as just the way things are with kimono. With such a pitch why would a man (Japanese or otherwise) ever want to wear a kimono? It is one thing to have Japanese expats "promote" and make claims about kimono in this manner; it is quite another for Liza Dalby, an American trained anthropologist to do so. It is this problem and others that burdens Dalby's book.

The problem with Dalby's book are apparent in the first three sentences of the book.

The kimono proclaims itself the national costume of Japan and is duly recognized as such throughout the world. Yet today the kimono is said to be dying, to be utterly too cumbersome for modern life, to be be elegantly anachronistic as the conservative old ladies or geisha who wear it. Kimono is the garment men discarded a century ago in the name of modernity and efficiency but in which women continue to enfold themselves for formal and official occasions.

So let me begin with the first sentence. The kimono cannot proclaim anything about itself or anything else; it is an object incapable of speech. People are the one who do the proclaiming. This is something Dalby should know all too well having studied anthropology extensively. And yet she is doing the very thing the Kimono club and others do with ease and without concern: making a claim about kimono that seems natural and obvious. In the wake of Benedict Anderson's Imagined Communities and Eric Hobsbawm's "invented tradition" (both of which came out around the time when the book first appeared), Dalby's claim and the entire book in general can be seen as participating in the expansion of the "imagined and invented tradition" of kimono. That is, the book and the claims Dalby makes in it, despite the amount information she presents, are not thought through critical and in regards of the context of the events that occurred.

The third sentence is a prime example of this. Dably claims that men discarded the kimono in favor of western attire but women did not. This claim is not true at all. Kimono was part of the discussions of the Meiji period and with the concepts of the "modern boy" and "modern girl" kimono was casted as not modern. But as there was a push for abandoning kimono for both sexes where exactly is the proof that men completely abandoned the kimono whereas women did not? There is no proof of this as even today one can find men wearing kimono and stores that sell men's kimono. So why exactly is Dalby creating a gender distinction? (And by extension, why do Japanese make a similar gender distinction in kimono by displaying only one form of kimono for men or saying that Japanese men hardly ever wear kimono?) It is broad statements such as this made uncritically by a woman who has a degree in anthropology that make this work so problematic.

[Emily · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'd been looking for an affordable copy of this for years, but I kept finding used for $60+. However, while in Kyoto, I came across Random Walk, which quickly became one of my favorite bookstores (I filled up my purchase point card, but haven't been able to redeem it).

Dalby does an excellent job charing social changes starting a bit before the tenth century to the late twentieth century through her focus on the evolution of the kimono.

My one complaint is that, as it is nearly two decades old, it is a bit dated. Concentrating heavily on women's fashion, it misses out on the style explosions that have occurred since its publications. While what we think of now as kimonos is heavily concentrated in bougie department stores, I think the changes in young women's attitudes towards marriage and children might alter some of Dalby's views if she were to return to the subject. I bit more on festivals in post-1970s Japan and their relationship to the yukata would also be nice.

Overall, a fun, insightful book by an excellent anthropologist.

[Laura · Rating 4 out of 5]

I reference this book from time to time when planning my kimono outfits - yes I wear kimono actively and have a large collection. I did learn a lot about the culture and history of kimono, and it has some lovely information about color combinations. But, it is not so useful as a modern guide to dressing - with no kitsuke instruction.

[Jenne · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was at a museum in Japan that had some antique kimono, and I thought, you know, I would really like to read a book about the history and cultural meaning of kimono.

This book could not have been more exactly what I wanted if I had specially commissioned it from the author. Totally fascinating.

Maybe I'll actually try to read all of The Tale of Genji now that I know what all the seasonal color combinations mean.

Haha, just kidding. No one actually reads the whole Tale of Genji!

[Saleris · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm really enjoying this book, but I'd have to say, unless you are studying textile history, it's a VERY slow read.
This is not due to boredom or lofty language, but the sheer amount of information on the subject.

[Helen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating book, and surprisingly gripping and entertaining for a non fiction book about kimono. Everything from the history of the entire outfit and how it is put together, it's place in society today, patterns for the seasons and etiquette in terms of what different ages wear, whether you are married (no fun sleeves once you are married) and what not to wear if you want to appear proper and not a lady of ill repute!

Liz Dalby has written a masterwork on the subject and although a Westerner, clearly has a passion for Japan, is well positioned to do so being one of a few Westerners to have been privileged to peep behind the curtain of the world of Geisha in her role as anthropologist. I read once she went through the Geisha training herself, and has written a few books on the subject as well as helped with Arthur Golding's beautiful work Memoirs of a Geisha.

This book was exceptionally interesting. Couldn't put it down. I suppose like kilts in Scotland (for example) they still have a firm place in hearts and minds, and for specific functions, but for everyday modern life increasingly few still favour them so it is always interesting to learn about what is likely a dying art. Sadly.

[Cal · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wow! This book was a great resource. I did read the whole thing.. it's very readable and covers the most important sections of kimono. I'm really glad I never tried to wear them before reading this book, I probably would have made a complete fool of myself!

[kirsten johnstone · Rating 4 out of 5]

incredible detail of the history of the japanese kimono.
my favourite part is the section on IKI - the hidden, exquisite detail. love it.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

I didn't enjoy this book as much as her other books. The essays were a bit too scattered and the order in which they followed each other didn't always make sense to me. Also, it's such a pity the book was published before more advanced graphics were common, or that Liza Dalby didn't opt for a few pages of colorful illustrations. Black and white pictures of beautiful kimono just don't have the same punch. There was a lot to learn from this book: for example, the meaning of colors and color combinations in Japanese culture, the origin of certain words based on said colors (e.g. the Japanese word for true love derives from the word for blue, and blue dies preserved a fabric better; by contrast, fickle love is derived from the term scarlet, a color easy to fade). I also discovered a secret code in Western clothing I was never aware of: female blouses button right over left, and male blouses button left over right. But overall, information was introduced too quick, in huge dollops, and it was hard to retain from chapter to chapter. Interesting read for people passionate about Japanese culture, but still, not easy to follow.

[F. · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book was a bit of a mixed bag. I have to commend Liza Dalby for sharing her immense knowledge and experience of the kimono through her training as a geisha. The first two parts of the book were strong, as they provided much historical context about the kimono. The third part, although having merit on its own, felt out of place and might have been better off in a stand alone book. It did drag for a while, though I do understand the purpose of it being there (so to show Westerners the layout of a kimono magazine).

Overall, this is a useful read for those reading Japanese woodblock prints or for anyone interested in fashion. But it is a bit long, so the length may intimidate those who just want a general understanding of the subject.

[Lore · Rating 4 out of 5]

The most in depth kimono history book I've ever read. Sometimes it is hard to grasp certain differences in kimono styles without pictures and the photographs are few and far in between. It's a struggle to stay focused because the writing style is very monotonous. However, truly valuable content.

[Tracey · Rating 3 out of 5]

A very informative read about kimono’s . I never realised there were do many types and styles. I loved the influence of the seasons for the designs and colours of the kimono’s. Beautiful illustrations inside the book.

[Victoria Asher · Rating 5 out of 5]

An exceptional reference for any kimono lover!!

[Susan · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a beautiful book, well-illustrated with history of the garment, the society, use of color and design. But, frankly, much too detailed for my interest. Still - good to read as a resource.

[Goldkehlchen20 · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Kimono: Fashioning Culture" was written by Liza Dalby as a follow-up to her research about Geisha. In case you find that name sounding familiar (like I did): Liza Dalby was a consultant on the movie "Memoirs of a Geisha" and was featured in the making-of.
I have to say that reading her book on Kimono did not only help me see the costume-choices of this movie in a completely different light, it also opened my eyes to the fact that my eurocentric view of the Kimono and its cultural impact has been enormously static. Led by my own ideas of Kimono as an exotic and ceremonial type of clothing, I was guilty of making this particular form of dress into something alien and mysterious. In my imagination, the "secret" rules of Kimono were strict and unwavering through centuries of history.
The truth is far less magical, but definitely a lot more interesting.

This book gives the reader a basic outline of the history, built, meaning and politics of the garment and clears up quite a few of the western prejudices which accompany our perception of Japanese national dress.
Above all, the analysis of different trends and developments in Kimono-fashion (not the least the significant influence which the contrast with western fashion has had on the Kimono as we see it today) has shown me that my former perceptions of this aspect of Japanese culture were - I have no other way of saying it - remarkably stupid.

The text is accompanied by many photographs, woodprints, drawings and colour-examples which illustrate the subjects adressed very well. Above that, I found the style in which it was written very enjoyable to read.
For anyone who is really interested in Kimono and is not frightened away by the mere size of this book, it is a must-read.

[Hirondelle (not getting notifications) · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting book, though I am biased to think because I was interested in japanese clothing. But IMO *could* have been better.

I now find myself able to read a little bit of what a kimono is saying about its wearer, and its fun. The history and sociology were also very interesting. But IMO there were some things here which impaired a bit my enjoyment:

- the Heian chapters (particularly the one on the third part about color combination) feel a bit tacked on and not strictly necessary. In fact the second chapter about Heian color combination felt much too long and too verbatim.
- the second to last chapter, on 17th-18th century kimono magazines was also a bit too verbatim - and I remained baffled about when reproducing the original drawings what was the connection between the non-worn kimono and the modelled kimono, since they did not seem the same design to me.
- the question of cost is only discussed once, but I can not helped thinking of it on many more places on this book, particularly regarding how fast kimonos are supposed to became non appropriate (due to age of wearer, or season or anything). And how it would probably relate to society and contrasting mentally to western fashion obsolescence and sizing issues. I really wish the book had addressed that more deeply and more widely.

[Beth · Rating 3 out of 5]

The writing gets tedious in spots, but is full of detail on kimono--the history of Japanese traditional clothing, borrowing Chinese clothing styles and revising them to a Japanese style, class and gender differences, seasonal colors and patterns, and the role of geisha as fashion innovators. And there's a lot more, including color schematics showing the Heian-era layering traditions.

Good for someone who wants to get deeply into the history and meanings of kimono.

[Sarah · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was a very interesting read, overall, although dry at points. It was fascinating to see how a traditional Chinese shirt and pants comes to be the robe we think of as Japanese. This covers the history of development, how and why women have maintained Kimono tradition while men have largely given it up, and changes in colors, designs, and ways of wearing, depending on a number of daily life factors.

[Ashley]

I found out I knew a fair amount about kimono that I thought I did, yet at the same time, I knew considerably less that I should have. The book is well written and while parts of the history of kimono can be tedious to read through (such as the description of Heian dress), it was well worth it to trudge through to see the evolution of Japan's national dress.

[Ella]

This is what happens when you grab the first book you see at the library that might be about the Edo period. I don't think I wanted to know that much about kimonos. Needless to say, this book bored me. Lessons learned: sixth-grade me would have loved this. Present day me prefers her history to be about people and how they lived, not just their clothes.

[Kylie]

I picked this up in a park of three along with Memoirs of a Geisha (which I adored and still do) and Liza Dalby's factual account of Geisha. In no way was I disappointed, as it proved to be just as interesting - and the section on Heian kimono gave birth to my interest in that particular era.

[Lucy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Who knew a book about a type of garment could be so good??? I came to read this after discovering Liza when I read Murasaki, this book was an amazing history and anthropological insight into Kimono and japan. I only wish there were more illustrations and photos.

[Jean · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a very thorough book on anything you want to know about Kimonos. She covers the history, construction techniques and cultural evolution of its use as well as detailed descriptions of the different types and parts.

Very very comprehensive.

[Jonquil · Rating 5 out of 5]

THE book to read if you're interested in the cultural history of kimono. Wonderful text and illustrations, including precise colors for all the Heian named clothing sets.

[Jocilyn · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was lucky enough to get this book signed by the author. It's half-fashion analysis, half-historical analysis of wafuku in Japan. Highly recommended.

[Emily · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is an absolutely wonderful book, but much more scholarly and detailed than I expected. If you are not a scholar, a skim-through might be enough. I wish it had photographs.

[Celia Chavers]

L

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful book. Especially for those who enjoy aesthetics and their social meanings. As a geisha in Japan, her information comes straight from the inner sanctum. A book of deep integrity.

[Commanderd · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good factual guide to the realm of kimono, although it really could have benefitted from some colour photographs.

[Beroha · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a reference regarding the history of kimono, with detailed illustrations.