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Výstup na Everest
Od roku 1921 začaly pokusy dostat se na vrchol Mount Everest. Podařilo se to v roce 1953 britské expedici vedené Johnem Huntem, kdy na vrcholu stanuli novozélandský horolezec Edmund Hillary a nepálský šerpský horolezec Tenzing Norkey. A právě o tomto prvním vydařeném výstupu je obsah této knihy.
274 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 1953
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747 people want to read
About the author
John Hunt
21 books6 followersHunt was an officer in the British and Indian armies in the 1930s, during which time he was able to undertake several climbing expeditions in the Himalaya.
Following WWII (during which time Hunt served with considerable distinction, being awarded a DSO and being made a CBE before the war's end) Hunt's leadership skills, mountaineering background and knowledge of the Himalaya led to his selection as leader of the 1953 British Everest expedition.
Following the success of the Everest expedition Hunt was knighted, and some years later was made a life peer, being gazetted as Baron Hunt.
Following WWII (during which time Hunt served with considerable distinction, being awarded a DSO and being made a CBE before the war's end) Hunt's leadership skills, mountaineering background and knowledge of the Himalaya led to his selection as leader of the 1953 British Everest expedition.
Following the success of the Everest expedition Hunt was knighted, and some years later was made a life peer, being gazetted as Baron Hunt.
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August 17, 2017
The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt
The story of a team of resolute men who conquered a mountain…
Expedition leader John Hunt asked and answered his own questions before and during the journey up the mountain. I believe it was his ability to ask and answer these questions which made the trip a success. Hunt showed remarkable powers of organization, and strength of mind and purpose that equaled the strength, physical power, and endurance of his team. He answered the above question in summary here:
Before reading Hunt’s memoir, I had read Everest 1953: The Epic Story of the First Ascent by Mick Conefrey, published in 2013. Of course, it is common practice to attempt to rewrite history, and always has been. I enjoyed Conefrey’s book immensely because he pulls in several different sources, and sheds light on some of the controversies in the journey. But, I was eager to read the firsthand accounts of the men who made the climb. I had to search online for an actual hardback copy of John Hunt’s book (as well as that of Edmund Hillary and a biography of George Mallory which I plan to read next.)
The copy I got of Ascent of Everest was in fairly decent condition for its age, though the dustjacket was pieced together with tape, and it was not taken very good care of in the past. This is unusual for most old books I’ve gotten off Amazon… just the luck of the draw. But, really the copy is indispensable with all the many photos and sketches inside.
What’s more, I discovered a few inconsistencies in what Mick Conefrey said in his book, claims that just did not seem to match up with an actual reading of John Hunt’s book. The one that I found most glaring was Conefrey’s claim that Hunt had mistakenly stated in his bio that Tenzing Norgay was an inexperienced climber before the Everest trip of 1953. That did not happen in John Hunt’s book. Everything John Hunt said about Tenzing was a glowing commendation of his skill and experience; his fitness as a man to climb Everest. And, ultimately John Hunt selected Tenzing to accompany Hillary in the summit assault that won the expedition.
In defense of Conefrey, his book was intended to be an expose of sorts. He tried to flesh out the untold conflicts in a trip that had been noted for the large amount of cooperation it had displayed among the mountain-climbing community. But, where he failed was in realizing the fact that that amount of cooperation was phenomenal for any large undertaking. Where Conefrey looked for differing opinions, at almost 65 years removed from the people and events, Hunt gave a rundown on the journey as it unfolded in his firsthand experience. I do prefer Hunt’s account to that of Conefrey.
Another detail Conefrey may have overlooked is the fact that many people have similar names in every culture, and there was a Sherpa named Da Tensing on the trip, as well as Tenzing Norgay. Tenzing was often referred to only by first name, while Da Tensing was always referred to with the Da prefix and the s spelling instead of the z. I don’t know if Conefrey mixed the details of these two up or not. But, John Hunt didn’t. Both men are even pictured in the book. And, both men were spoken well of, though it’s obvious from a single reading that Tenzing Norgay was far more experienced than the Sherpa Da Tensing. (The difference is much like that between Mary the Mother of Jesus and Mary Magdalene in the Bible, for instance.)
John Hunt’s book is every bit a travelogue. It is similar in purpose to The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, by T.E. Lawrence, (with the possible exception of being a bit more interesting and less wordy of a read than Lawrence.) There are many other reasons to read John Hunt’s account for yourself, and I do highly recommend it. I am including many direct quotations, because his writing is both highly organized and sometimes poetic and beautiful. Sample a bit of the journey yourself, or skip ahead.
Hunt goes on to tell how a 14 year old boy who’d been eager to help fell, hanging off a bridge and was hauled by his rope back up onto the ice, and returned frightened to his regular duties in the cookhouse afterwards.
He shares the life in the various camps, the food, and the night scenery. Technical terms for geographical landforms unique to mountains, such as bergschrund… a mountain crevasse… are found in the book.
He speaks highly of Tenzing’s proficiency repeatedly throughout the book:
He describes the testing his expedition conducted on two types of Oxygen:
He considered carefully the options in sending multiple assault parties in the final days, in support of each other, and as a backup in the event of failure of the first party to attempt the assault. This proved to be the harbinger of victory.
He describes the willingness and fitness of Hillary and Tenzing to provide a final ‘carry’ for the first assault party, even though they were to be next up for the second assault party; a selfless act which could possibly deter their own chances of success afterwards.
They conducted numerous experiments, and recorded details of nature while on the journey up the mountain. More info on the Alpine Chough he mentioned can be found on Wikipedia.
From the camp in the Col, Hunt describes getting a view of a scene he’d longed to see; the summit of Nepal Peak and close by Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. From there years before in 1937 he had looked north-west towards Everest and Lhotse. Now he was seeing the view in reverse. Apparently, one does not climb the highest mountain in the world, without having climbed a few other high mountains.
I found Hunt’s biography to be both inspiring and an entertaining adventure read. I liked the fact that he left the technical details for the appendix. And, I liked that he shared the beauty of the journey, as well as the details of the work. I thought he showed remarkable ability in organization, and displayed great talent as a leader. It’s obvious the British Geographical Society made a good decision in choosing him to lead. I recommend his account for anyone who likes adventure and travelogues.
The story of a team of resolute men who conquered a mountain…
“What is the problem of Everest? What were the weapons with which the mountain had so long succeeded in holding at bay so many resolute men?” –John Hunt
Expedition leader John Hunt asked and answered his own questions before and during the journey up the mountain. I believe it was his ability to ask and answer these questions which made the trip a success. Hunt showed remarkable powers of organization, and strength of mind and purpose that equaled the strength, physical power, and endurance of his team. He answered the above question in summary here:
“Trouble begins above that height, which is one main reason why the really high peaks – those of 26,000 feet and over – are in a different category of difficulty from lesser ones. The policy of gradualness breaks down, for the muscle tissues begin to deteriorate fairly rapidly and the climber’s resistance to cold, his fortitude in the face of wind and weather, are weakened. He tends to lose the promptings of appetite and thirst and he is denied the relaxation of normal sleep. In fact, from about 21,000 feet onwards, he really needs greatly to speed up the rate of his progress and employ ‘rush’ tactics. But, this he cannot do. On the contrary, he is increasingly handicapped by the height as he climbs and his progress becomes painfully slow; the mental effort, like the physical, is infinitely greater.”
Before reading Hunt’s memoir, I had read Everest 1953: The Epic Story of the First Ascent by Mick Conefrey, published in 2013. Of course, it is common practice to attempt to rewrite history, and always has been. I enjoyed Conefrey’s book immensely because he pulls in several different sources, and sheds light on some of the controversies in the journey. But, I was eager to read the firsthand accounts of the men who made the climb. I had to search online for an actual hardback copy of John Hunt’s book (as well as that of Edmund Hillary and a biography of George Mallory which I plan to read next.)
The copy I got of Ascent of Everest was in fairly decent condition for its age, though the dustjacket was pieced together with tape, and it was not taken very good care of in the past. This is unusual for most old books I’ve gotten off Amazon… just the luck of the draw. But, really the copy is indispensable with all the many photos and sketches inside.
What’s more, I discovered a few inconsistencies in what Mick Conefrey said in his book, claims that just did not seem to match up with an actual reading of John Hunt’s book. The one that I found most glaring was Conefrey’s claim that Hunt had mistakenly stated in his bio that Tenzing Norgay was an inexperienced climber before the Everest trip of 1953. That did not happen in John Hunt’s book. Everything John Hunt said about Tenzing was a glowing commendation of his skill and experience; his fitness as a man to climb Everest. And, ultimately John Hunt selected Tenzing to accompany Hillary in the summit assault that won the expedition.
In defense of Conefrey, his book was intended to be an expose of sorts. He tried to flesh out the untold conflicts in a trip that had been noted for the large amount of cooperation it had displayed among the mountain-climbing community. But, where he failed was in realizing the fact that that amount of cooperation was phenomenal for any large undertaking. Where Conefrey looked for differing opinions, at almost 65 years removed from the people and events, Hunt gave a rundown on the journey as it unfolded in his firsthand experience. I do prefer Hunt’s account to that of Conefrey.
Another detail Conefrey may have overlooked is the fact that many people have similar names in every culture, and there was a Sherpa named Da Tensing on the trip, as well as Tenzing Norgay. Tenzing was often referred to only by first name, while Da Tensing was always referred to with the Da prefix and the s spelling instead of the z. I don’t know if Conefrey mixed the details of these two up or not. But, John Hunt didn’t. Both men are even pictured in the book. And, both men were spoken well of, though it’s obvious from a single reading that Tenzing Norgay was far more experienced than the Sherpa Da Tensing. (The difference is much like that between Mary the Mother of Jesus and Mary Magdalene in the Bible, for instance.)
John Hunt’s book is every bit a travelogue. It is similar in purpose to The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, by T.E. Lawrence, (with the possible exception of being a bit more interesting and less wordy of a read than Lawrence.) There are many other reasons to read John Hunt’s account for yourself, and I do highly recommend it. I am including many direct quotations, because his writing is both highly organized and sometimes poetic and beautiful. Sample a bit of the journey yourself, or skip ahead.
“Yet to solve a problem which has long resisted the skill and persistence of others is an irresistible magnet in every sphere of human activity.”
“…they comprise a team; they are linked by a rope which does more than provide mutual security – it symbolizes their unity of purpose.”
“These two factors, the altitude and the weather, tend separately and together to defeat the climber. The height weakens, slows him down; it forces him to spend days and nights in the course of his assault on the summit; the weather, besides adding to the demands on his energy and moral fortitude, conspires to deny him the time he needs to complete his mission.”
“We must either so fortify ourselves that we could continue, without detriment, to live and have our being above the limit of natural acclimatization, or, better still, we must solve the problem of speed.”
“…we had to pass beyond that enchanted barrier, dispersing beforehand any spell by which the mountain might hold the trespasser hostage for ever in its icy grip.”
“…I was looking for two qualities which do not easily coincide in any one mortal. There was the need to be sure that each one of the party really wanted to get to the top. This desire must be individual as well as collective, for such are the exigencies of Everest that any one of us might be called upon to make this attempt; I was looking for the ‘Excelsior’ spirit in every member of the team. In contrast with this, Everest also demands a quite unusual degree of selflessness and patience.”
“…the finalists have been defeated by attempting too long a climb on the last day… put your assault camp on, or very close under, the Southern Summit.”
“We were testing a variety of clothing, boots, tents, bedding, food, and cooking-stoves; some of those items in embarrassing quantities for the short time at our disposal. For instance we had no fewer than eight different designs of high-altitude boot. We had first to discard a few of these out of hand, and then to wear one type of boot on each foot during each day. As for clothing, while the models and materials were also varied, we had fewer suits available; we had, therefore, to exchange windproofs each day and compare notes at the end of the period. In the same way we changed from one tent and sleeping-bag into another.”
“The Sherpas are hill-men whose home is in the district of Sola Khumbu in Eastern Nepal. Originally of Tibetan stock, to whose language theirs is closely akin, they are small sturdy men with all the sterling qualities of born mountaineers. Many of them have migrated to Darjeeling in the Indian State of Bengal where, with the encouragement of the Himalayan Club, they have made porterage for foreign expeditions to the Himalaya a livelihood.”
“Finance loomed large among our preoccupations. With so vast a baggage train, and foreseeing numerous other expenses while away from civilization, I, as treasurer to the expedition, had to draw very considerable funds to take with us on our journey. We were given to understand that the local people decline to accept the flimsy local paper currency, except in the Valley of Nepal itself, so we had to take half our treasure in Nepali coin. We had considerable trouble in finding suitable boxes in which to pack so heavy and bulky a load, which needed no fewer than twelve coolies to carry it.”
“It was on this occasion that I had my first chance of climbing with Tenzing; it showed me not only what a capable mountaineer he is, but also that he was, even at that time, fitter than any of us.”
“Squeezed between the shoulders of Everest and Nuptse, the ice resembles a gigantic cascade, pouring in leaping waves and eddies over submerged boulders towards us. Almost, you might expect to hear the roar of that immense volume of foaming water which, after flowing peacefully to the brink of the cliff above, is now plunging down with terrifying power. But it has been gripped by the intense cold, frozen into immobility, a silent thing, its force restrained. But not quite. For this labyrinth of broken ice is moving, its surface changing, if not at the pace of water, at least at a speed which makes it a perilous problem to surmount.”
“Next morning Charles Wylie set out with a party of Sherpas carrying an awkward load of 12-foot poles, cut from the forests around Thyangboche. His task was to bridge all the big gaps as far as Camp II and release the ladder sections which had been laid temporarily over some of these, so that they should be available for the major crevasse above Camp III…”
Hunt goes on to tell how a 14 year old boy who’d been eager to help fell, hanging off a bridge and was hauled by his rope back up onto the ice, and returned frightened to his regular duties in the cookhouse afterwards.
He shares the life in the various camps, the food, and the night scenery. Technical terms for geographical landforms unique to mountains, such as bergschrund… a mountain crevasse… are found in the book.
He speaks highly of Tenzing’s proficiency repeatedly throughout the book:
“Leaving Base Camp that morning and using Open-Circuit sets at a flow rate of 4 litres a minute, Ed Hillary and Tenzing had climbed directly to Camp IV in exactly five hours, including a total period of forty-five minutes spent in rests at Camps II and III. The state of the track up the Cwm had not been good owing to the prevailing weather conditions the day before. This was a truly remarkable achievement, an indication both of the going powers of these two exceptional men and of the efficiency of the equipment they were using.”
He describes the testing his expedition conducted on two types of Oxygen:
“In contrast with this, there was virtually no hope of reaching the top on the Open-Circuit apparatus without interposing a further camp. Its endurance was appreciably less and, while still enjoying great advantage over a man without oxygen, the climber must expect to move progressively more slowly as he rose higher… - speed spells safety on any mountain, but most especially is this true of Everest. It was for this particular reason that I had encouraged Tom Bourdillon in pursuing the tests of his special equipment, despite its more obvious drawbacks; despite, too, the apparent unsoundness of employing two types of equipment…”
He considered carefully the options in sending multiple assault parties in the final days, in support of each other, and as a backup in the event of failure of the first party to attempt the assault. This proved to be the harbinger of victory.
He describes the willingness and fitness of Hillary and Tenzing to provide a final ‘carry’ for the first assault party, even though they were to be next up for the second assault party; a selfless act which could possibly deter their own chances of success afterwards.
“My oxygen had finished before descending to the Col, and Charles Evans took off his set to leave him more free to work. We were pathetically feeble, far too weak to compete against the fiendish gale. For over an hour we fought and strove with it, playing a diabolical tug-of-war, trying to put up one single tent which can be put up in one or two minutes lower down. All the time the canvas was being snatched from our hands and we were being caught in a tangle of guy-ropes. We staggered about, getting in each other’s way, anoxic and hopelessly inadequate to cope with the conditions. Tom kept his oxygen set on for a short time and at first could not understand the antics of Charles and myself as we rolled around like drunkards. Once I tripped over a boulder and lay on my face for five minutes or so, before I could summon the strength to get up. But, soon Tom’s canister gave out, and then his oxygen supply. He too fell down and also lay, more or less unconscious, on the ground.”
“We sorted out the muddle as best we could and crawled into our bags, clothed in everything, including windproofs. Between 5.30 and 9pm we brewed and drank no less than four mugfuls of liquid each; there was lemonade, soup, tea and cocoa. It was most satisfying. While Charles and I were occupied in this way, Tom was fitting up oxygen equipment for sleeping purposes. We eventually settled down for the night, always conscious of that great wind as it tore at the tent walls as though bent on removing us from this desert where it ruled supreme.”
They conducted numerous experiments, and recorded details of nature while on the journey up the mountain. More info on the Alpine Chough he mentioned can be found on Wikipedia.
“I also placed a small packet upon a rock. This contained photographic plates intended to record cosmic rays… these had already been exposed for nearly a fortnight at Camp VII.”
“As I approached the tents, I was astonished to see a bird, a chough, strutting about on the stones near me. At every camp we had been visited by choughs; even at Camp VII there were two or three and I had wondered then whether we should find them on the Col. But, here the bird was, behaving in the same way at 26,000 feet as his cousins had at Base Camp. During this day, too, Charles Evans saw what must have been a migration of small grey birds across the Col. Neither of us had thought to find any signs of life as high as this.”
From the camp in the Col, Hunt describes getting a view of a scene he’d longed to see; the summit of Nepal Peak and close by Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. From there years before in 1937 he had looked north-west towards Everest and Lhotse. Now he was seeing the view in reverse. Apparently, one does not climb the highest mountain in the world, without having climbed a few other high mountains.
I found Hunt’s biography to be both inspiring and an entertaining adventure read. I liked the fact that he left the technical details for the appendix. And, I liked that he shared the beauty of the journey, as well as the details of the work. I thought he showed remarkable ability in organization, and displayed great talent as a leader. It’s obvious the British Geographical Society made a good decision in choosing him to lead. I recommend his account for anyone who likes adventure and travelogues.
August 25, 2010
The Conquest of Everest, Sir John Hunt. 1954. My condolences to those that wasted their precious time reading the pulp trash "Into Thin Air". And although the writing in this book is mediocre at best, it's importance in documenting one of the most well known accomplishments in the history of Himalayan mountaineering is unrivaled. The chapter written by Edmond Hillary of his summit attempt, far out shines Hunt's seventeen other chapters.
February 18, 2020
Книга Джона Ганта написана одразу по експедиції на Еверест 1953 р. Її опублікували англійською 1954 р. - рекордно короткий термін для тих часів.
І попри стислі терміни написання, це вартісний текст. Багато відгуків тут на goodreads кажуть, що він нудний. Гант, мовляв, пише різні логістичні деталі, які читачам непотрібні. А от розділ, написаний Гіларі – про сходження на вершину Евересту – найкращий.
Але я не згоден. Варто лише почитати додатки, щоб побачити, що таке реально нудні логістичні деталі: розкладки продуктів, технічні деталі спорядження тощо. А от Гант описує будні експедиції. Адже штурм Евересту – це тривале заняття. І "нудний" опис експедиції Гантом передає це відчуття важкої одноманітної роботи.
Після цього якраз і можна зрозуміти текст Гіларі. Не хочу спойлерити, але без занурення в цю отуплюбчу нудну рутину руху до Південного Сідла і вище, не зрозуміти, чому Гіларі так описує сходження.
Головний висновок цієї книги: експедиція 1953 р. – це була напіввоєнна операція, де потрібно було розпланувати дуже багато всього, підібрати команду, а також грамотно поставити перед нею задачі. І Гант з цим гідно впорався! Здається, це була перша (і остання) його експедиція на Еверест, але він впорався. Причому ніхто не загинув.
П.С. А ще цікаво дізнатися про світосприйняття англ. джентельмена першої половини ХХ ст. З тексту Ганта ці реалії прориваються між рядками
І попри стислі терміни написання, це вартісний текст. Багато відгуків тут на goodreads кажуть, що він нудний. Гант, мовляв, пише різні логістичні деталі, які читачам непотрібні. А от розділ, написаний Гіларі – про сходження на вершину Евересту – найкращий.
Але я не згоден. Варто лише почитати додатки, щоб побачити, що таке реально нудні логістичні деталі: розкладки продуктів, технічні деталі спорядження тощо. А от Гант описує будні експедиції. Адже штурм Евересту – це тривале заняття. І "нудний" опис експедиції Гантом передає це відчуття важкої одноманітної роботи.
Після цього якраз і можна зрозуміти текст Гіларі. Не хочу спойлерити, але без занурення в цю отуплюбчу нудну рутину руху до Південного Сідла і вище, не зрозуміти, чому Гіларі так описує сходження.
Головний висновок цієї книги: експедиція 1953 р. – це була напіввоєнна операція, де потрібно було розпланувати дуже багато всього, підібрати команду, а також грамотно поставити перед нею задачі. І Гант з цим гідно впорався! Здається, це була перша (і остання) його експедиція на Еверест, але він впорався. Причому ніхто не загинув.
П.С. А ще цікаво дізнатися про світосприйняття англ. джентельмена першої половини ХХ ст. З тексту Ганта ці реалії прориваються між рядками
February 15, 2015
This book was written by the leader of the Everest expedition that finally reached the summit in late spring 1953. Stylistically, he is very much the dry, stiff-upper-lip British gentleman, and the text is rather dry and lacking in personality or personal reflection. He doesn't do a great job explaining the reason for the various tasks the team had on the mountain, either. For a non-Alpinist, a lot of what they were doing was beyond my knowledge.
The chapter written by Sir Edmund Hillary was the one chapter that was written with a personable voice. Hillary, who was the member of the team who reached the summit along with the Sherpa Tenzing, was much the breath of fresh air.
The book is heavily illustrated with photographs and a few maps. There is a series of appendices in the back detailing some of mechanical aspects of the expedition.
Nevertheless, it was an interesting account, a true product of its day.
The chapter written by Sir Edmund Hillary was the one chapter that was written with a personable voice. Hillary, who was the member of the team who reached the summit along with the Sherpa Tenzing, was much the breath of fresh air.
The book is heavily illustrated with photographs and a few maps. There is a series of appendices in the back detailing some of mechanical aspects of the expedition.
Nevertheless, it was an interesting account, a true product of its day.
January 11, 2015
Il faut être un amoureux de l'alpinisme et un psychopathe de la logistique pour apprécier. Je dois être un peu des deux. Le livre a le mérite de restituer la mesure de la formidable aventure de l'ascension de l'Everest en 53. C'est passionnant. Cependant l'intérêt littéraire est limité, un peu trop "politiquement correct". De plus il m'a fallu me doter d'un "beau livre " sur l'ascension pour combler par quelque schémas et photos mon incompréhension de certaines descriptions.
Les records d'ascension, en cours, semblent alors décalés...
Les records d'ascension, en cours, semblent alors décalés...
June 18, 2023
Über die Erstbesteigung des Mount Everest wurden viele Bücher geschrieben und die meisten von ihnen handeln von Edmund Hillary und Tenzing Norgay. Die anderen Mitglieder der Expedition werden zwar erwähnt, spielen neben dem Erfolg von Hillary oft nur eine Nebenrolle. John Hunt erzählt auch von den Männern neben Hillary. In seinem Bericht sind alle gleichwertige Mitglieder einer Mission mit nur einem Ziel: der erfolgreichen Erstbesteigung des höchsten Gipfels der Welt.
Der Everest gilt neben dem Nord- und dem Südpol als der dritte Pol und damit die letzte Möglichkeit für die Briten, einen der Pole für sich zu beanspruchen und mit jedem gescheiterten Versuch wurde der Druck größer. Von dem Druck, der auf ihm gelastet haben muss, habe ich in dem Bericht kaum etwas gespürt. Im Gegenteil: ich habe die Erzählung über weite Strecken als sehr trocken empfunden. Weniger wie etwas, das für eine breite Leserschaft geschrieben wurde, mehr wie etwas, das man seinen Sponsoren vorlegt, um die Kosten zu rechtfertigen. Trotzdem war das Buch für mich nicht langweilig, denn John Hunt hat immer wieder Details berichtet, die mich überrascht haben. Eines davon war die Anreise per Schiff, um sich noch einmal zu erholen, bevor die Expedition losging. Diese Erholung wäre heute, wo man auch an den entlegensten Stellen per Internet mit der Welt verbunden wird, nicht mehr möglich.
Als die Männer auf ihrem Weg waren, gibt John Hunt seinen Lesern endlich auch ein wenig Einblick in seine Gefühlswelt. In seiner Erzählung kann man deutlich die Zerrissenheit zwischen all seinen Pflichten spüren. Den Weg zum Gipfel selbst beschreibt er fast schon Schritt für Schritt. Jeder Etappe wurde die gleiche Bedeutung zugemessen. So fiel die Entscheidung von Tom Bourdillon und Charles Evans, kurz vor dem Gipfel umzukehren und keinen weiteren Versuch zu unternehmen, genauso unaufgeregt erzählt wie der zweite, erfolgreiche Versuch. Aber ich kann mir auch vorstellen, dass die Stimmung der Männer wahrscheinlich auch so war. Auf dieser Höhe funktioniert man nur noch, da bleiben für große Gefühle kein Platz und auch keine Kraft mehr.
Als die große Tat vollbracht war, ging es überraschend schnell wieder nach Hause. Noch einmal innehalten und das Erlebte reflektieren, war den Männern wahrscheinlich nicht möglich. Vielleicht habe ich deshalb den Eindruck gewonnen, dass das Glückwunschtelegramm des Duke of Edinburgh fast noch wichtiger war als der Grund, warum es geschickt worden war.
Für mich ist John Hunt einer der vergessenen Helden am Mount Everest und in seinem Buch erzählt er von einem mir bis dahin unbekannten Teil der Expedition. Ich hätte mir nur gewünscht, er hätte es ein kleines bisschen spannender gemacht.
Der Everest gilt neben dem Nord- und dem Südpol als der dritte Pol und damit die letzte Möglichkeit für die Briten, einen der Pole für sich zu beanspruchen und mit jedem gescheiterten Versuch wurde der Druck größer. Von dem Druck, der auf ihm gelastet haben muss, habe ich in dem Bericht kaum etwas gespürt. Im Gegenteil: ich habe die Erzählung über weite Strecken als sehr trocken empfunden. Weniger wie etwas, das für eine breite Leserschaft geschrieben wurde, mehr wie etwas, das man seinen Sponsoren vorlegt, um die Kosten zu rechtfertigen. Trotzdem war das Buch für mich nicht langweilig, denn John Hunt hat immer wieder Details berichtet, die mich überrascht haben. Eines davon war die Anreise per Schiff, um sich noch einmal zu erholen, bevor die Expedition losging. Diese Erholung wäre heute, wo man auch an den entlegensten Stellen per Internet mit der Welt verbunden wird, nicht mehr möglich.
Als die Männer auf ihrem Weg waren, gibt John Hunt seinen Lesern endlich auch ein wenig Einblick in seine Gefühlswelt. In seiner Erzählung kann man deutlich die Zerrissenheit zwischen all seinen Pflichten spüren. Den Weg zum Gipfel selbst beschreibt er fast schon Schritt für Schritt. Jeder Etappe wurde die gleiche Bedeutung zugemessen. So fiel die Entscheidung von Tom Bourdillon und Charles Evans, kurz vor dem Gipfel umzukehren und keinen weiteren Versuch zu unternehmen, genauso unaufgeregt erzählt wie der zweite, erfolgreiche Versuch. Aber ich kann mir auch vorstellen, dass die Stimmung der Männer wahrscheinlich auch so war. Auf dieser Höhe funktioniert man nur noch, da bleiben für große Gefühle kein Platz und auch keine Kraft mehr.
Als die große Tat vollbracht war, ging es überraschend schnell wieder nach Hause. Noch einmal innehalten und das Erlebte reflektieren, war den Männern wahrscheinlich nicht möglich. Vielleicht habe ich deshalb den Eindruck gewonnen, dass das Glückwunschtelegramm des Duke of Edinburgh fast noch wichtiger war als der Grund, warum es geschickt worden war.
Für mich ist John Hunt einer der vergessenen Helden am Mount Everest und in seinem Buch erzählt er von einem mir bis dahin unbekannten Teil der Expedition. Ich hätte mir nur gewünscht, er hätte es ein kleines bisschen spannender gemacht.
April 8, 2022
Hunt gives a workmanlike but uninspiring account (probably not helped by the requirement to rush the book out within a month of their return to England!) Hillary's chapter on the peak is noticeably more lively and less pompous, but he had the advantage of only needing to contribute one...
Not the most engaging of the various British Everest expedition reports compared with the 1920s and 1930s accounts, but it does the job.
Not the most engaging of the various British Everest expedition reports compared with the 1920s and 1930s accounts, but it does the job.
July 15, 2024
Fantastic book which is itching my climbing bug - mental how they did it back in the 50s compared to the eqt we have today
May 8, 2017
I loved this book. Have read many Everest books, and this is one which I would use to replace the acres of "management" and "team building" books cluttering up bookshops. (Perhaps one other: about Shackelton's leadership during his abortive Antarctic expedition).
This book is old-fashioned in values, and style. It is about unfashionable concepts such as: absence of personal glory ('me-ism'). In this successful endeavour, accomplishment does not depend on tearing down what has gone before, it does not emphasise "the power of one", rather the contributions and power of many.
It is redolent of : trust, enlightened leadership, graciousness, reliability, collective spirit and ability.
I found fascinating the detail of how the "assault" was undertaken.
One quote which sums up the spirit of the venture:
" The mission we undertook was not, in our eyes, in the nature of some competition on a giant scale in which we vied to outdo the efforts of previous expeditions, dramatic and popular as such a concept might be. Indeed, prolonged attempts t climb a difficult mountain are, or should be, essentially different from those of a competitive sport. A possible analogy, however, might be that of a relay race, in which each member of a team of runners hands the baton to the next at tthe end of the allotted span, until the race is finally run. The Swiss last year received that baton of knowledge from the latest in the long chain of British climbers and they in turn, after running a brilliant lap, passed it on to us. We chanced to be the last runners in this particular race, but we might well not have succeeded in finishing, in which case we would have handed on our knowledge to our French comrades who were preparing to take up the challenge."
This book is old-fashioned in values, and style. It is about unfashionable concepts such as: absence of personal glory ('me-ism'). In this successful endeavour, accomplishment does not depend on tearing down what has gone before, it does not emphasise "the power of one", rather the contributions and power of many.
It is redolent of : trust, enlightened leadership, graciousness, reliability, collective spirit and ability.
I found fascinating the detail of how the "assault" was undertaken.
One quote which sums up the spirit of the venture:
" The mission we undertook was not, in our eyes, in the nature of some competition on a giant scale in which we vied to outdo the efforts of previous expeditions, dramatic and popular as such a concept might be. Indeed, prolonged attempts t climb a difficult mountain are, or should be, essentially different from those of a competitive sport. A possible analogy, however, might be that of a relay race, in which each member of a team of runners hands the baton to the next at tthe end of the allotted span, until the race is finally run. The Swiss last year received that baton of knowledge from the latest in the long chain of British climbers and they in turn, after running a brilliant lap, passed it on to us. We chanced to be the last runners in this particular race, but we might well not have succeeded in finishing, in which case we would have handed on our knowledge to our French comrades who were preparing to take up the challenge."
March 19, 2016
I found this book to be better written in writing style than those written by Hillary himself. The down side of it is the minute details of every bit of the trek to Everest and all the things they did before climbing the mountain. In many ways though, climbers today are spoiled in that they can fly in close to Everest and avoid the long trek and the expedition leader takes care of all the arrangements and setting up the camps. A lot of modern climbers may never have got to the top if they had experienced this kind of expedition or Maurice Herzog's Annapurna experiences.
I liked the second half of the book where it deals more with the time on the mountain, how the pairs were chosen and the order they were to go up in. It brings to the fore all the unsung heroes who gave everything they had to assist the successful team without getting the glory or the chance to be part of it. Those who liked Annapurna may well like this.
I liked the second half of the book where it deals more with the time on the mountain, how the pairs were chosen and the order they were to go up in. It brings to the fore all the unsung heroes who gave everything they had to assist the successful team without getting the glory or the chance to be part of it. Those who liked Annapurna may well like this.
March 19, 2020
I would have liked to give this book 5 stars if only for the subject matter and heroic achievement of the author, Sir John Hunt, and his team in conquering Everest for the first time in 1953 but it is so dry! It's the most comprehensive document of every piece of equipment and food item taken and how they got it from A to B to C to... The detail is so overwhelming that I ended up skim reading it until they got to Base Camp and then I didn't see it getting a lot better so skipped to the chapter by Sir Edmund Hilary about that momentous day, 29th May 1953, when he and Sherpa Tenzing reached the summit and made it back down alive.
The amount of organisation that went into this trip was hugely impressive given this was the early 1950s and involved people on different continents but it does not make for interesting reading.
The amount of organisation that went into this trip was hugely impressive given this was the early 1950s and involved people on different continents but it does not make for interesting reading.
May 2, 2011
I took this book on holiday with me. Interested in Everest and those that have climbed her over the years.
From the start, this book is well written. John Hunt was there and you get to feel just a small part just what they went through in the Himalaya. The other striking thing is how `primitive' their equipment was and the challenges they faced in the weeks it took them to even arrive at the mountain.
This is one of the greatest adventure stories of all time and with John Hunt's brilliant commentary the reader gets an amazing insight into these `Heroes' lives, ambitions and disappointments. A truly inspiring account & a proper 'boys own' adventure.
From the start, this book is well written. John Hunt was there and you get to feel just a small part just what they went through in the Himalaya. The other striking thing is how `primitive' their equipment was and the challenges they faced in the weeks it took them to even arrive at the mountain.
This is one of the greatest adventure stories of all time and with John Hunt's brilliant commentary the reader gets an amazing insight into these `Heroes' lives, ambitions and disappointments. A truly inspiring account & a proper 'boys own' adventure.
February 1, 2016
An incredible story told in a very factual, straightforward and unemotianal way. Refreshingly devoid of the usual plethora of superlatives that many books recounting remarkable events such as this stray into using. Today Everest has been varioulsy described as a very strenuous walk however back in 1953 when this first successful ascent was acheived, supplyng oxygen was still at the experimental stage and communication for the most part was a telegram, although Hunt's description of how the radio set caused much confusion with the Sherpa team is amusing in its very human way. Definitely worth a read if you can get a copy of course; 4.5 out of 5.
October 24, 2011
I enjoyed reading this debut novel. While the story, utlimately, is sad, I found the progression of the sisters' lives to be interesting. Despite the disturbing nature, this story had my full attention. I particularly thought the way the truth was handled near the end was captivating. This was not a subject I've read about before. I wonder if the author's experiences will bring about more stories that are similar in theme.
December 8, 2013
The 1954 classic of climbing, written by the leader of the 1953 successful Everest expedition that saw the summit push by Tenzing and Hillary. Written in a Englishman’s typically understated style, the book nonetheless brings alive the supreme challenge of the world’s tallest mountain. I subsequently did the Everest Base Camp trek in the winter of 2010, and traversed much of the path leading to the mountain as described by Hunt – a thrilling experience of re-living the book as it were!
April 22, 2012
The detail in this book is a delight to read. Written by John Hunt, the expedition leader, just after the ascent of everest. It tells how expeditions happened back in the day. It describes, day by day, walking in from Darjeeling, all the way through roadless Nepal, to finally ascend Everest. Incredible feat of organisation.
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March 12, 2010Excellent stuff. Manages to combine refreshingly un-imperial attitudes to non-Brits (i.e. treats the Sherpas as real people, albeit a little patronisingly - some modern mountaineers could learn a lot) with great stiff-upper-lip stoicism.
March 12, 2010
Excellent stuff. Manages to combine refreshingly un-imperial attitudes to non-Brits (i.e. treats the Sherpas as real people, albeit a little patronisingly - some modern mountaineers could learn a lot) with great stiff-upper-lip stoicism.
October 28, 2013
First ascent of Everest, an amazing achievement. Great way to learn more about it, and the perspective of those involved. So modest, undramatic and to the point, not dramatized at all. A true reflection of amazing piece of history.
January 28, 2015
Understated stiff upper lip Britbook. I greatly appreciate the title, which Lord Hunt insisted on for the English edition. The American edition was called the Conquest. Lord Hunt felt that was arrogant, but his objections were over-ridden.
January 6, 2018
Written in 1953 John Hunt's narrative of this major climbing achievement is told in an open, honest and direct way. He comes across as modest, given what was accomplished and the story unfolds in matter-of-fact way that only serves to frame the extraordinary events to good effect. Very readable.
August 14, 2007
the original summitting of everest, a must read for anyone into this genre!
November 7, 2011
Nice story.
November 16, 2011
Young Adam is included in this short anthology, and that's the only text of value you'll find in this book. The rest of Outsiders is not worth reading. That said from a big fan of Trocchi's.
July 14, 2012
Superb account of the first ascent if Everest for all it's arrogance. A must read
June 18, 2013
An interesting account of climbing the world's greatest mountain by Sir John Hunt, commander of the expedition.
September 24, 2013
Love the history, to many words, could have said more with less.
March 30, 2015
Excellent real life struggle to climb Everest. Remarkable tale of bravery and determination
May 28, 2015
Отличное описание экспедиции, которая впервые покорила Эверест, с организаторской точки зрения - снаряжение, устройство лагерей и так далее.
June 18, 2016
Interesting subject but presented in such a dry and dull manner.
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