In Search of Angels: Travels to the Edge of the World

by Alistair Moffat

Fourteen centuries ago, Irish saints brought the Word of God to the Hebrides and Scotland’s Atlantic shore. These ‘white martyrs’ sought solitude, remoteness, even harshness, in places apart from the world where they could fast, pray and move closer to an understanding of places where they could see angels. Columba, who founded the famous monastery at Iona, was the most well-known of these courageous men who rowed their curraghs towards danger and uncertainty in a pagan land, but the many others are now largely forgotten by history. In this book, Alistair Moffat journeys from the island of Eileach an Naoimh at the mouth of the Firth of Lorne to Lismore, Iona and then north to Applecross, searching for traces of these extraordinary men. He finds them not often in any tangible remains, but in the spirit of the islands and remote places where they passed their exemplary lives. Brendan, Moluag, Columba, Maelrubha and others brought the Gaelic language and echoes of how the saints saw their world can still be heard in its cadences. And the tradition of great piety endures.

Genres: History, Scotland, Travel, Nonfiction, Religion, Audiobook

298 pages, Hardcover

First published December 1, 2020

About the author

Alistair Moffat is an award winning writer, historian and former Director of the Edinburgh Festival Fringe and Director of Programmes at Scottish Television.

Moffat was educated at the University of St Andrews, graduating in 1972 with a degree in Medieval History. He is the founder of the Borders Book Festival and Co-Chairman of The Great Tapestry of Scotland.

Reviews

[Pam · Rating 3 out of 5]

The historical information in Moffat’s book interested me the most, especially the relationship between the ideas of the early desert fathers who practiced “white” martyrdom (leaving family, comforts, and safety) for lives of isolation and sometimes missionary work, compared with Irish monks some 500 years later. When Christians were no longer in grave danger of “red” martyrdom at the hands of emperors and barbarians Moffat feels they sometimes turned toward white martyrdom as a way to demonstrate devotion and as a way to spread their religion. Noted personalities in Ireland sailed across the “water desert” in small oxhide boats to the wilds of Northern Scotland and its largely uninhabited small islands. St. Patrick was noted for training monks and saints such as Brendan and Columba who took up these missions. Moffat details what is known of these 5th and 6th century men and a very few women. Often the mission was just to isolate themselves and live lives of contemplation and physical suffering.

The author then takes up a personal mission to visit places these monks removed themselves to such as Eileach an Naoimah. I lost some interest at this point. There are no photos. Ironically, Moffat can’t swim and is afraid of heights, things that might have elevated his ability for saintly suffering in the time of these Irish monks.

[Chris Tyson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Somewhere between travel writing and a history of the saints of Western Scotland, this book is actually quite interesting and informative and performs well in both regards. It could probably do with a section of pictures, but overall is a good introduction to the subject. The author talks at length about Gaelic, and whilst this is relevant and interesting, I did think it detracted from the flow a little.

[Hella · Rating 2 out of 5]

Halverwege gestopt, wat een pedant mannetje.

[Murdo Murchison · Rating 5 out of 5]

A good read, giving a nice overview of some of Scotland's early history and influence of the Church in Scotlands development. The author visits a number of islands and places and gives his experience along with an overview of the early history of the place. He often gives insight in to Scottish culture and feeling as well. Worth reading beforehand if visiting Oban, Iona, Lismore, Applecross etc or if you just want to learn about some Sottish islands.

[Mdaly · Rating 2 out of 5]

I kept expecting some sort of a religious epiphany from the author but it never came.

Alistair noted that he was an atheist early on in the book so I found it discordant that he was retelling and admiring the lives of Saints and monks who courageously travelled the West coast of Scotland seeking solitude but also bringing Christianity to sometimes hostile pagan tribes.

I never really resolved that dichotomy satisfactorily in my own mind. It was brought home in a jarring way when he talked about lighting candles in a church for his two grandchildren, one Hannah who was dead. He says, as he cried he has hope for Grace but 'for Hannah, there will be nothing except remembrance'.
For all the admiration Moffat has for his subjects his lack of religious sensibility seems to create an unavoidable distance between him and the monks. It made the book seem more of an anthropological study.

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

The thought of travelling from Ireland to Scotland in a flimsy boat made of wood and cowhide may now seem foolhardy but it was a normal and regular means of travel for Irish monks many centuries ago. Moffat follows the trail of these 6th century monks who were seeking solitude or wanted to spread the gospel. His research is extensive and he gives a good understanding of the trials and experiences of these monks. He also provides some general information on the history of Scotland and describes the people he meets. The book is informative and balances his historical research and his own travels effectively. He provides vivid descriptions of the terrain and scenery of Western Scotland. I particularly enjoyed his description of sleeping overnight on the sand in Iona and his drive over Bealach na Ba into Applecross.

[Karen Koppy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed the way the author combined the past with his current travels. It was a spiritual book without a lot of religiosity. I read this while on a trip to the northern island of Scotland - Iona. At the end of the day on the island I decided to go back to a knitting shop but it was closed. I walked by myself back to the ferry and it felt almost surreal with the mist in the air and the old structures. And no one around. Quite an interesting experience.

[Madeline · Rating 4 out of 5]

Moffat is fascinated by the early Christian monks who sought to emulate the desert fathers in the Hebrides. They travelled by shallow draught boats across the sea from Ireland seeking isolation on the islands and the mainland of northern Scotland where they could “see angels”.
Moffat has researched this subject deeply and tells his story of his travels well. Maps and pictures of his travels would have added to the story but his word pictures are very evocative.

[Dan McCollum · Rating 5 out of 5]

Poetic and beautifully written. I've always got a soft spot for these works which intertwine history and story with the author's reflections on a given landscape.

Moffat's obvious love for the Isles comes through and helps ground the narrative. For this looking for a more standard history, the author also supplies a helpful bibliography of sources to further explore.

[Josie Deryn · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5!

[Robin · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a beautiful and spiritual travelogue visiting the original 'holy' sites of Western Scotland. Resonated and filled me with longing.

[Ashley · Rating 3 out of 5]

I've read a few of this author's books and enjoyed them thoroughly. This one, however, does not "flow". At times it felt like I was reading the notes for a TV programme.

[Al · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent book to read while travelling through the Hebrides.

[Keith Taylor · Rating 5 out of 5]

A bit verbose, but the lore and history of the evangelizing Irish monks, in the second half of the first millenium, is fascinating.

[Bethany · Rating 3 out of 5]

A well crafted writing style, but it's a mix of history and memoir and never quite figures out which one to be, to its detriment.