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A Window to Heaven: The Daring First Ascent of Denali: America's Wildest Peak
The captivating and heroic story of Hudson Stuck—an Episcopal priest—and his team's history-making summit of Denali.
In 1913, four men made a months-long journey by dog sled to the base of the tallest mountain in North America. Several groups had already tried but failed to reach the top of a mountain whose size—occupying 120 square miles of the earth’s surface —and position as the Earth’s northernmost peak of more than 6,000 meters elevation make it one of the world’s deadliest mountains. Although its height from base to top is actually greater than Everest’s, it is Denali's weather, not altitude, that have caused the great majority of fatalities—over a hundred since 1903.
Denali experiences weather more severe than the North Pole, with temperatures of forty below zero and winds that howl at 80 to 100 miles per hour for days at a stretch. But in 1913 none of this mattered to Hudson Stuck, a fifty-year old Episcopal priest, Harry Karstens, the hardened Alaskan wilderness guide, Walter Harper, part of the Koyukon people, and Robert Tatum, a divinity student, both just in their twenties. They were all determined to be the first to set foot on top of Denali.
In A Window to Heaven, Patrick Dean brings to life this heart-pounding and spellbinding feat of this first ascent and paints a rich portrait of the frontier at the turn of the twentieth century. The story of Stuck and his team will lead us through the Texas frontier and Tennessee mountains to an encounter with Jack London at the peak of the Yukon Goldrush. We experience Stuck's awe at the rich Inuit and Athabascan indigenous traditions—and his efforts to help preserve these ways of life.
Filled with daring exploration and rich history, A Window to Heaven is a brilliant and spellbinding narrative of success against the odds.
In 1913, four men made a months-long journey by dog sled to the base of the tallest mountain in North America. Several groups had already tried but failed to reach the top of a mountain whose size—occupying 120 square miles of the earth’s surface —and position as the Earth’s northernmost peak of more than 6,000 meters elevation make it one of the world’s deadliest mountains. Although its height from base to top is actually greater than Everest’s, it is Denali's weather, not altitude, that have caused the great majority of fatalities—over a hundred since 1903.
Denali experiences weather more severe than the North Pole, with temperatures of forty below zero and winds that howl at 80 to 100 miles per hour for days at a stretch. But in 1913 none of this mattered to Hudson Stuck, a fifty-year old Episcopal priest, Harry Karstens, the hardened Alaskan wilderness guide, Walter Harper, part of the Koyukon people, and Robert Tatum, a divinity student, both just in their twenties. They were all determined to be the first to set foot on top of Denali.
In A Window to Heaven, Patrick Dean brings to life this heart-pounding and spellbinding feat of this first ascent and paints a rich portrait of the frontier at the turn of the twentieth century. The story of Stuck and his team will lead us through the Texas frontier and Tennessee mountains to an encounter with Jack London at the peak of the Yukon Goldrush. We experience Stuck's awe at the rich Inuit and Athabascan indigenous traditions—and his efforts to help preserve these ways of life.
Filled with daring exploration and rich history, A Window to Heaven is a brilliant and spellbinding narrative of success against the odds.
336 pages, Hardcover
First published March 2, 2021
39 people are currently reading
1608 people want to read
About the author
Patrick Dean
4 books20 followersPatrick Dean writes on the outdoors, outdoor athletes, and the environment. He has worked as a teacher, a political media director, and is presently the executive director of a rail-trail nonprofit. An avid trail-runner, paddler, and mountain-biker, he lives with his wife and dogs on the Cumberland Plateau in Tennessee.
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Displaying 1 - 18 of 18 reviews
February 3, 2021
I LOVE polar exploration stories for some reason, and although this isn't quite polar, it is a super cold story. Haha. It intertwines the very interesting life of Archdeacon Stuck with his daring ascent of Denali in 1913. I loved it! (Full review coming for Shelf Awareness.)
May 18, 2024
The story of the epic first summit of Denali, and so much more. A wonderful portrait of the man, Hudson Stuck, and his love for the native peoples of Alaska.
February 17, 2025
For some reason, never having been a climber at all, I love mountain climbing stories. (I do love mountains, grew up next to the Sierra Nevadas and did some backpacking.). This is a mountain climbing story with a bit extra. It is a biography of Hudson Stuck, whom I had never heard of. He was born in England in 1863 and lived through the great age of explorer-discoverer-amateur scientists when a well read white man with a spirit of adventure and a great amount of "grit" could get together an expedition and go places no white person had ever been, make new discoveries. When Stuck was born Charles Darwin was just publishing his theories.
Stuck was a bit outside even that model. Maybe the closest parallel would be John Muir , born 30 years earlier. Both had a passion for wilderness and its preservation and were early champions of national parks. Both spent much of their lives hiking and climbing in natural and wild places and traveling and writing and speaking about it. John Muir's most beloved area was the Sierra Nevadas, but he also spent a lot of time in Alaska. Stuck's most beloved area was Alaska, but he traveled and climbed in Colorado, the Alps, and many other places.
Hudson Stuck was an Episcopalian preacher and missionary as well as a climber and explorer. He apparently had an openness of heart and mind unusual in English missionaries of the time (the height of the British Empire, colonizing and conquering). Stuck devoted much of his life to championing the cause of Alaskan indigenous people, working to help preserve their languages and cultures and ways of life. One example was that he fought hard against the development of salmon fisheries/ canneries on the Yukon River because the native people and their sled dogs depended on those salmon. He did convert and baptize native Alaskans, but he never tried to take them out of their languages or cultures.
Maybe half the book is the actual ascent of Denali. One of Stuck's lifelong fights was to get the indigenous name Denali restored to what was then called Mt. McKinley. It took 100 years after Stuck 's climb and espousal of restoration of the name for Obama to make it official. And only ten years later Trump is putting back the colonial name. Hopefully that will be a temporary aberration.
Anyway close to half the book is the story of Stuck's three months on the mountain with five companions, two of whom were indigenous people. Stuck was the most experienced mountaineer but was 50 years old. By today standards they had very little and very primitive equipment. Temperatures on the mountain ranged from minus 50⁰ F to plus 50⁰, very hot when you are in direct sun, high altitude, thin atmosphere, dressed in furs, exerting yourself. They spent many days trapped in their tent, with little to do except try to stay warm and wait for a break in the weather.
The three star rating is because the writing is a bit dry and before and after the mountain, not so much going on. Actually in those times , Stuck traveled 10,000 miles by dogsled visiting and ministering to the most remote Alaskan villages. But Dean spends very little description on all that. I think you have to be like me, a patient reader who loves mountain stories to get through this. But if you are, then this is your book.
Stuck was a bit outside even that model. Maybe the closest parallel would be John Muir , born 30 years earlier. Both had a passion for wilderness and its preservation and were early champions of national parks. Both spent much of their lives hiking and climbing in natural and wild places and traveling and writing and speaking about it. John Muir's most beloved area was the Sierra Nevadas, but he also spent a lot of time in Alaska. Stuck's most beloved area was Alaska, but he traveled and climbed in Colorado, the Alps, and many other places.
Hudson Stuck was an Episcopalian preacher and missionary as well as a climber and explorer. He apparently had an openness of heart and mind unusual in English missionaries of the time (the height of the British Empire, colonizing and conquering). Stuck devoted much of his life to championing the cause of Alaskan indigenous people, working to help preserve their languages and cultures and ways of life. One example was that he fought hard against the development of salmon fisheries/ canneries on the Yukon River because the native people and their sled dogs depended on those salmon. He did convert and baptize native Alaskans, but he never tried to take them out of their languages or cultures.
Maybe half the book is the actual ascent of Denali. One of Stuck's lifelong fights was to get the indigenous name Denali restored to what was then called Mt. McKinley. It took 100 years after Stuck 's climb and espousal of restoration of the name for Obama to make it official. And only ten years later Trump is putting back the colonial name. Hopefully that will be a temporary aberration.
Anyway close to half the book is the story of Stuck's three months on the mountain with five companions, two of whom were indigenous people. Stuck was the most experienced mountaineer but was 50 years old. By today standards they had very little and very primitive equipment. Temperatures on the mountain ranged from minus 50⁰ F to plus 50⁰, very hot when you are in direct sun, high altitude, thin atmosphere, dressed in furs, exerting yourself. They spent many days trapped in their tent, with little to do except try to stay warm and wait for a break in the weather.
The three star rating is because the writing is a bit dry and before and after the mountain, not so much going on. Actually in those times , Stuck traveled 10,000 miles by dogsled visiting and ministering to the most remote Alaskan villages. But Dean spends very little description on all that. I think you have to be like me, a patient reader who loves mountain stories to get through this. But if you are, then this is your book.
August 10, 2025
This book was a fascinating account - not 'only' about the excruciating ascent of Denali but about the personalities of the men involved, and their internal disputes which nevertheless were not allowed to halt or even delay this incredible expedition. I loved reading about the Archdeacon and his tireless efforts on behalf of the Alaskan native inhabitants - his life would have made a great biography even if, oh by the way, he hadn't been in the first party to summit the highest mountain in North America. (for those of you saying "hey, I thought that was Mt.. McKinley!" you are correct! Denali was the mountain's original name before, you know, we decided we owned everything.) It is inspiring to read about somebody who spent his entire life trying to do the good and right thing. It is reassuring to read about Christian missionaries who truly wanted to help, to do good, to spread the Gospel of Jesus Christ without taking anything away from the original inhabitants of the land. I can't even begin to understand why people do such things as climb icy dangerous airless mountains. I'd be reading about the frozen feet and the near starvation and the crevasses and avalanches and the terrible terrible suffering from the lack of oxygen, the 'torture' of the sun's rays unshielded by enough oxygen, etc. etc. etc. and I'd be feeling so sorry for them and then I'd be like 'hey! This isn't some forced death march! They not only chose this but they spent a fortune in money, time and other resources to do this!' It seems crazy to me, frankly, but all you mountaineering types - you go. Because, you know, it's there.
October 19, 2021
'A Window to Heaven' by Patrick Dean is a well-written account of the first successful ascent of Mt. Denali in 1913 along with fairly detailed biographical information of co-leader Hudson Stuck. To a lesser degree, there are also biographical sketches of co-leader Harry Karstens, Walter Harper (the first man to the top), and forth member Bill Tatum. While quite readable, this book will appeal to a limited audience of folks interested in the subject matter.
I read the digital version. I am an Alaskan and fairly familiar with both the characters and the geography of the mountain. Having said that, the book would greatly benefit from a couple of detailed maps of the mountain, climbing route, and key climbing features. Also there are a couple of place name errors which most Alaskans will notice and should be corrected.
Besides that, a good book if the subject is of interest.
I read the digital version. I am an Alaskan and fairly familiar with both the characters and the geography of the mountain. Having said that, the book would greatly benefit from a couple of detailed maps of the mountain, climbing route, and key climbing features. Also there are a couple of place name errors which most Alaskans will notice and should be corrected.
Besides that, a good book if the subject is of interest.
June 9, 2021
This is a well-researched and carefully written story of a group of adventurers climbing Denali’s southern peak. Patrick Dean is careful to include multiple perspectives of the climbers through his effective use of their journals and other primary sources to tell the story. Still, central to the narrative is Episcopal Archdeacon Hudson Stuck. By framing the story through Stuck’s life, the climb is seen as not only a tale of adventure but also one of faith, particularly the faith Stuck had in indigenous Alaskans and his desire to protect their way of life.
February 15, 2023
I can’t finish this book, and I only made it 12 pages in. The author leaves A LOT to be desired in what should be an interesting and exciting historical account. Instead, he loses credibility almost immediately by constantly using terms like “white culture,” which are woefully misleading and ignorant in relation to what he is actually writing about. Looking at historical achievements through a modern, and I’ll say if, a woke lens, let’s the reader know that you have your own agenda in retelling this story. I cannot NOT recommend this book, or author, enough. I’ll be throwing my copy away.
May 9, 2021
The first third of the book is somewhat biographical regarding the main character. It seemed to drag on just a bit, although, is does set up the tone for events and ending. I did learn a lot of history regarding the peak and the characters involved in the first ascent, and names I was unfamiliar with regarding historic exploration. These enthusiasts did these adventures without the modern conveniences we have today. An enjoyable history.
March 25, 2022
Once we get to the actual account of the ascent, this is a captivating and thoroughly enjoyable read. Before that, which is over half the book, it's pretty dry and overly-informative as a narrative. Still a great research resource.
September 8, 2024
Good summation of the first successful summit climb of Denali with a focus of the life of Hudson Stuck who received the primary credit but as author Dean tells the story Stuck is but a member of a four person team--- and the weakest one physically.
October 13, 2025
Actual review - 2.75- Overall, a ok book. Something never clicked with me about the way this was written. Likewise, there were a lot of side tangents and circling back to certain points that I thought were distracting or unnecessary.
July 5, 2021
Personally I didn't love it. Points of the book came across a little creepy with the relationship between stuck and his companions. Not really an adventure book. More of a religious book.
July 16, 2021
3.5 stars
January 17, 2022
Not the sort of book I expected to like, but I did. Very much.
June 5, 2022
This was my second read through of A Window to Heaven. I really enjoyed it!
February 6, 2024
Interesting and detailed history of an epic journey. Great read.
February 2, 2025
Fascinating story about a man from England that ended up in Alaska via Texas. A remarkable story of how he ended up organizing and participating in the first successful Ascent of Denali.
September 12, 2023
Very interesting account of the first people to climb America’s highest peak Denali, in Alaska.
Displaying 1 - 18 of 18 reviews