Classic Restaurants of Des Moines and Their Recipes

by Darcy Dougherty-Maulsby

With Italian steakhouses, the Younkers Tea Room and Stella's Blue Sky Diner, Des Moines's culinary history is tantalizingly diverse. It is filled with colorful characters like bootlegger/"millionaire bus boy" Babe Bisignano, a buxom bar owner named Ruthie and future president of the United States Ronald Reagan. The savory details reveal deeper stories of race relations, women's rights, Iowa caucus politics, the arts, immigration and assimilation. Don't be surprised if you experience sudden cravings for Steak de Burgo, fried pork tenderloin sandwiches and chocolate ambrosia pie, à la Bishop's Buffet. Author Darcy Dougherty Maulsby serves up a feast of Des Moines classics mixed with Iowa history, complete with iconic recipes.

208 pages, Paperback

Published November 2, 2020

Reviews

[Al · Rating 4 out of 5]

The audience for this book is admittedly limited but if you are interested in Des Moines history or Iowa history or I suppose Midwestern cuisine history, it is worthwhile

This was a gift, but I really enjoyed it. I am someone who moved to Des Moines so much of this was new to me - and right or wrong- the focus is largely on defunct restaurants, with most info on current restaurants just quickly appended at the end

The chapters are grouped by topic and I think that works well. It covers a few interesting personalities- Ronald Reagan, Ruthie Bisigiano (bartender turned feminist icon whose name became the best selling Exile Brewing Beer), the colorful Babe Bisigano- boxer turned bootlegger turned respected restauranter and Edna Griffin- the civil rights pioneer who predated Rosa Parks.

There are certain things that are iconic and specific to the area- Steak de Burgo, The Younkers Tea Room and the Caucuses. As other reviewers have mentioned- the book pulls a lot from the Lost Des Moines Facebook page, Bill Bryson’s “Adventure of the Thunderbolt Kid”, interviews and newspaper clippings. I don’t think this is a bad thing because it does capture the right amount of info.

Living the last 20 years in Des Moines, there were only a couple of things I remembered, as the book is largely focused on 20th Century Des Moines.

Also, as advertised, there are recipes which is a nice touch. I worry about books like this that they won’t have enough content for the money, but I felt satisfied here.

If you are interested in this topic, then it is very much worthwhile.

[Rebekah · Rating 4 out of 5]

While this book might not be very engaging to someone who’s never been to Des Moines, as a local chef and a 6 year resident of Des Moines, I found it fascinating. I really enjoyed understanding the culinary and cultural roots of the place I now call home. While new restaurants are always fun, it’s neat to appreciate all the people and places that set the stage for the culinary treat Des Moines is today.

[Megan Bygness · Rating 3 out of 5]

If you’re interested in Des Moines restaurant history, read it. You won’t be bowled over by the amazing writing— it’s rather clunky, at best— however, the information presented would be hard to find in one place elsewhere. It definitely relies on too many anecdotes from the same people over and over who must be acquaintances of the author who happened to grow up in Des Moines. Either way, I appreciated learning more about some of the DSM food histories I’ve wondered about since moving here.

[Joy Kidney · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a delicious book of local history and food. I was surprised that the longest lived restaurant in Des Moines was Chinese, from the early 1900s. Growing up on a farm less than an hour from the capitol city, it was quite an outing to shop in downtown and enjoy the ambiance of a nice restaurant. Some have surprising histories, along with their owners, including one who would boss his customers about their eating habits.

There are stories about Younkers Tea Room to Tasty Tacos, Bishop's Cafeteria to Porky's Drive-in. And so many about restaurants run by Italian immigrants.

This is the first book I've read with quotations from a Facebook page, but the "Lost Des Moines" page is a place to find a wealth of wonderful stories.

Even the Bibliography is delightful, with books by Bill Bryson and Chuck Offenburger.

[Christina McCleary · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book was a little clunky and had some typos, but overall I enjoyed the read. As someone born and raised in the Des Moines area, and is a lover of food, this was a fun read. Lots of great history lies with the food of Des Moines and it was interesting to hear how happenings outside and inside of our state played into the food scene.

[Kelli · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was a fun, quick read. I learned a lot about my city and made some connections I didn’t realize before. I love nostalgia and this book oozes it. Loved learning some of the history behind restaurants in Des Moines!

[Melissa Marwedel · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you are interested in Des Moines history, you can learn a lot from this book. I had no idea some of these amazing restaurants ever existed. I found myself reading passages aloud to my family. Great pictures, newspaper clippings and illustrations also help to tell the story.