Out of work, out of love, drowning in debt, and lost in Japan. In a last-ditch attempt to be happy with his life, award-winning travel writer Todd Wassel sets out to walk the 750-mile, 88-temple Shikoku Henro pilgrimage.
But why does he have to make it so hard on himself?
Sleeping outside, armed with a Japanese map to guide him, Todd is helped along his way by a wandering ascetic hiding from the Freemasons; naked Yakuza trying to shake him down; a scam artist pilgrim; and a Buddhist monk who hates America but loves beef jerky.
Can he find what he’s looking for before the path, or his new friends, break him?
Walking in Circles is a fun, inspirational travel memoir filled with interesting characters and a Japan that tourists never see.
Join Todd Wassel on his unforgettable Japanese adventure! You’ll be shocked at what you find on the backroads of Japan.
I took a short trip to Japan over 20 years ago and kept going. I've now spent more of my life living aboard than I did growing up in the US.
During the day I run international aid projects that hopefully make the world a nicer place. In the early mornings and late evenings I'm either writing, walking or relaxing on a porch, preferably with a drink and a view. I'm a sucker for strong coffee, adventures, and friends who pretend they haven't heard all of my stories.
WALKING IN CIRCLES is my debut book, but I've written in other back alleyways too. I write regularly on my website ToddWassel.com. I won the People’s Choice Award in the Southeast Asia Travel Writing Competition and have been featured in Lonely Planet, the Diplomat and ABC Australia. Not to mention the thousands of family photo albums I must be a part of by now!
I've worked in and traveled to more than 45 countries. I started out teaching English in Japan for over half a decade, was a conflict and mediation advisor in Timor-Leste, a human rights advocate in Sri Lanka, and a hiking consultant in Kosovo, a job I still doesn’t know why I left. Yes, there are degrees that make you qualified to do all of those things!
I've has seen the sun rise over Machu Pichu and from the top of Mount Fuji, dived the reefs of the Maldives, Indonesia and Thailand, honeymooned in Bosnia and Herzegovina, danced for days at weddings in India, and walked the 750-mile pilgrimage to the 88 temples of Shikoku Japan, twice.
I currently live near the banks of the Mekong river in Vientiane, Laos with my wife and two small kids. We split our time between Laos, Japan and the US
If you have a book about walking in Japan, I'm going to love it, only distracted slightly by my anger and jealousy over not being able to find the time to do any such thing myself.
Wassel gives us a simple version here of a young man trying to find himself, and in a way trying to find out what he wants to find out.
Lot's of characters enter and leave, as happens on a journey like this, and they ring true because Wassel never shines them up too much or tries to make them say the perfect thing at the perfect time.
Recommended for a quick read while you can't walk too.
In "Walking in Circles" Todd Wassel recounts his second time walking the 750 mile and 88-temple Shikoku pilgrimage in Japan. As a "henro" in search of enlightenment, he dresses in white to signify death and separation from society. For a fee of $5, a stamp plus calligraphy can be added to his "kakejiku"or hanging scroll, at each temple. Todd learns that a completed scroll is worth several thousand dollars to collectors, and he is warned to guard it carefully for fear of unscrupulous robbers... However, it is the journey itself that is the prize, as he navigates steep mountains, paths through paddy fields and killer snakes known as "mamushi." A series of very interesting characters cross his path as he tries to "finally figure out what he wants to be when he grows up." Highly recommended.
I am not a hiker, I do not like walking or climbing and I certainly have never felt myself in need of a pilgrimage. Oh and I really don't enjoy blisters on my feet. Then, how did I finish this book? Almost in one sitting! I was fascinated with the author's stoicism and self discipline as he set out to walk the 88 temple Shikoku Henro pilgrimage. In the steps of the Buddhist monk Kūkai, this is the Japanese equivalent of the Camino de Santiago. I thoroughly enjoyed the author's description of the temples visited, the paths trodden and the characters met. The full spectrum of human nature is encompassed in the 750 miles walked; from kind, generous locals to shyster pilgrims, tattooed gang members and crazed yakitori bar customers.
Having lived in Tokyo around the same period this book was set was always going to be a trip down memory lane for me and I found it an authentic read. The author has a natural flair for travel writing and brings Japan out of the pages and into your imagination, offering an inspirational journey at a time when we all wish we could travel but the world says otherwise! Looking forward to more works by this author.
I LOVE the book. It it’s about walking, Japanese culture and LIFE. It’s tales place on the Shikoku 88, a 1000 years old pilgrim trail, 1200 km Round the Japanese island Shikoku. You should read if you’re interested in the Shikoku 88, kors of good tips and loaded with humor. Read it if you’re interested in walking and want to know more about how a Long walk can infuence your life.
I always enjoy reading a book about a pilgrim's personal experience walking a pilgrimage trail. I walked the Camino de Santiago in 2018, as the author did, and also I walked part of the Via Francigena in Italy in 2023. Todd Wassel, besides previously walking the Camino, also had walked the Shikoku 88-temple route 7 years before he completed it again in 2005, the time period of this book. Todd was trying to figure out what to do with his life, and walking gave him plenty of time to reflect on his choices and what was working and not working. He met interesting characters along the way, and was enlightened by some, amused by some, and annoyed by some. He chastised himself for not being more caring to a particular annoying pilgrim, Nobu, but to be honest, I would have found myself also extremely annoyed by him (and I would have tried to ditch him asap!). You always find out things about yourself on a pilgrimage: the good, the bad and the ugly. All of us have all of those characteristics.
Anyway, I'm going to Japan in a couple of weeks, and though I originally wanted to walk some portion of the Shikoku pilgrimage trail, I have decided it would be too strenuous for me (I was barely able to walk the 330 mile portion from Lucca to Rome on the Via Francigena). But as I want to get a taste of it, I do plan to walk the first 10 temples with my husband over 2 days.
Da jeg syklet fra Leon til Santiago de Compostella så jeg en klistrelapp med navnet 88 temple walk. Det gjorde meg nysgjerrig, og var grunnen til at jeg kjøpte Kindleutgaven av boka til Todd Wassel. Veldig inspirerende. Må komme meg til Shikoku, Japan en gang.
I always enjoy reading books written by foreigners on Japan, as they show me different viewpoints. I started reading the book with such intention in mind, but as I turned over the pages, I noticed that this book is not only about Japan from a foreigner's perspective, but actually a book on finding inner self through the experiences the author had had during his pilgrimage ("ohenro") in Shikoku. The book also illustrates rural Japan beautifully, that it reminds me of hot summer days in Japan, the buzz of cicadas, sunlight filtering through the trees, and occasional tough walks to temples and shrines.
I would highly recommend this book for anyone who loves traveling, who wanders around the world to see with your own eyes what is out there, and get inspirations from the experiences. The book shares with us the author's valuable path he had had in rural Japan, which is not easy for many of us to pursue by ourselves, owing to time constraint, health condition, language and cultural barriers, mental energy, etc.
I would also recommend this book to Japanese who are curious to find out what kind of experiences await foreigners that visit Japan, though I am not capable of proof reading nor am I familiar with 88 Buddhist temples myself.
I am sorry for several of the experiences the author had had in Japan, especially the harassment at the yakitori (chicken brochette) stall, and encountering outlaws that turned the author out of a public bath. I trust that the author and the readers are big-hearted to reckon that there are many types of people in Japan, as in any society, and those experiences are something that are not taken light of even in Japan.
I am a Japanese, and I am also a friend of Todd, so you might think that my review may be generous or slanted, but I am confident that I would have given the same review even if it were by someone that I do not know.
Todd's writing is descriptive, insightful and enjoyable for anyone inspired by journeys of the spirit and soul. The premise of the book is the author decides to go back to japan to hike a pilgrimage trail on the island of Shikoku. He had traversed this trail of jagged peaks, coastal fishing villages, small cities and farming hamlets back in 1998. And now 10 years later, he had scrapped together some money to walk the pilgrimage trail again. He states, "It was the only place I had found a sense of purpose in life and it was my last ditch effort to figure myself out."
The book describes his highs and lows (sometimes literally) on the path and the people he meets. He has many reflections on his journey and some of the passages that hit a chord with me were:
"I realized that my search for what I wanted to do for the rest of my life had missed the point completely. The answer had been staring me in the face the whole time. I t was simple, and yet I hadn't been able to see it. I was already the person I wanted to be.
This was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. This was already who I was. I wanted to have the freedom to walk a pilgrimage if I wished. I wanted the choice to pick up and move to another country when I wished. Learning new things, meeting new people, and make a difference in the world by developing new skills - those things were what made me happy."
My husband and I traveled to Japan in 2018 and hiked not this trail, but other trails (Nakasendo Way, and the Kumono Kodo) and I could relate to the story Todd was detailing in his book. Japan is a magical place and we eagerly wait to be able to return to Japan again.
I've always dreamed of visiting Japan, but as time goes on it seems to be less and less likely - and doing a pilgrimage seems almost impossible. This book is a beautiful, well-written, addictive story about a pilgrimage through Japan, visiting 88 + temples and collecting both adventures and life experiences along the way. Mr. Wassel weaves a magical picture of the journey, from the blisters on his feet to the dangers of traveling alone to the thoughtful and pensive moments spent not only at the temples along the way, but at the various rest stops. I wasn't able to put this book down, feeling like I was traveling along the same path and unwilling to pause in sharing in the adventure. The only thing I believe the book could have used is more photographs of the various temples, something I'll be looking up on my own to complete the beautiful images in my mind. This appears to be the first in a series, and I can't wait for the next book - excellent writing and an eye for description makes this a must-have for anyone looking for a virtual pilgrimage or just a darned fine read!
Strumbling across Todd's memoir came about in perfect timing for me - having just submitted an application for a program involving living in Japan for at least a year as an assistant language teacher - here I was, being presented with a book written by a man having commenced his time living in Japan doing the exact same thing. Little did I realise how much I would not only resonate with the contents of Walking in Circles: Finding Happiness in Lost Japan, but with the author's personality and existential reflections. Much like the often accounted experiences of pilgrims, this sense of connectedness between self and anything other, as if all has divinely aligned as to specifically synchronise with your own personal story while still functioning holistically as a part of reality, is how I feel with this book.
I have entertained the idea of doing a pilgrimage before, El Camino de Santiago actually, and so I was already quite resonant with the context of Todd's writings coming into this. The stories, while captivating, were also very much authentic and laced throughout with the essence of the intention that fueled the journey in the first place - that was, self discovery and realisation of life purpose. Having had incredible travel experiences, albeit perhaps not to this extent, that only could have happened on some solo adventure someplace far, far away from home, I found myself empathising a lot with not only the author, but the characters introduced throughout and the overall flow of how it all unfolded. To add to this, being at a similar stage in life, the realisations and growth-inducing introspections reflected upon in the book were fittingly mutual.
Much like Wassel, I have come to realise profound sentiments with the power to completely recontextualise one's life and this is something I see happening as I venture to Japan; much like in his case, I am being intuitively drawn to the Land of the Rising Sun and this book has only amplified my motivation to immerse myself wholeheartedly. This is especially true in regards to the Japanese language. Todd's fluency is honestly inspiring and I found myself highlighting countless little phrases and translations littered between these recounts. It really does go to show, especially in a country like Japan, that your linguistic capacity can truly take your experiences to a whole new wavelength.
As I can imagine Todd having experienced (to an indefinitely larger degree), I'm finding it practically impossible to take all of the positive experiences of my journey reading through Walking in Circles and sum them up here; simply put, this was exactly what I needed to read. Much like Kukai teaching pilgrims in the exact timing they need to learn very particular lessons, I can safely say that this was inspiring, motivating, entertaining and all in all a wonderful read.
A fun, informative, captivating, inspirational, and thought-provoking road trip book!
Th author describes with humour and humility his adventurous 750-mile walking pilgrimage around the Shikoku island in Japan, a real story. The book will fill you with emotions, you are really traveling through the author’s eyes (and words). You feel his painful blisters, you feel the wind when he rides down the hills on his bike for a few days, you see all the beautiful temples he describes like if you were there, you feel his shame and pain at the Yakitori stall, and you feel sorry for the people who smell the author when he can’t take a shower :-). As the adventure unfolds, you become Todd and can’t stop reading to find out what next will happen to you.
The book is filled with interesting (and often funny) information and facts about Japan, which you discover little by little as the author (re-)discovers the temples and meets people on the way.
Apart from this fun, adventure, and informative aspects, which will surely bring you back memories of your own travels, the main purpose of the book is actually a more philosophical one. As you become Todd, at the same time he is trying to seek enlightenment, reflecting about his life to answer who he is and wants to be in the future, the book will make you question yourself about your own life and the way you interact with people in normal life and when traveling...
Like Todd did not want his pilgrimage to end after the 88-temple, I did not want this book to end. I reluctantly turn and read the last page of acknowledgments with a tear in my eyes.
I admit to being a Japanophile and the tiny island of Shikoku has been on my bucket list for a while. I also love long distance walks so it was with great anticipation that I picked up Walking in Circles. Todd Wassel did not disappoint. I was treated to beautiful descriptions of the rugged island scenery and its wonderfully diverse inhabitants, both rural and city dwellers, as Todd made his way around the 750 mile, 88 temple henro michi or pilgrim’s path. But this book is more than just a travel guide for future henro. For Todd it was a journey to find himself and his purpose in life. From first arriving in Japan as a 21 year old to moving back to the U.S and feeling somehow disconnected from all that was expected of him to returning ‘once more’ to Shikoku we follow Todd’s spiritual journey to enlightenment along with his physical one. I felt every agonising step of this walk from the very first lanced blister to the final completing of the circle after 31 days and Todd’s report to the resting place of Kukai. Todd found his answers on Shikoku even if they were not the ones he expected and we find them with him, and maybe some for ourselves too. I guess enlightenment when shared can be powerful stuff. Thank you Todd for ‘sharing of yourself’ and of your journey.
If you're not familiar with nor interested in Japan, I wouldn't recommend this. If you are, it is enjoyable.
The fatal flaw in the book is Todd telling us how his 750 mile walk taught him to ignore society's expectations and his friends'/family's expectations, but he follows a well-defined path that others have followed for centuries AND he makes sure to get his scroll stamped at every temple so that he has some physical proof that he actually did it.
If he is so enlightened that he doesn't need to listen to expectations then why does he need proof of this? The whole thing is very strange.
Otherwise, I enjoyed it. I'm not sure everyone would. I have spent time in Japan, used to speak "strange vocabulary, kindergarten-level Japanese, according to a Japanese friend. It looks like I will spend 20 days in & around Kyoto this summer. I plan to emulate Todd's 1200 foot hikes up a mountain to visit a temple. Maybe I'll do it 2x to 2 different temples. But, the very idea of walking 750 miles, including many hikes up 1200 foot hills, on the same path countless other people have taken is something a conformist would do. At least Todd didn't become a hikikomori to prove he is different.
I liked this book well enough but it did not appeal to me as much as I thought it would. For some reason, I though I would learn more about the island of Shikoku and what life is like there now but the book is more personal than that. It tells the story of how, when he was in his late 20's, Todd Wassel walked around the island on foot (mostly) to visit 88 Buddhist temples that are part of a well-known and time-honored pilgrimage. We learn about the temples and the background of the pilgrimage while Mr. Wassel learns more about himself and how he wants to spend the rest of his life. In addition, we meet a number of interesting and eccentric people who Mr. Wassel encountered along the way, including other pilgrims (called "henro's") and islanders who offered assistance and shelter to the weary and often footsore traveler. I think this book might be more appealing to a younger reader whereas I am 66 and, in all honesty, probably less interested in a journey taken by a young man who's trying to figure his life out.
An inspirational and insightful pilgrimage, beautifully brought to life. 88 temples and 750 miles in just thirty days – there lies the path to madness! Except the author comes across as extremely sane as he journeys as a ‘henro’ pilgrim along the Shikoku trail. Wearing the distinctive white clothing, clutching a staff and scroll, and struggling to find a place to sleep each night along the route, this is a fascinating insight into a gruelling journey. Todd’s descriptions of the temples, the local people, and the other pilgrims he encounters are beautifully illustrated. The author has a wonderful way of describing events and characters, and you can almost feel the pain of his sore, blistered feet as he walks. The smallest details are included along the route, and Todd’s inner musings help to accentuate his story and turn it into a joy to read. His knowledge of Japan and the local customs and ways mean that this is more than just another travel memoir. An inspirational read.
After spending several years teaching English in Japan, Todd Wassel thought he'd find his true purpose by returning to the USA to enter grad school, but shortly thereafter he found himself in Japan once again. Walking the pilgrim trail around the Japanese island of Shikoku, Todd endures the heat and humidity of a Japanese summer to visit the 88 temples along the ancient Shikoku Henro. Along the way, he encounters a variety of people, from simple pilgrims to intimidating gangsters.
This book captured me in its descriptions of the natural setting as well as with Wassel's thoughtful interpretation of Japanese attitudes about a variety of issues, including whether Americans can speak their language and enjoy their food! The trail he followed is one many Westerners, including myself, are unaware of, and so being introduced to another sacred walk by someone who's made it was especially engaging.
This was a fascinating read. It tells of Todd Wassel’s month-long pilgrimage around the Japanese island of Shikoku in 2005, seven years after he had first walked the route aged 21. He returns to the 1200-year-old Henro pilgrimage in search of answers. During his quest he aims to visit the 88 designated temples, and others not included in the official count. Quite a challenge in such a brief space of time!
Well-written and thought-provoking, this book includes wonderful descriptions of the scenery and the challenges he faces locating a place to sleep each night. It also provides great characterisations of the intriguing characters he meets along the way. These include disturbing discoveries about the Japanese people and what lies beneath their normal conservative exterior.
Does Todd unearth the answers he is looking for? Read the book to find out, but his conclusions are not what he expected at the outset.
I heard Todd interviewed on ABC Melbourne. He and the book sounded very interesting, so I ordered it and read it. I have am fascinated with Japan, but only been a few times.
Walking In Circles: Finding Happiness in Lost Japan is a page turner, with lots of interesting facts about Japanese culture and history. Along his 750 mile, 88 Temple trek around Shikoku Todd Wassel ran into some very quirky people and situations. The pilgrimage around Shikoku sounds wonderful and something to consider for sure, but by bike for me.
The day I started the book, I sat down to read a few pages having just finished another book. Before I knew it, I was two chapters in. There are lots of convenient sections, so you can pick it up for a quick read or as I found, one more section.
Walking In Circles is actually a self-help book. It is written with humour, irony (a rare talent for Americans), and great energy. I have given my copy to my son to read and I hope he finds it as helpful as I did.
With tears in my eyes, I just finished "Walking in Circles" by Todd Wassel. I read it in about three days mesmerized by his country descriptions, the interesting characters that he met along the way, his physical struggles as well as mental awareness and the truth in his search for who he is. The Japanese culture is one that I do not know, but I have a better understanding of it after reading this thought provoking book. As I continue my search, I will remind myself, as Todd did, that "We can only be where we are." I, too, will enjoy where I am. If you love to hike, read this. If you like self discovery, read this. If you like to learn about Japanese culture, read this.
This is a lovely, insightful, and sensitive telling of the author's second pilgrimage along the path of the Japanese master Kobo-Daishi (Kukai) c. 2010. If you have found the stories of pilgrims on the Camino del Santiago provokie thought and spritual growth, you will find this Japanese pilgrimage equally inspiring. If you don't know this literature, but like travelogues, this is one to add to your mental library, along with its lesson, "You can only be where you are." One of life's most difficult truths to embrace.
Certainly a very relatable story, both in terms of the personal journey () and in the encounters with Japanese, even if they heavily favor the eccentric. (The only issue here is that this then becomes a definition of "weird Japanese", whereas you can find people like this in any country, in my experience.) I sometime found I had a hard time placing events in time and space: in the beginning his first and second pilgrimages overlap oddly, for example.
Wordy book , has good discription of walk and people met. , people are different , not everyone will or financially can head out on a walk for months or week's. Besides if everyone were like the author the paths would be crowded with seekers. Except who you are and what you think is important. There are people in there eighties who still don't know what there true calling is. (And they don't care)
I really enjoy books that take the reader on a personal experience with the world. I have been to Japan though I don't speak the language. I've never taken any kind of pilgrimage like the author. However, the book helped me understand some things about the Japanese culture that I have always found a bit puzzling. The insights the author makes about his own thinking are good ones. The description of the journey makes me want to do the pilgrimage as well though I know I never will.
I loved and enjoyed this book. A candid and intimate memoir and non-preachy spirituality travelogue and self discovery journal. The author’s sense of humor and humility and understanding of Japanese culture make reading this book a joy. The last sentence of Chapter 11 is one the most beautiful and succinctly evocative sentences I have read. I also learned to be extra careful selecting a yakitori restaurant in Japan.
As I read this book, I was constantly reminded of my short time in Japan many years ago, the culture, the people, the environment and the many complexities of life in Japan. The journey, hardships, joys, people, nature and insights gave me a joyful read and a sense of being a part of something bigger than myself. Plus during this time of Covid no travel, I got away to experience a different country. Great read!
This was a light, witty read. Wassel has a good handle on Japanese culture and it was enjoyable reading about the pilgrimage experience. The only thing that he got wrong--that I noticed--was the "no tattoo" rule in the sento. The public baths receive some funding from the government, and therefore cannot exclude any one from entry. Only the privately run spa-like baths (kenko lando, for example) can refuse entry to people with tattoos.
Truly a very deep book, however it was a bit dense as well. I feel like every travel book I have read up till this point has built up to this book. Think of it as the wound-up person's Walk in the Woods. The author certainly is no Bill Bryson, but I really resonated with the book's theme of discovering oneself. Truly, by not weebing out over Japanese cultural paraphernalia, the author gives a probing window into a people, nation, and culture.
I gave this five stars not because it is a great book or great writing but because it gave me exactly what I wanted - a glimpse of the experience of being a pilgrim in Japan. In fact, the author’s thoughtful reflections on the questions of identity and life meaning that motivated his pilgrimage were a rich added extra. Thank you for this book - well written, thoughtful and interesting descriptions.