Exciting, fun, illuminating and also sadly nostalgic. I'll start with the nostalgia. "Where have these times gone to?" was the question in my mind as I read this fascinating book about how a big part of the world used to be. This book describes the adventures of a young man traveling in Southern Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East in the (I'm guessing, based on the healthy descriptions of the lands he passed through) mid-late 1950s. The many things he describes: the types of people, the optimism of their governments, the prosperity of their lands is now long gone, the cities in rubble, the mind gone insane with hating. It's chilling to read the chapter on his visit to Beruit: it was once (for a short time, as there had also been much trouble before) a peaceful, prosperous, beautiful city living in a time of great hope. Contrast it with the Beruit we know now, even before the 2020 port explosion, and you will be amazed. The lesson? Thus goes the world. Everything changes. Even us.
Likewise, his descriptions of the people he met, now seem like shining relics of a better time, fading fast, like the golden lining of a cloud at sunset: the relatively innocent and merry pirates and cigarette smugglers doing the Morocco/Spain run; the incredible nobility and generosity of the Saudi King at the time (I know, it shocks me too, to write these words, so much has changed with that ruling house in a few generations), the sweetness, trust, and good will of the general populations, the unusual, mysterious, and fascinating characters that seemed lurking everywhere--at least around this author, lol. All these types seem long gone. What we are left with... well, look at a typical Western world individual: obese or heading fast in that direction due to an obsession with rich food, focused selfishly on their own pleasure at all costs, easily bored, needing constant entertainment, constant ego strokes online, unwilling to work or put effort into anything, but demanding she or he be given all sorts of rights and privileges, addicted to their phones/devices and the false realities these provide while icy cold to people in person, unable and entirely unwilling to sacrifice for a greater good (such as wearing a light cloth over one's face to prevent oneself from spreading or contracting a terrible disease), childish and demanding in the extreme despite 20, 30, 4o or more years of living... I look at the people around me and at the people described in this book and wonder where and how we went wrong. Sometimes I think it's just the times: something larger than humanity that is very hard for most to fight against or stave off is shaping us into grotesquely ugly forms.
That isn't all that's in this book. The writer, Idries Shah, went out of his way to meet and talk to unusual people. While this travel tale was one result of his journey, I suspect it was a byproduct of an assignment he was given, based on the material he produced later in his life. I think this book was the result of a task and possibly the primary point of the journey was elsewhere... or lightly glossed over. But in the meantime, he certainly saw some interesting things and had great adventures. His strong, semi-suicidal intent to snap shots of "Things That Are Not Supposed To Be Photographed" reminded me a little of a man trying to lead a camel up a vertical wall. ;-)
But whatever reasons this journey had, the result is a fascinating read about places, people, and times that are now lost to modern humanity and that will probably never return. One thing, however, is still there. Shah shows us that the middle east is not composed one uniform stereotypical type, but that people in the Mideast region vary immensely from each other, depending on the varying lands and cultures they grew up with. The minority in the middle east who make the headlines due to their extreme, vicious behavior or their mad acts of power, are not typical. There is no typical. In the United States, we run across this, too. Travelers from abroad think there is only one kind of American, and do not grasp the concept of slow, hospitable, stubborn Southerners; rushing, fast-paced, alert Northeasterners; relaxed, druggy, hippie, nature-loving Westerners, solid, down-to-earth Midwesterners, and many other types. And each of these regional personality types comes in all skin colors. To outsiders, however, we're all the same stereotype: greedy, stupid, unobservant, crass Americans. And yes, we're mostly that, on the surface at least, but there's sometimes a little bit more under this scribbled crayoned depiction. ;-)
Shah's book goes a long way toward showing that the territories of the Middle East are the same way, incapable of being stereotyped with one broad, sloppy pseudo-psychological brush, while it entertains us with this unusual author's wild adventures. And oh yes, they are wild...hut you don't have to take my word for it. Other reviewers have handled that subject quite well. I just appreciated learning about things I'll probably never encounter in real life, but that give me a glimpse of just how complex and fascinating this world and the people who inhabit it are. Some of the things described riveted me. I loved the idea of the temples and houses built carved into the sides of red cliffs in Northern Africa, accessible only through a narrow passage though the mountains. I would love to live in a place like that! I also got a bit obsessed with the slab of Jasper, formerly the cover of Solomon's tomb, that they say had 19 nails driven into it by Mohammed. When they are all gone, the end of the world will come. At the time Shah wrote about seeing this, there were three nails left. I wonder how many there are now? Of course, as Shah and other articles about this object hint at, pranksters could be pulling them out.
There are so many different lands and peoples discussed in this book. I'll describe one more. The contentment of Greek peasant communities is discussed at some length when Shah describes a Greek wedding in the country. When he wrote this, there were still lots of peasant communities without any of the devices and trappings and attitudes of the modern world, no media to hypnotize them, who were extremely, one could say extraordinarily, happy with their peaceful, isolated lives. I don't know if such people exist anywhere in the world these days, which is another sad thing. Multiple communities of deeply happy or at least very content people have disappeared to be replaced with one of several modern types: sullen, narcissistic and arrogant, entitled, spoiled, dissatisfied with everything, constantly wanting more, gluttonous for food, craving ego-stroking the way some crave heroin, restlessly seeking out the next new thing, new trend, new meme to save him- or herself from terrifying boredom. Or the raving military political fanatic screaming for justice as he or she bloodies the land but secretly only in it for the hot rush extreme cruelty provides. Or the unfortunate one who is completely impoverished, helpless, out of one's wits with starvation, disease-ridden, lowest in society, constantly butchered by barbaric soldiers or unofficial militia, and spat upon by "better people, those with nothing and no hope.
This author went on to write many other books, books about psychological and philosophical techniques that help one cope better with the world. I am deeply indebted to those works, but I also think this often-neglected true-life adventure tale deserves a careful read for the lessons it teaches about how people once were and how quickly things can change.