Karl Lagerfeld: Ein Deutscher in Paris

by Alfons Kaiser

"ES FÄNGT MIT MIR AN, UND ES HÖRT MIT MIR AUF."

Karl Lagerfeld stilisierte sich selbst zum lebenden Logo und zu einem Mythos der Modewelt. F.A.Z.-Redakteur Alfons Kaiser, der Lagerfeld seit langem kannte, stellt in dieser Biographie anhand vieler bislang unbekannter Quellen den charismatischen Modeschöpfer vor. Und er erklärt die vielen Rollen seines den jugendlichen Außenseiter im norddeutschen Flachland, das weltgewandte Genie in Paris, den unermüdlichen Zeichner, begeisterten Fotografen, leidenschaftlichen Büchersammler und den preußisch disziplinierten Workaholic.

Was steckt hinter dieser überlebensgroßen Figur, die trotz aller Kommunikationslust die eigene Lebensgeschichte geheim hielt? Alfons Kaiser kommt in dieser Biographie dem Menschen Lagerfeld dem frühreifen Jungen, der lieber auf dem Dachboden zeichnete, als mit Altersgenossen zu spielen; dem Sohn, der mit seinen Eltern stritt, aber nie von ihnen loskam; dem Konkurrenten von Yves Saint Laurent, den er am Ende überstrahlte; dem Bruder, Onkel, Freund - und schließlich dem Partner von Jacques de Bascher, der großen Liebe seines Lebens.

Genres: Fashion, Nonfiction, Biography, Biography Memoir

383 pages, Kindle Edition

Published September 17, 2020

Reviews

[Bücherangelegenheiten · Rating 5 out of 5]

Karl Lagergeld zählte unumstritten zu einem der wichtigsten Modedesigner der letzten Jahrzehnte. Lagerfeld hatte einen Mythos um seine Person aufgebaut, jeder dachte ihn zu kennen, aber eigentlich wusste niemand etwas über ihn. Wer war Lagerfeld wirklich? Dieser Frage geht der F.A.Z.-Journalist Alfons Kaiser, der ein ausgesprochen guter Kenner Lagerfelds ist, auf den Grund.

Für sein Buch „Karl Lagerfeld: Ein Deutscher in Paris“ sprach Kaiser mit Bekannten und Verwandten, fuhr durch ganz Deutschland und flog um die Welt, um Orte zu besuchen, die für Lagerfeld von Bedeutung gewesen sind. Dabei herausgekommen ist eine wahnsinnig gut recherchierte Biografie. Natürlich wurden über Lagerfeld schon etliche Biografien geschrieben, doch was an dieser so außergewöhnlich ist, ist der Schwerpunkt, der hier gesetzt wird. In anderen Texten ist immer Paris der Mittelpunkt, bei Kaiser ist es aber mehr die Kindheit und das Deutschsein Lagerfelds.

Gerade diese Schwerpunktsetzung macht das Buch so besonders. Die Biografie schildert auf nüchterne, sachliche und korrekte Weise das Leben Lagerfelds, dabei driftet Kaiser an keinem Moment in einen verehrenden Ton ab und berichtet so auch über die Schattenseiten des Modekönigs. Im Gesamtbild stellt das Buch die faszinierende Geschichte eines Deutschen dar, der die Modewelt von sich überzeugen kann und seiner Heimat doch irgendwie treu geblieben ist. „Ein Deutscher in Paris“ ist aber nicht nur ein interessantes Buch für Fashionistas oder Lagerfeld-Fans. Gerade für Kritiker:innen Lagerfelds ist dieses Buch ein must-read, denn sie würden Lagerfeld von einer anderen Seite kennenlernen und so feststellen, dass ihre Kritik vielleicht nicht immer gerechtfertigt ist.

Das einzig Negative, dass ich an dem Buch finden kann ist, dass es zum Ende hin ein bisschen zu schnell wird. Wir springen für meinen Geschmack zu schnell durch die Jahre, aber ein ganzes Leben auf knapp 400 Seiten festzuhalten ist natürlich auch schwer. Meine Kritik ist also, dass mir das Buch nicht lang genug ist.

Eine klare Leseempfehlung!
Note: 2

[Cantona · Rating 5 out of 5]

Sehr tolle, gut zu lesende, Biographie. Absolut lohnenswert!

[Theresa · Rating 4 out of 5]

Hmmm... I'm not sure why I have so many thoughts about this, but but here I go. Alfons Kaiser's biography left me pondering: What is the legacy of a fashion designer? There are far greater questions to ponder in this world, after finishing the book I couldn't help but mull over that question. At it's core commercial fashion is ephemeral. It's dictated by seasons and types of collections, each one replacing the last on an endless conveyer belt. What does that mean for a designer and the legacy they leave behind? I'm not sure.

Kaiser's research on Lagerfeld was impeccable and did some impressive digging, particularly with regards to Lagerfeld's early life and childhood. Which, of course, Lagerfeld spent his entire life obfuscating. Also, Kaiser never hesitated to debunk Lagerfeld's many lies and "flourishes" about his life and didn't shy away from criticizing his subject. I often found myself laughing as these lies were debunked. The book itself was quite funny at times, along with a surprising amount of pathos. The "Enemies" chapter sealed the deal for me. I could not stop laughing at Lagerfeld and, his eternal enemy, Pierre Bergé exchanging barbs and I had to put the book down to laugh when Lagerfeld referred to Bergé as a "poison dwarf." I found myself caught off-guard by the tenderness of some chapters, in particular Lagerfeld's early days in Paris and friendship with Victoire Doutreleau, Anne-Marie Muñoz, and Yves Saint Laurent, years before their rival cliques were set in stone. The wildness of the 1970s once Antonio Lopez, Juan Ramos, Warhol, etc. make appearances is always amusing to read about. Karl and Jacques de Bascher's relationship remains equally intriguing and poignant.

According to Lagerfeld, he once visited a fortune teller with Bergé and Saint Laurent. The fortune teller told Saint Laurent that "It's all good now but it will end quite quickly." She told Lagerfeld that "It will begin for you when it ends for the others." Thus, the legend of Karl Lagerfeld begins. Was this prophetic? Like all fortunes, it's vague enough. It must have been something Lagerfeld kept in mind as he saw Saint Laurent's remarkable rise to success as while he himself was plugging away at Balmain, Patou, freelancing, Fendi, Chloé, and eventually Chanel in 1983? It seems to be the case, as he told this anecdote often after he was appointed to Chanel and Saint Laurent's decline. When I wonder what Lagerfeld's legacy will be, I wonder how this fortune plays out. He famously detested Bergé's legacy cementing projects for Yves Saint Laurent. I can't imagine there will be a Lagerfeld museum. However, that seems to suit him as someone who seemed to only be focused on on the present. It's going to be curious to see what the Wertheimers decide to do with Chanel and what impact that will have. Again, these are quite frivolous thoughts to have with our current state of affairs, but I find them interesting to ponder.

[Luca · Rating 5 out of 5]

Lagerfeld fasziniert, doch verfällt der Autor nicht in Heldenverehrung. Er zeigt deutlich sonderliche Eigenschaften wie manche Fehler oder persönliche Schwächen auf. Aber auch die Verneigung vor Lagerfelds Werk kommt nicht zu kurz. Der Mensch, der bis zur Perfektion an der Entmenschlichung und damit der Vermarktung seiner öffentlichen Person arbeitete, wird hier wahrhaftig und lebendig.

[Ethan · Rating 4 out of 5]

The late fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld was nothing if not a recognizable persona. His monochromatic look, tailored suit, tinted glasses, and powdered ponytail helped him to become a kind of living logo for his brand. With a quick sketch, he was able to capture the look of the moment, perfectly encapsulating everything about his vision with immaculate precision. But who was Karl Lagerfeld? Who is the man behind the acclaimed fashion houses? The answer to that question may not be as easy to come by. Beyond the public facade of high-brow elegance and timely trends lies a man who valued his personal life and rarely revealed anything about himself that didn't further his brand. Even his date of birth was clouded by his own noncommittal origin story. In Karl Lagerfeld: A Life in Fashion, author Alfons Kaiser attempts to unveil the man behind some of fashion's most iconic moments.

The earliest sections of the book reveal Kaiser's deep research as he debunks many of the tall tales that Lagerfeld told about his early years. From the year of his birth (yes, he was older than he claimed to be), to the way he interacted with his family and schoolmates, it is clear that Lagerfeld embellished the story of his life to fit the narrative that he conjured for himself and his image as a designer. The reality is this. Karl was born to a family that made a name for itself in the evaporated milk business in Germany during the brink of the second world war. He wasn't particularly close with either of his parents, and he was always a bit different than the other boys his own age. It is hard to imagine Karl Lagerfeld as anything but the icon that he became. Even so, he was the last of his friend group, including Yves Saint-Laurent, to find success. Once he did find it, though, he would enjoy a rich career in the industry that spanned over half a century.

Professional accolades, friendships, and feuds scatter the pages of Kaiser's detailed biography. The sheer scope of Lagerfeld's career is placed on full display in the work, which is quite astounding considering the industry he worked in. Fashion has always been something of the moment. Styles come in and out with a regularity that can often leave designers behind. Lagerfeld's staying power and ceaseless quest for relevancy is a remarkable feat. I was struck by how different Lagerfeld's public persona was from the man he was in his private life. He fiercely guarded his privacy, only confiding in his close friends, confidants, and his romantic partner of many years. Karl seemed to have been a loyal friend who went out of his way to take care of those around him. I have a mixed response, then to this work as a whole. It isn't that the reporting on Lagerfeld's life is bad. In fact, the writing is well researched and highly empathetic. Still, I can't help but feel that parts of the work pry more into Lagerfeld's life than he would ever have wanted to be revealed. Nevertheless, the brilliance of Lagerfeld's work and the genius of the man he was is carefully portrayed in this book.

[Wild Waters · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a well-researched book about Karl Lagerfeld who was extremely private with his private life, extremely open and public with his work in fashion for several luxury labels over decades at the same time, and managed to create an icon out of himself. It was great to get an understanding of where he actually came from and how he developed as the person he wanted to present to us. There could have been more about the fashion shows and designs, because he was involved in everything and always presented a whole vision, but I understand that many other publications already focus on that aspect from a fashion perspective.
The only critique I have lies in the tone of this book, which I read in the German original and so might not be an issue in the English translation as "A life in fashion". The author, although he even pointed it out as a typical treatment of German people towards Lagerfeld, sounded very moralising throughout the book himself. Many comments were maybe meant in an ironic way, which would fit Lagerfeld's own way of speaking, but were delivered rather bitter, judgemental and looking down from a superior ethical perspective, that is so often happening with journalists from huge, "critically acclaimed" news papers writing on whichever topic they deem worthy of their time. I am sure this was not really intended but the writing style left a sour aftertaste, especially towards the end of Lagerfeld's life and thus the latter part of the book. Maybe the editor of the text should have thought about choices of words and attitudes a bit more.

[SternenstaubHH · Rating 5 out of 5]

Karl Lagerfeld gilt auch heute noch als der perfekte Modedesigner. Der Hamburger, den es früh nach Paris zog und der dort eine unvergleichliche Karriere startete, war ein echter Workaholic. Mich hat vor allem interessiert wer Karl Lagerfeld wirklich war. Der vor einem Jahr verstorbene Designer war bekannt für seine provokanten mutigen Designs, für seine Karlismen und Karlikaturen. Er war der kreative Kopf von Chanel und betreute neben der Pariser Nobelmarke noch Fendi und seine eigene Marke Karl Lagerfeld. Das hat mich schon immer sehr beeindruckt. Das Buch von Alfons Kaiser ist in mehrere Kapitel unterteilt. So lernt man zuerst einiges über die Familie seines Vaters und seiner Mutter kennen. Anschließend folgen die Jahre 1933 bis 1951 in der der Leser einiges über Karls Kindheit und Schulzeit erfahren kann. Die Jahre 1952 bis 1982 befassen sich mit Karls Anfängen in Paris. 1983 und 1999 behandeln, wie ich es nennen würde, Karls goldene Zeit. Seine Erfolge bei Chanel, sein formvollendeter Umgang mit Models und Journalisten - dies alles macht Karl Lagerfeld zu einem ganz besonderen Designer. 2000 bis 2019 beschäftigen sich u.a. mit seiner Diät, der H&M-Kollaboration und der inzwischen ebenfalls sehr bekannten Katze Choupette. Ich habe die Lektüre dieser Biografie sehr genossen und Alfons Kaiser hat mir viele Einblicke in das Leben des großen Designers ermöglicht. So wusste ich nicht was für spiritueller Mensch und begeisterter Büchersammler Karl Lagerfeld war. Wie Alfons Kaiser es so treffend zusammenfasst: "Karl Lagerfeld war geistreich, genial und großzügig, zuweilen war er aber auch dünnhäutig, reizbar und nachtragend" (Seite 304). Karl Lagerfeld hatte ein turbulentes und aufregendes Leben, das mit seinen Requisiten eher an die Welt von gestern erinnert. Vielleicht liegt auch gerade hier der Zauber und die Faszination für seine Designs. Ob man ihn mochte oder nicht, ich ziehe meinen Hut vor einem der größten Modeschöpfer der Welt.

[Torsten Wieland]

Ich habe einen Softspot für exaltierte Typen, wenn die Art mit Kunst einher geht. Karl Lagerfeld hat mich immer interessiert. Diese Biografie war das passende Futter für dieses Interesse.

Karl Lagerfeld war schon ein sehr besonderer Typ. Eine Art Urkünstler, dessen Kreativität und Stilsicherheit für jede Kunstform reichte. Er log wie gedruckt, wenn es darum ging, ein Bild von sich selbst zu schaffen. Er war Ich-bezogen und zugleich großzügig, machte selbst und ließ andere glänzen. So reich wie sein Leben ist eben auch die Geschichte in dieser Biografie, die vom Zweiten Weltkrieg bis 2019 reicht. Einer Zeitspanne, in der sich Stil, Chic und Mode stetig veränderten, in der Karl stets prägte und veränderte, und in der er sich selbst letztlich wie eine Figur aus vergangener Zeit gestaltete.

Ich habe die Biografie als Hörbuch gehört. Das war nicht ideal. Sie ist nur zu Beginn strikt chronologisch aufgebaut, als es um Lagerfelds Familie, das Wirken seiner Großeltern und Eltern ging. In späteren Abschnitten, wenn es um bestimmte Themen geht, sind manche Rückblicke eingebaut. In der Hörbuch-Version, in der ein spontanes Innehalten und zurückblättern nicht möglich ist, waren die vielen Namen für mich ab und an verwirrend, zumal ich des Französischen nicht mächtig bin. Schön zu hören war sie dennoch. Eingelesen wurde das Buch von Hans-Jürgen Stockerl, dessen angenehme Stimme und Betonung mir aus dem Bayern 2 "Kalenderblatt"-Podcast gut bekannt war.

[Patrick Pilz · Rating 3 out of 5]

losely connected stories, not a great telling of a life but a presentation of a lot of facts.

[Paul Sutter]

Fashion designer and icon Karl Lagerfeld, left quite the legacy behind when he died in 2019. Author Alfons Kaiser traces his life and times, long before he entered the fashion world, then his impact on it once he began a top flight designer.
He did work for other fashion houses, before he took the big leap into his own brand, with his own signature styles. The name Lagerfeld stirs controversy for many. It began back in during World War Two, when it appeared that his mother was a follower of Adolf Hitler and his regime. It was said she was impressed by his message of restoring economic prosperity to Germany, but later when she heard about the treatment of Jews and being rounded up for concentration camps and imminent death, she no longer believed in the German leader’s visions.
Lagerfeld himself was not without his controversies for his beliefs. It was said that he was sexist and racist, plus he often had outrageous opinions about using plus-sized models. There were even comments against the #MeToo movement.
The book does not dwell on such facets of Lagerfeld’s life, rather digs deeply into his life and lifestyle. Author Kaiser has done the proverbial deep dive into his world, mentioning his family life, family ties, and as his fashion fixations emerged, sending him in the direction of being an elite designer.
Few would fail to recognize the man, thanks to his high shirt collars, dark glasses, and fingerless gloves. Some mimicked his style at fashion shows, but there truly was only one Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld was an enigma at times. His year of birth is shrouded in controversy, apparently the man older than what he said he was. That aside, there is mention on the many men in his life, though that is often shrouded in secrecy as well, the man keeping much of his private life just that, private. Even more interesting is his affection for Choupette, the cat who was part of his life in later years. He first took the cat in as a favor for a friend, and grew to love it and asked to keep it. The owner said no at first, then reconsidered. Choupette had a good life after that, Lagerfeld even opening up a bank account for the animal. At the Met Gala honoring Lagerfeld in 2023, Choupette was there in spirit.
A LIFE IN FASHION is an extensive look at the man’s life, times, designs, and more. It gives Lagerfeld a larger than life aura, from fashion runways to clothing boutiques, and his impact on the fashion world in general.

[Berit Lotta · Rating 2 out of 5]

Leider fand ich es nicht so gelungen. Der Autor betreibt vorallem in der ersten Hälfte des Buchs unfassbares Name-dropping, jegliche Nachbarn & Schulkameraden werden mit Namen genannt und bei vielen auch Geburtsjahr und Todesjahr hinzugefügt. Das war mir ehrlich etwas zu viel, vorallem da viele der genannten nicht wichtig für die Handlung sind.
Auch fand ich das Buch teilweise schlecht sortiert, obwohl es in der grobe zeitliche Abschnitte unterteilt war, wurde oft vorweggegriffen und es war dann doch nicht so richtig chronologisch erzählt. Und der letzte Teil bestand aus vielen kurzen Abschnitten die man gut hätte zusammenfassen können.
Ich persönlich finde es auch schade, dass das Kapitel Kritik nur so oberflächlich gehalten wurde, da es dort weit mehr zu berichten gibt und vieles der Kritik auch sofort abgetan wird.
Außerdem muss ich sagen, dass lagerfeld wirklich wie ein sehr sehr unsympathischer und arroganter Mensch rüberkommt

[Dash · Rating 4 out of 5]

Magnificent insight into the legend himself.
I was inspired by his wit and his grandiose impact in fashion history of the recent years!
His outlook on life were very modern and aged well ever since. He was an exceptional man and a powerhouse who wasn’t afraid to be opinionated and witty. It showed that everything that he talked about, he thought about deeply beforehand thus making everything he said very original and very quotable.
I read it when I myself moved to Paris at age 18 as did Karl, so it was a very happy coincidence and it might have led to me having a certain biased. Take it as you may.

[naja · Rating 5 out of 5]

ao ler "the chiffon trenches" do andre leon talley, ele comenta sobre essa biografia, e como ele fala muito do karl ao longo do seu livro, falei por que não dar uma conferida nela?
o karl em si nunca foi um designer que me trazia muito interesse, até curtia as coleções do começo da carreira dele mas nunca me preocupei em saber quem ele era de "verdade".
o autor fez uma puta pesquisa sobre a vida dele, e muitas informações interessantes que faz a gente até achar que conhecia o karl como pessoa. nunca imaginei que ele fosse uma pessoa tão amigável e engraçada, provavelmente por conta da estética que ele criou em volta de si. claro que ele não foi uma pessoa totalmente livre de críticas, tem coisas que eu não concordo em relação as atitudes/pensamentos dele, mas quem sou eu pra falar algo?
mesmo assim ele foi um pioneiro no mundo da moda e eh incontestável o tanto de trabalho que esse homem fez, estando em controle de tudo que ele se propunha a fazer mesmo nos ultimos anos de vida com a saúde dele.

[Merriam · Rating 2 out of 5]

Despite the interesting subject matter, this book is boring and difficult to read. It is not told in chronological order, instead separating parts of his life into different chapters, like “Photography,” “Houses,” and “Chloe.” It’s full of random anecdotes and thousands of different names it’s impossible to keep track of because no personal background is provided about them. I forced myself to finish it.

[Chiara Ferrari · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book really does a deep dive into Karl's history and jumps all over the place. I should've thought more about the title because I wanted to read Karl's personal life, his love and interests... not just the 'fashion icon'. I'm a little bit disappointed.

[Susu · Rating 5 out of 5]

Der Autor müht sich, einen Blick hinter die Kulisse Karl Lagerfeld zu werfen - beschreibt wie ein Mensch sich zur Ikone stilisiert - wie die Modewelt verrückt spielt - ein interessantes Bild eines interessanten Menschen mit Katze und vielen Büchern

[Mark Gee · Rating 4 out of 5]

At first I wasn't actually enjoying this book, but I'm glad I read it, it was enjoyable in the end.
I want to read more about Karl Lagerfeld I find him interesting.
What a life.

[lyss · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ready for the met gala

[Olga Vannucci · Rating 4 out of 5]

Constant activity, total control,
He could be biting, he could be droll.

[Felix Natusch · Rating 4 out of 5]

8,5

[Reader · Rating 5 out of 5]

Interesting book on his life depicting his charismatic personality, his passion and perfectionism towards his work, his generosity, his tenderness and so much more!

[yyyoshiii (☉_☉) ★ · Rating 4 out of 5]

"Zugleich kultivierte er die Aura des Unnahbaren, der überall dabei ist, aber nirgendwo dazugehört, der gern in Gesellschaft ist, aber zugleich über den Dingen schwebt, der zwar am Leben teilnimmt, aber es noch lieber in sein eigenes Zeichensystem überführt."

das ist der gottverdammte ✨lifestyle✨
tagsüber vampir (versunken in kunst & bücher), nachts unter leute! 😎

[Jasi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Am Anfang schwer aber das Ende hat mich noch überzeugt

[Eszter · Rating 4 out of 5]

"Ein Deutscher in Paris" ist eine sehr gut recherchierte, reflektierte Biographie über Lagerfeld. Alfons Kaiser unterteilt das Leben der Modeikone in vier Abschnitte und setzt jeweils sehr interessante und unterschiedliche Akzente, die diesen doch so mysteriösen Menschen von seinen vielen Seiten beschreiben, erklären und dem Lesenden nahe bringen.
Kaiser bleibt sachlich in der Hinsicht, er glorifiziert nichts an Lagerfeld, weder seine Persönlichkeit noch seine Errungenschaft und trotzdem, oder gerade deshalb wird die Einzigartigkeit dieses Mannes klar.

[Josephine Blümel · Rating 5 out of 5]

Einfach nur ein wunderschönes ehrliches Buch über ein großes Genie, der auch nur ein Mensch war.

Und zum Schluss verdrückt man doch eine Träne, wenn der unsterbliche Karl der Große doch sterblich ist und man sich wieder bewusst wird, dass eine große Ära der Modewelt vorbei ist.

[Danny Marcalo · Rating 3 out of 5]

solide

[Hannah · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sehr gut strukturiert, nicht zu einseitig geschrieben

[Book ✨✨✨ Worm · Rating 3 out of 5]

3,5 Sterne
Gut geschrieben, aber recht trocken und an manchen Stellen langweilig

[Giulia Ziino · Rating 4 out of 5]

mi è piaciuta ! Avrei voluto più immagini.