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Cooking for Madam: Recipes and Reminiscences from the Home of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
Marta Sgubin came to the United States in 1969 as governess to Caroline Kennedy and John F. Kennedy, Jr. She regarded the move as temporary and was secretly planning to return to Europe very quickly. Twenty-five years later, when Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis died, Marta was still with her. When she first arrived, Marta was an unusual combination of extreme sophistication and unexpected naivete not surprising, since she spent the first half of her young life in San Valentino-- population 400-- in the north of Italy and the second half in the palazzos and chateaux of various world capitals as nanny and then as companion to the daughter of a wealthy French diplomat. She had always addressed the mother of her French charge as "Madame", in the formal European way. In the new household, she called the newly married Mrs. Onassis "Madam" in the mistaken belief that that was the English version of the term. Eventually Mrs. Onassis explained its meaning in English and the slightly risque connotation, but begged Marta not to stop using it because it was "so cute".
After the children left for boarding school, Marta stayed on with the family. Her role, naturally, changed and evolved from governess to housekeeper and, finally, to friend, until she became an indispensable part of the household. She ran everything, but she shone especially as a gifted cook. Whether it was birthday parties for Caroline and John over the Thanksgiving weekend in New Jersey, a barbecue on the porch of the beach house on Martha's Vineyard, or a fast but elegant dinner on Fifth Avenue before the ballet, Marta was always there, cooking for Madam.
And now Marta has gathered nearly 100 of the family's favorite recipes and garnished them with her reminiscences in "Cooking for Madam". She offers the special green sauce she served with poached salmon and, in passing, tells the story of Chester, the pigeon she trained to come to the kitchen window in New York. Everyone can enjoy Marta's famous scrambled eggs and, as the eggs are being stirred in a double boiler, can read about how they were traditionally served at Christmas breakfast to Mrs. Onassis and her family.
The food covers the culinary spectrum from the Christmas dinner entree, Loin of Veal Stuffed with a Morel Mousse (the recipe originally called for sweetbreads, but Madam didn't care for them, so Marta created an acceptable substitute) to the Chocolate Roll Caroline always requested on her birthday. Here is Uncle Teddy's favorite lobster salad (made with fresh corn, but no celery), the mashed potatoes Jack Schlossberg was so proud of that he had Marta come and make them for his nursery school class, and the Shepherd's Pie Diana Vreeland pronounced the best she had ever eaten.
There have been millions of words written about Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, but never before by a member of her household. Marta, as she herself says, "confines herself to the kitchen and the dining room." But within those cozy boundaries Marta offers a loving tribute to the woman she knew as well as anyone-- the committed mother, the doting Grand Jackie, and the wry commentator on family life.
After the children left for boarding school, Marta stayed on with the family. Her role, naturally, changed and evolved from governess to housekeeper and, finally, to friend, until she became an indispensable part of the household. She ran everything, but she shone especially as a gifted cook. Whether it was birthday parties for Caroline and John over the Thanksgiving weekend in New Jersey, a barbecue on the porch of the beach house on Martha's Vineyard, or a fast but elegant dinner on Fifth Avenue before the ballet, Marta was always there, cooking for Madam.
And now Marta has gathered nearly 100 of the family's favorite recipes and garnished them with her reminiscences in "Cooking for Madam". She offers the special green sauce she served with poached salmon and, in passing, tells the story of Chester, the pigeon she trained to come to the kitchen window in New York. Everyone can enjoy Marta's famous scrambled eggs and, as the eggs are being stirred in a double boiler, can read about how they were traditionally served at Christmas breakfast to Mrs. Onassis and her family.
The food covers the culinary spectrum from the Christmas dinner entree, Loin of Veal Stuffed with a Morel Mousse (the recipe originally called for sweetbreads, but Madam didn't care for them, so Marta created an acceptable substitute) to the Chocolate Roll Caroline always requested on her birthday. Here is Uncle Teddy's favorite lobster salad (made with fresh corn, but no celery), the mashed potatoes Jack Schlossberg was so proud of that he had Marta come and make them for his nursery school class, and the Shepherd's Pie Diana Vreeland pronounced the best she had ever eaten.
There have been millions of words written about Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, but never before by a member of her household. Marta, as she herself says, "confines herself to the kitchen and the dining room." But within those cozy boundaries Marta offers a loving tribute to the woman she knew as well as anyone-- the committed mother, the doting Grand Jackie, and the wry commentator on family life.
224 pages, Hardcover
First published October 1, 1998
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Displaying 1 - 15 of 15 reviews
March 4, 2014
This book is a surprise - a real gem.
The French author talks about how we became the nanny for the Kennedy family (which would be interesting enough) but later expanded her role to serve as the cook also.
For many years, she accompanied Jackie all over the world, caring for the children and their friends while also serving them delicious meals in New York, on Martha's Vineyard, in Greece and anywhere else the family visited.
Her stories in this book are interwoven with some of the recipes she used over the years. Many of them are ones I am interested in trying and all of them are given in her unassuming way.
The French author talks about how we became the nanny for the Kennedy family (which would be interesting enough) but later expanded her role to serve as the cook also.
For many years, she accompanied Jackie all over the world, caring for the children and their friends while also serving them delicious meals in New York, on Martha's Vineyard, in Greece and anywhere else the family visited.
Her stories in this book are interwoven with some of the recipes she used over the years. Many of them are ones I am interested in trying and all of them are given in her unassuming way.
November 11, 2025
I am a lifelong admirer of Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis, and have probably devoured every word ever written about her.
This is the most intimate, heartfelt, and down to earth portrait of one of the world’s most famous women, and her family, that I have ever read. It is a wonderful cookbook, containing many recipes I’d like to attempt, but it is much more. The author gives us a glimpse of life with Jackie, Caroline, and John, and, in later years, their spouses and children. We learn about everyday life, holidays, traditions, and favorite pastimes and foods as if we are visiting the family in person.
I highly recommend this book. It is a very enjoyable and informative read!
This is the most intimate, heartfelt, and down to earth portrait of one of the world’s most famous women, and her family, that I have ever read. It is a wonderful cookbook, containing many recipes I’d like to attempt, but it is much more. The author gives us a glimpse of life with Jackie, Caroline, and John, and, in later years, their spouses and children. We learn about everyday life, holidays, traditions, and favorite pastimes and foods as if we are visiting the family in person.
I highly recommend this book. It is a very enjoyable and informative read!
May 19, 2025
For a cookbook that was originally published in 1998, it’s surprisingly held up well. It’s chock full of stories about Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis & her two children John & Caroline. Marta started out as their governess and when the children no longer needed a nanny, Jackie O kept her on as a personal chef. Most of the recipes have an upper East Coast vibe (lots of fresh seafood), there are recipes are soups, salads, main entrees, sides and desserts. I’m definitely going to make the mango ice cream and lemon pound cake.
July 1, 2021
Ok...I'm a Kennedy fan. I'll admit it. ESPECIALLY John F. Kennedy, JR. (hubba hubba!) This recipe book shows the kindness and love that seemed to be prevalent in the family. It's not as hoity-toity as you might perceive and it really more down to earth in its simplicity but with a touch of elegance.
One of my treasures.
One of my treasures.
November 20, 2019
If you're curious of JKO and her tastes, this is a really interesting book. Insightful, entertaining and some pretty decent recipes. Easy read and enjoyable!
February 16, 2020
Love the stories about cooking for Jackie.
March 4, 2025
Second time I read this in ten years because I didn't remember it anymore.
I enjoyed seeing behind the scenes, especially kitchen scenes, in the life of an "upper class" American family. I was struck by how grateful everyone was that Marta cooked her special meals for, and what good manners they had. They thanked and praised her not only in person but often sent her thank you notes later on. Jackie Kennedy Onassis ("Madam") left her notes all the time praising her and the Clintons were some of the people who sent Marta thank you notes. That was only in the 80s and 90s, but I can't imagine people doing that now. Marta is so forthright and down to earth; I enjoyed her voice throughout. There are complicated recipes here I would never make but also very simple ones. Lots of fresh herbs, seasonal vegetables and lemon in everything. I made the lemon pound cake which was incredibly rich and satisfyingly tart. Her "mousse-like" brownies I made gluten free with buckwheat flour and they turned out well; next time I would get them out of the oven a few minutes sooner than the recipe calls for.
I enjoyed seeing behind the scenes, especially kitchen scenes, in the life of an "upper class" American family. I was struck by how grateful everyone was that Marta cooked her special meals for, and what good manners they had. They thanked and praised her not only in person but often sent her thank you notes later on. Jackie Kennedy Onassis ("Madam") left her notes all the time praising her and the Clintons were some of the people who sent Marta thank you notes. That was only in the 80s and 90s, but I can't imagine people doing that now. Marta is so forthright and down to earth; I enjoyed her voice throughout. There are complicated recipes here I would never make but also very simple ones. Lots of fresh herbs, seasonal vegetables and lemon in everything. I made the lemon pound cake which was incredibly rich and satisfyingly tart. Her "mousse-like" brownies I made gluten free with buckwheat flour and they turned out well; next time I would get them out of the oven a few minutes sooner than the recipe calls for.
March 17, 2014
A beautiful historical document as well as a lovely cookbook with delicious recipes.
Of course, the main reason people would buy this book is for the opportunity to get a glimpse into the private world of a famously private American icon, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. This is surprisingly intimate, featuring family celebrations, travels and seasonal favorites from the northeastern United States, where the family was based.
The food is delicious, and, as you would expect, sometimes expensive to prepare (i.e., lobster). Still, the recipes are straightforward, featuring few ingredients, fresh flavors and simple preparation.
I have prepared several dishes (though, not the lobster!) and I find the recipes very good.
Of course, the main reason people would buy this book is for the opportunity to get a glimpse into the private world of a famously private American icon, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. This is surprisingly intimate, featuring family celebrations, travels and seasonal favorites from the northeastern United States, where the family was based.
The food is delicious, and, as you would expect, sometimes expensive to prepare (i.e., lobster). Still, the recipes are straightforward, featuring few ingredients, fresh flavors and simple preparation.
I have prepared several dishes (though, not the lobster!) and I find the recipes very good.
June 18, 2007
Written by Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis' long-time cook and companion, the book gives you a season-by-season, behind-the-scene glimpse at the Kennedy/Onassis family -- what they ate and what they did. The book didn't feel like an expose. (It was written with the full knowledge of the Kennedy/Onassis clan.) Instead, it had a personal scrapbook feel to it. Lots of personal anecdotes and pictures to accent the recipes. You can tell the recipes were written by a very instinctual chef. (Marta Sgubin, the author, is self-taught.) As such, some of the measurements are not exact. But, you likely won't mind, as you'll be too wrapped up in tales from Martha's Vineyard to care.
June 25, 2008
I thought Marta was charming. I can't comment on the quality of the recipes but her description of the food/traditions was interesting. I would only recommend this book to a genuine Kennedy freak. Those poor people. I feel like everyone that ever worked for them wrote about them.
March 26, 2013
When Caroline was 11 and John was 8, Marta became their governess. She also became a member of the family and after the children were to old to be nannied, Marta became Jackie's personal cook. She shares her recipes and some personal stories that go along with them.
July 7, 2012
Loved loved it
February 15, 2016
Not many recipes and less that I would want to try. A few pictures of the family and a short narrative that I did not find interesting.
January 13, 2017
Delightful memoir. Didn't try the recipes, but they look enchanting.
Displaying 1 - 15 of 15 reviews