I’m not lost for words. I can think of a hundred words to describe how I feel about this book but none of them is adequate.
Christiane Ritter, an Austrian artist, lived with her husband, a hunter in Spitsbergen, for a year. Hunters lived solitary and dangerous lives but thrived on the challenge. Christiane’s husband, Hermann, invited her to join him and another hunter because they wanted a ‘housewife’. Over the winter, she would be left on her own while they went hunting. No electricity, no facilities, no running water, nothing but a tiny stove to heat the tiny hut which was barely a bunk’s length wide and which would mostly be completely immersed in snow. This would be an adventure in contemporary, tech-driven times but this was 1934.
The translation is a bit clumsy at times and the writing lacks rhythm because of it. Usually, that would bother me hugely but it didn’t because I was so enthralled by the content. Ritter’s descriptions of the landscape, the polar night, the variations in light, the extremes of weather and cold, are richer because she is a painter.
Northern lights of incredible intensity stream over the sky; their bright rays shooting downward, look like gleaming rods of glass. They break out from a tremendous height and seem to be falling directly toward me, growing brighter and clearer, in radiant lilacs, greens, and pinks, swinging and whirling around their own axis in a wild dance that sweeps over the entire sky, and then, in drifting undulating veils, they fade and vanish.
The oppression of endless dark days in a hut with dripping wet bunks and an inch thick coating of ice on the inside walls is unimaginable. Not only is there no sunlight, there is no moonlight either. Just blackness. The ground is frozen hard as steel. The dead cannot be buried in Spitsbergen in wintertime. The hunters, to save them from the bears and foxes, keep their dead comrades in the hut right through the winter. The eggs drop like stones out of their shells and the condensed milk rattles in its tins... Unimaginable but, for Christiane Ritter, magical.
Everything breathes the same serenity. It is as though a current of the most holy and perfect peace were streaming through all the landscape. ....this stupendous and glorious world.
My partner and I have spent weeks looking at cruises to Svalbard. It’s not such an unusual choice any more. We’re drawn to the landscape, the wildlife, the excitement of the experience. We’ve decided not to go because it seems wrong. I’m not saying it’s wrong for everyone but it feels wrong for us. Looking at the convoys of cruise ships rounding Cape Horn and exploring the Alaskan fjords, we don’t feel we want to contribute to the commercialisation of once wild places and would rather leave the wildlife and wild places in peace. I’ll leave the last words to Ritter.
No, the Arctic does not yield its secret for the price of a ship’s ticket. You must live through the long night, the storms, and the destruction of human pride. You must have gazed on the deadness of all things to grasp their livingness. In the return of light, in the magic of the ice, in the life-rhythm of the animals observed in the wilderness, in the natural laws of all being, revealed here in their completeness, lies the secret of the Arctic and the overpowering beauty of its lands.