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The Biscuit: The History of a Very British Indulgence
Bourbons. Custard Creams. Rich Tea. Jammie Dodgers. Chocolate Digestives. Shortbread. Ginger snaps. Which is your favourite? British people eat more biscuits than any other nation; they are as embedded in our culture as fish and chips or the Sunday roast. We follow the humble biscuit's transformation from durable staple for sailors, explorers and colonists to sweet luxury for the middling classes to comfort food for an entire nation. Like an assorted tin of biscuits, this charming and beautifully illustrated book has something to offer for everyone, combining recipes for hardtack and macaroons, Shrewsbury biscuits and Garibaldis, with entertaining and eye-opening vignettes of social history.
312 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 2021
20 people are currently reading
496 people want to read
About the author
Lizzie Collingham
7 books66 followersDr. Elizabeth M. Collingham is an English historian interested in linking the minutiae of daily life to the broad sweep of historical processes. Her first book, Imperial Bodies, explored the physical experience of the British raj and the way in which concerns about race and imperialism found expression in debates about physique and diet.
She studied at Sussex and Cambridge where she completed her PhD on the nabobs of the British Raj. She has lectured at Warwick University and been a reasearch fellow at Jesus College, Cambridge.
She studied at Sussex and Cambridge where she completed her PhD on the nabobs of the British Raj. She has lectured at Warwick University and been a reasearch fellow at Jesus College, Cambridge.
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Displaying 1 - 27 of 27 reviews
January 16, 2023
Review If this book had been entitled, 'How the discovery of the New World, the Indies, and just about Everywhere Else was dependent on Ship's Biscuit plus other miscellanea,' it would have been more accurate. That was actually interesting. it was a way of preserving food, and quite a high calorie one as it was a stiff mixture of flour, water and salt baked in a hot oven and then allowed to dry out completely until it was so hard it could reputedly stop a bullet! They were eaten dipped in soup or stew, which would soften them and provide the carbohydrate part of a meal long after the vegetables had gone rotten.
You know the phrase, 'slush fund'? Here is its origin (closely tied to ship's biscuit which made dog biscuits seem soft by comparison, and yes I did try one once, it was bland).
________
Reading notes "Fascinating," says Prue Leith, but as I've learned blurbs are written by the PR team and then passed to Prue Leith's team to see if she would 'say it'. Since publicity in the media and on the back cover of a book is all good to someone who makes their money based on their popularity, her PR team agrees. I bet she didn't read it though. It is not fascinating.
It is a history book that concentrates a lot on ship's biscuit and all the voyages and explorations that couldn't have taken place without it. It also doesn't mention slavery in connection with sugar becoming so cheap that even labourers could pile it into their tea.
British Colonialism is mentioned. Right now I'm reading about the habit of tea-drinking and little pastries became a thing for Indians. And how the British did not rule by suppression, the military and taxes, but doing their best to be seen as decent men always displaying British values even though they were somewhat suppresive, lol.
What the author has to say about peanuts is slightly horrifying but given peanuts deliciousness, inevitable that all should enjoy them and then forget their origins and with a bit of newspeak redefine them so no one would have to actually think of slaves. Perhaps I think too much of slaves being as my family here is black and were all brought here as slaves. One of my late brothers in law who died in 2009 in his 90s, his grandpa and grandma would have been slaves.
You know the phrase, 'slush fund'? Here is its origin (closely tied to ship's biscuit which made dog biscuits seem soft by comparison, and yes I did try one once, it was bland).
Fowl Play: Slush was the fat that rose to the top of a vat of boiled salt beef. The cook was not supposed to give it to the sailors to add to their duffs or puddings because it was considered unwholesome and even to cause scurvy. Instead, they would save it and sell it once they went ashore to tallow makers, who would gather on the docks when ships came in. This made the cook a small profit and is the origin of the term ‘slush fund’.It was quite an interesting book, mostly history. There were some interesting recipes here and there, some historical, but there wasn't enough about delicious biscuits, or cookies as Americans call them derived from the Dutch 'koekje' pron. kookiyeh. I wanted details of all the best ones. 3.5 star. Rounded up because of the
________
Reading notes "Fascinating," says Prue Leith, but as I've learned blurbs are written by the PR team and then passed to Prue Leith's team to see if she would 'say it'. Since publicity in the media and on the back cover of a book is all good to someone who makes their money based on their popularity, her PR team agrees. I bet she didn't read it though. It is not fascinating.
It is a history book that concentrates a lot on ship's biscuit and all the voyages and explorations that couldn't have taken place without it. It also doesn't mention slavery in connection with sugar becoming so cheap that even labourers could pile it into their tea.
With the influx of West Indian sugar into England, the sweet stuff had lost its magical aura. It was no longer necessary to master the mysterious art of clarifying and refining sugar, as the refineries dotting the banks of the Thames did the work of transforming the brown muscovado shipped by the planters into sparkling white crystals.The planters are the good guys sending over this nice stuff. But who grew it, who cut it, who refined it? Only slaves whose labour was free so that it could be nice and cheap back 'home'.
British Colonialism is mentioned. Right now I'm reading about the habit of tea-drinking and little pastries became a thing for Indians. And how the British did not rule by suppression, the military and taxes, but doing their best to be seen as decent men always displaying British values even though they were somewhat suppresive, lol.
What the author has to say about peanuts is slightly horrifying but given peanuts deliciousness, inevitable that all should enjoy them and then forget their origins and with a bit of newspeak redefine them so no one would have to actually think of slaves. Perhaps I think too much of slaves being as my family here is black and were all brought here as slaves. One of my late brothers in law who died in 2009 in his 90s, his grandpa and grandma would have been slaves.
In early nineteenth-century America, white southerners spurned peanuts as ‘slave food’. Slaves had grown them in their garden plots to supplement their rations of cornmeal and salt fish. In the North they were seen as a vulgar snack of the poor. But during the Civil War many white Americans were forced to turn to peanuts to overcome food shortages. By the late nineteenth century they had been redefined as an American heritage food.There are some good recipes that if I actually baked or even if I had some flour, white sugar and butter in the house I might give a go, but I haven't got any of those things nor even an oven. Right now I really want a packet of chocolate digestives, squashed fly or Bourbon creams to dunk in my tea (sorrel tea, gone off PG Tips) but you can't get them over here.
February 7, 2021
When I mention that I've been reading a history of biscuits, people's usual response is confusion about why that would take a whole book or be particularly interesting. The answer is that Collingham discusses the social, economic and political circumstances surrounding the development of biscuits, and though the subtitle calls it a “British indulgence“, it discusses other countries too and the colonial uses of biscuits (yes, really -- they were thought to be useful in 'civilising' places like India).
This was exactly what I was hoping for: a microhistory on a really narrow topic that used that topic to reflect on larger issues. You might not automatically think of looking at the Industrial Revolution through the role of biscuits, or realise the extent to which naval voyages of exploration relied on ship's biscuit, or appreciate the fact that the original biscuits were twice-baked bread made a couple of times a year in communities that couldn't afford to bake fresh bread every day... but all those different topics can open out when you start digging in.
You don't just get to learn about when they started making Jammie Dodgers, or that the company was notoriously cheapskate and used plums for the "raspberry" jam in them because it was cheaper than raspberries... that's certainly one of the things I learned, but I also learned that the custom of following savoury food with a sweet dessert has come down in a very long tradition from when the stomach was thought to putrefy food, and Arab ideas that sugar was ideal to help seal off the stomach from harmful vapours caused by that process.
In the end, it's a history of biscuits and it comes back to that pretty swiftly when it strays away, but using the biscuit as a home base, it can tell you an awful lot.
In addition, it also contains some recipes between chapters, some of them traditional and others from modern sources. I haven't tried any, since I'm not the baker of the family and I'm also very lazy, but it's a nice touch and we'll probably keep my copy in order to give them a try someday.
This was exactly what I was hoping for: a microhistory on a really narrow topic that used that topic to reflect on larger issues. You might not automatically think of looking at the Industrial Revolution through the role of biscuits, or realise the extent to which naval voyages of exploration relied on ship's biscuit, or appreciate the fact that the original biscuits were twice-baked bread made a couple of times a year in communities that couldn't afford to bake fresh bread every day... but all those different topics can open out when you start digging in.
You don't just get to learn about when they started making Jammie Dodgers, or that the company was notoriously cheapskate and used plums for the "raspberry" jam in them because it was cheaper than raspberries... that's certainly one of the things I learned, but I also learned that the custom of following savoury food with a sweet dessert has come down in a very long tradition from when the stomach was thought to putrefy food, and Arab ideas that sugar was ideal to help seal off the stomach from harmful vapours caused by that process.
In the end, it's a history of biscuits and it comes back to that pretty swiftly when it strays away, but using the biscuit as a home base, it can tell you an awful lot.
In addition, it also contains some recipes between chapters, some of them traditional and others from modern sources. I haven't tried any, since I'm not the baker of the family and I'm also very lazy, but it's a nice touch and we'll probably keep my copy in order to give them a try someday.
January 27, 2022
How biscuits first appeared on the scene, and how they travelled, now upheld by monastics, now the mainstay of traders and sailors. How the art of biscuit-making, and the accompanied biscuit-consumption, went from being the domain of a privileged elite to that of the general public. The rise of biscuit factories. Biscuit tins and their many uses. Life in a biscuit factory. Biscuit advertising. The histories of major biscuit brands. Ship’s biscuit and army biscuits, and how biscuits were a bulwark in the building of empires. And much, much more.
I loved this book. Lizzie Collingham is an excellent writer, and her easy (but never flippant) style of writing is immensely readable. The Biscuit is a wonderfully informative and interesting history of the biscuit, told primarily from the point of view of the British, though extending to other countries (especially in Western Europe, and to some extent the USA) wherever necessary. The balance is maintained well; I didn’t have any questions lurking in my mind because there were gaps in the narrative, and yet there wasn’t an overload of information either. Similarly, the balance between personal and public is good: there are lots of interesting insights here into how biscuits came into the lives of everyday people through the ages, with quotes, letters, and even recipes included. There are pictures, from fine old paintings and etchings, to advertisements, photographs and more, all featuring the biscuit.
An invaluable book. I will now look with new respect at the biscuit that accompanies my cup of coffee.
I loved this book. Lizzie Collingham is an excellent writer, and her easy (but never flippant) style of writing is immensely readable. The Biscuit is a wonderfully informative and interesting history of the biscuit, told primarily from the point of view of the British, though extending to other countries (especially in Western Europe, and to some extent the USA) wherever necessary. The balance is maintained well; I didn’t have any questions lurking in my mind because there were gaps in the narrative, and yet there wasn’t an overload of information either. Similarly, the balance between personal and public is good: there are lots of interesting insights here into how biscuits came into the lives of everyday people through the ages, with quotes, letters, and even recipes included. There are pictures, from fine old paintings and etchings, to advertisements, photographs and more, all featuring the biscuit.
An invaluable book. I will now look with new respect at the biscuit that accompanies my cup of coffee.
May 16, 2021
This is definitely one of the best nonfictions I've read in a while. Honestly, I wish more books on topics that interest me were written that way.
In my experience, books that aim to convey a speficic topic to a non-expert audience are often either too abstract or too flowery in a failed attempt to be accessible or vivid. This one, however, is really well constructed and written. I had no idea how multifaceted the history of the biscuit (in American English: cookies & crackers) is. While reading, one also refreshes general historical knowledge that's gathered dust in the back of the brain since school. It starts with the ancient Romans, covers 9th century Baghdad, confectioners in Cairo, ship's biscuits from the 16th century, working conditions in 19th century British factories and provisions of soldiers in the 1st and 2nd World War, among many other topics. Collingham draws from a wide variety of published and a few archival documents: research literature, private and published cookbooks, (reprinted) accounts of workers, sailors, soldiers, bakers, all of which is made into a very informative, but not difficult, read. There are many interesting details to be found. For example: Did you know that KitKat introduced their slogan 'Have a break, have a Kit Kat', when due to a shortage of servants in the 1930s, middle-class women started to do housework in the morning which led to the need for a new break in their daily routine? What I personally loved as a student of literature: The author sometimes references literary works from the time she is writing about - and even the table of contents reminds of the famous table of contents Cervantes wrote for Don Quijote. However, even though the book makes a convincing case for Britain as an important country in the history of the biscuit, at least from the 19th century on, and in part takes other countries into account, it left me wondering if there isn't also a history of, say, the Italian biscuit still waiting to be written. (If you can recommend me anything, please leave a comment!) The copy itself is nicely made, with its prettily impregnated dust cover, the comfortable layout and thick paper.
Of course there are also (historical & modern day) recipes too be found. But: The Linzer cookie recipe ( - an all time favourite of mine that I bake every Christmas since I was a child -) is definitely not authentic: Not only are there no almonds or cinnamon in the real recipe, there is also no reason why of all available flavours one would have to use raspberry jam.
The only other thing I would change if there was to be a second edition: I constantly googled different types of biscuits or utensils while reading. There are a few colour and some black and white depictions in the book (for example biscuit advertisements, frescos, fotos of street sellers) but I find it could still use more. This also led the advertisments on my phone to increasingly show me recipes of biscotti...
In my experience, books that aim to convey a speficic topic to a non-expert audience are often either too abstract or too flowery in a failed attempt to be accessible or vivid. This one, however, is really well constructed and written. I had no idea how multifaceted the history of the biscuit (in American English: cookies & crackers) is. While reading, one also refreshes general historical knowledge that's gathered dust in the back of the brain since school. It starts with the ancient Romans, covers 9th century Baghdad, confectioners in Cairo, ship's biscuits from the 16th century, working conditions in 19th century British factories and provisions of soldiers in the 1st and 2nd World War, among many other topics. Collingham draws from a wide variety of published and a few archival documents: research literature, private and published cookbooks, (reprinted) accounts of workers, sailors, soldiers, bakers, all of which is made into a very informative, but not difficult, read. There are many interesting details to be found. For example: Did you know that KitKat introduced their slogan 'Have a break, have a Kit Kat', when due to a shortage of servants in the 1930s, middle-class women started to do housework in the morning which led to the need for a new break in their daily routine? What I personally loved as a student of literature: The author sometimes references literary works from the time she is writing about - and even the table of contents reminds of the famous table of contents Cervantes wrote for Don Quijote. However, even though the book makes a convincing case for Britain as an important country in the history of the biscuit, at least from the 19th century on, and in part takes other countries into account, it left me wondering if there isn't also a history of, say, the Italian biscuit still waiting to be written. (If you can recommend me anything, please leave a comment!) The copy itself is nicely made, with its prettily impregnated dust cover, the comfortable layout and thick paper.
Of course there are also (historical & modern day) recipes too be found. But: The Linzer cookie recipe ( - an all time favourite of mine that I bake every Christmas since I was a child -) is definitely not authentic: Not only are there no almonds or cinnamon in the real recipe, there is also no reason why of all available flavours one would have to use raspberry jam.
The only other thing I would change if there was to be a second edition: I constantly googled different types of biscuits or utensils while reading. There are a few colour and some black and white depictions in the book (for example biscuit advertisements, frescos, fotos of street sellers) but I find it could still use more. This also led the advertisments on my phone to increasingly show me recipes of biscotti...
November 30, 2020
Oh the feeling when you are redeemed years later after a conversation. The British habit of a cuppa and a biscuit is only as old as the time after WWII! That’s when it became a thing as British as fish and chips. Thank you Dr. Collingham! I learnt a lot about biscuits not just about the British tea time habit but the where it all began in the ancient world right up to the present day. This might not be everyone’s cuppa (sorry) but I enjoy her books! Food and history: what’s not to love.
July 9, 2022
I love biscuits and every time I opened this book I wanted to eat one. The Biscuit Book - The History of a Very British Indulgence by Lizzie Collingham is naturally full of biscuits, sponge fingers, biscotti, shortbread, macaroons, crackers, digestives, pretzels, rusks, scones, wafers, waffles and much much more.
This is a serious history book that focuses on the origin of particular biscuits, the production and manufacturing of biscuits, the distribution of biscuits, the effect of class and the conditions of workers employed in biscuit factories.
There's quite a lot on the history of sugar, and while you might assume this to be dry, Collingham provides many interesting sweet morsels like this one:
"During the seventeenth century, treacle replaced honey in gingerbread. Treacle is the English name for the molasses or sweet uncrystallised syrup that drains out during the production of sugar as it slowly crystallises into a solid mass. From the 1650s, raw brown muscovado sugar from Britain's new sugar colony in Barbados flooded the London sugar market, and by 1692 there were 38 sugar refineries in the capital, processing the brown sugar cones into white refined sugar. A by-product was plenty of cheap molasses." Page 58-59
To find out what they did with all of that molasses, you'll have to read the book.
Did you know that biscuits with aniseed and caraway seeds were thought to aid digestion and give the consumer fresh breath? Thankfully aniseed and caraway seeds fell out of favour with the French influence of citrus zest for flavourings and the author covers many more cases like this where various countries and cultures have influenced or adopted certain biscuit recipes. Collingham takes us beyond country or culture of origin to explain the how and why those particular items rose to favour in the first place.
This includes describing the origin of biscuit names as they arise in the text, and explaining the continental confusion between biscuits, crackers and cookies:
"What confuses us today is terminology: what the English would now call biscuits, the Americans call crackers or cookies; what the English think of as scones, southern Americans call biscuits. This confusion can be unravelled by tracing the introduction of Dutch bakery traditions into the Americas." Page 86
Further on, the author goes on to explain that:
"the American use of the terms cracker and cookie are the result of a far more straightforward Americanisation of Dutch words." Page 91
Collingham also provides a detailed and thorough history on the evolution of ship's biscuits and hardtack and outlines just how crucial they were to explorers, travellers, traders and of course the war effort. The twentieth century production of biscuits during the two world wars and the produce shortages that preceded and followed them are also covered in great detail, but I'll admit finding these sections somewhat hard going.
Bakers, cooks and home chefs will appreciate the many recipes included throughout, and I was astounded (okay, that's probably the wrong word, perhaps horrified?) to read that many of the original biscuit recipes required hours of whisking.
"But it was the invention of the metal whisk to replace the bundle of twigs used to beat confections in the still room that marked a big step forward in biscuit making. Seventeenth-century instructions specified that at each stage of the process the biscuit dough had to be beaten for at least two hours. In the 1760s, [Elizabeth] Raffald suggested that a mere half an hour with the far more efficient metal whisk was sufficient for each stage, thus reducing the beating time from 6 to 1 1/2 hours." Page 102
Imagine being the person whisking away for hours and if you're a servant, not even being able to taste the fruits of your labour. A detailed history of production, design and distribution of the biscuit tin was fascinating and reading about the many uses for them around the world was an eye opener.
I will say The Biscuit Book - The History of a Very British Indulgence is heavily focussed on war and the effect on biscuits and vice versa, and when I learned the author had published The Taste of War: World War II and The Battle for Food and The Hungry Empire: How Britain's Quest for Food Shaped the Modern World, it became clear that this is the author's area of specialist interest and expertise.
Those looking for a brief history on some of their favourite biccies (Australian slang) like Jaffa Cakes, Kit Kats, Jammie Dodgers, Wagon Wheels, Ryvita and Marie biscuits will find it here, however be prepared to learn way more than anticipated along the way.
The Biscuit Book is recommended for history buffs and biscuit lovers while other readers may find this a little dry and stale.
This is a serious history book that focuses on the origin of particular biscuits, the production and manufacturing of biscuits, the distribution of biscuits, the effect of class and the conditions of workers employed in biscuit factories.
There's quite a lot on the history of sugar, and while you might assume this to be dry, Collingham provides many interesting sweet morsels like this one:
"During the seventeenth century, treacle replaced honey in gingerbread. Treacle is the English name for the molasses or sweet uncrystallised syrup that drains out during the production of sugar as it slowly crystallises into a solid mass. From the 1650s, raw brown muscovado sugar from Britain's new sugar colony in Barbados flooded the London sugar market, and by 1692 there were 38 sugar refineries in the capital, processing the brown sugar cones into white refined sugar. A by-product was plenty of cheap molasses." Page 58-59
To find out what they did with all of that molasses, you'll have to read the book.
Did you know that biscuits with aniseed and caraway seeds were thought to aid digestion and give the consumer fresh breath? Thankfully aniseed and caraway seeds fell out of favour with the French influence of citrus zest for flavourings and the author covers many more cases like this where various countries and cultures have influenced or adopted certain biscuit recipes. Collingham takes us beyond country or culture of origin to explain the how and why those particular items rose to favour in the first place.
This includes describing the origin of biscuit names as they arise in the text, and explaining the continental confusion between biscuits, crackers and cookies:
"What confuses us today is terminology: what the English would now call biscuits, the Americans call crackers or cookies; what the English think of as scones, southern Americans call biscuits. This confusion can be unravelled by tracing the introduction of Dutch bakery traditions into the Americas." Page 86
Further on, the author goes on to explain that:
"the American use of the terms cracker and cookie are the result of a far more straightforward Americanisation of Dutch words." Page 91
Collingham also provides a detailed and thorough history on the evolution of ship's biscuits and hardtack and outlines just how crucial they were to explorers, travellers, traders and of course the war effort. The twentieth century production of biscuits during the two world wars and the produce shortages that preceded and followed them are also covered in great detail, but I'll admit finding these sections somewhat hard going.
Bakers, cooks and home chefs will appreciate the many recipes included throughout, and I was astounded (okay, that's probably the wrong word, perhaps horrified?) to read that many of the original biscuit recipes required hours of whisking.
"But it was the invention of the metal whisk to replace the bundle of twigs used to beat confections in the still room that marked a big step forward in biscuit making. Seventeenth-century instructions specified that at each stage of the process the biscuit dough had to be beaten for at least two hours. In the 1760s, [Elizabeth] Raffald suggested that a mere half an hour with the far more efficient metal whisk was sufficient for each stage, thus reducing the beating time from 6 to 1 1/2 hours." Page 102
Imagine being the person whisking away for hours and if you're a servant, not even being able to taste the fruits of your labour. A detailed history of production, design and distribution of the biscuit tin was fascinating and reading about the many uses for them around the world was an eye opener.
I will say The Biscuit Book - The History of a Very British Indulgence is heavily focussed on war and the effect on biscuits and vice versa, and when I learned the author had published The Taste of War: World War II and The Battle for Food and The Hungry Empire: How Britain's Quest for Food Shaped the Modern World, it became clear that this is the author's area of specialist interest and expertise.
Those looking for a brief history on some of their favourite biccies (Australian slang) like Jaffa Cakes, Kit Kats, Jammie Dodgers, Wagon Wheels, Ryvita and Marie biscuits will find it here, however be prepared to learn way more than anticipated along the way.
The Biscuit Book is recommended for history buffs and biscuit lovers while other readers may find this a little dry and stale.
December 26, 2023
A lovely a bit of food history and a bit of social history and this combined the two together very nicely! That said, does anyone ever make any of the recipes in these books?
July 15, 2025
I enjoyed this very British history of a very British Indulgence. Like the crackers it documents, it can be dry sometimes, but generally it's a good read that kept me entertained right through to the end. From the origins of twice-baked rusks in ancient Rome and Greece, through the introduction of sugar via the Islamic world, to the long life as military rations and then on to a tasty treat that began an item of luxury for the wealthy and slowly filtered down to everyday life of most people, we learn about the evolution of the biscuit and all it's methods of creation. Lot's of recognisable brands feature as part of the general history of biscuits, and even more recognisable biscuit recipes and types crop up too. Definitely have a bickie or two on hand while you're reading though, it will make you hungry!
March 21, 2023
Collingham's book on the history of the biscuit is a pleasant enough read and it will certainly provide some interesting insights into the world of the humble baked goody. Whilst the title indicates that she has focused on the British traditions and culture of biscuits there is a more international flavour to her work than might be expected, particularly with reference to the biscuits pre-18th century history. Even, rather too briefly for this Australian reviewer's taste, a section on the classic Anzac Bikkie and a fleeting reference to Arnotts, a famous brand here down under.
The author isn't shy when it comes to giving the humble biscuit a key role in major historical issues, and this is most notable when Collingham speaks to the role of biscuits in naval and maritime history. She places a rather deserving emphasis on the importance of the biscuit as a main foodstuff for those European navigators who charted what was at the time unknown seas and lands. The author continues with this theme of biscuit as a key item for sailors when she speaks to the reliance of the Royal Navy on biscuit during its deployment in wars of the sailing age and beyond. It's a fairly argued approach and engaging subject when it comes to understanding the importance of the biscuit.
There is also similar consideration of biscuits as a key element in military rations and Collingham documents with great effect the role of 'hard tack' and similar biscuits for soldiers, particularly in Britain's wars of the late 19th and early 20th century. She describes in detail the benefits and the problems related to biscuits in the diet of soldiers and speaking from my own experience I can confirm the value of a pack of survival biscuits when you're in the field.
Collingham does spend a good portion of her book considering the economic, social and cultural implications of the commercial biscuit trade in Britain, and she represents it both as a contributor to and symbol of the rise of Britain as an industrial power. A good portion of her narrative follows major British biscuit manufacturers and her discussion of the companies and their products impacts on consumers is well worth consideration. The author explores the supposed 'democratisation' of the biscuit in British society whilst also documenting the experiences of those who worked in the industry during the post-WW1 era. Collingham provides some interesting reflections on how the biscuit has had a changing relationship with consumers and these developments have led to it becoming a crucial mass foodstuff.
All up this is a highly readable and enjoyable work that also appears to have some solid credibility when it comes to the research that went into its writing. I found the recipes that were included in Collingham's narrative to be a bit intrusive and not really necessary, however they will be sure to please other readers. This is a rather digestible book and the author is to be commended for getting as much as she has about the humble biscuit. I can't say I really liked it but just like a pack of Kingstons, Tim Tams or Yo Yos, I'm glad I chewed over what has been written and swallowed what Collingham has served up.
The author isn't shy when it comes to giving the humble biscuit a key role in major historical issues, and this is most notable when Collingham speaks to the role of biscuits in naval and maritime history. She places a rather deserving emphasis on the importance of the biscuit as a main foodstuff for those European navigators who charted what was at the time unknown seas and lands. The author continues with this theme of biscuit as a key item for sailors when she speaks to the reliance of the Royal Navy on biscuit during its deployment in wars of the sailing age and beyond. It's a fairly argued approach and engaging subject when it comes to understanding the importance of the biscuit.
There is also similar consideration of biscuits as a key element in military rations and Collingham documents with great effect the role of 'hard tack' and similar biscuits for soldiers, particularly in Britain's wars of the late 19th and early 20th century. She describes in detail the benefits and the problems related to biscuits in the diet of soldiers and speaking from my own experience I can confirm the value of a pack of survival biscuits when you're in the field.
Collingham does spend a good portion of her book considering the economic, social and cultural implications of the commercial biscuit trade in Britain, and she represents it both as a contributor to and symbol of the rise of Britain as an industrial power. A good portion of her narrative follows major British biscuit manufacturers and her discussion of the companies and their products impacts on consumers is well worth consideration. The author explores the supposed 'democratisation' of the biscuit in British society whilst also documenting the experiences of those who worked in the industry during the post-WW1 era. Collingham provides some interesting reflections on how the biscuit has had a changing relationship with consumers and these developments have led to it becoming a crucial mass foodstuff.
All up this is a highly readable and enjoyable work that also appears to have some solid credibility when it comes to the research that went into its writing. I found the recipes that were included in Collingham's narrative to be a bit intrusive and not really necessary, however they will be sure to please other readers. This is a rather digestible book and the author is to be commended for getting as much as she has about the humble biscuit. I can't say I really liked it but just like a pack of Kingstons, Tim Tams or Yo Yos, I'm glad I chewed over what has been written and swallowed what Collingham has served up.
November 28, 2020
British people eat more biscuits than any other nation; they are as embedded in our culture as fish and chips or the Sunday roast. But biscuits are not only tasty treats to go with a cup of tea, the sustenance they afford is often emotional, evoking nostalgic memories of childhood.
We follow the humble biscuit’s transformation from durable staple for sailors, explorers and colonists to sweet luxury for the middling classes to comfort food for an entire nation. Like an assorted tin of biscuits, this charming and beautifully illustrated book has something to offer for everyone, combining recipes for hardtack and macaroons, Shrewsbury biscuits and Garibaldis, with entertaining and eye-opening vignettes of social history.
Lizzie Collingham throughout this book has such a great voice. Throughout this book she gives incredible descriptions and historical commentary that really does make me so much more interested in the subject as she explored the world via the power of confectionery. I really appreciate at the end of chapters the recipes the author shares and certainly has made me want to try some (especially that waffle recipe! Sounds delicious!).
I also love the breadth of knowledge in this book. It covers an incredible array of biscuits, starting with bread that’s dried out, biscotti and wafers and then into our more modern interpretations of biscuits - I hate ginger biscuits (I’m a redhead smh) but this book’s chapter on gingerbread made me want to reconsider my hatred for them because the knowledge and how the author talks about the subject made me wanna give them a second chance.
A wonderful book I’d expect a QI elf to have in their collection, The Biscuit really does collect social commentary, history, recipes and pictures together to give you a thorough display of biscuits through the ages and does it with a voice that makes that journey that little bit sweeter.
(I received an ARC of this book from Netgalley for review).
February 4, 2021
Well this was a pleasant surprise! I borrowed this from the library with very little knowledge of the content, other than what's indicated by the title. I was half-expecting a journey through the history of the various biscuit manufacturers, or biscuit types, but I got something far more interesting and wide-ranging. This well-written and researched book takes you right back to Roman times and the eruption of Vesuvius, tracking the development of the biscuit from its original inception as a way to safely store grains so they wouldn't spoil, to the evolution of the biscuit-as-a-source-of-comfort concept that's probably still the dominant feature of its current existence. Along the way the author conjures up vivid descriptions of some fairly harsh lifestyles, from Roman slaves to early explorers and sailors, through to soldiers fighting in the two world wars. This is contrasted with the excesses of the more privileged classes, loading their tables with all manner of confections. Even the industrialisation of the manufacturing process is interesting, particularly as it was such a radical concept at the time. This didn't just make me think about biscuits, it made me think about our whole food network, from the type and variety of food that we take for granted nowadays, to the systems that deliver it, and how relatively new all of this is in the span of human history. Definitely recommended - I'm off to see if I can track down any of the other books she has written.
January 16, 2025
The Biscuit: The History of a Very British Indulgence is a delightful book on the history of what Americans would call the cookie but in Britain is the Biscuit. From sailors hard-tack (insert Max Miller clicking two together) to the modern day Bourbon, we find out how and why this tasty little snack has become part of the national conscience. Even in the States, go down the "cookies/crackers" aisle at the supermarket to find Carr and Walker products, among others. Exhaustive research is evident in the excellent bibliography and notes sections; also, an index. There are recipes; get out your scale as they are written in the British way. I will be trying several, especially the Fig Roll (invented in the States and known as the Newton!) and the Bourbon. I had a great time reading this and highly recommend, especially if you have an interest in culinary anthropology and history. The style is easy and informative without being dry. There is one slightly snarky comment about the USA after WWII, but probably only to me. Brew yourself a cuppa, grab a biscuit, and settle in to read this wonderfully charming book.
September 9, 2023
Although biscuits are closely associated with the British, in one form or another, they are an international food. The “bi” in biscuit refers to the practice of baking twice – a procedure that dehydrated the ingredients and made it suitable for long-term storage and providing sustenance on long sailing voyages. It was sugar that really spurred the popularity of biscuits throughout the social classes.
Biscuits were one of the first food substances to be mechanized and much of the book follows the progress of this development. Biscuit factory workers were not paid enough to buy the product they produced, so one of the incentives for British imperialism was to create foreign markets for surplus industrial products.
The book is very thoroughly researched and written in an accessible style. The scope is very broad although not all of the darker aspects of the story are touched on.
Biscuits were one of the first food substances to be mechanized and much of the book follows the progress of this development. Biscuit factory workers were not paid enough to buy the product they produced, so one of the incentives for British imperialism was to create foreign markets for surplus industrial products.
The book is very thoroughly researched and written in an accessible style. The scope is very broad although not all of the darker aspects of the story are touched on.
May 24, 2022
While it seemed silly to me initially, taking a niche topic like the history of biscuits turns out to be a very interesting way to explore a wide range of historical topics through one specific lens.
Which is to say this book is wonderfully fascinating.
It follows the beginnings of the biscuit in the Arab world as a form of double-baked bread intended as a method for keeping grain longer, to its development through Italy and Europe, to Britain where it became the industrialised, mass-produced commodity we know today. The history this book covers manages to touch on geopolitics, social class, colonialism, religious influence... it really manages to go places! And was so interesting as a result.
Oh, and it also comes with biscuit recipes included.
Hugely recommend.
And apologies to everyone I managed to spout biscuit-trivia to while I was reading, wait, actually not sorry!
Which is to say this book is wonderfully fascinating.
It follows the beginnings of the biscuit in the Arab world as a form of double-baked bread intended as a method for keeping grain longer, to its development through Italy and Europe, to Britain where it became the industrialised, mass-produced commodity we know today. The history this book covers manages to touch on geopolitics, social class, colonialism, religious influence... it really manages to go places! And was so interesting as a result.
Oh, and it also comes with biscuit recipes included.
Hugely recommend.
And apologies to everyone I managed to spout biscuit-trivia to while I was reading, wait, actually not sorry!
November 20, 2020
Really enjoying this read. Very informative.
There is a lot of information in this book and the text and formatting put me off a little as it does look like a lot to take in, but on reading it was a little lighter than i imagined, and easy to absorb the information given. I like the inclusion of recipes and the chapter headings were amusing and I thought a nice touch.
It is packed full with stories, and historical details, not just about the biscuit, but those relevant to the topic. Sugar, markets, street food etc and is a great combination of both food and history.. A recommended read.
There is a lot of information in this book and the text and formatting put me off a little as it does look like a lot to take in, but on reading it was a little lighter than i imagined, and easy to absorb the information given. I like the inclusion of recipes and the chapter headings were amusing and I thought a nice touch.
It is packed full with stories, and historical details, not just about the biscuit, but those relevant to the topic. Sugar, markets, street food etc and is a great combination of both food and history.. A recommended read.
January 20, 2022
I feel elated knowing that currently prevalent and mundane activities like having morning tea accompanied with biscuits or having biscuits any time of the day to reduce hunger pangs are not just my family choices but rather an acquired habit out of socio economical advancement of humans in the modern times. Reading this book makes me feel part of a long history of evolution of eating habits of the world. Henceforth, holding a Kit Kat or cream cracker or a fancy biscuit in my hand will definitely take my sub conscious to somewhere in the yesteryear’s of Eurasia. A good book to read.
February 16, 2025
Lizzie Cunningham looks at the history of the biscuit, from Roman times - when biscuits were literally bread that was bis-cuit - twice cooked - to the decadent to Bourbon and custard creams, java cakes and chocolate digestives. With the Industrial Revolution, eating biscuits has become an essential element of British culture, a habit that was transported throughout the Empire. This fascinating book is an absolute pleasure to read. but, be warned: it also made me want to rush out to buy Java Cakes to eat while I read it.
February 15, 2022
I sae this recommended as a different read in a monthly magazine I read and it seemed a little different and I was intrigued. In short, I couldn’t put it down! Beautifully researched and lots of gems of information all put together! Absolutely loved it and would recommend it to any foodie or history buff! And even better, she has added lots of beautiful recipes for the various types of biscuits!
August 14, 2025
A nice comfort read. I wished it had more anecdotes but the author did share some useful insights from the past.
What I missed was global take. This was all too british.
Anyways, I enjoyed the book.
What I missed was global take. This was all too british.
Anyways, I enjoyed the book.
December 27, 2020
Seems to be a bit long and also much less engaging than Hungry Empire.
May 5, 2021
Not as good as some of her other books, but still absolutely fascinating. Not just biscuits but how biscuits contributed to migration, war, national myth-making and empire building. With recipes.
April 22, 2022
mmm bickies
May 25, 2022
Enjoyed learning about one version of the history of the biscuit.
April 1, 2024
I thought it was interesting but also a bit dry. But I think it might be because I was hoping for the history of cookies I was familiar with like chocolate chip, macarons and wagon wheels.
February 10, 2025
Actual Rating: 3.5 stars
December 10, 2021
The biscuit has evolved from a store of grain to a respectable luxury, via arab medicin and sailor's rations. The book focuses mostly on the English industrial biscuit makers of the Victorian era.
February 27, 2023
Gingerbread started as a medicine made of parsnips, honey and ginger. That fact alone was worth 5 stars
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