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Water, Wood, and Wild Things: Learning Craft and Cultivation in a Japanese Mountain Town

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One night, Brooklyn-based artist and food writer Hannah Kirshner received a life-changing invitation to apprentice with a "saké evangelist" in a misty Japanese mountain village called Yamanaka. In a rapidly modernizing Japan, the region--a stronghold of the country's old-fashioned ways--was quickly becoming a destination for chefs and artisans looking to learn about the traditions that have long shaped Japanese culture. Kirshner put on a vest and tie and took her place behind the saké bar. Before long, she met a community of craftspeople, farmers, and foragers--master woodturners, hunters, a paper artist, and a man making charcoal in his nearly abandoned village on the outskirts of town. Kirshner found each craftsperson not only exhibited an extraordinary dedication to their work but their distinct expertise contributed to the fabric of the local culture. Inspired by these masters, she devoted herself to learning how they work and live.

Taking readers deep into evergreen forests, terraced rice fields, and smoke-filled workshops, Kirshner captures the centuries-old traditions still alive in Yamanaka. Water, Wood, and Wild Things invites readers to see what goes into making a fine bowl, a cup of tea, or a harvest of rice and introduces the masters who dedicate their lives to this work. Part travelogue, part meditation on the meaning of work, and full of her own beautiful drawings and recipes, Kirshner's refreshing book is an ode to a place and its people, as well as a profound examination of what it means to sustain traditions and find purpose in cultivation and craft.

368 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 2021

140 people are currently reading
1770 people want to read

About the author

Hannah Kirshner

6 books34 followers
Hannah Kirshner is a writer, artist, and food stylist whose work has appeared in The New York Times, Vogue, Saveur, Taste, Food52, Roads & Kingdoms, and Atlas Obscura, among others. Trained at the Rhode Island School of Design, Kirshner grew up on a small farm outside Seattle and divides her time between Brooklyn and rural Japan.

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5 stars
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 103 reviews
Profile Image for Candi.
707 reviews5,511 followers
February 26, 2024
This book, which I chose quite randomly, is part travelogue, yet so much more than that. It’s a memoir and a celebration of immersion into a culture that brings pure joy to the one that has actively participated. Hannah Kirschner, an artist and food writer from Brooklyn, travels to Japan for a saké apprenticeship and ends up spending four years in the company of craftspeople and farmers in the rural village of Yamanaka. Here she learns about the traditions that have survived centuries despite the constant push of modernization. To this reader, it was beautifully evocative. I may never make it to Japan in body, but I spent some time there in spirit along with Hannah.

“Misty ridges encircle tile-roofed wooden houses and weathered shrines. The smell of cypress and saké permeates the air. Artisans and farmers carry on centuries-old traditions, making tableware by hand and cultivating rice and vegetables. I went there hoping that my two-month apprenticeship at a saké bar would be a gateway into deeper understanding of Japanese food and drinks.”

Not only did she gain better knowledge of the region’s food and drinks, but she also learned a great deal about a number of crafts and a way of living drastically different from our own. She did this with a little bit of luck combined with an admirable desire and willingness to take the time to truly understand the ways of the inhabitants of Yamanaka. No other way to do it successfully, really. Along the way, she made several friends, too. Word got around that this young woman was an enthusiastic and dedicated pupil. Traditional values and practices didn’t necessarily allow for a woman to learn some of these crafts, much less a foreign woman. Hannah, however, was willing to set aside some of her own preconceived notions of how a society “should” live according to our modern ideas. She’s rewarded many times and shares her pleasure with a bit of humor, too.

“Some feminists will think me a traitor, but there’s a certain amount of sexism I’m willing to tolerate for a good pickle.”

Sharing a few days in Hannah’s company, I watched the transformation of rice and water into saké at the local brewery, took part in a tea ceremony, had a soothing soak at the onsen (hot spring), observed the craft of wood turning, participated in a duck hunt, checked wild boar traps, tended a small tanbo (rice paddy), and planted seeds and seedlings in a hatake (vegetable garden.) Honestly, I couldn’t really imagine myself doing some of these things before reading this, but I’d love to take part or at least observe some of these traditions personally. “One of the greatest pleasures of life in Yamanaka is eating a saké kasu soft serve after a soak in the public hot spring…” Yes, please! I nearly skipped the chapter on duck hunting but am pleased I set my initial aversion to the topic aside. The hunters’ reverence for the animal and nature was something I grew to understand, even if you won’t ever see me personally netting ducks at the Katano Duck Pond. In addition to being informative, Hannah Kirshner also writes some lovely, descriptive prose.

“For the darkest months of the year, when I usually feel melancholy and reluctant to go outside, I spent evenings watching the sunset at the edge of the duck pond and days in anticipation of what the next hunt would bring. I noticed the landscape change day to day as the camellias bloomed and dropped their flowers and the long sasa leaves dried to look like goose feathers scattered on the trail. I learned to track the direction and strength of the wind. As light faded from the sky, I meditated on the sound of beating wings.”

I quite enjoyed the time I spent rather peacefully with this book. It felt like a meditation of sorts, and I’d recommend it to anyone that wants a glimpse into the values, traditions and crafts (as well as the lives of those artisans that bring those things to life) of a rural Japanese village. Oh- and Hannah shares some scrumptious recipes at the end of each chapter too! How fun is that?!

“So many times I’d felt excluded and lonely because I didn’t understand or I didn’t belong, but then I’d come to accept that fitting in is not my thing – anywhere in the world – so I may as well be an outsider in a place I love.”
Profile Image for Diane S ☔.
4,901 reviews14.6k followers
April 5, 2021
Although I know some of Japanese history, I knew little of Japanese culture. This book immerses the reader in the culture of one Japanese town. A town that keeps and lives by the old traditions. The town is called Yamanaka and the author spends time there learning so many amazing traditions and ceremonies. A sake bar, I have never had said and never knew it came in so many different flavors. Nor that it is paired with local dishes just as wine is paired with different foods. Later she visits where sake is made.

She learns the intricate matcha tea ceremony and the correct way to put on and wear a kimono. Visits a man who still makes wooden bowls by hand. Visits an onsen, a local bath, which is like a salon where people meet to exchange ideas as well as cleansing oneself. Learn a little about Shinto, a belief system in which everything has a spirit and how this fits into different aspects of their lives. Mountain meijin, men who can read the landscape and one takes her with on his travels, identifying local plants and trees.

Such a wonderful experience Hannah had, so lucky to experience so much that many of us will never have the opportunity to see. The end of each chapter includes a recipe of local cuisine and there are illustrations as well. I enjoyed taking this trip with her, albeit from my reading chair.

ARC from Netgalley.
Profile Image for Iris Bennett.
21 reviews2 followers
August 10, 2021
I was completely at peace while reading this book...except for one moment when I read “there’s a certain amount of sexism I’m willing to tolerate for a good pickle”(187).
2 reviews
March 29, 2021
Hannah Kirshner’s descriptions of Japan are unlike any I’ve read before. Instead of anime, robot cafes and cool hunting in Shinjuku she describes her many experiences in rural Japan, far from the bright neon lights. There she met artisans and craftspeople still making beautiful objects in ways similar to the ways they were made centuries ago. While living in a small town her curiosity and talents, and obviously her social skills, allowed her to join up with local people and learn from them. She went from novice to having expertise (my word) in a range of areas, described well in the publisher’s blurb.

I greatly enjoyed reading her accounts. She was sometimes poetic when writing about the beauty around her, sometimes almost textbook-like when describing the technical aspects of what she was doing. What made the book such a joy to read were the ways she described the people and the communities she interacted with. And as someone who greatly enjoys Japanese food, she interspersed recipes throughout the book.
Profile Image for Cal.
195 reviews26 followers
April 28, 2021
I deeply enjoyed this book. kirshner had a way of fleshing out her experience in such a way that it was easy to fall in love with yamanaka, while also getting to understand its challenges and changes.

as someone who is fascinated by artists of any craft, but especially preservation of traditional crafts, this book was a delight. as a plantswoman, some of my favorite parts were hearing about how kirshner cooked with foraged herbs and plants, her gardening adventures, older residents passing on preparations and recipes, and any and all about forestry and foraging.

but honestly the best part for me was getting to experience how connected kirshner became with the community (humans, plants, animals, culture, and cycles) over the years of visiting, and her deepening love for a place, in a time when life can sometimes feel so transient and unrooted
Profile Image for Phil.
90 reviews2 followers
November 19, 2021
This book is more a memoir of a rich person who left her husband for a few years to do whatever she wanted in Japan. There's a recipe here and there, and the typical insufferable stuff you get from any writing about Japan (she feels the need to always honor the ō even though most people just write Tokyo rather than Tōkyō, and yet no kanji appears even though she describes characters...). It kind of lost me at the beginning when she said she had "backyard chickens in Brooklyn" - like you gotta be ultra rich to have a yard with chickens in Brooklyn (not to mention taking years off to do unpaid jobs in Japan). And while the scenes she describes are interesting, it's ultimately all over the place and I got bored half way through.
Profile Image for Jim.
831 reviews127 followers
January 14, 2025
https://roadsandkingdoms.com/2016/the... still reading felt like sharing pictures.

Quote:
One of his favorite tricks is to serve you the same saké in two distinctly shaped cups. It tastes dramatically different, even to the untrained palate. While a scientist might tell you it’s a simple matter of how much aroma reaches your nose, in that moment it’s magic.

Funny. I have noticed the same thing with coffee.

This is one of those books that I read 15 pages and put back down and pick back up every few weeks.

She worked with Mushu. https://allabout-japan.com/en/article...

She is now with older men in the late night woods catching ducks with nets in a traditional method tied to Samurai culture.
Profile Image for Iris McFarlin.
24 reviews
December 7, 2022
So peaceful, so quietly inspiring, so meditative… I didn’t really want it to end.
Profile Image for Kaitlyn C.
3 reviews
November 10, 2024
It took me over a year to finish this book, but I honestly wouldn't have had it another way. It was impossible for me to speed through this book, since the experience of reading it made me want to slow down in all aspects of life...and naturally that carried over into my reading habits. I'm really glad to have had this book in my back pocket this past year; it was there when I most needed it, reminding me to take a step back and to go play in the dirt (lol). I only hope I can actually visit the real place and experience the traditions, food, and craftsmanship this book so beautifully captures one day.
266 reviews8 followers
May 5, 2022
Hannah Kirschner is a natural ethnographer, as my friend john Mccreery pointed out , when he recommended the book to me.
This is a tremendous recounting of her learning the basics of many crafts in rural, mountainous Japan.
Profile Image for Holly.
31 reviews5 followers
March 5, 2025
One of my favorite reads in a long time, this book brought me back to what I love about Japan -- the artisanship, the neighborly care especially in small towns, the simple yet elegant food.

Hannah has a beautiful way of describing both her connection to the mountain town and its people, a way that makes it easy to peer through her eyes as a foreigner and outsider but eager student.

Simply delightful, meditative, and wistful.
9 reviews
January 30, 2022
Gosh, where to begin? Perhaps the end. Author Hannah Kirshner states in her afterword, "I hope that I've made you fall in love with Yamanaka, but also that you will think about the unique and interesting culture wherever you are."

Success!

I've been a Japanophile (?) for many years (despite having never been there... it's on my list, if we ever get past this pandemic.) Kirshner only deepened my desire to visit Japan, and now I know with certainty that Yamanaka will be among my travels there.

SO MUCH of this book resonated with me!

The things that drew me to the book initially, were the themes of Craftsmanship and Cultivation. As I read "Water, Wood..." I was often reminded of books such as Richard Sennett's "The Craftsman," and Matthew B. Crawford's "Shopclass as Soulcraft." Heck, even Robert Pirsig's "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" came into my mind. (All 3 are among my favorites.) They are somehow tangentially related to Kirshner's book, if only in my own mind.

Kirshner's writing style is crisp and elegant, with plenty of lovely, spare sentences that I imagine Hemingway would have enjoyed. She sprinkled in various bits of Japanese wisdom and observations about who they are as a culture, that made me smile.

I loved little passages like this: >>>"Japanese people seem to take up less space with their presence, neatly folding themselves into small spaces, speaking in soft voices, and moving through the world with an awareness of how they might affect others. I accidentally slam doors and bump into things."

Now that I've finished the book, I vow that I'll never waste even one grain of rice again. (Her depiction of learning to farm rice was terrific!) I want to carve my own "wagatabon" wooden tray. I want to hunt ducks with nets on poles that are tossed into the air. I want to forage for wild greens. I want to make some of the recipes that close out each chapter. I want to pay more attention to sake. However I don't think I'll be butchering my own wild boar....

One thing I'll add is that she describes a whole wealth of Japanese objects, places and things, and it was difficult at times for me to keep up. (Thankfully, I was reading the Kindle version on my iPad and could highlight a word and look it up.) Not a fault of her writing, but something I had to really work to keep up with at times.

Also, I feel like this book is ripe for a photographic edition. It would make a GORGEOUS coffee table book. (Including photos of her recipes. She is a food stylist, among many other talents.) I couldn't resist checking out her Instagram while reading the book. https://www.instagram.com/sweetsnbitt...

Highly recommended, whether you are smitten with Japan or not.

Profile Image for Tess Bandos.
203 reviews7 followers
September 29, 2021
I would love to visit Japan one day, especially a mountain town like Yamanaka. It's intriguing to try on a life that is the complete opposite of my own, and I'm thankful this author allowed the reader to do that vicariously through her writing.

I loved the parts about the onsen and how this concept doesn't really exist in American culture. A true community center. That would be something amazing to experience!

I wish there was more about Shinto. That's a topic that really interests me, but I don't know much about it. I wish that was part of her journey so I could learn more, but I'll seek out other sources for that. I'm happy she touched on it though! It's convincing me to do more research!

It was a little frustrating to read about the still present sexism in the culture, but I appreciated that the author didn't insert herself to attempt to "change their ways." She was always respectful and gracious in these situations and it was not a main focus of this book.

In summary, it was a very detailed and descriptive account of her time there. Sometimes I found myself wanting a little more excitement or more of a story line, but I know that's not what this book is about.
Profile Image for Carrie Honaker.
Author 2 books9 followers
November 4, 2021
Loved this book! Kirshner takes readers along with her as she learns wood turning, gardening, rice growing, sake making and many other Japanese arts during her time in Yamanaka. The appreciation of tradition and generational knowledge show in each chapter. At the sane time things are changing. Women are accepted as duck hunters; Kirshner is allowed into Matsuura’s sakagura to learn the art of sake, a space reserved for men. Kirshner shows how traditional arts can be brought into modern times with inclusivity while still maintaining the essence of the Japanese spirit. This book is a beautiful tribute to Japan’s ingenuity and respect for the land.
Profile Image for Hanif Salim.
91 reviews1 follower
April 15, 2021
This book had made me fallen in love with Yamanaka. Such a calm and soothing read. Hannah is blessed to be able to experience and immerse in the culture, sights, sounds and taste of rural Ishikawa.

Hannah's account on her experiences made me appreciate nature and the hard work of the people of Yamanaka - not just of its years old tradition but also the dedication and the spirit to keep it alive.

I hope that in the near future we can see Yamanaka alive again. Thank you Hannah Kirshner for sharing your experiences with the world.
Profile Image for Elisabeth.
1,562 reviews
June 8, 2021
This book was a sumptuous feast to read and enjoy. Hannah Kirshner weaves together her experiences in a subtly ethereal but realistic way, giving each person and aspect of the mountain town of Yamanaka their respect and due. Her descriptions are delightful and she even includes recipes she's learned over the course of her time living and working there. I can assuredly say I have fallen in love with Yamanaka and with this magical and beautiful book.
Profile Image for Brandur.
300 reviews11 followers
October 3, 2021
Excellent. Most "foreigner in Japan" books largely involve around pointing out the idiosyncrasies of Japanese society along with the odd ways foreigners are treated. There's some of that here too, but the lion's share of the book involves rare glimpses into active involvement in ancient Japanese crafts — charcoal firing, duck netting, woodworking, sake brewing, and more. Getting access to these relatively closed groups isn't easy, so this sort of account of these experiences is far from common.
Profile Image for Avi.
558 reviews7 followers
January 11, 2023
A must read if you have an interest in cuisine, craft, farming, nature or Japanese subcultures.
232 reviews4 followers
May 15, 2024
A meditation on craft, what is preserved and what changes, the benefits of slowness and learning to make trays, lacquerware, sake, and to grow and gather local plants. The book is interspersed with recipes and delicate, thin-lined drawings by the author. It does what I imagine it set out to do: makes readers yearn for slowness, old ways, new friends, travel to Japan. I learned a lot, and though I couldn’t keep track of the many names of characters that passed through Hannah’s time in Japan, I understood the wordless connection she gained with so many by demonstrating interest in their dying arts. There is a warmth to this book, as Hannah acknowledges the many kindnesses and welcomes that allowed her to access so many cultural experiences and get to know the land on such an intimate level. She broke a lot of gender barriers like working in the sake brewery and hunting for ducks with nets with the old boys club and joining the ancient mountain men on their adventures. At times she mentioned harassment (mostly from the duck hunting crew) but mostly it sounds like she made many platonic friends who were generous hosts to Hannah as a foreigner.
Profile Image for Nicole.
848 reviews8 followers
October 9, 2022
I’m very picky about books set in Japan. Having lived there, it’s very easy for me to tell when an American is writing about the country as if they are the first to discover it or are taking it upon themselves to teach everyone about their heretofore unknown discoveries. This book had exactly the right tone. Kirshner understood where she fit into society as a foreign woman and was aware of that double edged sword. She also wrote about beautiful but under threat craft in Japan in a way that respected it but didn’t idolize it, and she didn’t rage about the changes that have happened in the countryside. There were times when her writing style felt a little undeveloped, but overall I really enjoyed this book.
Profile Image for Lauren.
303 reviews4 followers
February 17, 2023
Closer to 3.5 stars for me because I struggle with non-fiction books and I wish this book had been a tiny bit shorter. With that said, Kirshner did a wonderful job describing and explaining life in Tamanaka, Japan. I learned about a handful of crafts and skills that I never would have learned about without reading her book. She has such an eloquent and beautiful way of describing the smallest detail. Her observation skills are on point. Anyone who reads this book will be inspired to be more present in daily life, to explore nature, to appreciate one's home more, and to try a new hobby!
Profile Image for Zeryck Russon.
36 reviews
March 4, 2025
I think the main thing I took away from the book was that anyone who is a master of anything pays attention to the details. They love the details. The small insignificant things that may not even occur to others.

This book inspired me to look at the details in my own life. It inspired me to show love to my crafts through action and attention.

Wonderfully written and very well explained. Love this book.
Profile Image for Summer.
577 reviews
February 1, 2022
definitely immersive, with a lingering pace and attention to small but meaningful details. This felt like a soothing (handmade, locally sourced) balm for the stress of modern life.
Profile Image for Stephen.
12 reviews1 follower
December 22, 2023
Picked this up randomly off the shelf at the library … probably in my top 3 favorite books I’ve ever read.
Profile Image for Catherine.
21 reviews3 followers
February 5, 2025
I could say so much and not enough 🥹

I found this deeply beautiful
Profile Image for Bee Evans.
269 reviews2 followers
January 20, 2024
Beautiful writing. I particularly loved the chapters on sake making, working in the sake bar, foraging, and woodwork. Makes me want to visit Yamanaka, and find similar creative endeavours closer to home.
Profile Image for Justine Anweiler.
97 reviews5 followers
December 3, 2023
Oh no, I wrote a beautiful and lengthy review, full of inspiration and flattery, but it didn’t save 😭.

Needless to say, I love(d) this book and it has reminded me of what I truly love and how/when I feel most alive. Thank you Hannah for writing it ☺️🙏🏼
54 reviews
February 1, 2022
We read this book out loud. I liked the view into Japanese culture and art forms. I want to go visit old Japan now!
Displaying 1 - 30 of 103 reviews

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