Ghosts of Cape Sabine: The Harrowing True Story of the Greely Expedition

by Leonard F. Guttridge

The ill-fated 1881 effort to establish an American fort in the Arctic is chronicled in full detail, covering the terrible saga of starvation, mutiny, suicide, shipwreck, execution, and cannibalism that devoured nineteen of the original twenty-five explorers. 40,000 first printing.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Survival, Adventure, American History, Biography, Historical

354 pages, Hardcover

First published February 7, 2000

Reviews

[Amerynth · Rating 1 out of 5]

Unfortunately, I found Leonard F. Guttridge's "Ghosts of Cape Sabine" too poorly written to enjoy. This should have been a great, epic tale of the Greeley expedition's misfortunes while spending years exploring the arctic. The story itself is fairly dramatic and interesting-- there is plenty of source material to make this a story worth telling.

Under Guttridge's pen, the story is extremely difficult to follow and unskillfully woven. (I defy you to find a paragraph in this book that does not mention at least three different people... it just becomes a confusing jumble of names all to frequently.) I found myself skimming and skipping page after boring page before I finally put down the book for good.

I love a good arctic (or antarctic) exploration story... there are tons of great books out there focused on the trials and tribulations of different expeditions. Unfortunately, this is not one of them.

[Straw · Rating 2 out of 5]

got this from Jess' dad....arctic expedition gone wrong, but a true story. It was boring as hell and should have had at least 100 pages chopped out. Read the fictional Terror. It is much better.

[Unwisely · Rating 3 out of 5]

Okay, this is another gripping tale of arctic exploration and the race for Farthest North. This time it's an American expedition. They have the usual logistical, weather, and leadership problems that seem to plague most of the expeditions, combined with political dithering and flubbed rescue attempts. Pretty exciting stuff...except the dry-as-dust narration manages to suck most of the excitement out of it.

It's not that it's not well-researched, because it is, it's just that there are some really big questions hanging over the story - the journal that mysteriously gets from arctic Canada to the Mississippi river is mentioned, then dismissed with "and no one knows how it got there". (Minor spoiler ahead.) The bodies were found mutilated, it's pretty clear there was some cannibalism going on, and although the author mentions that there was a scandal at the time, everyone involved denied it, and the author pretty much leaves it at that - he makes no attempt to explain it.

So, not great, but by no means bad. If you're into arctic exploration books, add it to your list. If you're not, I would start elsewhere. (Say with Pierre Berton, _Arctic Grail_.)

[Chris · Rating 4 out of 5]

All in all a great book if you are interested in the history of arctic exploration - I had never heard of the Greely Expedition before. The author was obviously painstaking in his research, but in my opinion the book could have been much shorter. Especially the detail leading up to the launch of the expedition. I agree with the other reviewer who said it was difficult to keep all the names straight at times.

[William · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great adventure and human folly story

[David · Rating 3 out of 5]

Quite an amazing story and account of what happens when people are pushed to their limits in the frozen arctic. I am amazed at how long some of the crew survived and what made them survive!
Alot of historical research was done making this book an interesting read

[John Reid · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sometimes it's worth going back to read about past events to find out how they relate to others more current. This is the reason I've sought out a book from 20 years ago and spent the past few days reading it. The book, Ghosts of Cape Sabine, relates the tale of a tragic Arctic exploration from the 1880s. Amazingly, despite the traumas brought about through poor planning and poor execution, most of the scientific data collected are proving useful now in helping establish how our climate has changed over the past century and a bit.

It was a farce from the start, but one with a tragic end, something almost more devious in many ways than the mind of Terrance Dicks (recently deceased long term writer/script editor of Dr Who) might have devised.

Captain William Howgate and Lieutenants Adolphus Greely and Fred Kislingbury had worked together establishing a telegraph system to provide communication through much of the western United States. Greely was keen to head an expedition into the Arctic, accompanied by Kislingbury and a crew of 25 other men. Howgate had the connections to get a bill before the House of Representatives seeking funding. It passed in 1877 but was then stalled in the Senate.

Great bungling followed, with funding finally available for rushed preparation to charter a ship and get under way in Summer 1881. Despite a late start in the season, the expedition managed to get itself established on Ellesmere Island. In the meantime, Howgate did a disappearing act, charged with embezzlement. Soon after arrival on the island, petty issues between Greely, in command, and Kislingbury found the latter effectively persona non grata and banned from taking part in the work of the expedition.

Absurd delays, many due to lack of funding availability through further government bungling, meant that relief ships arranged to take provisions in 1882 and 1883 failed to manage the task. The balance of the story relates the privations suffered by men their country left to their own resources, and the final rescue of the handful of survivors. It is a harrowing tale.

My interest in rereading Ghosts of Cape Sabine was to remind myself of the importance we can now attach to the work done by the fateful expedition. I was again impressed by the story and its scientific outcome. It has similarities in the hardships faced to many other tales of (Ant)Arctic exploration/expeditions, not least those of Scott and Franklin. If you can find a copy, it's well worth the read.

[Anson Cassel Mills · Rating 3 out of 5]

Leonard Guttridge (1918-2009) published several non-fiction books about nineteenth-century seafaring and exploration, and in this one he did a fine job of assembling scattered sources for a history of the Greely expedition, especially the diaries kept by expedition members.

Unfortunately, Guttridge has a cast of characters almost uniformly anti-heroic: torpid, irresponsible, irrational, immature, and consumed by petty bickering. Adolphus Greely (1844-1935) seems to have had a genuinely useful career both before and after the Arctic episode that made him famous. But once the story reaches the ice, it’s hard for the reader to decide whom he dislikes most: Greely, the pig-headed commander; his second-rate and nearly mutinous party; the inept and unlucky attempted rescuers; or the woodenheaded bureaucrats back in Washington D.C.

The book might have been tightened up a bit. For instance, the posterior protection in which the bureaucracy seemed to be eternally engaged could have been presented more succinctly. Also, there’s a flatness to the characterization that seems especially surprising considering all the scribbling going on while the party starved to death.

[Walt · Rating 4 out of 5]

In my view, the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition is the worst polar venture ever attemped. You have to have a very strong heart to read it all. When in the last part of the book, you just wish God the misery those men lived will be over shortly. You find yourself hurrying the relief ships to arrive.

What those poor men experienced was intolerable, and the author puts it cleanly on paper.

So, yes, Shackelton's Endurace voyage, Mawson's forced solo march without food in Antarctica and the Robert Falcon Scott tragedy were horrible, but no so horrible in my mind to what A.W. Greely and his men went through.

Weak heart, stay away from the book.

[Brian · Rating 3 out of 5]

I liked this book, sort of as an exercise in schadenfreude. Dude had no idea what he was doing and ended up dooming his entire party, surviving the last few months by basically hiding in their tents. Ghastly.

[Frederick Bingham · Rating 3 out of 5]

The story of the Greely expedition, sent to the arctic for some obscure purpose in the late 19th century. Most of the members of the expedition ended up dying. The survivors had to eat the dead to survive. This is what happens when you send stupid people into a potentially dangerous situation.

[Kelly · Rating 2 out of 5]

This took way too long for me to read. The story of the expedition built for 200 pages before anything "exciting" (read horrifying)actually started to happen.

[Marnie Z · Rating 2 out of 5]

This sounds like a really interesting story but I found the way it was being told to be boring, didn't finish....

[Pat MacEwen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'd be surprised if there aren't ghosts at Cape Sabine! The Greely Expedition came to a grisly end there after 3 long years in the Arctic, largely abandoned by the government that sent them there. Their mission was part of the very first International Polar Year in 1881, though it wasn't called that until the third one came together decades later. Their path took them north along the western shores of Greenland, all the way up to the westernmost tip of Ellesmere Island, while the expedition collected meteorological, magnetic, mapping, and other data, along with biological and geological samples. You don't hear much of it now but Greely's group surpassed a Farthest North British record that had stood for 300 years. This in spite of opposition on many fronts, including Robert Todd Lincoln, son of President Abraham Lincoln and Secretary of War at the time. The original plan called for a yearly relief ship to brave the ice floes and deliver supplies, mail, and equipment to Greely's base in Lady Franklin Bay. But neither the first nor the second efforts was led by men with any Arctic experience and one ship was crewed by sailors still wearing tropical gear! Both failed, one ship sank, and Greely, left incommunicado, decided to walk home. Well, by walking, sailing, rowing, steaming, floating on floes, and man/dog-sledding. But supplies caches weren't planted as ordered, and by the time the third year's relief ship found them, only 6 out of 25 men were still alive. Stranded on the cape, they burned their sleds for heat and ate leather thongs, sealskin pants, bits of moss, tiny 'shrimp' that were actually sea lice, sea birds and their own shoes. In the end, they ate each other. This book is rather a slow read, but gives a full and detailed description of the politics, the conditions, and the personalities involved. Recommended if you are at all interested in polar exploration and the extremes human beings can be driven to by dire need.

[Mark Lawry · Rating 4 out of 5]

The entire book you're thinking this guy was an ass who got a bunch of guys killed. In a later army that would have pretty much ended the career of an LT. Yet he went on to be the chief of the Army Signal Corps as a Brigadier General. Later made Major General. Earned the Medal of Honor for a lifetime of service.

Looking at some of the other reviews I see there are some harsh critics out there. A bunch of guys got stuck way up north in a cabin for about 720 days. To be honest, I'm impressed Guttridge was able to take this event and put such an interesting book together.

[Keith A. · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is absolutely harrowing at times. I came across it at a book sale and it sounded interesting. Having been above the Arctic Circle in my travels, I was drawn to the title. It describes a polar exploration that went wrong in so many ways. Without introducing spoilers, suffice it to say that they don't all make it back home. The only criticism is that it dwells a bit too much on the political and governmental wrangling that took place with plans of sending supply ships. Great maps of the route included. For anyone interested in exploration of the far north (and there have been many), this is definitely worth it.

[Ben Rocky · Rating 4 out of 5]

yet another reminder that Ernest Shackleton was an incredible leader

[MaggyGray · Rating 4 out of 5]

Mit mehreren Unterbrechungen heute in der Mittagspause zu Ende gelesen.

Mein Faible für Reiseberichte aller Art konnte auch dieses Buch bedienen, auch wenn ich es mit einigen Unterbrechungen lesen musste, und das lag nicht an den Unmengen von Namen und Personen, die mich irgendwann nur noch verwirrt haben.

Letztendlich geht es um eine amerikanische Polar-Expedition unter der Leitung von Adolphous Greely - man möchte die Briten überholen, die den (bis dahin) nördlichsten Punkt in der Arktis erreicht haben (leider ist in meinem Kopf untergegangen, von wem und wo genau). 1881 wird ein Schiff gerüstet - die Protheus - es läuft aus und macht sich auf den Weg von Neufundland aus in den hohen Norden, vorbei an Disko durch die Melville Bay bis nach Ellesmere Island. Dort wird in der Lady Franklin Bay das Lager zum Überwintern aufgeschlagen: Fort Conger. 24 Männer bleiben dort zurück (während die Protheus wieder nach Hause fährt) um zwei Jahre lang naturwissenschaftliche Forschungen durch zu führen. Nach einem vorher ausgetüftelten Plan sollte 1882 ein Versorgungsschiff Nachschub an Lebensmittel, Medikamenten, Kleidung und andere wichtige Dinge liefern; sollte dies nicht möglich sein (zugefrorene Wasserwege), dann 1883, sobald die Fahrrinne passierbar ist.

So weit so gut.

Im Fort ist man mehr oder weniger guter Dinge. Man geht seiner Arbeit nach, man gibt und nimmt an "Unterhaltungsprogrammen" teil, es gibt zu Geburts- oder Feiertagen Extrarationen und/oder Alkohol. Doch schon da kommen die ersten gereizten Resenntiments ans Tageslicht: Befehle werden teilweise oder ganz verweigert, man ist dem Kommandanten gegenüber respektlos, es wird degradiert, unter Arrest gestellt, bestraft, ab und an auch befördert. Als weder 1882 noch 1883 Nachschub eintrifft, befiehlt Greely, ebenfalls nach Plan, das Lager aufzugeben, und nach Süden zu wandern.

Sowohl von Greely als auch von anderen, früheren Expeditionen, wurden Caches angelegt, in denen sich Proviant, Material und Aufzeichnungen befinden. Auf diese Caches spekulieren die Männer der Greely-Expedition, und darauf, dass sie von einem Schiff aufgenommen werden, wenn sie erst einmal in der Nähe von Littleton Island (schräg "gegenüber" liegt Kap Sabine) sind, denn bis dahin bleibt das Wasser eher offen, während weiter nördlich auch das Packeis immer fieser wird. Für die damaligen Schiffe gab es in so einer Situation kein Durchkommen.

Doch irgendwie geht alles schief. Die Mannschaft schlägt auf Kap Sabine ihr Lager auf, können aber nicht nach Littleton Island - auf der Proviant gelagert gewesen wäre - da das Eis zu dünn ist, um sie zu tragen, die Eisschollen aber ein Befahren mit einem Boot unmöglich machen. Die Vorräte gehen aus, die Männer werden nach und nach immer schwächer und sterben einer nach dem anderen. Als ein drittes Rettungsschiff die Mannschaft endlich erreicht, sind noch sieben am Leben, von denen einer auf der Fahrt nach Hause auch noch verstirbt.

Das Grauen, im ewigen Eis fest zu sitzen (dann auch noch in der monatelangen Polarnacht), nicht die leiseste Ahnung zu haben, warum die vereinbarten Schiffe nicht kommen und ohne die geringste Möglichkeit ein irgendwie geartetes Lebenszeichen zu geben, war für mich bei diesem Buch so spürbar, dass ich es beispielsweise abends im Bett (dunkel!!) nicht lesen konnte. Der Autor zeichnet ein so lebendiges Bild und schreibt so spannend und voller Emotion, dass ich mir einmal sogar meine flauschigen Hüttenhausschuhe anziehen musste (Ende Juli!), weil ich den Polarwind regelrecht gefühlt habe. Vielleicht habe ich mich auch ein bisschen zu sehr reingesteigert, das kann schon sein, aber ich habe mit den Männern der Expedition mitgefiebert. Sehr tragisch war der erste Tote auf Kap Sabine, William Cross, der zwei Tage vor seinem Geburtstag stirbt und extra für diesen Tag "Brotkrümel zum Feiern aufbewahrt hatte".

Dieses Buch hätte volle Punktzahl verdient, wären da nicht, wie schon erwähnt, die vielen vielen Namen, die ziemlich verwirren, sofern man kein fotografisches Gedächtnis hat. Vor allem die Verwicklungen, die dazu geführt haben, dass die beiden Versorgungsexpeditionen, aber auch die Rettungsmission nur schleppend angelaufen und dann teilweise gescheitert sind, spricht Bände über starre Bla-Bla-Männer, die vor allem ihren Kopf durchsetzen wollen, anstatt auf logischen Schlussfolgerungen aufbauend, konstruktiv werden. Um dies zu beschreiben, verwickelt sich Guttridge teilweise in ellenlangen Beschreibungen von Minister X, Y, Z, über Kongressabgeordnete A,B,C, dann gibt es Offiziere, Generäle, Laufburschen, Anwälte und und und. Das hat den Lesefluss dann ein bisschen holpern lassen, aber dafür verflogen die Beschreibungen im ewigen Eis wie im Flug.

Absolute Leseempfehlung von mir!

[Dennis · Rating 4 out of 5]

While the book was not spellbinding from cover to cover, it offered an interesting insight into the tragic Greeley expedition that set a record for treking the furthest north, thus taking the record away from Britain. What followed their stay in Fort Conger, the northern most outpost, and their trek south to ultimately be rescued on Cape Sabine led to controversary and recriminations. While Greely may have been considered a good leader, his lack of knowledge of the Arctic contributed to the large loss of life of his party. I would recommend reading the book for the value of learning more about early Arctic expeditions and the hardships endured while trying to travel the furthest north and ultimately reach the North Pole. I have read plenty of books on Arctic and Antarctic exploration and would rate this accounting as one of the best.

[William Battersby · Rating 4 out of 5]

A well written account of a truly terrifying but relatively little know event. Having eery parallels with the Franklin Expedition, a group of US servicemen were left in the high Arctic with ample supplies and every convenience of modern (late nineteenth century) live. We watch them as, through a series of coincidences, ll of this is gradually stripped away and we see them left desperate, starving and freezing. Most died and the rescue of the few survivor seems like something out of the Arctic version of 'Lord of the Flies'.

Strange also how the survivors simply went back to their prior lives.

This should be required reading for anyone interested in Exploration, and especially for anyone looking for insights into what the latter stages of the Franklin Expedition my have been like.

[Jeanne · Rating 4 out of 5]

Twenty-five men led by Greely set off to the North Pole for a science expedition that is slated for a year of study that turns into three years of frozen hell and starvation. The U.S. government had a lackluster interest in funding the research to begin with, and then less so after completion of the first year. Left with provisions for a year and then stretching into three miserably frozen years, pretty much gives you the scope o their miserable existence. Compounding the disastrous expedition was the decision to leave their fort (in small boats) to reach a destination closer to a rescue point where they had no cover, no wildlife, no vegetation and little hope for a rescue. It seems the U.S. government had a penchant for ignoring the value of science going back centuries.

[Ethan S · Rating 4 out of 5]

Guttridge tells the story of an Army expedition to the High Arctic in 1881 to set up a scientific monitoring station as part of a world wide polar scientific study. 21 men arrived at Lady Franklin Bay, only 6 would return home 3 years later. The story is a fascinating counter example to the later expeditions of Shackleton, Amundsen and Scott. Greely was an Army Signal Corpse Officer, who had no naval or Arctic experience and with the exception of his surgeon, none of his men did. Greely was also not a natural leader or men, but he and his men struggled together through immense hardships and deprivations. This is a tragic story but one worth reading.

[Tom · Rating 4 out of 5]

Considering several other polar exploration stories I've read that devolve into struggles for survival this tale shares some common elements, i.e. inadequate funding, lack of political support, last minute changes in leadership, logistical errors and of course poor communication. An additional complicating issue is the misappropriation of funds associated with the program. Considering these problems it's a wonder that anyone made it back to civilization.

I found the writing somewhat awkward but it's a good story. If you like reading about people living in and dealing with hostile conditions this is for you.

[Eric · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellent account of an Arctic expedition gone horribly wrong. The author includes not just the grisly details of the expedition itself, but the political fighting in Washington and the two failed relief attempts. The times, names and faces may change, but politics will always be politics and, like the poor, will always be with us.

[krin · Rating 3 out of 5]

Last year I read North by Roger Hubank, a fictional account of the Greely expedition. Afterwards, I wanted to read an historical account of the Greeley expedition. In this book, I learned more about problems with the first two relief attempts. I liked Guttridge's detailed end notes describing the sources from institutions such as the National Archives and the Library of Congress.

[Barb · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a breathless story of adventure and tragedy! Another story of Arctic exploration that makes you wonder why powerful people are often so myopic and foolish. Well-written, historic, and amazing.

[J. · Rating 2 out of 5]

depress me more please. Excuse me while I eat my shoelaces.

[Beth A · Rating 4 out of 5]

Amazing, true story of survival in the Artice in 1818. An ill-fated voyage.

[Rick]

Very well done, interesting insights on the Greely Expeditions

[Ruth · Rating 4 out of 5]

really 4.5 stars--so interesting