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Desi Delicacies: Food Writing from Muslim South Asia

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A delectable anthology of food writing exploring the histories and cultures of Muslim South Asia. Contributors include Nadeem Aslam, Rana Safvi, Tabish Khair, Annie Zaidi, Sarvat Hasin, Tarana Husain Khan, Sadaf Hussain, Rosie Dastgir, and others.

The kitchen is often the heart of South Asian homes. Muslim South Asian kitchens, in particular, are the engines of an entire culture. The alchemy that takes place within them affects nations and economies, politics and history, and of course human relationships. There is proof of it in Desi Delicacies, Claire Chambers’ anthology of essays, stories and recipes supplied by some of the region’s most well-loved writers, historians and chefs.

An unexpected revelation awaits Nadeem Aslam in a London restaurant as he yearns for a special delicacy from Pakistan. Rana Safvi recounts the history of Awadhi cooking and the origins of qorma, while Sadaf Hussain tells us how the samosa came to be paired with chai and of his own newly found love for the beverage. Tabish Khair examines our attitudes towards food that is ‘jootha’. Death comes with an aftertaste of taar roti for the protagonist of Tarana Husain Khan’s story set in Rampur. Gulla puts his heart into making the perfect nardoo yakhni but is taken aback by a hairy surprise in Asiya Zahoor’s ‘The Hairy Curry’.

A multitude of flavours blend with love, joy, grief, regret and nostalgia in this book which is not only a beautiful collection of food writing, but also a rich helping of the histories and cultures of Muslim South Asia and its diasporas.

With a Foreword by Bina Shah and an Afterword by Siobhan Lambert-Hurley

The cover image is a painting from the Nimatnama, a collection of recipes partly compiled during the reign of the moustachioed Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din of the Delhi Sultanate, who features on the cover.

Unknown Binding

First published December 21, 2020

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Claire Chambers

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Displaying 1 - 17 of 18 reviews
Profile Image for Sayantoni Das.
168 reviews1,572 followers
January 8, 2021
It's an anthology of food writing from Muslim South Asia. The cover is a total bliss to look at, and honestly it was the first thing that had attracted me. But beauty steeped in deeper than I had expected.

This book has stories and essays, and the essays are nothing short in comparison to the stories. They evoke a sense of belonging, nostalgia and reminiscence of old and forgotten traditions associated with food, family and eating. I also learnt some real time facts about old food origins and history.

Food brings together different people, infuses a more syncretic culture. And as Editor Claire Chambers writes in 'Introduction', communal eating is indeed a superb way of evading the barriers of caste and religion.

And one of the best perks of reading this book is that there are authentic and delectable recipes at the end of every chapter.

I'm so full with warmth and ebullience right now that I can't possibly express. If there's one book you should read this year, it may as well be this one.
Profile Image for Madhulika Liddle.
Author 22 books547 followers
March 4, 2021
A Bangladeshi family gets together to observe the chollisha, the fortieth day after the death of a beloved grandmother. A young woman, daughter of a man who sold sweets, remembers her father—with barfi. A man, recovering after a soured marriage and much angst, goes to his mother in an old age home, taking for her curd rice and mango pickle. In Rampur, a Sayedani, a woman descended from the Prophet, performs the pre-funeral ablutions for an old woman and waits for the taar curry and soft roti that is a must at such funerals. Another woman cooks for the spirit of an old relative on Shab-e-Barat.

The fiction half of Desi Delicacies: Food Writing from Muslim South Asia is largely tied to stories of loss, of people dying, people moving on, people moving away. Some die; some, like Raman’s mother in Farahad Zama’s But There Are Angels, are there mostly only in body, their minds having wandered away. Some are mere memories, and live on thus in the lives of those they leave behind. Some leave behind pain, others relief. All, however, connect to those they leave behind with food. There are stories here of people cooking that which the one gone loved, like Zulekha’s barfi in Uzma Aslam Khan’s The Origin of Sweetness or ilish pulao in Mahruba T Mowtushi and Mafruha Mohua’s Jackfruit and Tamarind. Or there are people, like the Sayedani, remembering the taar-roti because He once smuggled some out for her…

There are happier, lighter stories too, of which Asiya Zahoor’s The Hairy Curry is a delightful (but still thought-provoking) look into a teenaged servant’s cooking of nadroo yakhni, the Kashmiri dish of lotus stems in yoghurt gravy. Or there is Aamer Hussein and Sabeeha Ahmed Hussein’s What’s Cooking?, with its orange-peel zarda.

This is just the fiction half of this fascinating book; the first half is the non-fiction section, which consists of nine essays on Muslim South Asian food and cooking. While some of these are memoirs, like Nadeem Aslam’s The Homesick Restaurant, about the Pakistani diaspora connecting to its homeland through food, or Annie Zaidi’s Chewing on Secrets, others take different routes to travel the route of Muslim cooking. Historian Rana Safvi discusses the historical aspect of this food in Qissa Qorma aur Qaliya ka, while Tabish Khair, in his insightful Jootha draws a parallel (or not) between Dalits eating the jootha of upper castes, and old Muslim servants eating the jootha of those they served. Kaiser Haq’s Alhamdulillah: With Gratitude and Relish is a very interesting insight into Bangladeshi cooking, which marries the more well-known Muslim food of India and Pakistan with typically Bengali elements and ingredients. And Sanam Maher’s brilliant essay The Rise of Pakistan’s ‘Burger’ Generation shows how fast food, in the form of the burger, was brought to Pakistan and how it helped define a certain class and style.

Each essay and each story comes with its own (connected) recipe. There are simple, everyday recipes here, for comfort foods like khichri and maleeda. There are grand recipes, for dishes you would perhaps make only for a festive occasion, like the Rampuri taar curryor the tehsildari qorma. There are pickles and pulaos, burger patties and kanji: dishes widely removed from each other, and yet all in their own way a part of Muslim cooking from South Asia.

Highly recommended, not just for the food angle of it, but to get a glimpse of what it means to be a Muslim from South Asia.
Profile Image for Dharini.
168 reviews11 followers
April 5, 2021
I bought Desi Delicacies having mistaken it for a cookbook, hoping it would help me expand my limited repertoire in the kitchen. What I found instead was a stunning collection of essays and stories, bursting with evocative descriptions of not just food, but its incredible role in our lives. The book uses food as a vessel for religious teachings, communal spirit, and sensitive reflections of feminism, caste hierarchies and the denudation of traditions that have been deeply entrenched in the Muslim South Asian community and its diaspora.

At the end of each piece in this anthology is a carefully curated recipe, often one that has been passed from generation to generation. Especially interesting are those recipes that have transformed over the years and after rubbing shoulders with other cultures and geographies. The comparisons between kheer and phirni, the addition of potatoes to samosa, the replacement of beef with Hindu-friendly meats - the links between the Muslim South Asian community and others in the subcontinent are subtly explored and humorously explained.

The tone of each essay and story is different. Some are unapologetically nostalgic, written in remembrance of a dying family tradition or long lost family member. Others are written with one eye firm on the future, the tone and its attached recipe having evolved considerably from the past. Some are contemplations on the world we live in, and how food ties into it. Perhaps my favourite was Jootha by Tabish Khair, which sought to explain that strange, intangible yet firmly embedded concept that exists in the minds of most, if not all, middle class, upper caste Indians. He described its origins in the caste system, and drew a fascinating comparison between subsequent generations of Muslims and their adaptations of it. His juxtaposition of the two vastly different connotations of jootha - on the one hand signifying pollution, contamination; on the other, being used as a parallel for the greatest love - was poignant and wonderfully insightful. And it was only one of many such accounts in the book.

Desi Delicacies reads authentically and beautifully, making you ache for community and tradition, especially in the isolation of a pandemic. I highly recommend this book, not just to read, but to keep.
Profile Image for Blatantly Brown.
106 reviews48 followers
June 8, 2023
I loved this book. This would go into my pile of one of my favorite books of 2023 easy!

Desi Delicacies is a short story collection divided into two parts. The first half is essays and the second half is stories. Essays being shorter, easier to grasp and read, come with a recipe in the end that is briefly mentioned in the story itself. Stories were slightly longer, complex in nature and could not hold my attention for long, hence the 4 stars instead of five.

Desi Delicacies takes us into the lives of muslim south asia and their love for food. One thing about south asians is that we love to create connections around food, feed the ones we love and attempt to put at least one warm meal in our bellies even when our lives become too hectic. I know I do. Through these stories, you learn not only about the art of cooking but the importance of certain foods, how food has changed with the times, the many variations of our beloved recipes and the core memories attached to those recipes.

This is a perfect book to read if you enjoy cooking and the joy that comes from hosting people and building connections, with food at the center of those connections. Even for those who just want to know more about south asian cuisine, this book offers not only heart-warming stories but also recipes that have been in families for generations. If the stories don't do it for you, the recipes surely will.
Profile Image for Sreya Mukherjee.
126 reviews7 followers
April 29, 2022
Desi Delicacies: Food Writing from Muslim South Asia, as the subtitle of the book indicates, it deals with the South Asia Muslim food culture. South Asia is a diverse region, so much so that it's hard to find an absolute 'commonality' even among the communities, be it Muslim community, Dalit community, Brahmim community, etc. Hence, though the book restricts itself only to the Muslim food culture of South Asia, yet the book doesn't become a monotonous drone, for there are striking variation within the food culture of Muslim community depending upon the sub-region where the community is located. For example, Bangladeshi food culture is completely different from the food culture of Pakistan. Moreover, one must not make the mistake of homogenizing the labels of 'Pakistani' or 'Bangladeshi' food culture. There are rich variations within the seemingly homogenous label of South Asian Muslim food culture, which is wonderful captured by this anthology.
This book is divided into sections, namely essays and short stories, both dealing with gustatory memories of the authors. There is also a strong presence of the South Asian Muslim Diaspora's culinary experience. To be honest, before reading this book I didn't see food as an essential component of our culture, heritage and identity, but reading this book has completely altered my perspective on food. I must say that this book has broadened my horizon not only about food but also about the cultural heritage of Muslim community, and I am grateful for that. I am also glad that I read this book in the Islamic holy month of Ramzan, which is indeed a happy coincidence.
Though overall I enjoyed the book, but there are some chapters that I enjoyed more than the others, and some that I like less than the others. Among the essays, I especially liked 'Paye, Pressure and Patience: Life in Pakistani Cooking' by Sauleha Kamal and 'The Rise of Pakistan's "Burger" Generation' by Sanam Maher. Among the stories, I enjoyed 'Aftertaste' by Tarana Husain Khan and 'The Night of Forgiveness' by Farah Yameen. A story that I didn't like at all was 'The Origin of Sweetness' by Uzma Aslam Khan. I thought the author was trying too hard to attain an aesthetic effect but as a consequence, the story became too artificial and also pretentious.
Nevertheless, the book leaves a nostalgic, comforting aftertaste in the readers' pysche. It was an enjoyable read, and also I loved the cover art of the book. Perhaps, the beautiful, medieval style cover art is the reason why I found myself attracted towards this book in the first place. Who knows? But all I can say for sure is that the book certainly didn't disappoint me.
My rating: 4 ⭐
Profile Image for Vivek Mahapatra.
43 reviews1 follower
April 18, 2021
I remember reading an article that described the history of a group of nomadic people as they made their way across Eurasia, the story was lost in terms of recorded texts or memory but preserved in the DNA of their descendants. I suppose we could have gotten to it another way as well. Food weaves in our stories, of where we come from and who we are, and who we might become. I love the essays in this book, as they reflect on the changes that the authors have seen in their lifetimes. The food of today hints at traditions and stories of ages past and embodies them forward.

The Homesick Restaurant keeps hope that our past endures, even when transposed to the most unfamiliar of places. Qissa Qorma aur Qaliya ka is a wonderful depiction of how our personal food history weaves into a pattern that can stretch back as far as we dare to look, spanning connections to kings and emperors. Alhamdulillah is a fascinating look into Dhakai cuisine, something I've lived on the fringes of, and yet somehow never come across. The essay about the Burger generation is a beautiful bite sized biography of a people in the midst of change. Chewing on secrets is especially relatable, capturing the aura of all those meals shared with the extended family where recipes and tips are shared. Stone Soup is where I see myself dipping a hesitant toe into cooking. High on chai and samosa is just revelation after revelation about a staple that is far more recent than I would ever have imagined. My favorite is Jootha, a wonderful essay that captures the contradictions within us, that still suspend us from the past that we have changed to the future we want to change into.

The stories reflect on some of the same themes, and extend them as only fiction can.

This book is a delicious meal, and I for one, can't wait for seconds.
Profile Image for Aarti Krishnakumar.
85 reviews7 followers
December 30, 2025
I recently read Desi Delicacies as part of a book club pick , and it was such a heartwarming, delicious journey through food, memory, culture, and identity.

This book isn’t a novel — it’s an anthology of essays and short stories from writers across Muslim South Asia and its diasporas, all centered around the foods that shape their lives and communities. Every piece blends personal memory with culinary culture, and at the end of each chapter there’s a real recipe to try yourself — so you feel the stories as much as you read them.

What I loved most was how the book shows that food isn’t just about flavours — it’s about family, belonging, heritage, love, and even loss. Through these voices you taste history as much as you taste biryani, chai, kanji, ilish pulao, and so much more.
If you’re someone who believes food tells stories — and that culture, memory, and meals are inseparable — then this book is a must-read. I honestly think everyone should read it (and maybe try a few recipes too)!
Profile Image for Akshay Gupta.
104 reviews
January 6, 2026
Desi Delicacies by Claire Chambers is a love letter to Indian sweets, written with the patience and generosity that good mithai demands. Chambers reminds the reader early on that “Indian sweets are rarely rushed; they reward those who give them time and attention”, a line that quietly sets the tone for the entire book.

Recipes unfold alongside reflections on why desserts matter so deeply in Indian culture. Not just as indulgences, but as markers of celebration, prayer, grief, and togetherness.

The book shines in its selection of classics like Kaju Katli, Besan Ladoo, and Rasmalai, each introduced with context that goes beyond technique. Chambers notes that “a mithai recipe is often a family heirloom, altered slightly by every kitchen it passes through”, encouraging readers to cook with confidence rather than fear of imperfection. This philosophy makes Desi Delicacies feel both grounding and freeing. It is a book that understands sweets as emotion made edible.

Perfect for anyone who believes that sugar, when handled with care, can carry memory, identity, and joy on a single spoon.
Profile Image for Aami.
4 reviews
October 22, 2022
Food in literature to me was occasional articles I read in magazines or Sunday supplements.( let's not forget the wonderful literature pieces or the relationship Hercule Poirot had with food etc.. )

Even then, writings on the food of Muslim South Asia is a new experience. Bookstagram got me into this latest book I read, Desi delicacies. Edited by Claire Chambers, it includes essays and stories from various writers, each ending with a recipe. The personal connection people have with food and difference in food culture and habits is intriguing. Although I wish it had included more south and east Indian food culture, this book is still a treasure, to read, to re-read.
Profile Image for Ambica Gulati.
111 reviews26 followers
March 20, 2021
It’s more about preserving a culture and keeping the tasty dishes alive. The Rise of Pakistan’s ‘Burger’ Generation by Sanam Maher is quite an interesting read. And I revived my love for the black carrot kanji after going through the recipe by Rosie Dastgir. Jackfruit with Tamarind by Mahruba T. Mawtushi and Mafruba Mohua is another story that I would love to read again. The good part is that each story is complete in itself, which means that you can read them after an interval also. And accompanied by recipes means you get to try new dishes too.
Profile Image for Sujata Rajan.
Author 1 book25 followers
March 23, 2023
This is one of the most riveting and delicious books on food that I’ve read in a lifetime of reading. A very easy read with short chapters, I took time to savour each line, each word. I’ve learnt much about South Asian Muslim cuisines, ingredients and culinary processes as well as customs and rituals from this book.The foods described sounded so delicious and mouth watering even though they included many items such as fish and some meats that I do not eat. Looking forward to more such books!
Profile Image for Aamna.
62 reviews1 follower
Read
May 3, 2025
I'm not going to rate this because I didn't finish it. I think only one essay really stood out to me and I couldn't figure out what it was about the rest that irked me until it finally clicked: the romanticization without the acknowledgement of the purely patriarchal and unforgiving lives our mothers and their mothers led. This romanticization has become so tired to me and rings so hollow.
Profile Image for Joseph.
187 reviews1 follower
April 1, 2024
Not one of the better food books I have read.
Profile Image for Hadi.
9 reviews
October 31, 2024
food & literature; a combination that signifies me & this account, is what this collection of essays & stories is all about. food for me has always been a source of comfort & pleasure, & if there's some authenticity to the commonplace jokes around Punjabj Butts/Bhatts & their gluttony, you can say its consumption of food is part of my DNA.
but food is also about memories; like I remember the parathas lavished with desi ghee that my Nanni used to make during sehri time & everyone used to regard them 'katcha' & imperfect but i still missed eating them. similarly, no one could ever make channay ke daal like her. or the dhai bhallay & imli ke chuttni recipe of my khala that i also have tried to master. or the chicken biryani i made back in college; it wasn't perfect & i saved the coveted leg piece for a crush & till date my friend tease me over it. or the amazing moong ke daal that i haven't eaten before but when a dear friend made it, i devoured it. or how COVID forced me to make food, which isn't what i like to do, but have nevertheless done, out of personal necessity or on the insistence of loved ones. i think cooking comes from your heart & tasty food is the result of just love (& practice, off course). this is why even if you make a single dish hundred times, its taste may vary.
reading this amazing collection was a heartfelt experience as it explores food, festivities & emotions in a beautiful manner. moreover, there's a recipe at the end of every piece of writing, which is impressive.
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