Edith Head is a legend in the Hollywood film community. As the doyenne of the costume department of Paramount Pictures, and later designing for Universal Studios, she's credited with outfitting the stars of myriad motion pictures over the course of her fifty-year professional career, and accrued a record eight Academy Awards for doing so. Among her more celebrated assignments were dressing Barbara Stanwyck in Double Indemnity, Ingrid Bergman in Notorious, Bette Davis in All About Eve, Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard, Elizabeth Taylor in A Place in the Sun, Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday and, one of my favorites, Grace Kelly in Rear Window. (She was, in fact, Hitchcock's favorite designer and worked on the lion's share of his films.)
At the time of Edith's death in Los Angeles, at the age of eighty-three, she was in the midst of working on her autobiography. A number of interviews had been recorded by journalist Norma Lee Browning, though the project did not go forward with her. Instead, Dutton's senior editor chose Paddy Calistro, a fashion writer, to complete what would come to be called "a career biography." While it contains long passages of Head's verbatim recollection, the chronological structure, supplemental interviews and cultural perspective are largely Calistro's own. The sheer volume of Head's sartorial output would make this a daunting enterprise under ideal conditions, and it pains me to report there wasn't a whisper of hope for those here. Calistro, as it turns out, is not all that fond of Edith Head and, guess what? It shows.
To be fair, Ms. Head is another one of those reclusive artistic personalities whose penchant for personal privacy, evasion and misdirection makes her a difficult subject to get to know; harder still to get a firm emotional fix upon. She seems, at least to me, to be very much like Patricia Highsmith in this regard - earth-shaker by day, fringe-dweller by night. And like Patricia Highsmith, she's going to have a great deal of trouble finding the right biographer. You just can't escape the fact that people like this require a higher level of compassionate commitment, even if all (you tell yourself) you plan to handle is the professional side of the life. Newsflash: In individuals of this particular psychological stripe there is no such distinction.
The quoted passages in Edith's own voice are downright intriguing (and solely what my rating is based upon). She seems by turns petty, pragmatic, cynical, dynamic, and desperate for control. And how fascinating is that? As a woman who clothed her first film star in 1924, who carved a place for herself - and kept it - in a male-dominated industry throughout the course of two World Wars, the Sexual Revolution, the struggle for equal rights and so much more? I don't care how hard that shell is to crack, the story's going to be worth it. Hopefully I'll be around these parts when it finally gets told.