Travels in Taiwan: Exploring Ilha Formosa

by Gary Heath

The island nation of Taiwan is perhaps best known in the West as one of the Asian tiger economies and cold war hotspot. It is seldom highlighted as a tourist destination. At the time of first writing, it was long-time resident Gary Heath’s novel concept to explore Taiwan in depth as a non-specialist yet serious observer. This third edition of his classic Travels in Taiwan is a timely reminder of democratic Taiwan’s stunning scenery and rich culture. On six separate and arduous trips the author deliberately headed for the areas neglected by other travel journalists in a singular feat of endurance and sustained curiosity. The engaging and lively account of his solitary journey abounds in descriptions of local geography and wildlife, and includes numerous encounters with Native (aboriginal) Taiwanese people.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction

356 pages, Paperback

First published March 17, 2009

Reviews

[Charles M. · Rating 4 out of 5]

Overall, the book offers a great deal of insight into Taiwanese society, history, culture, as well as its island's scenic geography, to someone like myself who knew absolutely nothing of the place beforehand. For instance, it was very disturbing and revealing to learn about the nuclear industry and its commercial development on the island. I had no idea about the official government silence about the extent of domestic housing contamination from the widespread use of hazardous, radioactive building materials. Just as disturbing to learn was the oppression and cruelty of the majority of Taiwan's population toward the ethnic, indigenous minorities. I was amazed to learn about a rebellion led by one indigenous tribal leader that led to a massacre brought about as an emotional reaction to this abuse. Another aspect of the island's history one learns was the horrific abuse of the American prisoners of war there by their cruel Japanese captors during World War II and the efforts to commemorate their sacrifices by some of the survivors. It was also quite revealing to learn about the tragic yet inexorable loss, or at least weakening and deterioration, of indigenous language and culture there. Unlike most travel books published in the U.S. that just are basically reviews of the hotels, restaurants, and tourism destinations for every place to visit, this is a true, peripatetic, descriptive Odyssey undertaken by an adventurous and inquisitive Westerner on a very Oriental and remote island, written from the involved perspective of a plein air watercolor artist, totally immersed in the moment of the process of traveling.

--- Charles M. Phillips, St. Petersburg, FL 33713, USA

[Tenma · Rating 5 out of 5]

“Travels in Taiwan” is a fantastic book and a must read for anyone who is either interested in exploring rural Taiwan or wants to learn more about the cultural norms of modern Taiwan aborigines (natives).

Gary Heath was an English Teacher and a long-time resident of Taiwan, who also happened to speak Chinese. He embarked on a six-month mission to explore the mountains and rural regions of Taiwan and its satellite islands. His trip was divided into six segments, each covered in incredulous detail in separate chapters. For each trip, Gary described the route he took, his mode of transport, the weather, scenery, points of interest (and tourist traps), and most interesting, the people he met along the way. His backpacking journey was mostly on foot, with occasional hitchhiking. Most of the trips were on mountain trails, which cover a large swath of Taiwan. It is there where he met many Taiwan aborigines. His exploration of their living habits, dwellings, and villages makes this a lovely social study as much as it is a travel memoir. Every now and then, Gary also provides snippets about Taiwan’s modern history or bits about prominent historical figures, when appropriate, which made it a very education read as well.

Anyone contemplating a hike around Taiwan will find this book invaluable. A downside is that detailed maps were not provided. Therefore, to benefit, the reader should have a handy map to mark Gary’s trip while reading the book. It is also worth noting that the romanization of city and town names in this book is vastly different from what you will find in modern maps. Nonetheless, a casual reader or anyone interested in Taiwan, its geography and history, or its native tribes, will find this a joy to read. Also note that the major urban areas (the city of Tainan, perhaps, being an exception) were not explored. Therefore, those looking to read about urban living will be disappointed.

[Ron Brown · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ilha Formosa is Portuguese for “beautiful Island.”
I travelled to Taiwan early in 2016. I had searched the Internet for some travel books on the country. Unfortunately Gary Heath’s book arrived after I had left for Taiwan. On my return to Australia it took me sometime to getting around to reading the book and what a marvelous read it is.
Gary lived in Taiwan for many years. He worked there as a teacher and had a Taiwanese girlfriend. He is fluent in Mandarin and he has a great love and respect for Taiwan and its people, especially the descendants of the indigenous people.
The book is the outcome of six trips that Heath did around Taiwan. He travelled by train, car, (mainly hitch-hiking) bike and his favourite mode, foot. He met many, many locals and he deliberately sought out the people who belonged to the tribes who have inhabited Taiwan for centuries.
Prior to my visit to Taiwan I had been oblivious to the fact that Taiwan had an indigenous population prior to Chinese settlement. I had also been unaware of the tyranny of the Chang Kai-shek regime.
One part of the book that I identified with was his climb of Yushan (Jade Mountain) the highest mountain in Taiwan. Yes it is a bureaucratic nightmare getting a permit and it is a difficult climb. I had been in Malaysia some weeks before and had slipped in the shower and broke a toe. Even two weeks later it was uncomfortable and with the slip of the foot downright painful. I reached Paiyun lodge late in the afternoon. Had a restless sleep and woke at 3am to the beating sound of rain. I set off for the summit in miserable conditions and like Heath I decided it was not worth it and turned around. It rained all through the descent. Reading Heath’s account gave me some solace.
Heath gives illuminating descriptions of the people he meets and the places he visits. I appreciated the warmth and integrity of his comments about these people and places. Too often travel writers have a “noble savage” view of the locals and a superior righteous view of any others they meet. Heath is honest in his accounts and is no way superior to anyone he meets.
Gary Heath is the type of traveller and observer of humans that I aspire to be.
If you have not been to Taiwan I suggest you seriously consider a visit. It is a vibrant, dynamic and welcoming democracy. (With a fabulous coffee culture.) It has diverse and exciting cities and natural attractive wilderness.
I am now searching for Gary Heath’s other travel book, “West of Arabia: A Journey Home.”