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Holding Fast: The Untold Story of the Mount Hood Tragedy

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A journey of adventure, tragedy, love, and loss on the summit of Mt. Hood. In December 2006, millions of people across the world prayed and waited in anguish to learn the fate of 3 climbers trapped on Mt. Hood. The worst storm in the last decade was pounding the mountain with hurricane-force winds that would not permit the army of rescue workers to do their work. No one below could forget the last phone call Kelly James placed to his wife, telling her that he was trapped in a snow cave just below the summit. What happened next would change the lives of everyone involved and deeply touch millions of people who desperately hoped to see a Christmas miracle. For more than a week, the search dominated the news as family members huddled below, praying for the climbers' safe return. But the story did not end when Kelly James's body was airlifted off the mountain and the cameras stopped rolling. For Karen, the year after Kelly's death was spent searching for answers to what really happened on the mountain. In this journey of adventure, tragedy, love and loss, she reveals never-released information about the fateful climb and behind-the-scenes details of how the family coped with the shocking news.

256 pages, Hardcover

First published November 11, 2008

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Karen James

46 books2 followers

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 51 reviews
Profile Image for Kris Madaus.
33 reviews5 followers
March 10, 2010

I had followed the Mt. Hood tragedy when it happened, but I never really found out what really happened. Since I love reading climbing books (and I love actually climbing), I had high hopes that I would find out "The Untold Story of the Mt. Hood Tragedy". I was certainly wrong. I expect most climbers would agree.


First of all, I rarely rate a book less than 3 out of 5. I am not trying to be judgmental or insensitive. The back cover of this book simply didn't match the contents or I never would have purchased it. This book is a story about a wife that lost her husband. It is about the anguish she felt and the methods she used to cope with it. There is nothing wrong with that. However, only about 25% of this book is actually about the Mt. Hood tragedy, and 0% of the book gave me any new information ("The Untold Story") about what actually happened on the mountain. For that, I feel misled before I purchased this book.


It is also useful to know that this book is undeniably a Christian book. Again, there is nothing wrong with this, but it was not represented that way before I purchased it. I am an atheist, and I don't generally choose to read Christian books simply. I am not afraid of them, not do I avoid them altogether. I just can't relate to their logic. And in fact, this has nothing to do with logic. It has to do with faith, as the author repeatedly stated.


I understand the desire to make sense of such a tragedy. If I lost my wife, I don't know how I would be able to continue. But I certainly would not make up fairy tales to cope with it. It simply wouldn't comfort me because the explanation could only survive in my head. This will not make any sense to a "believer", so I'll stop there.


When I realized this was a Christian book, I decided to continue reading anyway. But about halfway through the book, I reached an offensive paragraph that grinded on me for the rest of the book. It probably shouldn't have, since it was so blatantly incorrect. The author stated how empty she felt after losing her husband, and her friend responded by saying (paraphrasing) "that's how people feel everyday of their lives when they don't have faith in god". That seemed unnecessary. It's certainly not true. There is something wrong with this.


As an atheist, I guess that I feel the same power, mystery, "energy", and vibrancy of life that they think they feel because of god. The bad things are there too, as they are with all humans, but I get the same satisfaction knowing that good and bad things happen with or without a god. There are no reasons, so it can't be interpreted as payback or "god's testing me" or "god must have a reason". Things happen because we are alive and conscious of that happening. Isn't that what you would expect out of a world without a guiding god?


This book seemed like a way the author (a former news reporter) could talk about her tragedy, not her husband's. In fact, the book didn't even mention what might have happened to the other two climbers. Didn't they ever find their bodies? Didn't they have a story in "The Untold Story of the Mt. Hood Tragedy"? Apparently their story died the second her husband died.


So I wouldn't recommend this book. There are many others that contain more of a story, more adventure, more inspiration. Ms. James comes off as an amateur writer, struggling to get something off her shoulders. I admit that I have never endured what she has gone through, so who am I to talk. But this is a review of her book. There are many reasons to read: entertainment, education, inspiration. I think this book missed the mark on all levels. I do hope Karen James is comforted knowing that people like me hope she gets past the pain and can live in the happy memories she has of her husband instead.

Profile Image for Debbie.
376 reviews
January 5, 2014
A very nice girl bought me this book for Christmas. She knew that i enjoyed outdoor adventure stories such as "Into Thin Air" and thought I would like this book. Unfortunately, this book isn't really about mountain climbing, it is about the wife of a climber who sadly died on Mt. Hood in Oregon. The loss of Mrs. James husband is a tragedy and I do feel badly for her and her family. I strictly write my reviews for me, so that I can remember what thoughts my reading inspired, so even though I feel like a terrible person, I have to admit that this book inspired me in ways that can definitely be perceived as mean spirited.

Mrs. James tells her husband's story in a strangely self-focused way. The other two hikers fate is glossed over. Very little attention is given to Mr. James children who also suffered a loss. It seems like on every page, Mrs. James has to remind us that she is an accomplished artist and was also a TV news reporter. Strangely, she also seems to feel that rescuers and news reporters on Mt. Hood should care more about the lost hikers because they are "all-American boys." This sentiment is repeated several times in the book. I would hope that news reporters and rescue workers would do everything to have a successful rescue whether or not the boys were "all-American." I also found it odd that Mrs. James looked toward public relation specialists as soon as the hikers went missing. I'm thinking most regular Americans would not do that.

Mr. James youngest child was only 12 years old when this tragedy happened. Very little is said about his feelings on the loss of his father. The other children are only mentioned briefly. The children's biological mother is never mentioned. I wonder what Mr. James was thinking, doing such dangerous hikes when he still had a young child dependent on him.

This book is a Christian book. I don't usually read Christian literature, but I wasn't bothered by that. I was surprised that Mrs. James Christian faith seems so inwardly directed. I would think as a good Christian she would focus on others. After she found out that her husband had died on the mountain, she and her family immediately went home. It appeared that she wasn't very concerned about the other two families who still hadn't learned their loved ones fate. I would've liked the story better if it had focused more on the hikers and what happened on the mountain and less on Mrs. James.
Profile Image for Angela Martin.
48 reviews2 followers
August 1, 2018
Interesting and sad book. Should definitely be advertised as Christian literature given that God and the author’s religion is a good 60-70% of the content.
Profile Image for Ursula Johnson.
2,030 reviews20 followers
December 9, 2024
Heartbreaking Tale of a Climb Gone Wrong

This is the story of the aftermath of three climbers who perished while attempting a summit of Mount Hood in Oregon, as told by the widow of the only man whose body was found. The author describes her late husband's youth and their meeting, along with his lifelong love of climbing and his faith. Faith plays a large part in their lives and it is frequently mentioned.

What was supposed to be a quick climbing trip with 2 friends turned into a desperate fight for survival. Only Kelly's body was found, the other two were never found. All three were experienced climbers, but it should've been known that weather would be rough in winter in December. The author describes how her family and faith helped her overcome this difficult time in her life. She includes photos and shares personal letters and poems.
170 reviews
February 8, 2016
Ehhhh. It was OK. Author is a PR specialist, and so can put a sentence together, but not well enough to hold my interest for an entire book. Much of it read like journal entries. The subject is different--what is the story of a mountain tragedy when the heroes don't live to tell the tale? The thing is, lots of stories of grief are out there, and are much more provocative, and better written--see Joan Didion's Year of Magical Thinking. The special hook of this one is that it's a mountain story, but the most interesting people are the ones who died. So I guess I'm saying, if you want a good grief story, read Didion; if you want a good mountain story, read Krakauer's Into Thin Air.
Profile Image for Dale.
476 reviews10 followers
August 19, 2017
Triumph, Tragedy, and Faith

In December of 2006, three friends vanished when a snowstorm struck while they were climbing Mount Hood. For days the families stood vigil and prayed for their survival and rescue. One of the climbers, Kelly James, had been injured and was alone in a snow cave near the summit. He was able to have one final phone call with his wife and family before his phone went silent. Knowing something of his position, rescue worked to reach him. Before they could find him, Kelly died. His two companions, Brian Hall and Nikko Cooke vanished and were never found.

This is the story of three experienced mountaineers and close friends who in spite of all their skill were unable to defeat nature gone awry. The best-laid plans and the dedication and skill of these people who dare to challenge mountains and win can be instantly undone when sudden storms, avalanches, icefalls, and whiteouts leave them powerless and alone.

It is the story of brave rescuers risking their lives to help others. Although Kelly and his friends perished on Mount Hood, they were not abandoned to fate. Hours were spent in snowstorms and all kinds of weathers by rescuers genuinely concerned with bringing the climbers home alive.

It is also the story of faith under fire, the gathering together of people to pray for three men many of them had never met. It is a tale of the sorrow and crisis of faith brought on when a loved one dies and you just don’t understand how God allowed that to happen. Above all, it is the story of how Kelly’s wife and children held onto their faith through it all.

Karen Kelly writes a firsthand account of the unfortunate circumstances that lead to her husband’s death, the pain of parting, and the triumph of faith over heartache and despair. It is a fine read for persons whose faith is being tested by circumstances beyond control. The insight into the power of family and friends’ support; how prayer brings people together; and how it is possible to move forward positively after heartbreak is a guideline with which everyone can identify.

My condolences go out to the families and thanks to Karen Kelly for sharing her testimony. I gladly give the book five stars!

Quoth the Raven…
Profile Image for Jean Dupenloup.
475 reviews5 followers
April 20, 2020
A decent read and of special interest to me as someone who’s climbed Mount Hood.
The story exudes pathos: Kelly James, an all-American climbing badass, is stranded in a snow cave high on America’s favorite mountain, his two companions missing. To make matters worse, a massive storm rolls in.
His wife (Karen James, the author) and children are left behind. Their last interaction with Mr. Kelly is a haunting phone call as he slowly dies huddled in his snow cave.
It has all the makings of a classic account of tragedy and resilience in the mountains.
Here’s the problem.
The James’ are debout Christians, and I mean devout...as in: Mr. James and his pals say a prayer before every climb. This perspires into the narrative. Mrs. James’ insistence on viewing EVERY LITTLE THING about this ordeal through the lens of her faith, while obviously disturbing to an atheist such as myself, really precludes her from injecting the book with any type of depth or insights.
How do you deal with this tragedy? God. Why was Mr. James taken? God. How will you go on? God.
It’s hard to be mad at someone trying to grieve any way they can, but I think life (and death) is just a tad more complicated than that.
My heart goes out to Mrs. James for her loss...from everything I’ve read in the book, Kelly James was a great guy.
But if you’re looking for an insightful book about tragedy in the big hills, keep on climbing.
267 reviews
October 5, 2022
So, I got what I needed from reading this book. I remember watching the tragedy unfold in December 2006. I remember spending the anniversary of my father’s death, glued to the tv waiting for updates. A few weeks ago, I randomly thought of Brian and wondered if they had found Brian and Nicco in the 16 yrs since the tragedy. Sadly, they have not yet been found.

I pray for their families that they find the strength to continue living and enjoy the life they are left. These three kind, loving, adventurous men would want them to continue enjoying life to it’s fullest. I remember Brian from our days at UConn, there was something special about him for sure. I am glad to have gotten a glimpse into some of his friendships through this book and to learn the current theory of how Brian, Nicco and Kelly died on Mount Hood.

The writing is clear and straight forward, an easy read. Karen James uses her talents as a reporter to share the story. She courageously shares her journey of grief, faith and acceptance while coming to terms with a personal loss that many may never face. It was reassuring to read that the rescuers and other experienced climbers felt the three did all they could to survive the situation they were in. Thank you Karen James.
Profile Image for B. .
410 reviews3 followers
March 26, 2020
A love memoir of sorts with a bit of facts and truth thrown in. I had never heard of this tragedy, but upon reading the back cover was hopeful of an interesting and insightful story.. It was more of speculation and scavenger hunting pieces of an untold story together. A love story as told by the surviving wife of the adventurous soul Kelly James, as he perished on a cold, lonely mountain... She recaps the events of their life together. I wish it had more of the facts and the actual story of what happened, vs speculation. But, seeing as the members of the story are not alive to tell how it actually happened... We get this. It was an ok book. I was saddened for her loss, thought very little of her for not waiting at the mountain until the other deceased members were found, felt she was a bit selfish in the writing of this book. So I can't recommend to other readers.
Profile Image for Monica Willyard Moen.
1,381 reviews31 followers
October 31, 2017
This is a beautiful story of love, laughter, Hope, tragedy, and peace. This family’s journey wasn’t what they expected, and God met them at the point of every need. This story reinforces my belief that while we don’t understand God‘s timing on things, he is always present with us, always loving us, and always providing for us in the best way according to his plan. Now if I could just understand that plan…
4 reviews
October 31, 2023
I find myself drawn to mountaineering books. It was a very fast read for me. I liked the chronological detail, which others didn’t like. Everyone is different. The author calls on God throughout the book to get her through. The story could not be told without it. If this turns you off, then select a different book. If not, you will discover the pain of grief and her method of recovery. As a widow myself, I understand the different stages she experienced.
145 reviews
October 30, 2018
Beautiful tragedy

This was a beautiful love story wrapped in tragedy and surrounded with God's love. Karen James told her tragic love story with beauty and grace. I would recommend this book to anyone who asked the question, "Why do bad things happen to good people?"
Profile Image for Judy.
31 reviews
May 3, 2019
Not being a natural risk taker, I could never understand why anyone would want to risk their life for adventure. Now I do. Kelly James was daring but not foolish. Thank you, Karen, for sharing your personal story. You have strengthened my faith. A great love story.
37 reviews
July 23, 2021
Very good read

It's a very interesting story that is well written and makes reading the book enjoyable and something to continue learning the details.
Profile Image for Bryan Clagett.
10 reviews2 followers
August 10, 2025
A sad tale of mistakes. Vivid recollection of the search is overshadowed by the author’s thoughts on faith.

A true story.
Profile Image for Bryon.
79 reviews4 followers
December 10, 2012



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How one woman held on to her faith after her husband's tragic death

In "Holding Fast for Purpose," Karen James tells the story of losing her man to a mountain. Kelly James was a man's man; a follower of Jesus; a lover of life; a godly dad and hopeless romantic. He was a 25-year veteran mountaineer who had straddled the world's most famous summits. But the final peak swallowed him whole and refused to give him back.

In her book, Karen shares her desperation as a rescue operation is mounted to find her husband and climbing partners Brian Hall and Jerry Cooke while lost in the decade's worst storm. The climb up Mt. Hood was supposed to be a practice run for a future trip to Mt. Everest. Despite their skill, expertise and meticulous planning, when man is pit against nature, nature doesn't throw in the towel. Nature does what nature will do and usually gets the last word.

However, the James family is not without faith or hope. As the family told about their faith on national television and of the prayers from which they drew strength and hope, a nation was inspired to mobilize. Volunteers pitched in and resources from all over the country appeared daily to aid in the search for the three lost men. The support was unprecedented.

Even so, Karen hit a wall in her faith.

"I painfully spoke out and asked God, 'Why did You do this? I prayed so hard, and I believe in You. Did you forsake me?'" she writes in her book. "The emptiness was unbearable, and I felt totally lost."

Ultimately, Kelly's frozen body was found in a makeshift snow shelter carved out near the summit of Oregon's Mt. Hood. As hypothermia brought on by subfreezing temperatures and hurricane force winds took his very life, Kelly spent his final hours alone in silent darkness.

The father of four children, Kelly started out his life in a violent and abusive home. When he was only 2 years old, his mother fled the scene, leaving her angry, abusive husband.

But, miraculously, Kelly and his older brother Frank had a love for God at a very young age.

"For them faith was not reserved just for Sundays, and they regularly stayed up late into the night and debated theology in a most adult way," writes Karen. Kelly and Karen attended Fellowship Bible Church of Dallas.

Karen shares with readers that she was afraid of really jumping in with both feet with God. She felt it would cost her something more than she could give – and then she lost her husband.

But she wisely reminds readers that "He decides how, when and what we will have to face in life."

God's purposes bring great reward, but often at a great cost. True faith takes passion and pain, strength and sacrifice. But that's the only way to fully experience an abundant life.

About faith, she concludes, "How do people get through even one day without God?"

She tells her story thoughtfully, giving readers a vantage point to observe the challenge of her faith and the triumph of her husband's.

"After Kelly's death, I went in search of everything that he had ever written to me. … While reading his writings, I noticed that in the majority of them, I was not the sole character. That had never been apparent to me before. Kelly also included his love for God. There had always been three of us in this love affair," the author discovered.

Even though the book begins at the end, "Holding Fast" also shares the triumphant story of life after death.

http://goodnewsfl.org/christian-news/...
Profile Image for Elizabeth A..
320 reviews30 followers
May 1, 2010
Though their time together didn’t start until somewhat later in life and was cut tragically short, it is clear that Karen and Kelly James were soul-mates who were simply meant to be together. Holding Fast is the story of Karen’s and Kelly’s lives together, culminating with the recounting of the tragic climbing accident on Mount Hood that took the lives of Kelly and his two climbing partners. Though the outcome of the true life events that are the subject of this book are known going in, that in no way detracts from the power of the story.

The outpouring of support, both from rescue personnel and those offering prayer and emotional support, was overwhelming and heartwarming to read about. Because Kelly had a cell phone, Karen and the rescuers were able to have intermittent contact with Kelly and knew, for the most part, exactly where he was on the mountain. Unfortunately, extreme weather conditions made it impossible for the rescue team to mount a successful ascent to Kelly until it was too late.

Karen’s recounting of the phone calls she was able to have with Kelly while he was trapped on the mountain are brutally honest and reflect the conflicting emotions she had while doing so; blessed to be fortunate enough to have an opportunity for a last goodbye, yet devastated to hear how clearly he was struggling and deteriorating, both knowing he would not be coming down off the mountain alive.

It is truly ironic that Karen’s great-grandfather, George William Barrett, also died in a climbing accident, something she didn’t know until after Kelly’s death. However, unlike her great-grandmother who “died of a broken heart” six months after Barrett’s death, Karen called on her faith to get her through both the harrowing days spent trying to rescue Kelly and the void left when he died. Her story should serve as an inspiration for all those who’ve lost someone under tragic circumstances.
Profile Image for Erin.
3 reviews3 followers
February 17, 2009
Since I live in Colorado, I often hear of tragic stories around climbing expeditions but I've never heard one that impacted my life as greatly as this one. Back in 2006, Kelly James and two of his close climbing buddies attempted to summit Mount Hood during one of the worst storms of the winter season. Karen James, Kelly's wife, was left waiting to hear back from her husband to contact her about their progress but little did she know that her last phone call from him as he was in a snow cave would be the last time she would hear his voice.

Many of us vaguely remember seeing this story on television but as I learned more of Karen's story of faith, I was struck by how much she leaned on the Lord during this time of waiting. Karen, along with many others, waited for days as the rescue teams attempted to find the three men. As the reports bombarded each of the family members with questions, all of them kept praying and believing that God could give them the Christmas miracle that they were looking for.

Even though that Christmas miracle wasn't given to them, Karen was able to grow in her faith in a way that many of us don't get to experience every day. It's during those moments when we don't think that we can make it any further that we find ourselves in the palm of His hand, which is where Karen stayed for many months following. I've found myself in that same place recently when I found out that I was diagnosed with MS. And the most beautiful thing about being in that place is that God's comfort, peace and love flow freely to those that are will to trust Him enough to let Him have control.
Profile Image for James E. Robinson, III.
22 reviews
January 11, 2009
Disclaimer: i received a copy of this book from Thomas Nelson Publishers for review.

This book was a surprise. When the preface tells you how the story ends (yes, i know the title has tragedy in it, but i had not actually heard of the story -- i generally don't watch the news), it leaves you wondering how the rest of the story could be engaging. Wow, was i wrong.

Karen James walks you thru the period before the tragedy and after in a manner that is interesting and even suspenseful. As the characters are introduced, you are given enough of a glimpse into the their character, personality and relationships that you can understand the bonds that tie them together.

As the clues are unraveled, you are drawn into emotional moments; however, unlike other books i have read of late, the text is clear, concise and to the point. This book could have easily been a 600 page bore-fest (i.e. wouldn't have been published).

This book was a fast and interesting read; your time will be rewarded.

James' Rating: 5/5
Profile Image for Michael Brown.
185 reviews6 followers
April 18, 2009
This is a GREAT book. I don't remember hearing about the Mount Hood Tragedy. And to tell the truth I was skeptical if I would even like reading this book. The question to was -- would it be to emotional and uninteresting and such.

But, when I started reading this book I got hooked really quick. Karen James is a phenomenal writer. While reading this book you know what the end result of the mountain climbing of Kelly, Brian, and Nikko but not all the background or who they were. Through Karen's book you get to know Kelly, Brian, Nikko, and all of the people involved in this tragedy.

While I read this book I was hoping God would filp the script and I would find out Kelly, Brian, and Nikko made it. The greater story or lesson of this story is that of 3 Christ loving men who loved life, family, and friends. And how they touched the people around them and still do.

I cannot recomend this book more highly.
Profile Image for Kasey.
280 reviews
February 27, 2009
I saw an interview with the author on line and was really touched by how collected she was. You could tell she truly loved her husband and the friends involved in the tragedy, and since I see Mt. Hood almost everyday I wanted to hear the entire story. I remember the newstory during the search and as the author noted it really seemed like the entire state was pulling for a Christmas miracle.
I think it took me a day and a half to read the book, with Gord & Ash giggling at my river of tears. You definately need to have a case of kleenex with this one. But hearing of their true love and deep faith you know in your heart that these people are going to be okay and as son Jack says, "You know since I am only twelve, I don't want to die right now. You know I am not afraid to die because I am so excited to see Dad."
6 reviews
December 9, 2010
I borrowed this book from a friend after watching Karen speak at a conference in Seattle. I read it in one setting. She had me in tears during her talk about her journey during and after that tragedy on Mt. Hood. I remember that well, checking CNN.com several times during the day for updates on the missing climbers. It is clear that Kelly and Karen were soulmates, such a moving story, so much love. I was mostly intrigued by Kelly's love for mountain climbing, made me smile when I read one part in the book where he planned a Friday night dinner with friends and a "movie". Turns the "movie" was about tying climbing ropes. Love it! It's almost like dragging my husband to a movie about running marathons on our date night! Great read.
Profile Image for Lauralee Bliss.
Author 47 books178 followers
January 27, 2011
It is hard to imagine the awful circumstances Karen James was forced to endure at the loss of her husband in a climbing accident on Mt Hood,but she has done well portraying it in this book. I liked very much how she wrote about the incident. The first part deals with the unending rescue and painful wait. The second part is the loss itself. And lastly, she paints a picture of what she believes happened during Kelly's days on the mountain. But what I found inspiring was her spiritual insights. It's hard to comprehend how one can continue in their faith after enduring such a terrible event and loss of a beloved spouse. But Karen's enduring faith is the real triumph over this tragedy and something I'm sure her husband would be proud of.
Profile Image for Kathy.
570 reviews12 followers
December 29, 2009
Karen James' husband Kelly died on Mt. Hood several years ago when he & his climbing companions were caught in the storm of the decade. It was spiritually uplifting to me to read Karen's honest account of her pain while still maintaining a strong faith in God and His plans for her life. Karen's skills as a former journalist make this a very well written book and it was interesting to see how she felt being on "the other side" of a media firestorm while reporters literally camped out near Timberline Lodge for rescue updates and wanting statements from the families.
Profile Image for Susan.
873 reviews50 followers
December 3, 2015
The parts of the book about the actual rescue attempt were interesting, but most of the book was about the love story between Karen James and her husband Kelly who was lost on Mount Hood a few years ago. It seemed more a christian inspiration book than a book about climbing. Since Karen was not on the climb, everything in the book about the climb is reconstructed from what the rescuers on the mountain found. It's a borrow, not buy book for me. I suspect I would have liked it more if I were still a practicing christian.
5 reviews
October 12, 2010
This was a heart felt story written by Karen James that puts you right there with her and the family through the devastation that they have to encounter. when reading this book I felt as if I was there holding her hands. I had the opportunity to see and hear Karen speak at the Women of Faith Conference this year and it was truly a blessing. Get this book and hear the story of the love of her husband and family.
Profile Image for Joshua Lake.
101 reviews5 followers
September 10, 2016
You can find my full review at Quieted Waters.

Holding Fast is the true story of a wife’s anxiety, agony, and faith as her husband was stranded and eventually killed in a mountain climbing accident on Mt. Hood. A trip, planned to last 2 days, turned into days of anxious trepidation for the family of Kelly James as he did not come down from the mountain.

Profile Image for Cheryl.
136 reviews10 followers
October 20, 2010
I attended the Women of Faith Conference this year in southern California, Karen James was one of the speakers. A friend was moved by her story and bought the book. Holding Fast tells what things were like between Karen and her husband, moutain climber Kelly James, What happended on Mount Hood and how she dealt with the tragedy.
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