The table is a meeting place, a gathering ground, the source of sustenance and nourishment, festivity, safety, and satisfaction. A person cooking is a person giving: Even the simplest food is a gift.
Occasionally details date this 1992* book, e.g. how unhealthy eggs are. But overall, Colwin's writing is timeless and enduring. I love her. Though our lives are/were (she, 48, didn't wake up one October day in 1992) different in context and culture, her themes of cooking, reading, writing, family, and community are practices I cherish.
She writes about reading and I purr (not even a feline aficionado) as I vow to reread all of Barbara Pym.
Basically, all I ever do is read. I read about monastic life, polar Eskimos, arctic travel — I have no interest in ever going to the Arctic, by the way, and as I am not Christian, I can never enter a monastery — and I read English novels. One of my favorite novelists is Barbara Pym, who is an underrated writer, like Jane Austen. Everyone things she's just darling, but she is not just darling, she's really tough. One of the great things about Barbara Pym is that the food in Barbara Pym is just wonderful.
Colwin is Queen of zingers.
Black beans are the frazzled person's friend.
Biscuits are the utility infielder of the culinary world.
What is good for Mrs. [Edna] Lewis is good for the nation, in my opinion.
A world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without violins.
Lentils are friendly — the Miss Congeniality of the bean world.
It is amazing how many adults loathe beets - although puréed, strained beets are a staple in the baby-food industry.
Added to the riches of Colwin's prose, are the resources she recommends: cookbooks by Elizabeth David, Marcella Hazan, Edna Lewis, Sylvia Thompson, Jane Grigson, Margaret Costa, John Thorne, and Madhur Jaffrey. A hemisphere of food writing awaits.
The recipes look lovely, but so far they have nourished only my spirit.
*I chuckled at this: If I had a dollar for every time someone said to me "I don't have time to bake bread anymore," I would be as rich as Donald Trump used to be.