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Waves and Beaches: The Powerful Dynamics of Sea and Coast
The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea
First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves.
This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book’s relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima.
As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves.
This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book’s relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima.
As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
400 pages, Kindle Edition
Published March 16, 2021
101 people are currently reading
457 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 27 of 27 reviews
October 19, 2021
According to the book’s Preface, generations of scientists, surfers, and sailors have used Willard Bascom’s 1964 classic, Waves and Beaches, or its 1979 second edition, to understand the behavior of water waves and beaches. Growing up 1000 miles from the nearest ocean, I was not among those readers. However, I now live on an island along South Carolina’s Atlantic coast, and my interest in ocean science has climbed sharply.
Bascom was not an academic scientist, but a marine engineer, oceanographer, and adventurer whose enthusiasm for the science was communicated through his writing. He passed away in 2000, and decades after the second edition, Kim McCoy and Patagonia (the American outdoor clothing and gear company) have published a third edition. McCoy has added an update of nearly half a century of oceanographic science, the evolution of instrumentation, and a description of planetary climate change – while preserving a substantial portion of Bascom’s original text. I should mention that this edition also includes some stunning photography.
Unfortunately, I found the merge of two purposes and styles to not be smooth. On the one hand, it is a science and engineering text, giving equations of idealized and observed ocean behavior. On the other hand, it is also a treatise on global climate change and environmentalism. In particular, in the opening chapters, the climate change topics seem simply inserted, when the overviews might have been wholly re-written. Especially irritating was the insistence that climate change be considered a literal wave. The very first sentence of the book defines a wave to be “an undulating form of energy propagating through a medium,” The human-caused component of climate change we are experiencing at this time involves transition of the ocean, permanent or temporary, but it is not that kind of wave.
Compare for example, the analytical style for both idealized and realized waves: (unfortunately square root and other symbols may not display correctly on goodreads):
Wavelength L =( g/2π)T² where g is gravitational acceleration, T is period.
In real oceans of Earth, using metric system, L=1.56 T².
Wave velocity “celerity” C = ((gL/2π)tanh(2πd/L)) where d is water depth.
Convenient approximations are used:
• d/L > 0.5 is a deep water wave, tanh(2πd/L) is nearly 1, so C = (gL/2π)
• d/L < 0.05 is shallow water wave, tanh(2πd/L) is nearly 2πd/L, C = (gd)
• 0.05 < d/L < 0.5, use full equation.
In real oceans of Earth, at steepness of 1:7, wave velocity is 10% more than theoretical value.
Wave steepness H:L, where H is wave height
In real oceans of Earth, max is 1:7, with a 120° crest angle
Internal Waves (on boundary layers of waters of different density).
N = ( (gravity/density) x (density/depth) ) where N is buoyancy frequency.
Large N indicates stable stratification.
Wave velocity for Waves of Translation.
C = (gd) where g is force of gravity, d is depth of water plus wave height.
In contrast, we have campaigning on climate change (Chapter 5) – “like in North Carolina where they passed HB 819 in 2012, have strangely banned policies from being based on climate change predictions. Unfortunately, six years later, in September 2018, Category 4 Hurricane Florence produced large storm surges and inundated much of the Carolina coastline and the offshore islands. North Carolina may have proved it can ignore the findings of climate scientists, but it cannot escape the impacts of climate change. Unfortunately for the US citizens living in these coastal areas, the US federal government has yet to provide a national policy on coast climate change.” … “In many other countries, including the United Kingdom, climate change is being maturely addressed by local councils and environmental agencies.”
Please understand that I actually fully agree with the book’s position on this and other things, but am using it now to illustrate the incongruous directions. I would like a quantified theory relating increased thermal energy of atmosphere and ocean to wave and beach behaviors. I would like a quantified theory relating sea level rise to wave and beach behaviors. Instead, it catalogs natural and man-made disasters of recent history. Climate science is a scientific study, not headlines. To me, it represents a lost opportunity to understand 21st century issues in the same analytical light that Bascom shed in the 1960s and 1970s.
All the joy for me came in the science and engineering text sections. I guess I’m still waiting for the fourth edition. Maybe I could even recommend inclusion of the propagation of acoustic and electromagnetic waves in ocean waters for that future edition.
I read a copy of Waves and Beaches; The Powerful Dynamics of Sea and Coast, 3rd Edition, by Willard Bascom and Kim McCoy in Protected PDF using Adobe Digital Editions, which I received from Patagonia through netgalley.com in August 2021, in exchange for an honest review on social media platforms and on my book review blog. I have learned since, that I was provided a pre-publication version, though the book had been published in March 2021.
Bascom was not an academic scientist, but a marine engineer, oceanographer, and adventurer whose enthusiasm for the science was communicated through his writing. He passed away in 2000, and decades after the second edition, Kim McCoy and Patagonia (the American outdoor clothing and gear company) have published a third edition. McCoy has added an update of nearly half a century of oceanographic science, the evolution of instrumentation, and a description of planetary climate change – while preserving a substantial portion of Bascom’s original text. I should mention that this edition also includes some stunning photography.
Unfortunately, I found the merge of two purposes and styles to not be smooth. On the one hand, it is a science and engineering text, giving equations of idealized and observed ocean behavior. On the other hand, it is also a treatise on global climate change and environmentalism. In particular, in the opening chapters, the climate change topics seem simply inserted, when the overviews might have been wholly re-written. Especially irritating was the insistence that climate change be considered a literal wave. The very first sentence of the book defines a wave to be “an undulating form of energy propagating through a medium,” The human-caused component of climate change we are experiencing at this time involves transition of the ocean, permanent or temporary, but it is not that kind of wave.
Compare for example, the analytical style for both idealized and realized waves: (unfortunately square root and other symbols may not display correctly on goodreads):
Wavelength L =( g/2π)T² where g is gravitational acceleration, T is period.
In real oceans of Earth, using metric system, L=1.56 T².
Wave velocity “celerity” C = ((gL/2π)tanh(2πd/L)) where d is water depth.
Convenient approximations are used:
• d/L > 0.5 is a deep water wave, tanh(2πd/L) is nearly 1, so C = (gL/2π)
• d/L < 0.05 is shallow water wave, tanh(2πd/L) is nearly 2πd/L, C = (gd)
• 0.05 < d/L < 0.5, use full equation.
In real oceans of Earth, at steepness of 1:7, wave velocity is 10% more than theoretical value.
Wave steepness H:L, where H is wave height
In real oceans of Earth, max is 1:7, with a 120° crest angle
Internal Waves (on boundary layers of waters of different density).
N = ( (gravity/density) x (density/depth) ) where N is buoyancy frequency.
Large N indicates stable stratification.
Wave velocity for Waves of Translation.
C = (gd) where g is force of gravity, d is depth of water plus wave height.
In contrast, we have campaigning on climate change (Chapter 5) – “like in North Carolina where they passed HB 819 in 2012, have strangely banned policies from being based on climate change predictions. Unfortunately, six years later, in September 2018, Category 4 Hurricane Florence produced large storm surges and inundated much of the Carolina coastline and the offshore islands. North Carolina may have proved it can ignore the findings of climate scientists, but it cannot escape the impacts of climate change. Unfortunately for the US citizens living in these coastal areas, the US federal government has yet to provide a national policy on coast climate change.” … “In many other countries, including the United Kingdom, climate change is being maturely addressed by local councils and environmental agencies.”
Please understand that I actually fully agree with the book’s position on this and other things, but am using it now to illustrate the incongruous directions. I would like a quantified theory relating increased thermal energy of atmosphere and ocean to wave and beach behaviors. I would like a quantified theory relating sea level rise to wave and beach behaviors. Instead, it catalogs natural and man-made disasters of recent history. Climate science is a scientific study, not headlines. To me, it represents a lost opportunity to understand 21st century issues in the same analytical light that Bascom shed in the 1960s and 1970s.
All the joy for me came in the science and engineering text sections. I guess I’m still waiting for the fourth edition. Maybe I could even recommend inclusion of the propagation of acoustic and electromagnetic waves in ocean waters for that future edition.
I read a copy of Waves and Beaches; The Powerful Dynamics of Sea and Coast, 3rd Edition, by Willard Bascom and Kim McCoy in Protected PDF using Adobe Digital Editions, which I received from Patagonia through netgalley.com in August 2021, in exchange for an honest review on social media platforms and on my book review blog. I have learned since, that I was provided a pre-publication version, though the book had been published in March 2021.
September 30, 2023
Both fascinating and boring. All of the equations and formulas really confused me-definitely a dense read.
July 6, 2022
I expected more from this. It seems to cover lots of material but none of it in depth enough.
August 28, 2021
This is a spectacular book for a wide audience. It has a great deal of detail and includes the mathematical equations behind many of the relationships between the various factors that affect the movement of water and beaches for those readers that really want to know the physics behind wave phenomena. On the other hand, it also qualitatively describes these same phenomena for those readers that want more of an overview and wish to skip the detailed explanations. I would highly recommend this book for anyone that has ever wondered why waves come in "sets"; or where the beach sand goes in winter; or why riptides form and how to recognize where they are before you enter the water. This book is a must-have for the marine enthusiast's library.
February 1, 2022
DNF at 15%. the formatting of the ebook is such a pain in the butt to read. may eventually pick up a physical copy or just read the second edition.
September 4, 2021
I read this book because I have been a beach person since childhood. Today I spend the late Spring and Summer living in a house with a view of Narragansett Bay. The rest of the year is spent in Florida, a short drive to Tampa Bay and the Gulf Coast. I call myself a flatlander, but one with a need to be near the sea. I used to swim along the coast for 45 minute stretches. I was a boater, today limited to kayaking. The coast is a place that provides me with a sense of inner peace that others find in the mountains.
The third edition of Waves and Beaches is an update of a text that the author of this edition notes he read in an introductory graduate course in oceanography. Don't let that scare you off. If you are a boater, whether sail or power, a kayaker, a paddle boarder, a surfer, a fisherman (or woman), or just somebody who loves being on the water or sitting on a beach, this book has a lot to offer.
While there is some simple algebra included to explain key concepts, one need not be a math expert to enjoy the text and the outstanding photos, graphs, tables and other illustrations. The old adage of "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies to those in the book, which offer not only great scenery, but excellent examples of the concepts presented.
McCoy has taken Willard Bascom's text and updated with many references to more recent examples of coastal processes and some brief insights into the implications of sea level rise. But mostly this is a book that addresses Waves and Beaches. I learned things that will be a benefit the next time I am at the beach or in my kayak, on a friend's boat or simply looking at the Bay from my front porch.
The book also includes chapters on beach erosion and coastal engineering methods used to protect those beaches, harbors and low-lying, populated areas. I found these chapters particularly valuable given the effects of hurricanes and storms where I live and the increased need for policies and investments to protect those areas already suffering from sea level rise and those that will in the future.
While I recommend this book to those I've identified above, one must understand that it is written more as a text rather than a non-fiction essay. This brings benefits and detriments for the reader. The material is highly detailed and somewhat technical in some areas, but it also is more exacting to the extent it provides simple algebraic formulas, graphs and lots of examples to describe the various kinds of waves, why they behave as they do, how to measure them, the processes that create beaches, etc.
I want to thank NetGalley and the publishers for providing a copy in exchange for this review.
The third edition of Waves and Beaches is an update of a text that the author of this edition notes he read in an introductory graduate course in oceanography. Don't let that scare you off. If you are a boater, whether sail or power, a kayaker, a paddle boarder, a surfer, a fisherman (or woman), or just somebody who loves being on the water or sitting on a beach, this book has a lot to offer.
While there is some simple algebra included to explain key concepts, one need not be a math expert to enjoy the text and the outstanding photos, graphs, tables and other illustrations. The old adage of "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies to those in the book, which offer not only great scenery, but excellent examples of the concepts presented.
McCoy has taken Willard Bascom's text and updated with many references to more recent examples of coastal processes and some brief insights into the implications of sea level rise. But mostly this is a book that addresses Waves and Beaches. I learned things that will be a benefit the next time I am at the beach or in my kayak, on a friend's boat or simply looking at the Bay from my front porch.
The book also includes chapters on beach erosion and coastal engineering methods used to protect those beaches, harbors and low-lying, populated areas. I found these chapters particularly valuable given the effects of hurricanes and storms where I live and the increased need for policies and investments to protect those areas already suffering from sea level rise and those that will in the future.
While I recommend this book to those I've identified above, one must understand that it is written more as a text rather than a non-fiction essay. This brings benefits and detriments for the reader. The material is highly detailed and somewhat technical in some areas, but it also is more exacting to the extent it provides simple algebraic formulas, graphs and lots of examples to describe the various kinds of waves, why they behave as they do, how to measure them, the processes that create beaches, etc.
I want to thank NetGalley and the publishers for providing a copy in exchange for this review.
April 24, 2025
As a surfer and environmental engineer, I’ve always been fascinated by the ocean’s power and complexity, and Waves and Beaches delivered more than I expected. I learned far more from this book than I did in my undergraduate oceanography course—it dives deep into the physical dynamics of waves, tides, and coastal processes in a way that’s both technical and visually captivating.
That said, this isn’t a book for everyone. It’s best suited for readers who already have a strong interest in the ocean and don’t mind engaging with the more technical aspects of wave mechanics. Some of the equations, while academically interesting, don’t have much practical application within the broader narrative, which might deter more casual readers.
True to Patagonia’s publishing style, the photography is stunning and elevates the book beyond just a technical read—it makes for an excellent coffee table addition for ocean lovers, even if you’re just flipping through for the visuals.
In short, if you’re passionate about the sea and enjoy understanding the forces that shape our coasts, this is a rewarding read. But for those looking for a light, general-interest book about the ocean, it may feel a bit dense.
That said, this isn’t a book for everyone. It’s best suited for readers who already have a strong interest in the ocean and don’t mind engaging with the more technical aspects of wave mechanics. Some of the equations, while academically interesting, don’t have much practical application within the broader narrative, which might deter more casual readers.
True to Patagonia’s publishing style, the photography is stunning and elevates the book beyond just a technical read—it makes for an excellent coffee table addition for ocean lovers, even if you’re just flipping through for the visuals.
In short, if you’re passionate about the sea and enjoy understanding the forces that shape our coasts, this is a rewarding read. But for those looking for a light, general-interest book about the ocean, it may feel a bit dense.
March 30, 2022
I loved every minute of this book. It was brilliant and you can learn so much from reading it. It will also be an amazing resource if you are studying geography, Geology and environmental sciences. As it is packed full of very useful information and plenty of equations that are fully explained and easy to understand. This book brought me back to my A level and degree geography days. This will also make a fantastic read for those coastal engineers and those who are fascinated by the impact of waves on coastal morphology. Also those who want to understand wave dynamics and the book covers so much. I thought it was so well researched and so well explained and easy to understand. I loved the way the book was layed out and including so many great pictures, figures and diagrams. The cover was also perfect. I look forward to reading more from this author and publishers.
So much praise goes out to the author and publishers for producing such an amazing informative book.
So much praise goes out to the author and publishers for producing such an amazing informative book.
September 28, 2021
This book is a very timely and relevant update to original research by Willard Bascom (based on a book first published in 1963). This book goes into meticulous detail about all aspects of oceans, waves, beaches, etc. - from cities built on sand barriers, to the composition of the sand on beaches around the world. The photos are absolutely gorgeous and emphasizes the power and beauty of oceans. Parts of this book are accessible to a non-scientist reader like me, but other parts are written more for the scientific audience (I quickly read past all of the mathematic equations!).
This book is an important contribution to understanding the impact of climate change and rising sea levels around the world and on our society in terms of living choices, safe drinking water and the insurance industry.
This book is an important contribution to understanding the impact of climate change and rising sea levels around the world and on our society in terms of living choices, safe drinking water and the insurance industry.
September 9, 2021
I will never look at the waves and beaches the same again. I was fascinate and amaze from the first page at how it all works and I would recommend that anyone who loves the ocean and beaches should read this book. There were parts that I didn't get or had to read a few times to understand but overall I enjoy the book and all of the pictures and illustration that are included will help you to understand the dynamics work. I read it a little at a time so I wasn't overwhelm.
One thing that amazes me the most are all the ships that still sink and all the debris that is hang out in our oceans, I wonder how it effects all the life forms in the ocean. It reminds me of all the space junk that humans has left in space.
I want to thank Patagonia and NetGalley for this wonderful book
One thing that amazes me the most are all the ships that still sink and all the debris that is hang out in our oceans, I wonder how it effects all the life forms in the ocean. It reminds me of all the space junk that humans has left in space.
I want to thank Patagonia and NetGalley for this wonderful book
September 20, 2025
A great introduction to waves and beaches for the non-oceanographers. Greet visualizations throughout the book. The updated edition on climate change feels a bit incongruent in its presentation - sections feel just pasted in throughout the book at random times (e.g. climate change is not a wave, as defined). I think they should’ve just added a new chapter for climate change at the end, but maybe that wouldn’t afford a co-authorship. Still, a great read for those interested in surfing, sailing, or anything on the water.
July 28, 2021
A truly beautiful introduction to the science of wave and beaches, updated with the latest scientific research and modern stories. Sometimes a bit focused on California and the US (not surprising given the authors), but the international reader will still find a lot of relevant info. Give any reader the will to "Go and see." And to protect what we have left! Thanks Kim and Patagonia for this book.
September 28, 2021
Newly updated in 2021, this third edition of Willard Bascom's handbook by Kim McCoy is gorgeously produced with full page color photographs and paper made from 100% post-consumer waste. Accessible and extensive, this handbook has something for everyone, from people with a background or interest in oceanography to people (like me) who just love the sea. (Recommended by Ms. Kristen at Howland-Green)
April 17, 2025
DNF at ~80% through. This was my bad on not quite having my expectations right—it's effectively a physics textbook, and it's extremely technical. It's a gorgeous book, and had some interesting tidbits in there, but I found much of it to be inaccessible and not easily applicable. I purchased this because I surf, but when I got through the surf section and part of the beach section and realized I didn't get much out of it, I figured it was time to call it a day.
August 20, 2021
I love this book! Having lived by the sea all of my life I enjoy any book about the sea. This book taught me things I didn’t know. Simply wonderful. I recommend it to everyone who is interested in things seashore
Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for an advance copy in exchange for an honest review.
Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for an advance copy in exchange for an honest review.
December 26, 2021
If you're interested in the ocean or anything related to it (surfing, sailing, beaches, etc.) then this book is the ultimate resource for you. The ocean, it's movements, how it's connected to people and the rest of the environment is all covered in amazing, fascinating detail. On top of that, it is beautifully illustrated and is worth the price just for the photos alone.
April 17, 2021
Strikes the sweet spot in popular science writing; just enough detail to be satisfying and not so much as to require protracted mentation. Patagonia edition replete with gorgeous illustrations and photos.
December 22, 2022
So much interesting information, equations, scientific research and general stories about beaches and the ocean. Anyone who has an interest would find something within these pages.
Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for an advance copy in exchange for an honest review.
Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for an advance copy in exchange for an honest review.
August 13, 2021
This is a wonderful book that is a good blend of science and storytelling.
March 15, 2022
Really cool and definitely fairly dense. The images are amazing and the authors personal experiences are hard to beat.
July 3, 2022
a must read for those who love the sea
September 18, 2022
I was in way over my head throughout this book. Very engineering heavy. Towards the end there was some good learning about dams and boats and coastal erosion but the begining and middle were a drag.
January 31, 2025
Kim McCoy ruined this book. Go back to the first or second edition.
May 31, 2025
Interesting read, bit dry but really insightful.
August 6, 2021
This updated edition of a highly technical book read by scientists, surfers and sailors offers new data relating to the sea and climate change. It’s filled with interesting facts, such as about efforts to convert ocean currents into usable power with tidal turbine systems; a history of tsunamis; and shoreline erosion. Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for an advance copy in exchange for an honest review.
December 7, 2022
Hmmm??? What would motivate me to pick up this volume on waves and sand? I still don't have a good answer, but if you know someone who is "ga-ga" over the beach this might be the book for them. Naturally, the drama of freak waves comes up and I spend about 20 minutes looking at YouTube videos of those and tsunamis - and they are both some scary stuff.
August 4, 2023
very thorough very enjoyable read. mccoy's updated appendices crudely tacking onto every chapter sometimes paragraph were distracting. such contributions should have been published in a seperate volume. still a fantastic read, and this is a beautiful full color reprinted edition. couldn't recommend enough.
Displaying 1 - 27 of 27 reviews