Ahead of the Curve: Learn to Fit and Sew Amazing Clothes for Your Curves

by Jenny Rushmore

Ahead of the Curve is the first sewing book to empower curvy and plus size women to feel body confident by sewing a wardrobe that fits.

Don’t change your body to fit your clothes – change your clothes to fit your body!

Ahead of the Curve includes 5 basic garment patterns (UK sizes 16–36/US size 12–32/EUR sizes 44–64), which includes a pair of trousers, a t-shirt, a sleeveless top and two dress designs. Jenny takes you through a series of “Fit Clinics” – tutorials and case studies demystifying the fitting process – showing you how to adjust these patterns to master the perfect fit for your body shape. Once you have got to grips with this, you can go on to customize your closet and create an unlimited array of fantastic clothes that celebrate your body.

If you’re curvy or plus size, trying to find clothes that fit and reflect your personal style can be incredibly difficult and frustrating. Plus size women feel constantly excluded and like they can’t express their personality through clothes. This book finally changes that.

Genres: Sewing, Nonfiction, Reference, Crafts, How To, Adult

192 pages, Hardcover

First published October 14, 2021

Reviews

[Allie]

The real star of this book is definitely the incredibly in depth sections on how to correct the various fit issues you might encounter--and there are a lot so it's the bulk of the book! I have only made a toile for one of the patterns, because the rest are cute they're just too involved. I'm lazy AF and my clothes choices reflect that.

[Scrapsandsass · Rating 4 out of 5]

This has beginner patterns for clothing along with some really great guides for measurements and alterations. The before and after pics show how simple adjustments can make the outfit fit so much better.

[Riley · Rating 5 out of 5]

I've been using this book pretty extensively as I work on making a bodice block using the Honeybourne dress, and I find the info to be to-the-point and easy to consume while still being incredibly helpful. The projects are chosen with care to reflect the most basic garment types you're likely to come across, and the pattern adjustment details are straightforward as they highlight the most common fit issues. I appreciate that this also focuses on the particular fit issues that come up a lot for plus size folks.

The only thing I'll say is that it's definitely meant to be for relative beginners and it doesn't necessarily have the in-depth information I crave for understanding the finer details of fit (for instance, I've been supplementally reading elsewhere on armscye fit to gave me a much clearer understanding of exactly what's going on up there and how to fine tune things). However, I appreciate that all that info would make for a very dense book, and that's clearly not what they're going for here. Overall a very, very useful book for someone looking to get into and refine their garment sewing.

[Eliza · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderfully helpful for a beginning sewist. The basic instructions on fit and pattern alteration have been invaluable. It’s not exhaustive, but it has been enough to give me a jumping off point to find more information. The 5 included patterns are a well thought out addition.

[Andi Is Awesome · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic explanations of different types of adjustments and great use of comparison pictures to help identify fit problems on your own garments. This book will be an invaluable point of reference on my sewing journey!

[Heidi · Rating 5 out of 5]

A landmark book for sewist making their own clothing, especially plus-sized sewists. The focus of this book is fitting, and the information is applicable to any size even though the patterns are specifically for plus size. There are fitting sections for bust, shoulders and neck, arms, back, and lower half. There are plenty of step by step illustrations. The bust section is very thorough and covers both how to make the pattern larger or smaller. 5 patterns with directions are included at the end - a woven tank, a woven dress, a knit raglan tee, a knit dress, and a pair of pants with elastic back waist.

This book did an excellent job of covering the topics in its scope. I wish it had included a few more options for different ways to do some of the fitting issues or a few more fitting issues covered, but that would have probably resulted in too long of a book.

I did not try any of the patterns and I don't fall into the size range. The size range for these patterns is the Cashmerette original size range for larger sizes.

I really admire the way Jenny Rushmore has transformed the sewing community.

[Lana Birkhimer · Rating 5 out of 5]

A great beginners guide and fantastic value!

This is a fantastic book for someone new to garment sewing because they can't find ready to wear clothing that fits. This is a clear, body positive guide to getting started with fitting basics garments for your unique size and shape. The 5 patterns were easy to locate and download and the book walks you through all of the (too often assumed) technical bits for clarity. The pattern directions are thorough without being condescending. Some independent pattern companies will have free patterns as a "try before you buy" kind of deal but they are often lacking professional drafting details. I am very impressed by how well the patterns are drafted. These 5 patterns are a great wardrobe base and a fantastic DIY fit clinic for a first time garment sewist.

[Elizabeth • Lucky Lulu Reads · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a great book for beginners and advanced sewists looking to level up their fitting game. This book is everything I wanted out of a fitting book. With photos, diagrams, and explanations, it tells you exactly how to diagnose fit issues in your sewing patterns and how to fix them. It's really accessible to all skill levels, I think, and will help you get that "bespoke" fit. The book also includes some sewing patterns that are already designed for curvy bodies, which is a great for practice since you might have fewer alterations to make.

[Faith · Rating 5 out of 5]

Indispensable for sewists who aren’t shaped like dress forms, ie, most of us. If you want to sew clothes but find commercial patterns don’t fit, this book will help you fix that. While it’s designed with plus sizes in mind, it has excellent instructions for adjusting patterns to match humans of all shapes and sizes. I am still reeling from the mind-blowing moment of clarity that comes from understanding that commercially made patterns and off the rack clothes are nearly always drafted to a B cup. It explains so much about why nothing ever fits.

[Ruth · Rating 4 out of 5]

There is a pattern by this designer that I have been wanting to purchase, so when I saw this from the library I was excited. The thing is I am honestly not a fan of the other patterns. They tend to go for the more "flowy" designs, and I'm a fit-and-flare girl to the bone. Still, a good book for those wanting to look more at independent pattern designers AND are plus size.

[Charity Cunningham · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ahead of the Curve by Jenny Rushmore is hands down the best sewing resource for the curvy figure!

I finally understand how to accurately calculate a Full Bust Adjustment!

I highly recommend this book to every beginning sewer who wants to learn how to make clothes that fit, and flatter your unique shape!

This is an amazing book, that is definitely worth the purchase price!

[Rose Sullivan · Rating 5 out of 5]

Jenny Rushmore is a genius! She is straightforward about fitting issues that plague those of us who are more round than stick-figure models. Her suggestions are easy to follow and they work! I've been sewing for many years and Ahead of the Curve is the first book I've enjoyed reading and learning from. Thanks, Jenny!

[Melissa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Awesome book! Just what every curvy sexist needs. There are so many tips and trick. I’ve already put some to use in my latest sews. Bonus are the 5 full-size patterns included! Highly recommend to any one who wants to up their fitting!

[Jennifer Kubenka · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have a lot of books about fitting, but this one, I think, is going to be my go-to now. Very concise but friendly explanations of how to fit curvy bodies; while the book is geared towards female-identifying bodies, many of the fitting instructions can be applied to male-identifying bodies.

[Jonii · Rating 5 out of 5]

I just wrote a lengthy review that was gushy from one end to the other. And lost it making a typing correction on my phone. Needless to say, this book is a must have and I will be purchasing a copy! (I currently have it checked out from the library.)

[Karina Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

Another great book

Great book. just got a paper copy waiting till Wednesday to Get it in my hands. have read it 3 time and find more information that help. thank you. I just starting to sewing. Great for beginners.

[S · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very helpful information for fitting patterns

[Liz · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great tips for fitting, and useful patterns included.

[Sam · Rating 5 out of 5]

A wonderful book of practical advice on how to alter patterns to suit shape. Well worth buying and free patterns too

[MJ · Rating 4 out of 5]

If I every sew clothing again, this'll be the book that I purchase.

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellent, positive book on fitting and sewing especially for curvy women. I love the can-do attitude and great information. A great reference with a few good, basic patterns.

[Laura Eaton · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing book for anyone trying to sew clothes that truly fit!

[Becca Harrison · Rating 5 out of 5]

Patterns are lovely, great instructions

[Yycdaisy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Clear, concise, useful. All the alterations are explained and beautifully illustrated.

[Heather Carter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Love them all! Fantastic step by step instructions on how to make the pattern fit your body and not just a generic mannequin at the design shop. Wonderful for curvy bodies. Highly recommend.

[Jeana · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have found so much useful info in this book. I look forward to putting it to use soon.

[Auden · Rating 5 out of 5]

-excellent, straightforward fitting book, the information is very streamlined but still exactly what I need as I'm sewing.
-the book functions really well on the Kindle app (although I've also ordered the hard copy to have in my collection)
-explains grading between sizes (my hip is 5 sizes larger than my shoulder/chest - no wonder RTW doesn't fit)
- helps you get a good, comfortable fit while not mentioning anything about creating hourglasses or flattering/slimming the body, which is something that has always bothered me about other books
-5 patterns included is a lot! I haven't had a chance to make them, but I've made many by the author's pattern company, and they have reliable, professional drafting and excellent directions.

[Ash Andrews · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved reading Jenny Rushmore's story and the origins of her company Cashmerette. She does a beautiful job helping readers with cognitive reframing: your body is the not problem--the fit of the clothes is. The book is full of visual tutorials called "fit clinics" to make every alteration possible the make a pattern fit your body.

Very informative and inspirational.

[M]

I avoided buying any fitting books before this book was ever announced and now I never have to buy any because I have this one. It's perfection.