Okazaki Kyoko's Helter Skelter is so many things at once, it is a challenge to describe it. It's beautiful and ugly, erotic and repulsive, poignantly shallow, and all around shows easily how at odds reality is with itself. Let's start with the art: It's not as polished as one might be used to, but that style is very reminiscent of other 90s josei. It looks more quickly drawn and less reworked* than shoujo and shounen series of the same time frame. Intentionally or not, it helps to make the world in the pages feel more frantic and imperfect, much like the real world. The big moments are striking, burning into the readers minds while the smaller moments blur and quickly leave the memory. The color pages at the beginning and chapter starts are often exquisitely beautiful even when fairly simplistic. Overall, it's a pleasure for those that like the style (such as myself), but there are certain downfalls. In particular, sometimes it's difficult to tell characters apart due to similar styles used for all characters but Liliko. This includes male and female characters looking very similar.
*Note: Ms. Okazaki was hit by a drunk driver shortly after the serialization of Helter Skelter. Her injuries precluded the usual correcting of errors, art cleanup, etc, that manga typically receive when collected into an omnibus form.
The story is a twisting tale of the quest for beauty leading to ruination and that which comes after. The underlying social commentary that people will do anything for beauty/power and will abandon those who no longer make the cut rings true even in less opulent times/regions. The idea of experimental plastic surgeries including very disturbing components is both appalling and frighteningly believable. Beyond beauty, Okazaki also tackles the the fickle nature of fame, the role celebrities play in the lives and mindsets of young (and not-so-young people) and how easily a perfect life can be torn asunder by vices.
All of the characters are flawed, selfish beings that act so much in their own self interest that they are extremely realistic. Liliko is both utterly unlikeable and yet also completely pitiable. Sometimes she's honest with herself, sometimes she lies to herself and this provides a well-done unreliable narrative for the reader. The supporting cast both tries to keep her happy and also spite her when opportunity calls. It's not a particularly uplifting view of society, but it doesn't feel that it's very far off from the truth in small, powerful social spheres.
Overall, Helter Skelter is a manga like few others. It is remarkably engaging even with characters that are difficult to like and keeps the reader both uncomfortable and unable to stop reading. Due to the mature themes and scenes, the target audience is narrowed a bit, but for those who enjoy an adult series taking on the darker side of fame and beauty, it's a must-read. Plus, as the last work that Okazaki Kyoko created before her career-halting accident and the first of Vertical, Inc.'s Okazaki releases, it will serve as a great introduction to her style in time for the release of her earlier work, Pink, in November 2013. I have my pre-order in, how about you?