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Бьюти-минимализм: Чем опасен гиперуход за кожей и что делать, чтобы не навредить себе
Бьюти-индустрия переживает бум, а блогеры и инфлюенсеры каждый день рассказывают подписчикам о новых чудодейственных средствах и универсальных рецептах красоты. Однако увлечение новинками может угрожать не только вашему кошельку.
Канадский дерматолог с двадцатилетним стажем Сэнди Скотницки уверена, что главный враг здоровой кожи — гиперуход, то есть злоупотребление косметикой и бьюти-процедурами. Приверженцы гиперухода сначала повреждают естественную защиту кожи мылом и очищающими средствами, а затем пытаются восстановить ее при помощи многоступенчатого ухода.
Скотницки рассказывает, как избавиться от дерматитов, зуда, жжения и многих других проблем (а заодно и большинства ваших баночек с косметикой), если не вмешиваться в естественную жизнь кожи. Ее метод основан на клинических исследованиях и включает разумный минимум уходовых средств и авторскую диету.
Канадский дерматолог с двадцатилетним стажем Сэнди Скотницки уверена, что главный враг здоровой кожи — гиперуход, то есть злоупотребление косметикой и бьюти-процедурами. Приверженцы гиперухода сначала повреждают естественную защиту кожи мылом и очищающими средствами, а затем пытаются восстановить ее при помощи многоступенчатого ухода.
Скотницки рассказывает, как избавиться от дерматитов, зуда, жжения и многих других проблем (а заодно и большинства ваших баночек с косметикой), если не вмешиваться в естественную жизнь кожи. Ее метод основан на клинических исследованиях и включает разумный минимум уходовых средств и авторскую диету.
334 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2018
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June 10, 2021
Книга о разумном потреблении косметики и неразумном многоступенчатом уходе за кожей. Автор — дерматолог с 20-летним стажем, поэтому в книге есть рекомендации по уходу и очищению и некоторые примеры, с чем люди обращаются к врачу. Остальным, для кого вопрос ухода за кожей не требует обращения к специалисту, можно пробежаться по основным тезисам:
1) главный постулат автора — мойтесь меньше и без мыла.
До недавних времён люди либо не мылись вообще, либо раз в неделю, и чувствовали себя вполне ок. Гиперточищение и агрессивное мыло, ставшие популярными в ХХ веке, могут быть виновниками увеличения числа случаев аллергии, атомического дерматита и других кожных заболеваний.
а) оптимальное мытьё для взрослого городского жителя, который не грузил весь день вагоны с углём и не валялся в лужах с бензином — быстрый душ не чаще одного раза в день, с применением мягких очищающих средств только на особые зоны (подмышки, пах, стопы);
б) младенцев во избежание проблем с кожей моем 2-3 раза в неделю со специальным детским средством (рекомендации Американской ассоциации дерматологов);
в) подросткам, так и быть, можно мыться раз в день.
2) если у вас проблемы с кожей, сильное раздражение или покраснение, в ожидании визита к дерматологу сядьте на «косметическую диету»: не пользуйтесь вообще никакими средствами, умывайтесь водой. Будет точно лучше, чем обмазывать себя разными кремами не пойми для чего.
3) внимательно читайте состав косметических средств; чем меньше в них ингредиентов, тем лучше (оптимально — не больше десяти). Не ведитесь на маркетинговые уловки и слоганы. В частности, средства «без отдушек» не означает, что в составе не будет натуральных лаванды, календулы, ромашки, мяты etc, которые являются сильными аллергенами. Наиболее безопасные средства, которые автор рекомендует во разных разделах книги, — в основном аптечных марок: Bioderma, La Roche-Posay, CeraVe, Aveene.
4) чтобы кожа хорошо выглядела не только в двадцать лет, занимайтесь спортом, не ешьте много жирного, не курите, спите по восемь часов в день.
5) защищайтесь от солнца круглый год.
P.S. Аллергия и раздражение — это, оказывается, разные вещи.
Конспект, а не рецензия)
1) главный постулат автора — мойтесь меньше и без мыла.
До недавних времён люди либо не мылись вообще, либо раз в неделю, и чувствовали себя вполне ок. Гиперточищение и агрессивное мыло, ставшие популярными в ХХ веке, могут быть виновниками увеличения числа случаев аллергии, атомического дерматита и других кожных заболеваний.
а) оптимальное мытьё для взрослого городского жителя, который не грузил весь день вагоны с углём и не валялся в лужах с бензином — быстрый душ не чаще одного раза в день, с применением мягких очищающих средств только на особые зоны (подмышки, пах, стопы);
б) младенцев во избежание проблем с кожей моем 2-3 раза в неделю со специальным детским средством (рекомендации Американской ассоциации дерматологов);
в) подросткам, так и быть, можно мыться раз в день.
2) если у вас проблемы с кожей, сильное раздражение или покраснение, в ожидании визита к дерматологу сядьте на «косметическую диету»: не пользуйтесь вообще никакими средствами, умывайтесь водой. Будет точно лучше, чем обмазывать себя разными кремами не пойми для чего.
3) внимательно читайте состав косметических средств; чем меньше в них ингредиентов, тем лучше (оптимально — не больше десяти). Не ведитесь на маркетинговые уловки и слоганы. В частности, средства «без отдушек» не означает, что в составе не будет натуральных лаванды, календулы, ромашки, мяты etc, которые являются сильными аллергенами. Наиболее безопасные средства, которые автор рекомендует во разных разделах книги, — в основном аптечных марок: Bioderma, La Roche-Posay, CeraVe, Aveene.
4) чтобы кожа хорошо выглядела не только в двадцать лет, занимайтесь спортом, не ешьте много жирного, не курите, спите по восемь часов в день.
5) защищайтесь от солнца круглый год.
P.S. Аллергия и раздражение — это, оказывается, разные вещи.
Конспект, а не рецензия)
November 25, 2017
Such an informative and well-written book about how we're damaging the micro-biome of our skin by applying hundreds of ingredients by way of lotions and potions and make-up. How we strip off our natural oils only to spend a fortune on trying to replace them. And how we're giving ourselves dermatitis, eczema, rosacea and acne by irritating our skin from all these ingredients and also by over-washing. There are a couple of quotes that stand out, like," organic and 'natural' is good for food but not for skin care", and "when showering, don't lather up all over, just wash your bits".
It was eye-opening to realize that a "fragrance-free" label doesn't mean there's no fragrance, and how tried and true products can change for the worse over the years for the sake of marketing. I especially appreciate her lists of good basic products that are free of common skin irritants.
This is a book that everyone should read.
It was eye-opening to realize that a "fragrance-free" label doesn't mean there's no fragrance, and how tried and true products can change for the worse over the years for the sake of marketing. I especially appreciate her lists of good basic products that are free of common skin irritants.
This is a book that everyone should read.
November 19, 2017
I will put my skin on a diet starting today:
Beyond Soap by Dr. Sandy Skotnicki is a refreshing read about skin care. Her advice about using skin care products makes so much sense for me. Dr. Skotnicki explains the important difference between skin allergens and skin irritants very well and she makes a point to avoid them as much as possible in order to keep our skins healthy. I believe I have been pretty good about using creams, lotions, and makeup with the least amount of ingredients in the past, but I think I can do much better with the advice in this book. My problem is dry and irritated skin from harsh winter weather and from using the wrong cleaning products. Being a soap junkie does not help in this regard. Starting today I will say good-bye to my artisan bar soap collection and put my soaps into exile to scent my closet drawers. I I will follow Dr. Skotnicki's advice to the T and see if I can avoid dry and cracked skin altogether this fall and winter season. Her approach to cleaning the whole body with less products and less often has already been put to use naturally by my husband and my daughter, who both have a lot of issues with sensitive skin. I will miss my long, hot showers and my sudsy soaps. But in the long run I believe my skin with thank me.
Beyond Soap by Dr. Sandy Skotnicki is a refreshing read about skin care. Her advice about using skin care products makes so much sense for me. Dr. Skotnicki explains the important difference between skin allergens and skin irritants very well and she makes a point to avoid them as much as possible in order to keep our skins healthy. I believe I have been pretty good about using creams, lotions, and makeup with the least amount of ingredients in the past, but I think I can do much better with the advice in this book. My problem is dry and irritated skin from harsh winter weather and from using the wrong cleaning products. Being a soap junkie does not help in this regard. Starting today I will say good-bye to my artisan bar soap collection and put my soaps into exile to scent my closet drawers. I I will follow Dr. Skotnicki's advice to the T and see if I can avoid dry and cracked skin altogether this fall and winter season. Her approach to cleaning the whole body with less products and less often has already been put to use naturally by my husband and my daughter, who both have a lot of issues with sensitive skin. I will miss my long, hot showers and my sudsy soaps. But in the long run I believe my skin with thank me.
November 26, 2017
Resourceful book about the skin care. The chapters are interesting and easy to understand.
May 7, 2021
Ngoài xem booktube, thì trước đó mình còn mê xem beauty vlog đa số của mấy chị vloger có tuổi nghề ở Việt Nam cũng 5 6 năm rồi. Dưới đây là vài note mà làm mình khá choáng ngợp về kiến thức skincare của bản thân mình, thường một ngày mình tắm khá nhiều, skincare 2 lần/ngày, và cũng gần già rồi nên cũng chập chững tìm hiểu về những chất hóa học trong dưỡng da
Đối với mình thì đây là cuốn sách về dưỡng da chuyên sâu nhất so với những số sách khác mà mình từng đọc á
---
Nỗi ám ảnh về việc tắm rửa hiện nay phần nhiều là do các hãng quảng cáo tác động vào nỗi bất an của chúng ta chứ không phải do nhu cầu đảm bảo vệ sinh cho sức khỏe của da?
Hệ sinh vật:
Thực chất, trong cơ thể chúng ta có nhiều vi khuẩn hơn là tế bào con người. Ứơc tính đến hàng nghìn tỷ, số vi khuẩn tồn tại trong cơ thể ta còn nhiều hơn số sao trên toàn bộ dải Ngân Hà.
Chúng giúp chúng ta tiêu hóa thức ăn, chống lại các đối tượng xâm nhập ngoại lai và điều chỉnh cảm giác thèm ăn của ta, ổn định tâm trạng, ngăn chặn trầm cảm.
"Xây dựng sớm và đúng đắn một hệ vi sinh vật khỏe mạnh trên da có thể ảnh hưởng đến sự phát triển của chức năng miễn dịch của da cũng như sự phải cũng như sự phát triển của hệ miễn dịch" - Joanne Kuller
Càng hiểu rõ về vi khuẩn, chúng tôi càng nhận thức được rõ ràng rằng không phải sự tồn tại của vi khuẩn đã gây ra bệnh, mà là sự mất cân bằng của các loại vi khuẩn tồn tại trên da.
Cách chúng ta chăm sóc da đang tàn phá hệ vi sinh vật, qua đó góp phần gia tăng tỷ lệ mắc nhiều bệnh về da.
.
TÁC NHÂN GÂY DỊ ỨNG HÀNG ĐẦU TRONG SẢN PHẨM CHĂM SÓC CÁ NHÂN:
1. Hương liệu
2. Chất bảo quản
3. Thuốc nhuộm tóc
4. Lanolin (mỡ len)
5. Chất tẩy rửa tổng hợp
6. Thành phần có nguồn gốc thực vật
7. Đồ chăm sóc móng
8. Kem chống nắng
(Gần đây mình còn là một con tập tành chơi hệ nến thơm nữa. Và bạn có biết hương liệu không chỉ trực tiếp ảnh hưởng qua việc bơi trên da mà còn qua mùi hương của khứu giác!!! T.T )
Hương thơm có thể vừa là lời chúc phúc vừa là một lời nguyền - nhất là với sản phẩm làm đẹp. Mùi hương tuyệt diệu có thể làm nên một sản phẩm bán chạy kiếm ra hàng triệu đôla cho công ty sản xuất.
Trung khu thần kinh liên quan đến thông tin cảm giác cũng hỗ trợ lưu trữ những ký ức đáng nhớ.
Hương thơm trong sản phẩm chăm sóc da cũng giống như đường trong đồ ăn. Chúng ta đều thích cảm giác đó. Chúng ta muốn có nó - chúng ta khao khát nó. Nhưng nó không tốt cho sức khỏe. Dần dần, hương liệu không chỉ có thể gây kích ứng mà còn gây dị ứng nữa.
Đối với mình thì đây là cuốn sách về dưỡng da chuyên sâu nhất so với những số sách khác mà mình từng đọc á
---
Nỗi ám ảnh về việc tắm rửa hiện nay phần nhiều là do các hãng quảng cáo tác động vào nỗi bất an của chúng ta chứ không phải do nhu cầu đảm bảo vệ sinh cho sức khỏe của da?
Hệ sinh vật:
Thực chất, trong cơ thể chúng ta có nhiều vi khuẩn hơn là tế bào con người. Ứơc tính đến hàng nghìn tỷ, số vi khuẩn tồn tại trong cơ thể ta còn nhiều hơn số sao trên toàn bộ dải Ngân Hà.
Chúng giúp chúng ta tiêu hóa thức ăn, chống lại các đối tượng xâm nhập ngoại lai và điều chỉnh cảm giác thèm ăn của ta, ổn định tâm trạng, ngăn chặn trầm cảm.
"Xây dựng sớm và đúng đắn một hệ vi sinh vật khỏe mạnh trên da có thể ảnh hưởng đến sự phát triển của chức năng miễn dịch của da cũng như sự phải cũng như sự phát triển của hệ miễn dịch" - Joanne Kuller
Càng hiểu rõ về vi khuẩn, chúng tôi càng nhận thức được rõ ràng rằng không phải sự tồn tại của vi khuẩn đã gây ra bệnh, mà là sự mất cân bằng của các loại vi khuẩn tồn tại trên da.
Cách chúng ta chăm sóc da đang tàn phá hệ vi sinh vật, qua đó góp phần gia tăng tỷ lệ mắc nhiều bệnh về da.
.
TÁC NHÂN GÂY DỊ ỨNG HÀNG ĐẦU TRONG SẢN PHẨM CHĂM SÓC CÁ NHÂN:
1. Hương liệu
2. Chất bảo quản
3. Thuốc nhuộm tóc
4. Lanolin (mỡ len)
5. Chất tẩy rửa tổng hợp
6. Thành phần có nguồn gốc thực vật
7. Đồ chăm sóc móng
8. Kem chống nắng
(Gần đây mình còn là một con tập tành chơi hệ nến thơm nữa. Và bạn có biết hương liệu không chỉ trực tiếp ảnh hưởng qua việc bơi trên da mà còn qua mùi hương của khứu giác!!! T.T )
Hương thơm có thể vừa là lời chúc phúc vừa là một lời nguyền - nhất là với sản phẩm làm đẹp. Mùi hương tuyệt diệu có thể làm nên một sản phẩm bán chạy kiếm ra hàng triệu đôla cho công ty sản xuất.
Trung khu thần kinh liên quan đến thông tin cảm giác cũng hỗ trợ lưu trữ những ký ức đáng nhớ.
Hương thơm trong sản phẩm chăm sóc da cũng giống như đường trong đồ ăn. Chúng ta đều thích cảm giác đó. Chúng ta muốn có nó - chúng ta khao khát nó. Nhưng nó không tốt cho sức khỏe. Dần dần, hương liệu không chỉ có thể gây kích ứng mà còn gây dị ứng nữa.
February 1, 2018
Recently I have become interested in skin care and makeup, and so thought I should take a look at this book when I saw it was available for review through NetGalley. I was a bit nervous that all of the products I've bought recently would become tainted by information that they were not good for me to use, but I went ahead with the book. If you have sensitive skin, irritations, rashes, you should read this book. The author is a dermatologist in Canada, and talks sensibly about skin care and what causes us to have issues. She clarifies the difference between allergy and sensitivity when dealing with skin external exposure and gives enough information that many would be able to figure out what to avoid based on her advice.
Fortunately for me, I only occasionally have issues, so didn't find that I need to toss my recent purchases. And she thinks it's okay to use products if you don't have problems. However, I did note a couple of ingredients that I plan to avoid in future, and I'll probably take her advice about soaping up my arms and legs less as I already have dry skin.
While the author does make specific product recommendations (based on current formulations), she isn't rigidly prescriptive regarding brands. She does give examples of times patients substituted a different product and had poor results because they didn't' choose it to avoid certain ingredients--which was why a product was recommended. The book gives enough information for most people to identify likely sources of irritation and know how to remove them to allow their skin to improve. The book is also very accessible and easy to read. I didn't find it dry at all. There is some repetition, but I think it will only be noticeable to those who read the book through rather than going to certain chapters and topics of interest.
Fortunately for me, I only occasionally have issues, so didn't find that I need to toss my recent purchases. And she thinks it's okay to use products if you don't have problems. However, I did note a couple of ingredients that I plan to avoid in future, and I'll probably take her advice about soaping up my arms and legs less as I already have dry skin.
While the author does make specific product recommendations (based on current formulations), she isn't rigidly prescriptive regarding brands. She does give examples of times patients substituted a different product and had poor results because they didn't' choose it to avoid certain ingredients--which was why a product was recommended. The book gives enough information for most people to identify likely sources of irritation and know how to remove them to allow their skin to improve. The book is also very accessible and easy to read. I didn't find it dry at all. There is some repetition, but I think it will only be noticeable to those who read the book through rather than going to certain chapters and topics of interest.
July 22, 2019
Skotnicki outlines modern dermatological research in a way that non-medical laypeople can understand. Particularly because I have moderate-to-severe atopic eczema, I was fascinated with her minimalist approach to skincare. Overall, she argues that our modern hygiene habits have damaged our skin’s microbiome and skin barrier, and the answer is simply to put less products on our skin. Until reading, I had only heard of microbiome health in relation to the gut, but she explains modern research that we actually have a microbiome on our skin, and that eczema might be more bacterial than previously understood. Unfortunately, soap wipes out the good bacteria with the bad, similar to how antibiotics work with analogous drawbacks. She recommends we wash our hair as little as possible, and we do not wash our bodies at all unless we are actually dirty, except for our underarms and groins. She also recommends we only use the most simple, fragrance-and-botanical-free products to moisturize, cautioning us that products marketed as natural, essential oils or other botanical extracts are still irritants and allergenic. She includes lists of products she recommends to use for sunscreen and moisturizers, and gives an in-depth explanation of what soap is doing to our skin, reminding us that the daily shower is a recent occurrence in human history and has been accompanied by increased incidents of sensitive skin, eczema and other skin issues. This book was very readable and practical, and I am excited to try her methods out and see if my skin improves! I am not sure if the entire book is necessary to read unless a person has chronic skin issues, but I would recommend anyone to look her up to learn more about her more broad recommendations for hygiene and skincare.
February 27, 2025
The subtitle (the real truth…) is a bit of cringy but there’s a lot of good information. A lot of it is intuitive, I think most people have concerns about covering their hair, face, and body with chemicals. But advertising and societal expectations are powerful forces. The message here is less (often none) is more and it’s convincing.
Edit: there is no mention of shaving except for one short paragraph that recommends two products. That’s a pretty glaring omission in a book about our skin and it’s care.
Edit: there is no mention of shaving except for one short paragraph that recommends two products. That’s a pretty glaring omission in a book about our skin and it’s care.
December 7, 2017
This book was tremendous. I found the writing to use sound logic and medical studies to support the point of view which made me (the amateur reader) feel like the information was more valid.
A little about me - I'm in my 30s and recently started looking into skincare and anti-aging. In my opinion, a lot of resources I've picked up seem to be more focused on skincare philosophies rather than being based on hard science. Something as simple as how often you should wash your face is philosophized (where as something like the effects of Retin A are scientifically documented but how to add it to your routine seems a matter of philosophy). For me, it's hard to trust my skin to someone that doesn't have a sound reasoning or support for their directive because frankly my skin can get angry (red, tight, inflamed, flaky) and it's not worth the risk.
This book made me feel more powerful in the way a teaching guide or textbook would do. After reading, I feel better equipped at making decisions for my own skincare and better able to recognize the signs of unhappy skin.
I received this book to review, it doesn't come out until March 2018 but I wish I could gift a few copies to some of my friends and my mom. If you're interested in skincare, it makes sense that you pick up this book. If you have some skin issues and want to feel like you understand the situation better and learn how to deal with the conditions this book is a must have!
A little about me - I'm in my 30s and recently started looking into skincare and anti-aging. In my opinion, a lot of resources I've picked up seem to be more focused on skincare philosophies rather than being based on hard science. Something as simple as how often you should wash your face is philosophized (where as something like the effects of Retin A are scientifically documented but how to add it to your routine seems a matter of philosophy). For me, it's hard to trust my skin to someone that doesn't have a sound reasoning or support for their directive because frankly my skin can get angry (red, tight, inflamed, flaky) and it's not worth the risk.
This book made me feel more powerful in the way a teaching guide or textbook would do. After reading, I feel better equipped at making decisions for my own skincare and better able to recognize the signs of unhappy skin.
I received this book to review, it doesn't come out until March 2018 but I wish I could gift a few copies to some of my friends and my mom. If you're interested in skincare, it makes sense that you pick up this book. If you have some skin issues and want to feel like you understand the situation better and learn how to deal with the conditions this book is a must have!
October 18, 2020
I've started having a designated "before bed book" because I find some of the novels I read to be too stimulating, scary, or thought-provoking to be appropriate for getting me to sleep. This book totally fit the bill: it's boring, repetitive, and lulled me to sleep with its facts. All that said, it appears to be a well informed intro to how skin products help or aggravate the skin. I enjoy fact based medical books and this one offered me some great tips on how to treat my skin, especially now that the New England winter is approaching.
I recommend this book if you have a skin issue that has been plaguing you, she has a great skin care "diet" that limits what you use to specific products that don't contain known allergens for a few weeks and then slowly introduce the products you enjoy to see if one of them is causing your skin issues. If you don't have a specific skin issue she still offers some great advice.
My take-aways:
~ use syndet bars or lypid free cleaners on your body rather than soap (soap is specifically defined in the book)
~ face cleaners should have a ph balance of 5 to 6
~use barrier creams that contain dimethicone for your hands during the dry winter season
~ you don't need to lather your whole body in soap every-time you shower (unless you have actually gotten dirty from an activity), focus on your underarms, groin, and feet
~ retinol and vitamin c serums have science based studies to back up their claims at reducing signs of aging
~ diet, exercise, and sleep impact the health of the skin
~ use mineral based sunscreens because they cause less irritation for most people and have the added benefit of creating a barrier and prevents pollutants in the air from being absorbed into your skin
I recommend this book if you have a skin issue that has been plaguing you, she has a great skin care "diet" that limits what you use to specific products that don't contain known allergens for a few weeks and then slowly introduce the products you enjoy to see if one of them is causing your skin issues. If you don't have a specific skin issue she still offers some great advice.
My take-aways:
~ use syndet bars or lypid free cleaners on your body rather than soap (soap is specifically defined in the book)
~ face cleaners should have a ph balance of 5 to 6
~use barrier creams that contain dimethicone for your hands during the dry winter season
~ you don't need to lather your whole body in soap every-time you shower (unless you have actually gotten dirty from an activity), focus on your underarms, groin, and feet
~ retinol and vitamin c serums have science based studies to back up their claims at reducing signs of aging
~ diet, exercise, and sleep impact the health of the skin
~ use mineral based sunscreens because they cause less irritation for most people and have the added benefit of creating a barrier and prevents pollutants in the air from being absorbed into your skin
January 28, 2018
Beyond Soap addresses why so many people have sensitive skin today and what to do about it. The beginning half of the book is full of great information about the history of soap and skincare, and how it has changed in recent years. I loved this section. Two things I found particularly interesting were why we here about people stinking in Europe in the past (turns out they had a fear of water after the black plague) and how the ions in soap react with your skin (they basically stick to and pull out the "sealant" between skin cells).
In the strategy section of the book, Skotnicki focuses mostly on those with severe sensitive skin (those who break out into rashes, hives, dry flaky skin, those who have eczema or rosacea, etc.) These are the clientele she specializes with in her dermatology practice. While it seemed like these tips might be helpful for people who frequently suffer from those conditions, it wasn't really helpful for me. I don't break out into rashes often, but I get really bad acne breakouts. Parts of my body have very dry skin while others have very oily skin. Her methods and suggestions didn't address either of the concerns I was hoping for answers about from a book about "how to fix it (your skin) for a beautiful, healthy glow"..
Her main, big piece of advice also felt very common sense to me. Having a reaction? Stop using recently added products and see if it goes away. If it's not easy to figure out start from scratch. Add one product back at a time, and stop using any that cause a reaction. I've already done this in the past. I didn't need someone to tell me stop using a product if it results in a rash.
Another thing that I didn't agree on personally was her products. While she provides well known brands that tend to be gentle on sensitive skin, she also states that she has nothing against sulphates and other synthetic ingredients, and is not for natural ingredients. As someone who has had great success with my skin by switching to more natural items found in my kitchen for skin care, and who had much better luck with my skin and hair after removing products with sulphates, this felt counter-intuitive to what I have experienced.
The one strategy I did find useful was again related to soap in general. She talks about methods other than lathering up once (sometimes more) daily to keep clean and how that can allow your skin to do what it's supposed to naturally: balance out its oil production, keep skin hydrated, and provide a solid protective barrier.
I gave this book 3 stars for the history section. The author clearly did her research and explains things in intellectual but easy to comprehend language. I feel like a learned a lot about skin in general and the history of its care from this book. It was very informative, it just wasn't what I originally came to the book for.
If you are looking for tips to improve your skin, I would not recommend this book for the reasons stated above. There are other books that go into much more detail about ways to improve skin health. If you are interested in the history of skincare, then this is a great book for that.
In the strategy section of the book, Skotnicki focuses mostly on those with severe sensitive skin (those who break out into rashes, hives, dry flaky skin, those who have eczema or rosacea, etc.) These are the clientele she specializes with in her dermatology practice. While it seemed like these tips might be helpful for people who frequently suffer from those conditions, it wasn't really helpful for me. I don't break out into rashes often, but I get really bad acne breakouts. Parts of my body have very dry skin while others have very oily skin. Her methods and suggestions didn't address either of the concerns I was hoping for answers about from a book about "how to fix it (your skin) for a beautiful, healthy glow"..
Her main, big piece of advice also felt very common sense to me. Having a reaction? Stop using recently added products and see if it goes away. If it's not easy to figure out start from scratch. Add one product back at a time, and stop using any that cause a reaction. I've already done this in the past. I didn't need someone to tell me stop using a product if it results in a rash.
Another thing that I didn't agree on personally was her products. While she provides well known brands that tend to be gentle on sensitive skin, she also states that she has nothing against sulphates and other synthetic ingredients, and is not for natural ingredients. As someone who has had great success with my skin by switching to more natural items found in my kitchen for skin care, and who had much better luck with my skin and hair after removing products with sulphates, this felt counter-intuitive to what I have experienced.
The one strategy I did find useful was again related to soap in general. She talks about methods other than lathering up once (sometimes more) daily to keep clean and how that can allow your skin to do what it's supposed to naturally: balance out its oil production, keep skin hydrated, and provide a solid protective barrier.
I gave this book 3 stars for the history section. The author clearly did her research and explains things in intellectual but easy to comprehend language. I feel like a learned a lot about skin in general and the history of its care from this book. It was very informative, it just wasn't what I originally came to the book for.
If you are looking for tips to improve your skin, I would not recommend this book for the reasons stated above. There are other books that go into much more detail about ways to improve skin health. If you are interested in the history of skincare, then this is a great book for that.
February 7, 2020
The first few chapters of this book got me really excited. The science Skotnicki presents on cultures using no beauty products and embracing the hygiene techniques of the past (i.e. washing once a week, not using 15 products daily) and experiencing no acne, skin irritation or skin sensitivity is convincing. She provides a lot of evidence in the first few chapters for limiting our use of beauty products, scaling back our obsessive and excessive showering habits, and giving your body a "diet" with no face, body, hair or nail products. This "reset" will clear up any sensitivity issues, rashes, and other skin problems. She points to the plethora of allergens and irritants in modern skincare products, notes that the ingredient list can be changed without consumers knowing when companies are bought-out, goes through the tremendous marketing and advertising that goes into these products, and that claims on product bottles (i.e. "hypoallergenic") are not regulated and should not be trusted.
...And then in the second half of the book, she starts recommending products to use on a daily basis! Face creams, cleaners, body creams, soaps, wrinkle creams, the list goes on! I was a little stunned by the sudden 180 on her argument. If modern beauty products have been proven to cause sensitive skin, acne, and other skin issues, why would you go back to them at all? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the "reset" and potentially open yourself up to skin irritation?
My guesses for this turn-around are 1) the well-off clients Skotnicki mentions throughout the book scoffed at the idea of using little to no products at all, that she decided to go against the mounting evidence and recommend a laundry list of (mostly high-end/expensive) products or 2) the companies who she recommends multiple times (Avene, LaRoche Posay, etc) treated her to the type of "symposiums" and "retreats" including lavish lunches, spa retreats, and trips to Paris, where they convinced her their products were worthy of endorsement. She mentions at least two other companies (P&G and Biotherma, I think) doing this, so she's clearly not opposed to this type of corporate influence. It's also important to point out that the website she mentions several times in the book, containing the updated list of products she recommends, is a revenue-generation scheme (she collects a small profit every time someone clicks on or purchases products that she recommends).
Overall, I liked the first 5 chapters of this book and then internally groaned when confronted with pages and pages of product recommendations. It seems disingenuous. 3 stars go to the research at the beginning.
...And then in the second half of the book, she starts recommending products to use on a daily basis! Face creams, cleaners, body creams, soaps, wrinkle creams, the list goes on! I was a little stunned by the sudden 180 on her argument. If modern beauty products have been proven to cause sensitive skin, acne, and other skin issues, why would you go back to them at all? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the "reset" and potentially open yourself up to skin irritation?
My guesses for this turn-around are 1) the well-off clients Skotnicki mentions throughout the book scoffed at the idea of using little to no products at all, that she decided to go against the mounting evidence and recommend a laundry list of (mostly high-end/expensive) products or 2) the companies who she recommends multiple times (Avene, LaRoche Posay, etc) treated her to the type of "symposiums" and "retreats" including lavish lunches, spa retreats, and trips to Paris, where they convinced her their products were worthy of endorsement. She mentions at least two other companies (P&G and Biotherma, I think) doing this, so she's clearly not opposed to this type of corporate influence. It's also important to point out that the website she mentions several times in the book, containing the updated list of products she recommends, is a revenue-generation scheme (she collects a small profit every time someone clicks on or purchases products that she recommends).
Overall, I liked the first 5 chapters of this book and then internally groaned when confronted with pages and pages of product recommendations. It seems disingenuous. 3 stars go to the research at the beginning.
November 11, 2019
I have struggled for 13 years with volatile skin on my face. Painful skin irritations on face and lips (and sometimes eyelids and neck). Swollen. Red. Hot. Itchy. Etc.
I was fortunate to meet Dr Skotnicki for consultation and it was a breath of fresh to chat with her about my issues.
She obviously recommended her book and the product elimination diet. I immediately bought the book and the products she outlines within it.
The first paragraph of chapter one, she described a client and their skin issues and BOOM! It was my skin to the detail - all throughout the book I could relate!
The book is very well written. Straightforward. Factual. History of skin rituals. Science on skin. And of course, marketing and advertising in the beauty and skin industry. A lot of her tips are very practical and she does not er on the expensive side for products. Fragrance and Dye free!
How is my skin now?
Day 7 - everything has cleared up (I have four weeks total till I see her). But my skin hasn’t felt better. Smooth. Soft. Radiant.
I love this book.
I was fortunate to meet Dr Skotnicki for consultation and it was a breath of fresh to chat with her about my issues.
She obviously recommended her book and the product elimination diet. I immediately bought the book and the products she outlines within it.
The first paragraph of chapter one, she described a client and their skin issues and BOOM! It was my skin to the detail - all throughout the book I could relate!
The book is very well written. Straightforward. Factual. History of skin rituals. Science on skin. And of course, marketing and advertising in the beauty and skin industry. A lot of her tips are very practical and she does not er on the expensive side for products. Fragrance and Dye free!
How is my skin now?
Day 7 - everything has cleared up (I have four weeks total till I see her). But my skin hasn’t felt better. Smooth. Soft. Radiant.
I love this book.
December 6, 2024
Just re read , very eye opening
December 8, 2017
Unfortunately this book confirmed my wrost suspicions about the brainwashing marketing-machine. I haven't had fingerprints for over the years- it makes renewing foreign residency cards and Biometric admission in Disney World impossible. The disgusting practices of harsh animal testing we thought were gone are still here in softer language in prettier, cleaner potion bottles and bars.
Working with children raises special questions for me... We are supposed to use antibacterial gel every time we enter the cafeteria or cone in from recess. Were supposed to make sure the children do the same. One girl in particular has skin like an alligator with scabs on her palms. How can anyone in good conscience continue to over-cleanse and disinfect when the results are right in front of our eyes? Is this really the only change in the last generation that could cause this? For me, yes, most likely. For my students, no... But it's definitely a contributing factor.
More is less. Back to basics. Now to convince the rest of the world...
Working with children raises special questions for me... We are supposed to use antibacterial gel every time we enter the cafeteria or cone in from recess. Were supposed to make sure the children do the same. One girl in particular has skin like an alligator with scabs on her palms. How can anyone in good conscience continue to over-cleanse and disinfect when the results are right in front of our eyes? Is this really the only change in the last generation that could cause this? For me, yes, most likely. For my students, no... But it's definitely a contributing factor.
More is less. Back to basics. Now to convince the rest of the world...
January 5, 2021
It is great to have some help in dealing with all skin care and beauty aisles in the stores and online. I wish I had this book when I was younger. I might have had a better routine started when I was a teen and avoided some of the damage I have now.
I was happy to discover that I have made some of the right choices earlier in my life. People have been laughing at me saying "I only wash the dirty bits" for awhile.
So nice to have plan laid out, and suggested products.
Thank you Dr. Slotnicki for writing this book
I was happy to discover that I have made some of the right choices earlier in my life. People have been laughing at me saying "I only wash the dirty bits" for awhile.
So nice to have plan laid out, and suggested products.
Thank you Dr. Slotnicki for writing this book
May 26, 2022
A bit repetitive (which maybe is the point to reiterate the message) - the content could have been summarised in less pages. A relevant book however given marketing and the growing beauty and skincare industry.
June 27, 2019
good book, this make my opinions about skin correctly. Thing've that i have consider is true.
January 21, 2021
I wish I had this book decades ago. Finally, I know what my skin does and does not need. I love the lists of gentle products. My family is already benefiting from this information.
January 25, 2021
A great Canadian book for anyone who has sensitive skin!
January 9, 2019
Fantastically written, lots of facts. Take away is do as little as possible to your skin and it will look after you.
June 26, 2020
I don’t think I was the target audience for this book. However, there were some extremely informative pieces of advice and I enjoyed reading it. I think people with sensitive skin and the skin-care-product-crazy people should definitely read this book.
January 6, 2018
***Disclaimer: I received a free copy of this book via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.***
This book clearly had a wealth of credible information, as it was written by a professional dermatologist. She uses scientific background of skin and skincare to explain her reasoning, thinking, and recommendations. It was so interesting to read about how skincare has developed over the millennia and how we have become suckers for the marketing of big companies. For the first half of the book the author gets you good and scared about what you're doing to your skin, then in the second half gives concrete recommendations.
I thought the book could have been edited to be a bit shorter - some topics were repeated and she could have gotten to the details of what you should do about amending your skincare regimen a little faster. That said, I learned a lot from reading this book and it will definitely contribute to me updating my skincare regimen.
This book clearly had a wealth of credible information, as it was written by a professional dermatologist. She uses scientific background of skin and skincare to explain her reasoning, thinking, and recommendations. It was so interesting to read about how skincare has developed over the millennia and how we have become suckers for the marketing of big companies. For the first half of the book the author gets you good and scared about what you're doing to your skin, then in the second half gives concrete recommendations.
I thought the book could have been edited to be a bit shorter - some topics were repeated and she could have gotten to the details of what you should do about amending your skincare regimen a little faster. That said, I learned a lot from reading this book and it will definitely contribute to me updating my skincare regimen.
November 21, 2019
Rate: 7/10
Các bạn da nhạy cảm, dễ dị ứng với các sản phẩm chăm sóc sắc đẹp thì nên pick ngay cuốn này để đọc. Cuốn sách được viết từ kinh nghiệm của một bác sĩ da liễu Sandy, nên mọi nội dung đều được viết rất cụ thể và có chuyên môn sâu, mỗi tội là người đọc sẽ phải chịu khó ghi nhớ rất nhiều tên các chất có hại/có lợi có trong các sản phẩm mình đang dùng. Từ sữa rửa mặt, thuốc nhuộm, kem chống nắng, kem dưỡng toàn thân,... đều được chỉ định một cách nghiêm ngặt và có hướng dẫn cụ thể cùng với danh sách các sản phẩm an toàn cho da nhạy cảm. Người có làn da bình thường sẽ không thể hiểu được nỗi khổ của những ai có da nhạy cảm đến siêu nhạy cảm, chỉ sử dụng một chút sản phẩm lệch tông với da thôi là "biết mặt nhau ngay". Cực kì recommend cho các bạn da nhạy cảm hoặc những bạn mới bước chân vào tìm hiểu skincare và makeup
Các bạn da nhạy cảm, dễ dị ứng với các sản phẩm chăm sóc sắc đẹp thì nên pick ngay cuốn này để đọc. Cuốn sách được viết từ kinh nghiệm của một bác sĩ da liễu Sandy, nên mọi nội dung đều được viết rất cụ thể và có chuyên môn sâu, mỗi tội là người đọc sẽ phải chịu khó ghi nhớ rất nhiều tên các chất có hại/có lợi có trong các sản phẩm mình đang dùng. Từ sữa rửa mặt, thuốc nhuộm, kem chống nắng, kem dưỡng toàn thân,... đều được chỉ định một cách nghiêm ngặt và có hướng dẫn cụ thể cùng với danh sách các sản phẩm an toàn cho da nhạy cảm. Người có làn da bình thường sẽ không thể hiểu được nỗi khổ của những ai có da nhạy cảm đến siêu nhạy cảm, chỉ sử dụng một chút sản phẩm lệch tông với da thôi là "biết mặt nhau ngay". Cực kì recommend cho các bạn da nhạy cảm hoặc những bạn mới bước chân vào tìm hiểu skincare và makeup
June 23, 2018
I learned a few interesting things, for sure. What would be great is if the author also cared about the chemicals in the products that aren’t necessarily allergenic but are likely carcinogenic or hormone disrupters. I think it’s the first time I’ve read a book about the chemicals in our products that supports parabens. Disappointing.
August 13, 2020
Excellent book on a developing line of research. Once again, big business creates new markets out of thin air...and we blindly buy into them. The author is a bit wishy washy on being soap-free or just a thoughtful consumer of skin products. I get it, not everyone is attracted to the all-in approach.
February 13, 2018
Very enlightening, although the amount of information is much less than one might suppose as more space was devoted to recommendations for specific products available on the market currently.
I recieved a free copy of this book from the publisher for review.
I recieved a free copy of this book from the publisher for review.
November 16, 2019
I loved this book! I am obsessed with skincare and nice skin that could be why I liked it so much but it is very informative book i did learn alot.
March 6, 2021
Много воды. Вся суть кратко на странице 296 - не благодарите.
January 15, 2022
This is a life changing book!
I was hardly a maximalist when it came to my daily skincare plan but I have learned I should do less.
Get this book. Read it and follow Sandy's advice!
p. 27: "the Old Testament book of First Corinthians"
p. 42: "That key component is the way we take care of our skin. I think we're washing too much. We're also using using far too many skincare products."
p. 47: "The way we're supposedly 'taking care' of our skin today ends up doing the opposite -- damaging the skin's barrier function."
p. 49: "A survey of bacteria on the palms of just 51 people found 4742 different species. Each individual palm hosted an average of 158 different species of microbe."
p. 56: Elaine Larson: "Soaps and detergents have been described as the most damaging of all substances routinely applied to skin."
p. 62: "Because of the bacteria, he says he doesn't need to shower--and he hasn't in 13 years. (He does was his hands.)"
p. 81: "The average North American woman applies 16 different products to her face before she leaves the house in the morning."
p. 93: "If you're looking for products that are less likely to cause a skin reaction, look for ones that are fragrance-free and have few to no botanicals."
p. 101: www.producteliminationdiet.com
p. 105: "fragrance-free" is better than "unscented"
p. 124: Repeat Open Application Test
p. 126: "So it's this daily, all-over-the-body exposure to soap that's causing the lion's share of the sensitive-skin cases I see."
p. 126: "The best strategy amounts to quitting washing so much. You don't wash your arms and legs unless they're dirty."
p. 134: "Some exfoliation from your forties onward is not a bad thing."
p. 153-9: Recommended Products
p. 159: Ant-static reusable balls
p. 165: "I don't recommend using Polysporin."
p. 170: Recommended hand creams to protect your lips
p. 177: "Of course we need to clean certain parts of the body--but excessive cleaning is not healthy for the skin."
p. 180: "The skin on the lower legs becomes itchy and irritated. It's called 'winter itch,' although with age it can happen during any season. It's more common to older men, who tend to soap up all over their bodies and to skip the after-shower moisturizer."
p. 182-3: "Try to avoid showering every day. How much is enough? There's no study on that, and everyone is different. But think about it--if all you do is go to work and sit in an office building and go home and relax, are you dirty? Do you really need a shower?"
p. 184: Recommended body washes
p. 191: "Use dry shampoo several times a week to decrease the amount of shampooing."
p. 196: Recommended hand creams
p. 215: Minimalist Skincare
p. 217: "Paleo Skincare"
p. 225: Dietary Approaches to Spot Hypertension (DASH) Diet
p. 227: Recommended Facial Cleansers
p. 229: Mother Dirt Cleanser
p. 229: Recommended Body Washes
p. 232: Recommended Sunscreens
p. 232: Look for SPF 30 or higher with a circled UVA symbol
p. 234: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Tinted Ultra-Fluid Lotion SPF 50
p. 261: "So how to proceed? Always sanitize your hands. Cleanse your body less frequently. When you're in the shower or bath, remember that water is a great solvent. Most times they only places that really need washing are your bits--and when you do wash them, use cleanser not soap. When it comes to products, less is more. And remember that sun avoidance and sunscreen are the cornerstones of anti-aging--and may be all the skincare you need."
I was hardly a maximalist when it came to my daily skincare plan but I have learned I should do less.
Get this book. Read it and follow Sandy's advice!
p. 27: "the Old Testament book of First Corinthians"
p. 42: "That key component is the way we take care of our skin. I think we're washing too much. We're also using using far too many skincare products."
p. 47: "The way we're supposedly 'taking care' of our skin today ends up doing the opposite -- damaging the skin's barrier function."
p. 49: "A survey of bacteria on the palms of just 51 people found 4742 different species. Each individual palm hosted an average of 158 different species of microbe."
p. 56: Elaine Larson: "Soaps and detergents have been described as the most damaging of all substances routinely applied to skin."
p. 62: "Because of the bacteria, he says he doesn't need to shower--and he hasn't in 13 years. (He does was his hands.)"
p. 81: "The average North American woman applies 16 different products to her face before she leaves the house in the morning."
p. 93: "If you're looking for products that are less likely to cause a skin reaction, look for ones that are fragrance-free and have few to no botanicals."
p. 101: www.producteliminationdiet.com
p. 105: "fragrance-free" is better than "unscented"
p. 124: Repeat Open Application Test
p. 126: "So it's this daily, all-over-the-body exposure to soap that's causing the lion's share of the sensitive-skin cases I see."
p. 126: "The best strategy amounts to quitting washing so much. You don't wash your arms and legs unless they're dirty."
p. 134: "Some exfoliation from your forties onward is not a bad thing."
p. 153-9: Recommended Products
p. 159: Ant-static reusable balls
p. 165: "I don't recommend using Polysporin."
p. 170: Recommended hand creams to protect your lips
p. 177: "Of course we need to clean certain parts of the body--but excessive cleaning is not healthy for the skin."
p. 180: "The skin on the lower legs becomes itchy and irritated. It's called 'winter itch,' although with age it can happen during any season. It's more common to older men, who tend to soap up all over their bodies and to skip the after-shower moisturizer."
p. 182-3: "Try to avoid showering every day. How much is enough? There's no study on that, and everyone is different. But think about it--if all you do is go to work and sit in an office building and go home and relax, are you dirty? Do you really need a shower?"
p. 184: Recommended body washes
p. 191: "Use dry shampoo several times a week to decrease the amount of shampooing."
p. 196: Recommended hand creams
p. 215: Minimalist Skincare
p. 217: "Paleo Skincare"
p. 225: Dietary Approaches to Spot Hypertension (DASH) Diet
p. 227: Recommended Facial Cleansers
p. 229: Mother Dirt Cleanser
p. 229: Recommended Body Washes
p. 232: Recommended Sunscreens
p. 232: Look for SPF 30 or higher with a circled UVA symbol
p. 234: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Tinted Ultra-Fluid Lotion SPF 50
p. 261: "So how to proceed? Always sanitize your hands. Cleanse your body less frequently. When you're in the shower or bath, remember that water is a great solvent. Most times they only places that really need washing are your bits--and when you do wash them, use cleanser not soap. When it comes to products, less is more. And remember that sun avoidance and sunscreen are the cornerstones of anti-aging--and may be all the skincare you need."
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