Louise Claire Johnson, Behind the Red Door, Gatekeeper Press, 2021.
Thank you, NetGalley and Gatekeeper Press for this uncorrected proof in exchange for an honest review.
Louise Claire Johnson’s preface establishes the authenticity of the material used to develop two engaging stories: Elizabeth Arden/Florence Nightingale Graham/Mrs Elizabeth Graham’s, and that of the writer, Lou, as she becomes known to the reader. The book moves smoothly between the history of Elizabeth Arden, the cosmetic company by that name, and Lou, the seeker of identity. Initially she achieves that through Elizabeth Arden, the company as it has become in 2006. The story of Florence Nightingale Graham, soon to become identified with her company as Elizabeth Arden, begins with her leaving Toronto and boarding the train to New York in 1908. This device works smoothly, both because of Louise Claire Johnson’s facility with words and the connections made between the past and present. None of these connections are contrived, whether they are personal, geographical, issues and social change (of lack of change), or relationships.
Elizabeth Arden’s story is an energising read about a woman dedicated to becoming a wealthy and competent entrepreneur, at the same time overturning men’s exclusive control of business, money, status, and power. She accomplishes this through a commodity that has its own detractors amongst women, cosmetics. Initial arguments against cosmetics revolved around morality – should women enhance the appearance with which they were born? Married to this was the negative image they conveyed as the province theatrical woman, or worse. More recently, the women’s movement has argued both on the behalf of a woman’s right to use cosmetics as part of her own identification competing with the notion that cosmetics are used to enhance a woman’s appearance to the male gaze. Elizabeth Arden astutely made inner beauty, based on exercise, morning stretching, adequate sleep and eating well part of her regime. Initially she was able to only develop skin care products as make up was unacceptable. Her cleanse, cleanse, cleanse – obviously with an Elizabeth Arden cream – was an important part of her sales regime.
With the emphasis on sales, we come to Lou’s connected Elizabeth Arden story. It is based on her business studies and internships, sales related positions, and her first full time position, Marketing Coordinator. Her eventual rise to marketing across the three Arden entities – skincare, colour, and fragrance in the Geneva headquarters brings together the entities that have been part of Elizabeth Arden’s rise through the business world. Lou is as driven as Elizabeth with her mantra: Plan Ahead + Work Hard = Achieve Goals. Unlike Elizabeth, Lou is conflicted throughout her sections of the book; but like her icon, she also creates different personas. Lou’s story is endearingly honest, highly work motivated but linked so closely with her family and friends, candour about herself, her ability, and her misgivings. She imparts her reflections on herself and her work through her blogs and ‘letters’ to her sage, Elizabeth Arden.
In my introduction I noted the lack of contrivance in linking features of Elizabeth Arden’s experiences with those of the writer. Perhaps this is a simple observation. However, reading a book that achieves this is a real pleasure. So many writers do not have the capacity to use this device effectively. Louise Claire Johnson is a talented writer who has woven the stories of two incredible women, the politics of business and feminism, the draw of family, love and awakening to her real ambitions for her life into a book that is a pure joy to read.