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Slow Trains Around Spain: A 3,000-Mile Adventure on 52 Rides
Between soaring mountains, across arid deserts, parched plains and valleys of fruit orchards and olive groves, down glittering coastlines and along viaducts towering above plunging ravines… there is no better way to see Spain than by train. Tom Chesshyre hits the tracks to take in the country through carriage windows on a series of clattering rides beyond the popular image of “holiday Spain” (although he stops by in Benidorm and Torremolinos too). From hidden spots in Catalonia, through the plains of Aragon and across the north coast to Santiago de Compostela, Chesshyre continues his journey via Madrid, the wilds of Extremadura, dusty mining towns, the cathedrals and palaces of Valencia and Granada, and finally to Seville, Andalusia’s beguiling (and hot) capital. Encounters? Plenty. Mishaps? A lot. Happy Spanish days? All the way.
423 pages, Kindle Edition
Published April 8, 2021
52 people are currently reading
225 people want to read
About the author
Tom Chesshyre
19 books36 followersTom Chesshyre has been writing travel stories for UK national newspapers for over15 years. After reading politics at Bristol University and completing a journalism diploma from City University, he had stints at the Cambridge Evening News, Sporting Life and Sky Sports. During this period he won the Independent's young sports writer of the year competition and was runner-up in the Financial Times young business writer awards. His first travel piece was about England's cricket fans in Barbados for the Daily Telegraph. He freelanced for the Daily and Sunday Telegraphs, wrote a column for Conde Nast Traveller, and contributed to the Express, the Guardian, and the Independent, before working on the travel desk of the Times. He has assisted with the research on two books - W. G. by Robert Low, a biography of W. G. Grace, and Carlos: Portrait of a Terrorist by Colin Smith, a biography of "Carlos the Jackal". He has written magazine pieces for Wanderlust, Geographical and Business Traveller - and contributes book reviews to the TLS. His travel writing has taken him to more than 75 countries. He lives in south-west London and was born in 1971.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 34 reviews
October 22, 2021
Commuting by train is no fun, I did it for a little while before a friend got a car and then we could get where we wanted and when. I always regret never taking the time when younger to go interrailing, sadly circumstances never allowed me the time to do that. Until recently it is something that had never crossed my mind to do, but reading this book has made me think that it could still be possible.
Slow Trains Around Spain is a fairly self-explanatory title, and in this book, Tom Chesshyre wants to discover a Spain that most people never come across when they visit that country. But first, he has to get there, and rather than fly, he arrives at St Pancras to catch the Eurostar to Gard du Nord in Paris. He crosses Paris to catch the sleeper to Spain. It is an uneventful journey and he first glimpses the country after emerging from a long tunnel in the town of Figueres. There is sort of a plan, he wants to travel around the country taking the slowest trains possible between the provincial towns of Spain is a lazy and badly drawn S.
The sense of Spain being in some way cut off and removed is quite strong here. Yes, Spain is part of mainland Europe, but it feels quite apart too. You get that straight away after crossing the Pyrenees.
Each of the chapters takes us with him on the route that he followed around the country and this book is as much of a cultural tour as it is a geographic one. There are hundreds of mini-stories and vignettes in here about the people that he meets either on the train journeys or who he talks to in the places he stops at. Woven into this modern-day narrative are the histories of the places, from the tragedies of the country under Franco to the structures built by the Romans that are still standing 2000 years later and the Moorish influence that still resonates in the architecture of Southern Spain.
Spain by train seems to reward the lazy traveller – the more ad hoc you make it, the more you lose your way, the more the country unravels before you, revealing itself.
I thought that this was a wonderful book to read. He has a wonderful way with words and it goes to prove that you don’t need to travel to extreme places to have a wonderful journey and make memories. One gauge of a good travel book is, does it make me want to recreate a similar journey and discover that part of the world for myself and the answer, in this case, is yes. Very much worth reading. 4.5 stars
Slow Trains Around Spain is a fairly self-explanatory title, and in this book, Tom Chesshyre wants to discover a Spain that most people never come across when they visit that country. But first, he has to get there, and rather than fly, he arrives at St Pancras to catch the Eurostar to Gard du Nord in Paris. He crosses Paris to catch the sleeper to Spain. It is an uneventful journey and he first glimpses the country after emerging from a long tunnel in the town of Figueres. There is sort of a plan, he wants to travel around the country taking the slowest trains possible between the provincial towns of Spain is a lazy and badly drawn S.
The sense of Spain being in some way cut off and removed is quite strong here. Yes, Spain is part of mainland Europe, but it feels quite apart too. You get that straight away after crossing the Pyrenees.
Each of the chapters takes us with him on the route that he followed around the country and this book is as much of a cultural tour as it is a geographic one. There are hundreds of mini-stories and vignettes in here about the people that he meets either on the train journeys or who he talks to in the places he stops at. Woven into this modern-day narrative are the histories of the places, from the tragedies of the country under Franco to the structures built by the Romans that are still standing 2000 years later and the Moorish influence that still resonates in the architecture of Southern Spain.
Spain by train seems to reward the lazy traveller – the more ad hoc you make it, the more you lose your way, the more the country unravels before you, revealing itself.
I thought that this was a wonderful book to read. He has a wonderful way with words and it goes to prove that you don’t need to travel to extreme places to have a wonderful journey and make memories. One gauge of a good travel book is, does it make me want to recreate a similar journey and discover that part of the world for myself and the answer, in this case, is yes. Very much worth reading. 4.5 stars
December 6, 2023
I think I have just read my first ever Tapas travel book…jump on a train, when it stops get off and have a quick taste of what the place has to offer before jumping back on the train to see what this smorgasbord of a country has to offer. Chesshyre is travelling around Spain taking the slowest trains possible and visiting places rarely on the tourist route, what he finds is a beautiful country full of friendly people, great food, art, history and fondness for trains….weather was quite warm too.
This is a very easy book to read, Chesshyre has a very British sense of humour which really comes out when recounting conversations with random strangers, he has an ability to get people talking and that adds an extra level to a travelogue. The research on art, Spanish history and the railway is impeccable, he takes very good notes off info boards in the museum, haha. I really liked the idea of turning up at a town with very little knowledge and letting the place and people show you what there is on offer, you will find out things that a well organised person may well miss. As the journey progresses you can see Chesshyre gradually falling in love with Spain, even though he was fed snails, and the slower the train the more the love shows.
I have one issue with Chesshyre’s writing…it’s too damn inspirational, when I read From Source to Sea all I could think of was walking along the Thames, now I want to jump on a train and go exploring Spain, luckily saving me from this expensive trip are the other books by Chesshyre I have yet to read, them first and then I’ll leave the house.
A fantastic book by one of the best modern day travel writers, highly recommended reading.
Blog review: https://felcherman.wordpress.com/2023...
This is a very easy book to read, Chesshyre has a very British sense of humour which really comes out when recounting conversations with random strangers, he has an ability to get people talking and that adds an extra level to a travelogue. The research on art, Spanish history and the railway is impeccable, he takes very good notes off info boards in the museum, haha. I really liked the idea of turning up at a town with very little knowledge and letting the place and people show you what there is on offer, you will find out things that a well organised person may well miss. As the journey progresses you can see Chesshyre gradually falling in love with Spain, even though he was fed snails, and the slower the train the more the love shows.
I have one issue with Chesshyre’s writing…it’s too damn inspirational, when I read From Source to Sea all I could think of was walking along the Thames, now I want to jump on a train and go exploring Spain, luckily saving me from this expensive trip are the other books by Chesshyre I have yet to read, them first and then I’ll leave the house.
A fantastic book by one of the best modern day travel writers, highly recommended reading.
Blog review: https://felcherman.wordpress.com/2023...
August 17, 2024
When I first went to Spain as a child, all its trains were slow. It was the Franco era, a poor country denied freedom. Since his demise Spain has changed out of all recognition, including its railways.
The high speed Ave ( Spanish for ‘bird’) speeds you all over the country, from Madrid to Seville in just over a couple of hours, for example. I experienced that going from Seville to Cordoba. It’s like a plane only much better - no long check ins, no endless security lines, and much more comfortable and relaxing than flying. Save for China, Spain now has the world’s largest high speed network, quite an achievement.
The author, however, eschews speed for experience, travelling all over Spain in the old slow trains and taking his time to immerse himself in this unique nation.
As he notes, Spain for long was isolated from the rest of Europe, cut off by the Pyrenees. Spain has a vibrant and individual culture heavily influenced by the time it was Al-Andalus ruled by the Moors from North Africa. This has left behind amazing architecture, and hundreds of Arabic words became part of the Spanish language in a recognizable form.
If trains or Spain interest you, you’ll like this book and want to go see Spain for yourself as soon as you can. My interest was more Spain than trains, so some of the train detail was a bit much for me but I still enjoyed the book.
Inevitably, there were places he didn’t visit that I would have liked to have seen included, and with some destinations he barely scratched the surface, arriving in the evening and leaving early next morning. And Seville, one of Spain’s greatest cities and his last stop, gets only a few lines. So despite the book being about travelling slowly, some parts felt rushed!
The high speed Ave ( Spanish for ‘bird’) speeds you all over the country, from Madrid to Seville in just over a couple of hours, for example. I experienced that going from Seville to Cordoba. It’s like a plane only much better - no long check ins, no endless security lines, and much more comfortable and relaxing than flying. Save for China, Spain now has the world’s largest high speed network, quite an achievement.
The author, however, eschews speed for experience, travelling all over Spain in the old slow trains and taking his time to immerse himself in this unique nation.
As he notes, Spain for long was isolated from the rest of Europe, cut off by the Pyrenees. Spain has a vibrant and individual culture heavily influenced by the time it was Al-Andalus ruled by the Moors from North Africa. This has left behind amazing architecture, and hundreds of Arabic words became part of the Spanish language in a recognizable form.
If trains or Spain interest you, you’ll like this book and want to go see Spain for yourself as soon as you can. My interest was more Spain than trains, so some of the train detail was a bit much for me but I still enjoyed the book.
Inevitably, there were places he didn’t visit that I would have liked to have seen included, and with some destinations he barely scratched the surface, arriving in the evening and leaving early next morning. And Seville, one of Spain’s greatest cities and his last stop, gets only a few lines. So despite the book being about travelling slowly, some parts felt rushed!
July 1, 2022
I've been leisurely making my way through this since I got it. Heard about it on the When In Spain podcast. It was very helpful to get my mind off the pandemic and dream about travel again. I hope to take some of the author's routes someday.
December 22, 2022
This is a book to which I am giving 5 stars based purely on my own entirely personal enjoyment of it, not because it is a literary masterpiece or because I recommend that everyone should read it. Mind you, if you are planning, or even have perhaps recently returned from a trip to Spain then yes, I do recommend that you read it . . . even if you are not intending to use trains as a means of travel.
The personal appeal for me is in the fact that I bought it and read the relevant sections just before I took a trip to the north of Spain, plus Barcelona and Madrid (some by train, some on Alsa buses) I then reread those sections and all the rest of the book, which referred also to places I'd been on previous trips, and loved it even more post travel.
Tom Chesshyre's writing is a little like that of Bill Bryson but without Bryson's sometimes rather intense sarcasm and what might be called his very well decided opinions! (Mind you, I do enjoy his writing also.) What both have in commen, is the ability to step back and see the detail of a place and report on it honestly without any polishing and with humour.
I will definitely be seeking out other books by Tom Chesshyre. I nearly always enjoy armchair travel, especially when enhanced by the real thing!!! *****
The personal appeal for me is in the fact that I bought it and read the relevant sections just before I took a trip to the north of Spain, plus Barcelona and Madrid (some by train, some on Alsa buses) I then reread those sections and all the rest of the book, which referred also to places I'd been on previous trips, and loved it even more post travel.
Tom Chesshyre's writing is a little like that of Bill Bryson but without Bryson's sometimes rather intense sarcasm and what might be called his very well decided opinions! (Mind you, I do enjoy his writing also.) What both have in commen, is the ability to step back and see the detail of a place and report on it honestly without any polishing and with humour.
I will definitely be seeking out other books by Tom Chesshyre. I nearly always enjoy armchair travel, especially when enhanced by the real thing!!! *****
August 25, 2024
A delight from start to finish - vignettes of Spanish towns and cities and most importantly the trains linking them and the people met “en ruta”.
Perfectly encapsulates what is so intriguing about Spain even as a major tourist centre. Plus lots of mouthwatering tapas descriptions!
Perfectly encapsulates what is so intriguing about Spain even as a major tourist centre. Plus lots of mouthwatering tapas descriptions!
June 12, 2023
"Slow Trains Around Spain: A 3,000-Mile Adventure on 52 Rides" by Tom Chesshyre is an absolute gem for travel enthusiasts and lovers of Spain. This delightful book takes readers on a captivating journey through the heart of the country, offering a unique perspective that goes beyond the tourist hotspots.
Chesshyre's writing style is enchanting and immersive, vividly capturing the essence of each destination and train ride. His descriptive prose beautifully transports readers to the awe-inspiring landscapes, charming towns, and bustling cities of Spain. With an eye for detail and a genuine passion for the country, Chesshyre delves deep into the culture, history, and local traditions, painting a rich tapestry of Spanish life.
What sets this book apart from others that I have read is Chesshyre's dedication to slow travel. He encourages readers to embrace the unhurried pace of train journeys, allowing for a more intimate and meaningful connection with the places he visits. The author's enthusiasm and curiosity are infectious, making you feel like you're right there beside him, eagerly exploring the hidden corners and experiencing the true essence of Spain.
'Slow Trains Around Spain' is not just a travelogue but a personal and heartfelt account of Chesshyre's adventures and encounters. It's a book that sparks a sense of wanderlust and inspires readers to embark on their own slow journeys of discovery. Chesshyre's passion, descriptive prowess, and commitment to slow travel create an unforgettable reading experience that will leave you longing to embark on your own Spanish escapade.
Needless to say, I'm already looking forward to the next book written by Chesshyre that I'll have the pleasure of enjoying.
Chesshyre's writing style is enchanting and immersive, vividly capturing the essence of each destination and train ride. His descriptive prose beautifully transports readers to the awe-inspiring landscapes, charming towns, and bustling cities of Spain. With an eye for detail and a genuine passion for the country, Chesshyre delves deep into the culture, history, and local traditions, painting a rich tapestry of Spanish life.
What sets this book apart from others that I have read is Chesshyre's dedication to slow travel. He encourages readers to embrace the unhurried pace of train journeys, allowing for a more intimate and meaningful connection with the places he visits. The author's enthusiasm and curiosity are infectious, making you feel like you're right there beside him, eagerly exploring the hidden corners and experiencing the true essence of Spain.
'Slow Trains Around Spain' is not just a travelogue but a personal and heartfelt account of Chesshyre's adventures and encounters. It's a book that sparks a sense of wanderlust and inspires readers to embark on their own slow journeys of discovery. Chesshyre's passion, descriptive prowess, and commitment to slow travel create an unforgettable reading experience that will leave you longing to embark on your own Spanish escapade.
Needless to say, I'm already looking forward to the next book written by Chesshyre that I'll have the pleasure of enjoying.
April 23, 2023
Tom Chesshyre has followed a type of travel that I enjoy with one caveat, staying only one night at his various stopovers. Like slow food, slow trains make you savor the landscape and help adapt you to where you are. The prose reads along easily like a trip to a mountain lake. I enjoyed this book and having taken a few of the trains he traveled by, would recommend this book to anyone who wants to travel Spain beyond the top tourist spots or for those who love traveling by train.
September 15, 2025
'From the cramped confines of the London Tube to a comfortable seat with a soul-lifting view: this is why I bought my ticket south.'
'Slow down and see whatever happens to be next along the line. There is no right way. There is no chance you can see and understand it all... make the best of things. This is what it's all about for the Spanish train traveller. The joy of the unexpected; taking things in your stride.'
This book felt more weighted towards train enthusiasts than Spain enthusiasts.
There were some fun train anecdotes; some were more entertaining than others. For example, I now know the pre-recorded announcement in English on the Renfe service from Zaragoza to Huesca was recorded by an announcer with a Birmingham accent 'and "luggage" comes across strongly as "luug-idge"'. And when a line ahead is blocked, the author travels from Llanes to Infiesto by a taxi, FUNDED BY RENFE FEVE! And the author is able to buy a ticket online from Xàtvia to Alicante at a third of the price that he's quoted at the ticket booth in the station.
But on the flip side, I don't think my life is any richer for knowing the seats on Renfe's AVE trains from Leida to Zaragoza have a speckled lilac pattern... But each to their own!
The author's love of trains also guided where he visited. Sometimes I found this interesting, such as the walks near Montserrat monastery that he accessed via the funicular railway. Sometimes less so, such as staying in a more obscure town purely to visit the local train museum. He doesn't always stay more than a few hours in towns along the way either, always looking ahead to the next train. Although I love his approach of enjoying the journey and not getting hung up on trying to do it all, I was willing him to stay longer in some locations and to tell us about them. That said, in the author's own words: 'This was never intended to be the complete story of Spain... This is just a story; one travel story told from the tracks.'
I collected the places the author spoke well of, or that were recommended to him. Some are new to me, others familiar: Blanes, Sitges, Montserrat, Albarracín, Zaragoza, Cáceres, Picos de Europa, Oviedo, Santiago de Compostela, Puebla de Sanabria, Zamora, Segovia, Córdoba, Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda (Alameda del Tajo park and the Puente Nuevo), Madrid (Mercado de San Miguel), Cuenca, Valencia (tapas in Barrio del Carmen, the urban park in a former riverbed, Mercado Central), Granada. I also took note of a few train journeys the author especially loved: Oviedo to Ferrol, Cuenca to Valencia.
***
This idea came up in The Great Believers by Rebecca Makkai; what riches might we be missing from those who've died before their time:
'It was a lucky escape. A centimetre's difference and the bullet might well have struck [Orwell's] carotid artery and he would indeed have been "done for"; no Nineteen Eighty-Four or Animal Farm among so much else.'
And I loved this quote from Picasso (and learning about his full name):
'"A picture is not thought out and settled beforehand. While it is being done it changes as one's thoughts change. And when it is finished, it still goes on changing, according to the state of mind of whoever is looking at it."'
'Slow down and see whatever happens to be next along the line. There is no right way. There is no chance you can see and understand it all... make the best of things. This is what it's all about for the Spanish train traveller. The joy of the unexpected; taking things in your stride.'
This book felt more weighted towards train enthusiasts than Spain enthusiasts.
There were some fun train anecdotes; some were more entertaining than others. For example, I now know the pre-recorded announcement in English on the Renfe service from Zaragoza to Huesca was recorded by an announcer with a Birmingham accent 'and "luggage" comes across strongly as "luug-idge"'. And when a line ahead is blocked, the author travels from Llanes to Infiesto by a taxi, FUNDED BY RENFE FEVE! And the author is able to buy a ticket online from Xàtvia to Alicante at a third of the price that he's quoted at the ticket booth in the station.
But on the flip side, I don't think my life is any richer for knowing the seats on Renfe's AVE trains from Leida to Zaragoza have a speckled lilac pattern... But each to their own!
The author's love of trains also guided where he visited. Sometimes I found this interesting, such as the walks near Montserrat monastery that he accessed via the funicular railway. Sometimes less so, such as staying in a more obscure town purely to visit the local train museum. He doesn't always stay more than a few hours in towns along the way either, always looking ahead to the next train. Although I love his approach of enjoying the journey and not getting hung up on trying to do it all, I was willing him to stay longer in some locations and to tell us about them. That said, in the author's own words: 'This was never intended to be the complete story of Spain... This is just a story; one travel story told from the tracks.'
I collected the places the author spoke well of, or that were recommended to him. Some are new to me, others familiar: Blanes, Sitges, Montserrat, Albarracín, Zaragoza, Cáceres, Picos de Europa, Oviedo, Santiago de Compostela, Puebla de Sanabria, Zamora, Segovia, Córdoba, Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda (Alameda del Tajo park and the Puente Nuevo), Madrid (Mercado de San Miguel), Cuenca, Valencia (tapas in Barrio del Carmen, the urban park in a former riverbed, Mercado Central), Granada. I also took note of a few train journeys the author especially loved: Oviedo to Ferrol, Cuenca to Valencia.
***
This idea came up in The Great Believers by Rebecca Makkai; what riches might we be missing from those who've died before their time:
'It was a lucky escape. A centimetre's difference and the bullet might well have struck [Orwell's] carotid artery and he would indeed have been "done for"; no Nineteen Eighty-Four or Animal Farm among so much else.'
And I loved this quote from Picasso (and learning about his full name):
'"A picture is not thought out and settled beforehand. While it is being done it changes as one's thoughts change. And when it is finished, it still goes on changing, according to the state of mind of whoever is looking at it."'
January 16, 2024
This was a great Secret Santa present at work! I've never been to Spain and so I was relying on this book to introduce the country (and its trains!) to me. Safe to say I do want to go at some point! It's the sort of travel writing I want to read – focusing more on the trains than the destinations, overall, but nonetheless selling various places quite well.
April 6, 2025
We love trains 🚂
May 2, 2024
I read this because I was interested in doing a similar trip. Its agreeable and an entertaining read but the authors style is slightly cloying after a while with everyone he meets being so exceptionally nice.
May 23, 2024
I love train travel, and have a wee train journey of my own coming up. After reading this book, I think I'll put some train travel in Spain in my life - I've done a little, twice, all on the West coast. Once was just a Bilbao to France trip, the other was Oslo to Porto. One thing I would do differently is that I would arrive in Spain with an idea of where the trains run and do a bit of advance checking of timetables. The way Tom tells the tale, he wakes up each day, wanders to the train station, consults the universally marvelous staff and decides what to do. He also puts a lot of pressure on himself to keep moving, seeing what he can between trains - it seems a little inconsistent with slow travel - he doesn't even stop in San Sebastian, apart from to change stations. He refers to a guide book and several books by previous travelers in Spain, so it's possibly not quite as play it by ear as he makes out.
The early part of the journey - from England to Spain - doesn't seem to interest him very much, but his prose warms up when he crosses the border at Figueres. He heads west, then south, then east and finally south-west. I don't know if he travels every slow train there is in Spain, but it must be close. There are a few times he can only travel by fast train - he quite likes the experience - and on others he has to have recourse to a bus. He doesn't seem to mind a few bus replacement services, even a taxi substitution or two when the Renfe trains break down. On the small lines, this happens a lot. On the very small lines, it might just be that the drivers are in the cafe, haven't finished their card game. One train has a mysterious break down in a tunnel - driver needed a smoke! But there's one bus he has to catch, because there are no tracks or trains, and hates it.
A lot of the things he does are the things I'd do - he visits three railway museums, art galleries, museums, churches (there's a delightful scene of him sipping gin and tonics with the nuns), pintxos or tapas bars... No miermerienda for me, thanks all the same. In the Museu del Ferrocarril de Catalunya, he learns that the first Spanish train wasn't actually in Spain - Spain ran the first Cuban railroad. When railway lines were built in Spain, they used a different gauge from that in France, to prevent invasion.
Heading south, he encounters fields the "colour of golden retrievers", which to me suggests movement, not just a shade. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to walk the trenches Orwell nearly died in near Huesca. Wherever he goes, he finds the people talkative and helpful. At one point, he has a long chat about Ulysses with a ticket seller, commenting that you wouldn't find such a thing back home, but without revealing whether he has read this marvelous work himself. I'm fairly confident that he's a bit of a talker himself - he engages with an awful lot of people, so much so that on some days he has lists of the conversations he has had.
In San Sebastian, he asks for guidance - "should I stay or should I go?". The answer is not helpful - "you might stay to live here", but it was a stupid question - of course he should have stayed. It's a wonderful place. He didn't, caught the next train south. But then he was captivated by the Abando-Bilbao railway station - a cathedral of trains. Most of the stations do seem to be impressive, and almost always have an at least decent cafe.
Tom has a great eye for the countryside - there are lots of wonderful descriptions of what he sees as he traverses the country - and an obvious love for trains. These things, combined with the other things I've mentioned, make this a fabulous book.
The early part of the journey - from England to Spain - doesn't seem to interest him very much, but his prose warms up when he crosses the border at Figueres. He heads west, then south, then east and finally south-west. I don't know if he travels every slow train there is in Spain, but it must be close. There are a few times he can only travel by fast train - he quite likes the experience - and on others he has to have recourse to a bus. He doesn't seem to mind a few bus replacement services, even a taxi substitution or two when the Renfe trains break down. On the small lines, this happens a lot. On the very small lines, it might just be that the drivers are in the cafe, haven't finished their card game. One train has a mysterious break down in a tunnel - driver needed a smoke! But there's one bus he has to catch, because there are no tracks or trains, and hates it.
A lot of the things he does are the things I'd do - he visits three railway museums, art galleries, museums, churches (there's a delightful scene of him sipping gin and tonics with the nuns), pintxos or tapas bars... No miermerienda for me, thanks all the same. In the Museu del Ferrocarril de Catalunya, he learns that the first Spanish train wasn't actually in Spain - Spain ran the first Cuban railroad. When railway lines were built in Spain, they used a different gauge from that in France, to prevent invasion.
Heading south, he encounters fields the "colour of golden retrievers", which to me suggests movement, not just a shade. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to walk the trenches Orwell nearly died in near Huesca. Wherever he goes, he finds the people talkative and helpful. At one point, he has a long chat about Ulysses with a ticket seller, commenting that you wouldn't find such a thing back home, but without revealing whether he has read this marvelous work himself. I'm fairly confident that he's a bit of a talker himself - he engages with an awful lot of people, so much so that on some days he has lists of the conversations he has had.
In San Sebastian, he asks for guidance - "should I stay or should I go?". The answer is not helpful - "you might stay to live here", but it was a stupid question - of course he should have stayed. It's a wonderful place. He didn't, caught the next train south. But then he was captivated by the Abando-Bilbao railway station - a cathedral of trains. Most of the stations do seem to be impressive, and almost always have an at least decent cafe.
Tom has a great eye for the countryside - there are lots of wonderful descriptions of what he sees as he traverses the country - and an obvious love for trains. These things, combined with the other things I've mentioned, make this a fabulous book.
July 20, 2022
Whether you have visited some, all or none of the places mentioned in this book it is a great read and wets the appetite to replicate the journey.
While the trains may be slow, the pace of Tom Chesshyre’s writing keeps you turning pages at a fair pace. You are very much on the journey with him and the pictures painted in the head are far better than those included in the obligatory photo centre piece. This is not just a tale of towns and cities and the various monuments they contain, but a full blown vacation where a whole host of fellow travellers joint us for parts of the journey.
I wish he hadn’t spent so much time in Café’s and bars – or at least I wish he hadn’t told us about them all. A various stages I felt compelled to go and get a beer because Tom was enjoying his beer too much.
This has certainly whetted my appetite to visit some of the smaller or less well know places featured in the book.
The only disappointment for me was that the book ends as Tom is making his Journey from Malaga to Seville. The absolute jewels in the Spanish crown of Seville and Cordoba don’t really feature at all – what a missed opportunity.
While the trains may be slow, the pace of Tom Chesshyre’s writing keeps you turning pages at a fair pace. You are very much on the journey with him and the pictures painted in the head are far better than those included in the obligatory photo centre piece. This is not just a tale of towns and cities and the various monuments they contain, but a full blown vacation where a whole host of fellow travellers joint us for parts of the journey.
I wish he hadn’t spent so much time in Café’s and bars – or at least I wish he hadn’t told us about them all. A various stages I felt compelled to go and get a beer because Tom was enjoying his beer too much.
This has certainly whetted my appetite to visit some of the smaller or less well know places featured in the book.
The only disappointment for me was that the book ends as Tom is making his Journey from Malaga to Seville. The absolute jewels in the Spanish crown of Seville and Cordoba don’t really feature at all – what a missed opportunity.
April 13, 2024
Please do not think this is a book for 'anoraks' interested in the detailed workings of train engines because it is not. What it is is an enjoyable, informative entertaining book describing in just the right level of detail the author's extensive journey around Spain primarily using local 'slow' train services as against Spain's modern high-speed rail services.
His point is to take your time, enjoy seeing plenty of interesting sights and meet a variety of everyday local characters which all add to a pleasant exploration of Spain's varied and historical villages towns and cities. He encounters some surprises both good and a few bad which paints an enticing picture of the real Spain. Which, contrary to popular opinion, is not all beaches and golf courses.
I thoroughly enjoyed his adventures and even though I have lived in Spain for a long time I learnt some new facts and it has motivated me to plan a rail journey of my own. What more could you ask?
His point is to take your time, enjoy seeing plenty of interesting sights and meet a variety of everyday local characters which all add to a pleasant exploration of Spain's varied and historical villages towns and cities. He encounters some surprises both good and a few bad which paints an enticing picture of the real Spain. Which, contrary to popular opinion, is not all beaches and golf courses.
I thoroughly enjoyed his adventures and even though I have lived in Spain for a long time I learnt some new facts and it has motivated me to plan a rail journey of my own. What more could you ask?
October 11, 2024
It was an entertaining book, very easy to read and good for some routes and recommendations.
I saw a new part of Spain exploring areas along Tom where I have never been. I liked the maps of each chapter for a clear view of the reader.
Reading this book makes me want to take some trains in Spain in a different way enjoying each ride.
I need to say though that based on my experience being from Catalonia the punctuality of those trains left me in awe. Usually there are delays or random cancellations without any previous notice or communication.
If you are planning to go to Spain and take some trains instead of renting a car, I would recommend the book to explore some interesting options.
I saw a new part of Spain exploring areas along Tom where I have never been. I liked the maps of each chapter for a clear view of the reader.
Reading this book makes me want to take some trains in Spain in a different way enjoying each ride.
I need to say though that based on my experience being from Catalonia the punctuality of those trains left me in awe. Usually there are delays or random cancellations without any previous notice or communication.
If you are planning to go to Spain and take some trains instead of renting a car, I would recommend the book to explore some interesting options.
August 2, 2022
This is an interesting account of the author's journey around Spain using slow trains (whenever possible) and the occasional fast train or bus when necessary. The book is slightly odd in that it has the review quotes for this book and other books by the same author at the start so there is a fair amount of pre-amble to step through to get to the actual start. There is a worthwhile note however that this journey was carried out in the summer before Covid-19 so some things may have changed since then.
The book starts in London, and as is the style through out the book, the author, briefly mentions a couple of passengers encountered there, both of which seem fairly negative experiences. Whilst I have occasionally experienced these sorts of things travelling in London, I would not think that they are that common and it almost seems that these are hear to contrast later encounters. The basic maps at the start of each chapter are useful. I like the fact that the author talks about trains travel as a more environmentally friendly way of travel. The main focus of this book is that the author chooses to travel on slow trains rather than high speed trains and as one consequence visits places that might otherwise have been missed and also gets a very different travelling experience. I found it interesting to hear the type of accommodation stayed in and experiences with ticket collectors, food etc but mainly it was accounts of places visited that I found most interesting and there are several which I would now like to visit myself. The author meets some interesting people along the way but the encounters tend to be brief and there is little depth to these encounters. The author's interest in literature, art and trains comes across very strongly as he visits literary locations (related to Don Quixote, Hemingway, Laurie Lee etc) exhibitions by Dali, Picasso and Goya, and too many rail related exhibits to remember. There are mentions of separatist movements in Spain, but no real conclusions and I did no really learn much about that subject. All in all the book ambles along pretty much like the authors train journey. There are no great dramas or insights, not much in the way of humorous incidents or observations, but still an interesting account of an interesting journey that made me keen to visit some of these places.
The book starts in London, and as is the style through out the book, the author, briefly mentions a couple of passengers encountered there, both of which seem fairly negative experiences. Whilst I have occasionally experienced these sorts of things travelling in London, I would not think that they are that common and it almost seems that these are hear to contrast later encounters. The basic maps at the start of each chapter are useful. I like the fact that the author talks about trains travel as a more environmentally friendly way of travel. The main focus of this book is that the author chooses to travel on slow trains rather than high speed trains and as one consequence visits places that might otherwise have been missed and also gets a very different travelling experience. I found it interesting to hear the type of accommodation stayed in and experiences with ticket collectors, food etc but mainly it was accounts of places visited that I found most interesting and there are several which I would now like to visit myself. The author meets some interesting people along the way but the encounters tend to be brief and there is little depth to these encounters. The author's interest in literature, art and trains comes across very strongly as he visits literary locations (related to Don Quixote, Hemingway, Laurie Lee etc) exhibitions by Dali, Picasso and Goya, and too many rail related exhibits to remember. There are mentions of separatist movements in Spain, but no real conclusions and I did no really learn much about that subject. All in all the book ambles along pretty much like the authors train journey. There are no great dramas or insights, not much in the way of humorous incidents or observations, but still an interesting account of an interesting journey that made me keen to visit some of these places.
May 8, 2023
This warm, laid-back account of the writer's trip in Spain gives a nice balance of historical detail, trivia, and description. He includes a good amount of thoughts from people he met during the trip - although for my liking too many fairly dull comments from other tourists, when more local voices would have been more illuminating.
Overall a very good read and an encouragement towards a slower, more improvised and eyes-open sort of holidaying.
Overall a very good read and an encouragement towards a slower, more improvised and eyes-open sort of holidaying.
April 17, 2022
Enjoyed this gentle book. Researched and written just before the he start of the pandemic, it captures the feeling of slow travel and Spain from that time. V handy for shaping my own journey there. Although the world is a different place now, I’m hoping to be similarly beguiled by the sights, sounds of Spanish train travel myself.
November 18, 2021
A book about an amiable and enjoyable pre Covid trip around Spain on mainly slow trains is, in itself, an amiable and enjoyable read.
Different places and an experience described in a very nice writing style. Recommended.
Different places and an experience described in a very nice writing style. Recommended.
April 23, 2023
Just some lighthearted fun really. If anything I should rate it higher - some of the dialogue with other travellers, or staff in railway stations, did make me really laugh.
Harmless - or, maybe as per the Hitchiker's Guide, mostly harmless.
Harmless - or, maybe as per the Hitchiker's Guide, mostly harmless.
July 13, 2021
A brilliant book. I've been to Spain the author is writing about, the fleeting image slightly hidden behind the tourists and the industry (nothing against those though). Chesshyre gets it well.
July 10, 2022
More about the journeys than the places but, like all the best travel books, makes you want to follow in their footsteps!
December 12, 2022
Looking forward to now reading Slow trains to Venice.
April 6, 2023
Enjoyable whistle-stop tour around Spain. Easy reading.
January 28, 2024
inspiring!
February 20, 2024
Was hoping for descriptions of the places visited but sadly this book didn't really do that so decided to abandon it.
May 19, 2024
Great book! Very inspiring, with lots of good tips and ideas for train travel in Spain.
I’ve just booked Northern Spain off the back of this book, can’t wait!
I’ve just booked Northern Spain off the back of this book, can’t wait!
July 7, 2024
Excellent guide to both the Spanish railway system and elements of the different Spanish cultures. Humorous, well written and clearly a hispanophile.
Read
October 8, 2024Ch70 P17
We shall never be overruled!
We shall never be overruled!
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